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First of all hope everyone is safe, and condolence to anyone who has had losses. Hope it doesn't get any worse any of the communities in the path of this distruction. It's amazing how strong mother nature can be. The pollies need to stop filling there pockets and start doing there jobs as well all the money they have given to other countries in need, wonder if the favors get returned. Been on water restrictions for so long up here, even while dam was at 80% having to pay excessive water rates and all and where was all that money going to? Got this stupid ugly decelenation plant down the coast that's now redundant. I grew up in Marsden shortly after 74 floods and heard so many rumours of how high the flood water was there, quite a few times we had minor flooding where the park 100m from home would be completely under and water up to our letterbox. The council had done entry of work to stop flooding there, I went for a drive last night to see how it was faring and the park is not even under as well scrubby creek bridge on Kingston road used to go under and it wasn't even near it as yet, mine you there was a lot of water around. Ihad been wondering about the dam from the first news report saying it was over 100% , #?!?* does not not mean it's over full, I mentioned it once and should not have to my wife and now she has been in tears since, hence the drive last night to check out the known flood areas in my locality. I ve carmed her down now telling her that we are safe as it's not to be worried about as Marsden is still doing ok and we are at Boronia Heights which I'm sure is higher than marsden. I don't know what effect the flooding of the Brisbane river would have on us southside residence, what I do know is we have also suffered at times when Brisbane ubd has in the past. Even still if that dam goes I wonder how far it will engulf Brisbane, all I can say is hope everyone can get to a safe place and it does not come to the dam failing. Be safe remember everything can be replaced except lives.

AWD could you imagine a tuned Coyote in GTHO form over 400rwkw awd yeha. Maybe even more if they stretch displacement to 5.8l. Best just waiting to see what happens, rather start worrying now. One thing for sure I will never buy a front wheel drive car again after my old tx5 turbo. And would never buy a gm product, they can't even make a petrol flap that doesn't fall off. Do options would be to look for a good awd package. Very sad if it's not a ford as I have been a long time supporter of the falcon product.

Go with TO4z & 3.5 system if you want very good response as well huge power. If you want to push for maximum power and don't mine suffering low down spool up then go bigger. My set up was very impressive until factory rod failed. It would start boosting from as low as 1100 rpm 6th gear 60-80k, set boost of 12psi before 2400rpm. Fuel Eco highway 8.8l per 100k. When first fitted TO4z I stupidly hooked up both vac & pressure on Progate 50 gate so gate wasn't working, it instantly redline 1-3 gears with opposite lock having to get off throttle each time. Also 90k 3rd gear wot no clutch same again. This is with Toyo 265x30x19 proxy 4's. Run at strip once with 12psi 2/3 tank of fuel and still suffered fuel surge 3rd gear. Being manual and on street rubber very hard go get off line I posted 2.4sec 60ft with it fuel surging in 3rd got off it, slotted 4th slowly fed back into it for 12.902 at 116mph. Also friends huge powered F6 with GT45 struggled to keep up with it mainly due to it's poor spool until 3500rpm and from there his struggle with traction. Over 200rwhp more power than mine but just not as applicable as street performance as my setup. As street performance setup I think it is pretty untouchable bfyb

Tab Was not directing anything towards one perticular person, I said you would have to be a idiot if you think the i6 is a better engine as it is. Can anyone prove it is not, if they can then I'm the idiot and I would be be accepting of it. Yes defiantly not interested in being a mod and understandable from what I see on here.

Hideous (not singling you out but just replying) Yes watched some and yes his a bit of a character as yes not a real good tv personality. But I still don't have to bad mouth him. There will be some that can't stand him and some that like him but really is there really any reason to bad a person you don't know personally. Say someone didn't like you and they went on a public forum and stated you as being something negative how would you feel. I have my opinions of a lot of people but I don't feel it makes me any better to name call them, I feel in doing so really only would make myself look the fool. Eg I don't like Peter Brock but I'm not going to bad mouth him as it's not right to do so and I would probably cop a bashing from most as well. I have my reasons that will not become public, and no I can't face him as he is rip. Yob Pom Being taught that does not mean to be a coward, just means to be polite not rude. I dont really care if you want to comment on something but is it really nessisary to bad mouth another. If you have some sort of problem with another go face them and discuss it, don't go name calling behind there backs that's cowardness. I worded the better driver wrongly should have worded as better person. Anyway prob should not have worried about expressing my thoughts on people being rude and just stayed with the thread subject. So back to this Drift 6, Think most want to know if the drift 6 in it's short time on the track was it a success or a total dud? What was the reason for bring retired so early? Not who is scum or not.

