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There will be different ways that suit each car. Stock v's tuned Fibre clutch ceramic clutch Type of tyres Etc eta I used to half clutch, let it slip a little till it moved then drop full nail. But after fitting to4z setup it just boost so quick it is so easy to fry the Clutch. Best possible way is to fit billet driveshafts, slicks and just dump it and Hope nothing else breaks.

All the GT needs to compliment that orsm engine is a pair of 275/285 Toyo Proxy's or equivalent. Had situation where I was running around 300rwkw with nangkangs on and had a stock ve SS show me there tail lights till mid 3rd, man I was pissed. Need to say those tyres soon where added to the tyre dump. It's very weird why ford had not upgraded the tyres for the GT maybe trying to be a bit historical like the old GTHO ph3 having huge power and on pathetic little rubber. Once we start seeing tuned GT's with good rubber, that when it will show it's power. We are already seeing over 400rwkw from tune only, wait once the sc gets geared up to make some decent boost and what ever other bolt ons become available. Think the auto will struggle. Another reason to go manual if you are going to chase bigger numbers.

Adam that's all cool. Rattler yes that's right, there is so many other variables in these tunes that can pronounce pinging, I'm basically suggesting it's safer to run that little bit richer for the sake of a little more power. Everyone must have seen race cars on there off throttle how they get big flames from exhausts or you see big puffs of black smoke between gear changes. It's a way to cool upper cylinder temps and turbines. With different octane and fuel densities you will find a variety of optimal ratios as well slight variances between engines pending numerous things as compression, cylinder chamber shape, plug positioning etc. Pending how well a combustion chamber design will also determin what compression and fuels can be used at what afr and of course how much timing can be added.

Adam I mentioned I run 11.9 as it's what I set mine to at instant wot then set it to tapper back down to 12.4 and yes I have set it at flat levels between 11.5 to 13 and as you said they do respond well at mid 12 any more or less and you can feel the power drop off. Didn't feel like mentioning that I tapper it to 12.4 as If you do and get a bad batch of fuel your engine will most likely ping. Also if using standard ic and it's a very hot day there will be more chance for it to ping. It's sweet to run at mid 12 but you do have to becareful. If you choose to run mid 12 afr's keep a high 11 tune handy incase of bad fuel. A very hot day will also increase risk of pinging so just becarefull if you do run mid 12 afr's. Adam think you will find the le man cars run very high octane fuel so it can take 16 to 1 afr's. True Running extreme rich mixtures will cause lots of problems just as a lean mix does. However when talking rich low 11 to high 11 Mixtures it is the safest to run, pretty sure ford run them at high 10's for safety worst case senario of extreme hot day towing a caravan up a mountain road with 91 Ron. I use a PLX industries wideband oled gauge setup on mine. Can run upto 4 seniors into the one gauge monitor. Can run the loaded screens or make your own custom ones. Choose different backgrounds. Displays analog, digital, graph, with min and max recalls and warnings. And more.

Trav199 Hows your low down as the Plazmaman plenum probably not the best thing to use on a na. It's designed for boost I would be worried your rear cylinders are going to run rich a low rpm wot. Have you checked cylinder temps and afr's. And running twin 2.5 exhaust won't help low rpm air speed, be interesting to actually see a dyno on it and to see if the plenum and exhaust are affecting it's power delivery.

Also don't bother to try building these i6's to rev past 6000 as you may get minimal power gain but at a high risk. The oil pump can hydraulic itself to pieces (fixed by improving oil releif) The rods and crank are both of cast iron and not strong enough to cope with sustained high revs. As well being a low rev torque monster with it's long stroke small diameter piston you will find piston speed to be to excessive at higher then 6000rpm. Also upgrade your valve springs as it will help with valve control.

