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Rapid Running .96 exhaust .7 front 4" inlet, not sure on wheels, just told supplier what I'm running and that's what was supplied. I actually wanted 1.06 exhaust but it came with the .96. I wanted to get car back on road so badly and decided to run it and see how it went. I was very impressed so whoever spec'd it up got it spot on for me. Thanks Hiddeous on the heads up, was thinking of micro switches my self to as the friend of mine who had the GT45 setup was changing it by the eboost2 button, something I didn't want to be doing while WOT. He was running motec ecu, hence why I was not to sure about weather I will be able to set it up with the factory ecu. Probably only going to set it up for 20psi 3rd-6th. Another issue is that car was originally t5 and I changed it to the T56, the ecu is set for 5sp. Been wanting to get a BF 6sp man ecu but sounds like a lot of hassle. Be good to set tune with use of 6th and to run reverse lockout properly and not by the brake switch. It hasn't been a issue for me anyway as 5th gear it's going pretty hard with the 3.46 gears. And you font need to run 5th-6th gear anyway as it's usually well over by then. Heard 6th isn't that strong anyway and should not be used with to much right foot. Another thing I want to sort is the 2 step launch control option in the tune, I get the limiter working but it won't turn off with set speed. Followed all the suggested instructions but still can't get it to work.

If its legal run it before front of rear tyre, I know with na engines 2.5m is the best suited length for power, hence why V8 SC run there's there. You want the look at the back just put in some fake ones. Could even add the 2nd side outlet to. Got to remember can't see car from all angle's at once so if you run 1 side exit it won't really be that noticeable. Could you imagine a single muffler 4" system exiting on the side. Mmmmmm Maybe even could get a flame out to if you can get system hot enough with little rich mix on off throttle in tune. Having flame may not go down to well with local authorities though... Would scare the crap out of Expensive Daewoo drivers though. And could lay claim to really torching those hsv's.

Dalts Sorry must got him mixed up with someone else, but did hear of someone running one and doing a 9 as it was 1 of the reasons why I went with the TO4z. I'm not to interested with what numbers it pulls on a dyno or down the strip, more interested in it being a good streeter and want it to work well on circuit as love to push hard through corners and have good response out, don't like a car that you WOT it wait for the power to hit, only to have to back off as it starts to go very hard as you have run out of road. *Beep* Yes only 11.3 as it was also a t56 and struggled to put power down. Bit like Bcl's huge power but being manual just so hard to get it to hook up. Mates car made 780rwhp on race fuel. It's problem on street was it's 3500 spool point as a posed to mine spooling from as low as 1100. On pump fuel he was running 600rwhp and that was not enough to give him any advantage on mine as said from earlier, from stand still nothing in it, over approx 400m he would have near car length on me. the difference showing basically in 4th gear. Keep that In mine as only running mine on soft 12psi tune. Low speed rolling start and I was getting approx 2 car lengths on him before his would spool. Never tried any high speed rolling starts but think that's where he would have reversed the out come for sure. Was hoping to have new engine finished to be able to see the difference once I could start running 20psi, bugger sold car so won't be able to compare it now. Don't know the truth in why he did, weather he was pissed my internally STD BA engine with it's little TO4z was a better streeter, or the fact he told me how he had run some quick cars and been beaten all because of the lag. Or he got bored waiting for me to build my new engine or what he told me in he sold it to spend more family time??? I know at one point he was thinking of trying the TO4z but was talked out it by his engine builder, that's when he had wheels & housings changed, but still didn't respond how he wanted it to. I think he was not happy spending what he did on it and finding it didn't run as quick as his previous cars, other street cars he has owned have run sub 10's. For street car I really can't see another turbo being better than a TO4z, they spool very quickly they make good usable power and more. I may be a bit bias or wrong but I know mine works well, even my twin plate CI clutch had signs it was not coping with the power. Will have to contact CI to see if I can change from fibre disks to button. I stupidly connected both vac & pressure on my Progate 50 WG when first hooked up my TO4z setup, and when tested it, it was useless, I mean my Toyo Proxy tyres could not put power down with 1st gear stab, instant wheel spin redline, get off it, 2nd repeated & 3rd same. Obviously pulling full boost, supercheap digital gauge shat itself, thinking WTF fixed plumbing to WG. From that experience I know my street tyres are hopeless and that there is plenty of power for me to gain when I do step up the tune from 12psi to 20psi. I know unless I find better street tyres I can't run much more boost then the 12psi I was but will be able to add boost in the taller gears apparently by use of a Eboost2. Hope that is correct, have to learn a bit about setting up for the Eboost2 if it can be done with running factory ecu. I'm aiming for mid year to have it all up and going again with the new engine (yes long time, funds are tight) Will have to find a few of you guys with larger turbos so we can compare differences, maybe convert a few of you to wanting a TO4z. LOL Sorry for my huge post but hope some of it is useful to someone. Yes you want big power it is expensive as everything around the power source needs to be upgraded to support it as well.