Better late then never lol Guy prob sold car, bought a SS joined ls1 forum as got sick of waiting for replies or died of thirst/hunger then rotted away at the key board waiting for a reply

Bought a full kit fibreglass kit once so much mucking around for factory fit. In the end sold it off and bought bit by bit of original parts. Summed it up as I can spend hours on getting the dam thing to align properly for a inferior quality part that could crack, break at the rub of a speed bump or small object hitting it, something the factory bar would absorb and return to shape. Then the costs of fixing the fibreglass damage and repainting it. Every Fibreglas bar I have seen has droppy splitters or the Driving light Surrounds dont fit properly and the cheap mesh and driving lights look cheap. If you are going to do it do it properly with genuine parts, you will be so much happier in the end. Otherwise stay with what you have.

Luffy may not be the best race driver out there, but he is far better than most. Before anyone can put him down how about some sort of evidence on how you are a better driver, if not keep your comments to yourself. lots are quick to put others down but are in no way any better themselfs, I have been taught dont open your mouth unless you have good to say about another. And no I dont know him or his dad personally, I'm just sick of people bad mouthing others, especially ones they dont even really know. Bit of a shame for the Drift 6 if it is not to be used in anger again. Maybe we all should get on to Ford and tell them to do a GT 335 Drift, its got ample power, its strong, it can rev, it would sound orsm. Could you just imagine that SC Whine and V8 Note, how sweet.

What are these like everyday use street driving. Heard you have to keep scrubbing them? Also do get good k's as well as xyz mentions. I'm currently running Toyo proxy 4's and with 12 psi it's on the edge of traction in 3rd (t56) Now when I had set boost at 17 psi it was insane with I stand opposite lock 1-3rd hardly moved. Also running to4z, Taz manifold, Plazmaman plenum, 3.5 x-force etc with Pedders coil over extreme front and pedders sports lowered rear. No clutch 3rd gear as boost comes on 90k it instant opposite lock, get off it straighten select 4th that's 17psi, so pretty useless with the proxy's at that psi. Been wanting to go a semi slick but concerned on the everyday driving and if having to regularly scrape them.

It also hit the wall at willowbank from memory.

Kyle173 Yes and no it's about money. You can't make a lump of old cast iron go faster than it can hold together. You can throw every dollar possible at the ford I6 and it won't stay together. For it to even have a chance it would need to be made and designed like a 2jz. Steel crank short stroke. Rotating mass and piston speed have a lot to do with a engine being able to survive. All out potential is not limited by money but by design. Cranny I could never see that monster i6 ever being able to out accelerate a coyote powered vehicle little though fit in a car. As said earlier in my posts, i6 long stroke is a orsm low rev tow/hual engine and yes a v8 can't compete as well those monster diesels do. And could you imagine a haul train with a bank protruding out each sides with a set of manifolds and all. Every engine has it's design benifits. You will find why The I6 Ford gas been around so long is because it makes low down power meaning less throttle percentage meaning good fuel Eco. Great for taxis and everyday commuting. As far as im aware Ford have never backed it in motor sport prior to the drift car because it was never designed to be revved. They backed the drift car and built it to make low revving power with selection of a small frame turbo not like the monster turbos you see on the Skylines which nearly double the revs of a stand i6. You want outright reliable maximum performance the Coyote would be the choice. You want to tow a 20ft boat around and get good eco the I6 would be better. Ands thanks Cranny on the comment, it gas been a good debate albeit the rude uneducated smugness of some. I love high performance cars and building engines that go hard. the BA has made me very happy bar the failures. It is exceptional but for what I want out of it the Coyote would be so much better, I would have one in a heartbeat if fives permitted. And yes the I6 would go. With many good memories of toasting some very tuff cars, one being a vz clubbie with twin GT32's and yes we both talked and exchanged mods, he couldnt get over the low boost I was running with mild setup and internally standard engine bar the nizpro valve springs. He was amazed, good he doesn't know my rod let go a few weeks after.