I know this is a na discussion but I had a na beat my BAXR6t with To4z, hdi cooler, xforce exhaust, Plazmaman plenum, seimens injectors etc eta. If only my turbo to ic hose didn't blow off. Serious now, Some good numbers there for those na's. Do suggest to either go with a decent tune from either sct flash, vfm or snipper to get the most from your cars. Pretty much the setup OP is running except his clutch. If your chasing dyno numbers stay with the manual, preferably a t5 as it has smaller internals so should not rob as much power. A bit of intake porting would help as I'm pretty sure the flow percentages are same as T heads and it is suited for boost applications. You want as close as possible a 1% intake flow to 0.75 exhaust flow in a na application. Research your exhausts, pacemakers work well, find a cat that flows well, I have had great results from race magnum mufflers in the past mind you there are plenty of good ones on the market these days. Don't go any bigger then 2.5 or you will loose to much bottom end, make sure you use mandrel bends and that all joins are flush for a uninterfeared flow path. You want to find the best location on the car for the cold air intake as the more air pressure the better the cylinder fill. Your intake needs to be as smooth as possible with least bends possible and the straighter the better. Makes it hard where the throttle body is positioned, I have seen people reverse it so it points towards the strut tower, it's a good option as you will shorten the intake tract as well get rid of the usual 180 bend. Other then that fit a scoope on bonnet to flow through filtered airbox straight into throttle body in it's original position. Keep in mine the quicker the air can get in to the cylinders the more it fills it, then the more fuel can be added to give more power. The exhaust needs to be able to draw as much from the cylinders as it can. A lot of people get it wrong here as they think big large ports so you can fit more through, the problem is in doing so you lose air speed, which causes the cylinders to to fill or empty as much volume. Mine you if building a engine to rev extremely high large ports are the choice, just lose all low down power though. Hope helps some of you na guys in your power hunt.

Jimmixr thanks on interests on my opinion. You seem to miss my point, I referred to bomber stating the T56/t6060 are not such as a dog box and quoted opinions of other affordable Cars manual gearboxs from experience. When you state the likes of the BMW & Merc's, yes you would hope they where far better for the coin. Only thing is if the Astons & Jags use the same box as our falcons then your opinion on what is good and not maybe different to lots of others. I like manual gearboxs that are over engineered not ones that just cope. Hence why I stated varies manual gearboxs I have experienced. The VW cheap euro was a excellent box for it's era, very strong, used in off road race buggies etc. The great old Toploader, not much could match it's strength in it's day. Now we have a T56 that can handle inexcess of 1000rwhp with a bit of strengthening. That's my point, the Factory autos won't. You need to either use a C4 or Glide for those power levels unless you want to change the box everytime it goes bang. How many of these Euro manual gearboxs can handle 1000rwhp, and cost the same as the T56 using OEM gears. Then if you are saying the t56 is slow in gear change, are you comparing it to paddle shift or dual clutch boxs that cost 3 times the t56? I can change cogs very quickly in mine, can also flat change but prefer not to. Even toasted a 2008 m5 while my clutch was slipping, in 3rd-5th. What do you think of the R35 with it's dual clutch manual? Maybe it shifts nice, but have you heard how it smashes 1st & 2nd cogs mainly due to the launch control as well it runs smaller cogs then the r34. Also apparently you have to service the box every 1800k's with a special recipe of fluid that Nissan only supplies at a price of $100 per liter and that it holds something like 10 liters. Alot of these euro gearboxs you mention will be very similar in service costs and not any stronger then a T56. Mostly you will fine the reason why the T56 feels slower, has a heavier shift etc is because it has larger cogs, greater size, more weight. It's the same when you compare the t56 to a truck gearbox, yes I use to drive trucks for a living, very slow heavy shifts. Larger internals again, more weight more friction. From my knowledge Tremac along with Hollinger, Doug Nash, Richmond etc are gearbox's of choice in a lot of motorsport classes. Can't be to bad to be amongst those brands. A T56/T6060 is in my opinion a great manual gearbox, it handles excessive power it's cheap to service, and it feels better than any other relevant manual gearbox I have driven. I doubt you could find a better box bfyb. Geeus cranny didn't know they used tremac's in hummers and trucks, they must know how to build strong box's to haul all that weight around. Agree peoples opinion do count, just look at the vt gen3, they road tested them all portrayed it as a great engine, little did people know it was plagued with poor oil pickup as well poor machining tolerances which saw lots of engines rerung from as little as 20k and some even destroy themselves. You just can't go test a car and have a definant verdic, you need to see how they go after they have clocked up k's. You want a good feel of a vehicle go test high k examples. That will give a better idea of what will last and feel good still. It will still vary depending on how well vehicle is maintained and weather it's Major parts are original or not. From peoples opinions you can work out a lot, some may be more helpful then others, some may be wrong, but you have to evaluate all opinions and work through the answers that are most relevant to what you want.

Apparently the Late model camira v8 one fits and is slightly stronger and cheaper? I enquired a while ago, but because engine let go I did not get one. Think they where something like $250 from ford? And auto shops not far behind. Tried a tailshaft manufacture here in QLD and was told V8 Late model camira and $150? Hard to imagine that small bit of rubber taking all the power and torque these cars put out.

DOT would have a field day along with ego hungry cops provoking people so it gets messy and out of hand. Next ACA reports hoons plot a attack on parliament house. Such a hard one, it could work if the point gets accross. Everyone make banners up referring that gov does not care for lifes or it would do driver Ed for new drivers instead putting money in there back pockets etc. Need to get media on side not offside. Need to nominate a spokesperson to lead negotiations. Good if we can get a celebrity, maybe hit up Eric Banner as he is well known and a car nut like us. This country is going to the dogs, can't even discipline your children, and the police can't help when they get to that wonderful teens where they won't listen to you and do as they please because they know worst could happen is they get spoken to. While us parents sit at home waiting for that dreaded call that they have been harmed. Your cars to noisy, your car looks to shinny, your wheels are to big, your undies don't match. Just so hate this society the pollies have created.

My work is the opposite, saying no work so forced to take leave and to top it off havnt been paid for nearly 3 weeks as they are saying the payrol company was affected at west end. Great, we have no food? No money for bills? We struggled to get a rented house before this flood so how are people who have lost there home going to find a place to live? closing a evacuation center, just takes the cake, maybe the pollies need to open there homes up for them while they try to live in the gutter. Weird how they can find accommodation for refugee's but don't give a sh*t for our own.

Not bad thinking there, probably get a smoother finish if you clamp vice grip in vice and just clamp down a little with vice grip at a time and roll the tube around a couple times working back and forth then clamp a bit more and do over again until you get a good bead. Probably do it in 3 steps. Just like how you use a pipe cutting tool. An improved version would be to find 2 sealed bearings in place of the exhaust clamp and a thin sealed bearing instead of the washer so to make rotating effort easier with less damage from the clamping of the exhaust clamp. Would not need to have multiply vice grips for different pipe size as well. Good fine there Conrad

No got it all wrong, think Wiki states a boon as being a young male in a hotted up import. Something like that as I remember. And apparently us Falcon & Late model camira drivers are middle aged bogans. So if that's correct we have nothing to fear. I'm a bogan as not young and don't own a import. Only way for something to be done is for someone to organize a car club committee to speak for the numerous car groups in your state. It would need for everyone to stand up as one to fight for the rights not the odd whinge here and there on a forum. This is where the Gov has us as we are all in our small specific groups. We all need to stand against them to get any fair result. It would be great if we had a minister for car enthusiasts to do something about this revenue raising scam they have. Also push for driver Ed and defensive driving as compulsory and funded by the state by speed camera revenue. You speed you help pay to educate a new driver. You boon you get fined and have to attend Defensive Driving with teachings in consequences on what could happen in a loss of control situations. That's fair not this put your money into pollies pocket, impound your car crap. How much effect would happen if people actually where taut how unsafe it is in a collison eg even at speed limit 60k head on, very messy may help change the perspective of a young uneducated driver. I recall back when I was a hoon, must admit though I would never make a mistake and if I did crash my car was a big solid piece of metal and would only ding a panel or 2. The rare occasion I had lost control but I always allowed for the error so lucky I did. There where times when I though my car would pull straight under power as it normally does but no it decides to do something different. Maybe due to slight unseen dip or crack in road surface. Back then I thought I was invincible, I have learnt now with age and experience that many a time if something went wrong I or others may not be around. Cars don't always behave as expected. Thing is you can't expect a young driver to know these things unless taut. Most cases of fatalities are the young so called hoons, not the older guys who know better. The young need to be educated if the gov really cares about saving lifes and not about filling there pockets teach our youth, not punish them. Make then better safer drivers. I dare say there will be alot of people that are not going to hand over there cars and that means dangerous car chases. Not smart move.