Reason being is the coyote is restricted due to driveline durability hence why only the small margin. Also fpv have stated they are keeping it's power in reserve for any challenge hsv may produce. The Coyote makes more power and torque on less boost. Cranny I can understand where you are coming for if it's only a lease company car as don't think they would like you modding it or taking on the track. A d on the street there would not be anything to justify the difference. The inferior engine quality is still good enough to survive whatever is dished out in standard form. It's not until you go pushing the limits that the true potential is shown. I would be a lot happier with a coyote making 450rwkw then a i6. Also have I every said the i6 is crap NO I have said it is not of the quality the Coyote is. Also not everyone is going to purchase a vehicle for least. A lot will be purchasing them and pushing there limits. If you are going to push them hard it's no brainer you buy the most reliable with most potential. Also there is bugger all with weight difference between the 2 as passenger weight could make more of a difference. Eco wise the I6 is pretty dam good and manly due to it's long stroke low torque efficiency. Mine with the To4z and making rod breaking power ran 8.8l to 100k highway, best Eco I have every achieved from a car. Done with safe 11.9 afr's. Eco being another bonus towards a leased vehicle or someone more wanting Eco over power. For all those who can't even add a decent reply and just copy other posts and add emot's as they have nothing knowledgeable they can add to the debate about the advantage either the i6 or Coyote have, how about growing up and taking note of what others have to say. You may learn somethings and it may save you money pending your plans. I have spent a fortune on improving my I6 and still it is no where near as reliable as a factory Coyote engine is. I live in fear of the crank causing my next failure.

Ah wait there is more Potenial to rev higher and harder. Try revving a standard crank i6 over 7000rpm for a sustain period of time and see what Happens, the Coyote crank will do it comfortably. So more engine Capacity & higher revs does not equal more potential prove me wrong. Just can't see a twin turbo'd or even still a geared up blown intercooled Coyote not having more potential then a out dated I6. And yes got to stop biting and wasting my time trying to explain to half brained twats why the Coyote is so much better.

Potential as in over 1500hp. and yes even quicker times then 8's done by i6. Even the old 5.4 has 7's in the states but mine yes a lighter stang. Agree in not much difference with potential as what's a few tenths of a second anyway. But the the main part of it's potential will be to stay together with it's superior engine design. Also it will have more potential as track engine as in circuit racing. Potential in how quick they have run so far without intercoolers, gearing up the sc or even developing more efficient headers/Extractors, suspension mods. I can recall when the i6 first arrived it took ages for one to run into the 11's. Seems now most do agree the Coyote is by far a more superior engine so that being the case and the rest of the FG being basically identical why then do you i6 guys still think the coyote does not have more potential. I have never said the i6 is not a good performer just that it is not a reliable motor due to it's cost budgeting design that also design originated from the first Aus falcon. Everyone would have to agree the I6 would be so much better and have alot more potential if it was built with forged crank and rods and more square in bore to stroke ratio. However due to it's long crank design it still would not be as good as the Coyote and would not have the engine capacity. The i6 is fantastic for what it is, but honestly if you think it's the better option stay with it while everyone with more than half a brain will choose the much refined Coyote powered vehicle. In plain simple as it gets 310kw @ 565Nm v's 335kw @ 570Nm Rest of vehicles are both near identical with no other advantage one has over the other. GT wins. So Joe blow with his stock off the floor i6 is more creditable then motor or wheels mag Testing genuine untouched

Sounds pretty kickass HI PSI. Prob same head I have, havent got around to hooking a convector up though for the screen. What converter you recommend to run on it and what sort of dollars are they. Test the voltage going in or the voltage going out to sub? What am I looking for, sudden dips in voltage, had no head light dimming issues when it's cranking.

Ok so the totally stock F6 ran 12.3 no mods at all, factory tyres, factory tune, factory air cleaner and so total as bought from dealer new. Be interesting to hear about it. Pretty dam good, have anyothers got near that time and hoe come that F6 hasn't gone quicker yet considering it was on a hot humid day. Did owner end up modding it? Not being smart or anything just never heard of it that's all. and Fly F6 with his supposedly running 12.38 is same car you are talking about. I know the RDP car ran 10.9 but had turbo, exhaust, ic, and tune mods. Also the the 11.8, you mentioned you said metal intake piping, was it running more boost than standard, maybe intercooler, why had they changed the piping if no boost increase? The Standard GT tune only went 11.7 so that's quicker and XFT's GS ute also went 11.7 of memory, tune only, not even airfilter change. Then same GT running 11.5 cat back exhaust. These are not even intercooled and look at what they can do. Near everyone buys better rubber than what car comes with and once the GT has decent rubber under it it should be alot quicker than a F6. From all the motor mags I saw I was disappointed that the F6 was only as quick as the G6et. Also the GT is Faster in Standard Form, both Wherls Mag and Motor tested it and both stated the fact. Wheels said in the comparo between the GTS, F6 & GT that from 0-180 the GT had put 80m between the GTS and the F6 had Put 25m on the GTS that's GT by 55m on the F6. GT is faster! Motor Mag stated it with actual timing the speeds, if I have to I will when I get home quote out it's acceleration. If both the Motor & Wheels mags with actual factory standard cars and experienced drivers come to the same conclusion it is faster well I'm believing them over Joe blow who claims his F6 has gone 7.0 @ 190mph with just and only a air filter replacement. Also the quarter testing in the motor Mag also by memory stated the GT to be Quicker even though both struggled for traction with saying both would be quicker again if had better track and tyre. Even still as I have also said earlier even if the GT was slower it has more potential and I and many others would prefer it over a F6. Also both are still great Aussie heavy weights and both show the HSV the way home.

Flying f6 That's pretty dam good 12.38 must of been quickest FG F6 in Aus hadn't heard one go that quick with just a air filter, that k&n must be a orsm filter, pretty sure the herrod car was the first FG to run one as well tune and other stuff and don't think it even went that quick. You running slicks on it to do those times. Even still standard GT 335 tune only standard filter went 11.7 so sorry to say but 11.7 is quicker than 12.38. Won't be long and we will start seeing some very quick times from these Coyote's. As for media they have all said the times would be a lot quicker if it wasn't for the small rubber on the rear. Get a GT 335 and put some 265 Toyo proxy or anything similar and it will be quicker than a F6 with same straight out the box. Will just have to wait till we hear someone do so to get a idea if what potential these have in standard form with decent rubber. XR09 stop bloody teasing us, what a nice package. Didn't take long for someone to do it. Wonder how much a blown coyote will be from a wrecker if someone happens to write one off. Maybe should finish my engine build and sell it if one comes up. Bit of a job though and would need gearbox, ecu, wiring, sump modified and numerous other things. Stop I'm just dreaming again just going have to rob a bank and go buy one. Why did ford have to do this I was happy building my new i6 and molding my car and now it is not going to be as great as what it was as we will start seeing modded GT's and GS's and they are going to be hard to beat They will rule the street. GT is back where it belongs, top of the ford line up.

PM on old brakes. Set of used 6 pots brembos on EBay start $2000

Great work there XR09 Very good reading maybe when I get some spare time I will read it and see if it helps me in locating the rods flaws. They should also have info on forged metals Has cranny and the rest of the i6 guys gone on holidays not getting any response from them, do you think they may have finally relized the i6 isn't in the same league as the coyote. Bit surprised to see the TVR runs a ductile cast crank? Then again I heard they used the V8 Ford Windsor/5.0L and it has the cast iron crank. I would have though that being of sportscar statue they would have up graded the internals.

Brembos or any other caliper that can accommodate a 32mm thick disc and fit the falcon. Eg APracing, Alcon, PBR Mono Blocks. If your after a larger disk the is a disk and bracket kit available from I think Race Brakes Australia down Sydney way, use to advertise them on Ebay. And off memory I think it was $700. Other than that keep searching EBay as from time to time good kits come up at great prices. Ferntree Gully Wrecking Aldo was doing different kits as well had some really good deals on brembo kits, I think by memory new 6 piston with 355mm disks, brackets, pads, and lines for $2500. I was spewing as I paid $3500 for my AP racing 4 pots with 330mm DBA5000's. And didn't have $2000 for there 4 piston brembo rear sets. Try those suggestions as they where my best finds.