T56 handles more power. If you want serious power and auto you go either power glide or C4. The T56 hasn't any more problems than any other manual gearbox, the usual problems are the clutch not handling the power. Just fit a clutch that will. Other than that the input shaft is a problem area if you want to use it on a circuit, apparently the Late model camira shaft is a stronger shaft and being used. Look up Brian Lords Nizpro monster and many other extreme powered Turbo falcons and you will find either a T56 or Glide or C4 in them. Mine you all these cars run beefed up versions of the gearbox of choice. Bomber maybe you are referring to the t5 box as yes it's a known dog as you call it. The T56 is to me the best manual I have driven in my life and I have own many different manual cars, I have owned auto cars as well and did like the big stall v8 cortina I built but even still I missed having a manual. The T56 feels very positive in it's gates with nice feel that you can feel it slotting into gear, yes it is stiffer than a ricer box but I like it that way, my daughters r33 shift just feels so plastic and sloppy in comparisment. My TX5 turbo and TX3 were not to bad bit better than the skyline but still soft on the gates prone to breaking 2nd cog. My VW beetles where pretty good though after I had fitted shortened quick shifts never broke one and gave them so much torture especially the baja's going off road doing mad stuff like jumps and bush bashing. My Falcons with Toploader boxs where very slow and easy to miss gears. My 6cyl cortina's with borgwarner 4speeds where reasonably smooth but suffered front bearings (fixed by fitting the toploader front bearing) they where also bad for ripping the lever out of box and smashing 2nd cog. As I have said, had lots of manual cars and there was a few others not in that list and the T56 is best by far. The T5 that was originally in my BA was not bad but started to strain once I fitted my exhaust with tune and few other mods. T5 Internals are a lot smaller and weaker then T56. My T56 is a BF version so I would dare say the new FG box should even be a better box again. God dam thinking about it, man I have owned a lot of vehicles. Think this T is the longest I have kept a car, probably be my last to unless someone wants to buy me a new GT or I get a better paying job.

Maybe all cars should be like a gee wiz , have to push up driveway and avoid hitting pedestrians for risk of getting by them. As far as I'm concerned it's all revenue, they need a marketing ploy for the general public to believe and speeding and hoons are it. It's not if they could make any money from some drinking bum that they have to jail. I have nothing against people drinking, I do occassionally, but at least I know it's affects and being behind a wheel of any car is not the place to be little though in control of a bottle opener. Wish someone would stand up to these pollies, I will support it in whatever way I can. Maybe contact that lawyer in Sydney running that law suit against vodafone. I'm in Queensland so the Vic laws won't affect me unless QLD follow suit. But do you guys have a racq or equivalent, maybe worth while seeing if they can help in some way of getting action done. Get so annoyed how they always target car enthusiasts for revenue. We have money to throw away because we spend it on our cars so hit us.

You will find when a tuner offers a generic tune if he knows what he is doing it will be safe like slightly rich and not to aggressive, he should be looking after his name. However you get some others that claim there tunes make more power but it's not so friendly on the engine, they hope they don't get many failures and hope the extra power gives them business over the safe tuner. These engines are built to closer tolerances but still are not as precise as euro or jap. Even still for someone wanting to get some more power from a standard t a generic tune should be fine. For safe reasons I would suggest to fit a wideband o2 gauge so you can monitor afr's Pre & post tune. If you get unsafe readings then get a custom tune. Having the gauge will also make the tuner be more honest as you will be able to monitor the fuel differences he has made. I have learnt as with my car BA XRT man sedan, as it was tuned when I purchased it, previous owner told me of the bad tuning performed by a very reputable long time company in Brisbane southside, said he went back numerous times and that they could not get it sorted. He then went to another known tuner same area who sorted it, well so he thought. I drove it for approx 6mths as was, always bit rich on pipe colour, 1100rpm idle, random miss at idle, random erratic start up where I would have to shut it down restart. Fuel Eco of 12.5 highway. But hay 275rwkw great. I fitted x-force 3.5 system to it, livened it up plenty more, ran at drags with a disappointing 13.9, mine you poor 60ft being manual. Decided to tune it myself starting off from a generic tune BPR done along with Racer Pro package. Just tinkering with tune over a few weeks, had it idling at 400rpm (wow could not belei e it) but set it at 550 just so it was less risky to stall. Set afr's at 11.9 nice and safe, no more random miss, no more random erratic start ups, Eco now amazing 9l per 100k and dropped my ets to 13.5. Not to bad for a novice. Anyway moved on from there with a lot more goodies and found how weak the rods are. At the end of it all, I'm saying becareful on your chosen tuner, make sure whatever boltons you add are suitable for your goal and to be safe get a wideband o2 gauge. Keep in mind with more power comes a cost to reliability. Things to beware of with tuning for more power are. BA conrods Valve springs Turbo oil supply (make sure not blocking up) Wastegate flapper (can only control so much flow due to it's size) The BA-BF turbo housing is prone for cracking Fuel supply (fuel surge in tank) Driveshafts T5 manuals and 4spd autos With those problems a tune will have a worst effect if they are not attended to. So if you want power be prepared to spend or break then spend. Just my learnings, hope it helps. It's not always a bad tune be it generic or custom but mostly due to the limits of these engines, driveline and fuel supply that cause these failures we hear.