XR09 That's what we need here, just hope it's understandable for all. Maybe people will understand why the Coyote is far superior. Do you have the link for it or is it a document? I did a bit of ACAD Inventor when I was doing my diploma, and was amazed of it's Materials list and how it could test strengths, like draft up say a axle and apply a twisting Force to it and it would give full analysts of the result. You entered in the material type and you could change from one to another to see different Results, pretty accurate as well, my teacher told me he had taught guys from DJR this program. I have also been shown rollcage structural drafting/designing by one of the 888 engineers He was currently doing one for the new at time falcon racecar that was in the chassis section being fabricated. He showed me how he could turn off varies layers like shell, driveline, panels etc He showed me how they simulated crash impacts and how the program showed the stress Area values at every joint. Pretty dam amazing. That's new tech being used on new and improved engineered practices along with All the new CNC machining and high grade materials. I can't recall a single piece on a V8 being cast iron, entry of forged alloys and steels along with carbon fiber. Give me a GT 335 someone please, I promise I won't text another thing about it, I will be to busy driving it till I have no fuel money, and probably be sleeping in it as well. And no smart Replies, I have a wife, and yes she will also be made to sleep in it. Time to sleep and dream about owning a GT 335 Good night hope all have had a good start to the year

XR09 Think your talking in a different language there, but great work. Just these guys who think the I6 is better than the coyote even though so many have tried to point out how much better the coyote engine is. They cant grasb the basics, they defeintly arn't going to understand what you have posted. I dont, but I have built engines since I was 15yo and you learn that cast is ok to a point, but forged is so much better and that its a bit of cost differance. These days the cost differance isn't so huge. I started working as a VW Mech back in 88 and for instance a forged moly crank was over $5000 for a vw. a guy I knew back then from the workshop had a very quick street beetle running 11.7 NA and held the SSC bracket for 3 years. No way a Cast crank would survive in that engine. The same guy went on to start up Crankshaft Engineering. I know as I was only a youngster on low pay and building engine after engine for my own street beetle. A hole engine would set me back a couple hundred so didn't matter if it broke, just ment I had to rebuild it. Could not afford a Steel crank. Dagabond what do you mean casting is similar? From what I know the only Similarities are that both get heated to molten metal both get poured into a mould. The cast goes into a mould that is at finished size except areas like bearing surfaces are larger so can be machined to size. from there it goes into cooling processes. It is as cast and not compressed. Forging goes into a mould suitable sized for the amount of material to be compressed into its desired shape. once it turns to a solid mass and still in a formable state it goes into the press mould where it is stamped into its desired shape. Once again the bearing surfaces are larger for final machining. There are other processes like magnetics and nitriting I have heard about but dont much about except it is to get the grain flowing in the right direction and to strengthen. Both Cast and Forging can be shot peened for added strength.

So many things could have been the reason, only way to know for sure would be to have it examined by a Metallurgists, Just not worth it for a $30 part. The main thing is Cast Iron has to many inconsistancies opposed to Forged. At this point it is just a sh*t rod and most know it. Wonder if there is a clip on bullet proofing showing the strengths of different materials. What would you stand behind a 4mm plate of cast iron or 2mm plate of Plate Steel, I choose the later. Here is a You Tube link to Forging Process that may be helpful to some http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXVWiGqeltM If Its Got To Be Tuff - Go Coyote

Photo don't do much for it. But yes to see the grain a microscope is needed. What I mean is by the markings and way and direction of the break Goes you can tell the inconsistent grain pattern. The break follows the weakest path. I'm shocking at wording things the right way.

I thinking it's mainly a heat issue, the camber & offset is just adding to the problem. As said earlier mines done 126k and not a sign of any problem. I run 245x35x19 front & 265x30x19 rear on 19x8.5 & 19x9.5 rims. I have yet to do a track day so can't comment about that. The AP Racing 4 pots & 330mm DBA5000 2 piece disks have never glowed. When first bought car with standard brakes one big brake application was enough to make them glow. Not mention shudder badly which may also be another cause of bearing failure. My brakes cop a hard time as love breaking late. Another thing which may affect is with standard suspension when hard on breaks is there much camber or castor change? I run Pedders Coil over so that could possibly be helping the bearings survive. Also hard cornering, if outside wheel is loading up with positive camber it may also put extra strain on the bearings. Suggest to add brake ducting and have suspension camber and castor checked for hard braking and cornering. Try to find more ideas from v8 brute guys on how to make them last. Hope participating in this thread does not curse my bearings.