For the person who said BA's don't have TC, they do, well mine has yet it's useless as it doesn't seem to do anything, it doesn't have DSC. The DSC can be of use even for the most skilled driver as it controls braking to required corner of vehicle which driver can not do unless they have 4 separate brake pedals/system. As for TC, unless you are stupid and can't control your right foot it is not needed. The TC can be set from 0-10 by tune, have not even worried about changing or turning it off as it has not worried me as yet. 0 being off & 10 being very sensitive. My opinion is TC is more a problem as it can cause driveline problems and slow overtaking or emergency situations. If your TC is operating premature, see if Ford or Tuner can set it lower that way it's not cutting fuel until it's really required as in stepping out sideways. It's correct job is to allow minimal tyre slip while being able to put max power down when required. If it is not doing that it is not working as per it's design.

Revenue So sick of the pollies filling there pockets, they make themselfs out to be protectors of The people, well why won't they do driver Ed like other countries do, advanced driver ed for those who are interested, teach the young what happens I. High impact accidents, how to avoid them. Teach Fu*kwits how to merge, what indicator to use at a round a bout, fine drivers the same for doing under the limit the same as over. So many times I have been driving down the highway and had to slam brakes on to prevent hitting car in front because some d*ck is to scared to drive at the speed limit up front. They say speed kills, but how many of those occasions has the driver been intoxicated or drug f*cked, that being the real reason. Looks better for there revenue to say it's all speed related and to punish those that do it rather to say it was alcohol or drug related and we are spending tax payers money to rehabilitate them. For f*ck sake how many people have to die from repeat drunk/drugged drivers. You drink drive you get fined (revenue) told not to do it again maybe suspended for 2hrs but then it's all good to do it again. Why don't they crush the repeat intoxicated drivers cars? Suppose it's better to keep fining them rather to lock them up. Guys here that have had or heard of bad injuries or death due to speed can it be said it was solely speed that was the cause and because the offender was intoxicated? There needs to be a partition done to have revenue used as driver Ed. If someone commits a so called hoon offense, rather then make then suffer financial difficulties that would lead to them having to steel to live, how about enforced driver Ed where they have to attend or then have car crushed if they dont. I have had more close calls with people who are uncompedant drivers rather then so called hoons. People need to be educated to drive competently. I have fears on my children starting to drive as yes they will show off to friends, maybe be stupid and drink drive and maybe die in a accident, it I could afford driver Ed or even defensive driver training I would. I have to just try to teach them as best I can and hope they listen. So many incompetent drivers are given licenses, they just barely pass a driving test, have no idea of what to do in emergencies as never taught. Then are allowed to drive amounts us, now how scary is that. Helps with L & P's on them as we know to prepare for the worst, but doesn't help the poor bugger coming towards them in the opposite direction that is unaware of what the poorly taught inexperienced driver may possibly do in a emergency situation. Eg chatting away to passenger friend then car in front stops so they steer straight into grassed medium strip loose traction veer into oncoming traffic. If my car was ever at risk, I would have to be chased for them to take it. Think lots of others will feel the same.

Lucky bastard GT, white & manual. Yes not keen on wheels either but atleast they are not the gts wheels. Put them away and get some nice big fat rubber on it.

What about the idiots with that yacht, how lucky not to die.

F#*k mother nature, what a bitch she can be. I'm grown man and have been hard to fight back the tears for all that have loss, could not hold them back for that poor husband on his 46th birthday and his son who have lost there wife/mum & son/brother, to hear how his wife would cook him a special meal, the poor guy who saved the son but was unable to save the boys brother or mum, the boy who is a hero for telling the man to save his younger brother. Just sucks and rips the heart to hear all the loss. We are safe where we are but still affected as no supplies like milk & Bread and tap water is at threat. A bit stupid here, but where did the flood come from in towoomba, was it a dam up there as only hearing news on the wienhoe (excuse spelling) and it could not have caused it. Found no info on the web, it's like as if they are hiding it all, maybe for national security? Looked on google earth and even the dam is only a 3rd drawing?

Why is it running rich, did the tuner set it very rich on the na tune? What injectors are you running? Are you running map and boost sensors? What Ecu? If you are getting water in I think you will find it would start fouling the plugs and cause a splutter not a dead spot. Now if you are getting splutter it could be spark plug gapping needing closing up a bit. even if it is running rich at idle does not mean its got enough fuel when boost comes on. if you are not running correct sensors it is also going to have problems. Also the ecu wont be set for boost compensation so it wont add fuel when boost comes on. Before you go to a tuner make sure you have all sensors installed and find out if the xt ecu can accomadate boost settings. if not look for a Turbo model ecu. Are you using a XT ECU? Another thing could be the cam advance may be to slow for how quick it wants to rev now. That may cause a a dead spot. You are saying it comes and goes, could be signs of the vct sticking, a problem I have heard before. drop boost back and test it, if it goes back to normal, then the vct should be right so you can eliminate it being the cause.

*Beep* 4" is a bit of over kill, as with my setup 4" dump ext gate with 2" pipe merge at cat then 3.5 x-force back. 12psi it struggled big time for traction on street on soft tune and did temporally hook both vac and pressure lines to gate not thinking and it was insane, 1st-3rd instant opposite lock and off gas and straighten, gauge was sh*t digital supercheap one it was a little slow and each gear change it would get to 17psi by the change but may have been more as it was a little slow, it crapped itself, fixed the hoses then new gauge read 12 psi and died a week later. Told Supercheap to stiff there gauges. But man what a weapon, just wasn't very street friendly as slightest bit of throttle would turn the tyres. Yes 4" may give more hp but will it sacrifice any down low or spool? Maybe if I had run 4" 12psi probably be as insane as the 17psi plus. Just couldn't see it being useful on a street car. Once I finish my new engine I'm aiming at staying 12psi street tune and upping to 20psi strip, if I can get some long wearing legal semi slicks in may bring the tune on harder on street tune. For the extra money for the 4" I don't think it's worth it for street use. And especially since the OP is using a lighter XF and if a street car he won't need anymore than what a decent 3.5 setup will give. If he's going to use it solely for drag racing, tub it run huge rubber he might as well stick a GT45. I have struggled to keep power down with mine and was trying as was stock engine and wanted to last longer, it didn't. I ran 2psi 1000-3000rpm 8psi 3000-5500 & 2psi 5500 to 6200 rev cut With 8psi spring fit to progate 50 & it still went 12psi. If I had 4" I probably would have had more problem restricting boost. Anyway good idea OP, take to Simon and he being very experienced should be able to point you in the right path.

Tc shouldn't affect it as it should be making more than what original tune was set for, if anything it won't even be noticeable. The tc as a sensitivity setting of 1-10 so it will all depend on that. Now if vehicle was a XT with 4sp auto etc it's torque limits would be set according to the drive line durability unless the tuner changed them. The Torque settings maybe more the issue but its not going to make it anymore sluggish then what it was with the lower boost setting, The OP said it was fine on lower boost, its not going to cut fuel completely because it is making a bit more power but more so slow fuel and pull timing to limit it at setting I feel considering the car has not be tuned for a turbo that has been fitted, it's fuel supply requirement will not be met and as I said previosly the cool air makes it worse as the more o2 the more fuel required. The OP said it didn't have a problem before upping the boost, with the lower boost not requiring as much fuel as the now set higher boost. Even still the fuel delivery would have been very lean as the tune was for na. More Air = more fuel or you get lean. The LSFT (low speed fuel trim) being the problem as it's the sudden increase of boost that requires more fuel then what his ecu is set to deliver. As it switches to HSFT it isn't effected as much yet it will have lean afr. Also we don't even know what map sensor or boost sensor is fitted and weather they are plugged into the ecu, not to mention the ecu won't even be set for it. The OP needs to give more detail to be able to get the right help as well he is going to need a tuner that knows what he is doing to sort it properly or it will blow. I'm no expert tuner but that's what I have learnt and maybe some time soon a expert tuner will reply to this.

Is the airbox hook up or Is the turbo drawing air from engine bay, just a bit confused when you say it's got airbox but no pod or air intake on turbo? If turbo has no intake attached then you are drawing hot engine bay air, this has a effect on your Air/fuel ratio which is already stretched beyond your tune, the more boost the more fuel is required, if you hook up a wideband o2 gauge you will find your afr is going to be very lean, it is also worsened by the cold dense wet conditions. Best thing is get it tuned before you break it, another thing is is it a Turbo engine or a NA with turbo setup bolted on? If so don't think you should be putting to much boost in it with its compression. Removing the heat shields won't make any difference except risk of heat damage to engine bay or yourself. Turbos actually perform better when hot, it's the air intake that needs to be cool.