Just think about this, didn't Blueboost run 9's with TO4z and internally standard BA? If the To4z has the potenial to do that why bother going bigger. As I also said on the street rolling mates Big Dollar GT45 setup, did not have the instant acceleration mine had and his huge top end did not help. Only spinning mine to 6200rpm and felt so strong up high as if it wanted to spin alot higher. It had it all over the factory Turbo, low, mid & topend. I very happy, it's a great setup, just pity the BA Rods are so crap and spoilt my fun for now. From stand still it was a very close match between our cars. On the strip his ran 11.3's 136mph so it's no slouch. Lots of wheel spin on that run also. If you really want to run a large frame Turbo you need to run 4.1 or lower ratio gears and pull as much weight out of the car to help get it going. I have own many cars with big top end power, and so many times been beaten by a car with less power because it made it lower in the rpm range. It's very hard to close up lost ground unless you have plenty of road.

Mines a TAZ manifold supplied by Hi Torque. Didn't even need to bend any ps lines or any other stuffing around. The hose is a 90degree I trimmed back to get right angle for the placement of the filter. Battery is in boot, helps make more room for filter to breathe. Even dump was a simple 2 90deg bends with WG pipe merge on bottom bend. Mine you fitting the oil drain up is a bitch. Have not fab a airbox as yet but there's no problem of making one to fit. I have run Teflon braided lines for oil & coolant for turbo.

Didn't have to change powersteer lines or powersteer tank for my TO4z. However good idea to change radiator header tank. MSpec ones on eBay for $200 and cheaper. Also probably be able to run the TO4z on standard manifold with adaptor and dump modified or made to suit. Don't need to change intake as can route to standard position. But it is better suited to run custom manifolds to get the most out of it. Careful on those eBay turbos, may work for short time but if a intake wheel let's go you may damage your engine as well srappenal through intercooler. Some of them are made of good materials but not put together real well. If you shop around you will get a true Garrett for a good price. Eg Autobarn wanted $3g and some others similar, I ended up getting mine for $2g with v clamp. That was cheaper then a replacement turbo. I decided to spend extra for manifolds etc and go the TO4z. I found running standard turbo at 18psi with Plazmaman plenum, hdi GT series cooler was equivalent power wise and et same with TO4z only at 12psi. As well the TO4z was way more responsive. Only change was turbo, dump, progate 50 WG and TAZ exhaust manifold. So much more efficient, couldn't even get boost down to 8psi through tune and 8psi spring, tried making tune as soft as I could to prevent rod failure, didn't work. Can't wait till I finally get my new engine finished. Be able to play then. And yes it adds up especially if it's a BA engine, having to build it strong or at least changing to a F6 engine. I'm doing all mine myself right down to tuning and I have spent well over $15g to get mine to where it is. Still have to do driveshafts as well.

Me personally would not waste money on the factory turbo as when I removed Mine when I upgraded to the To4z, I found numerous cracks in the factory exhaust housing. It's a known problem with them In the BA-BF series. They crack around the wastegate valve hole and worst from the bolt holes for the cartridge which cause the housing to cartridge bolts to loosen off. As well not to mention the limiting size with the gate making boost control not so controlled. I still have my exhaust housing and can take photos to show how bad they can crack. I bought my TO4z on recommendations from numerous shops of them being the best suited street turbo for a manual T. If you where to do up a factory turbo with new wheels I would at least get a decent exhaust housing with external gate flange welded on like what ETM offered sometime back. Also use the FG housing if you want to stay with the internal gate as by memory they had a larger gate standard and the housing material was a upgrade to fix the cracking problems. Yes the TO4z setup will cost more then just molding the factory turbo but you end up with a better manifold, improved boost control with ext gate, higher quality turbo. By time you modify the factory turbo its not that cheaper, you can sell of all the factory turbo setup to offset the costs for the TO4z or if wanting numbers up high a GT42 or larger as Bcl stated.

Go To4z With good set up you will turn quality tyres in 3rd with under 20psi as well return under 9l per 100k Eco and I know with mine it's making boost from as low as 1100rpm at 60-70kph. Also they don't like stock BA rods. I run a mates BF F6 that runs modifed GT45 on private driveway, mine just boosts and puts 1-2 car lengths on him before his spools up and it's all over as cant close the gap quick enough, I was only running soft 12psi tune no idea on actual power as tuned myself not dyno'd. Budget build by myself. He was running 600rwhp pump fuel tune by very respectable shop, lots of dollars. Even though he was making more power it wasn't suited as a street friendly setup. If he slipped the clutch to get it spooling quicker he had huge wheel spin issues. What your wanting I think you'll love the to4z. It's great performer and I have heard a few auto's running 9's with them. Make sure you have decent tyres, clutch and fuel setup, watch out on BA rods and cv's and don't bother with 4spd auto or 5spd manual it will destroy them.

Nurburgring anyone???????

Who wants a ute now if that's how and if the GTHO may look. Be few cheap T's once a GTHO gets released. F_ck I want one even settle for its little brother the GT. +1 anyone want a BA with 90% built tuff ass motor and setup up to support over 450rwkw. Ford have already smashed hsv with the GT and if the GTHO does come out it will be hunting euro elites. Can't think of a single gmh vehicle in it's class that is better then the equivalent Ford. Just need Ford US to build a hot Ford GT and Shelby Stang that actually handles. To take the sportscar and Coupe fight on.

Wagnman The GT does leave the gts for sh*t once it gets the power to the ground. Wheels mag said by time GT is doing 180 it's 80m ahead. That's a big gap. Also either wheels or Motor mag stated 0-180 difference of around 2 seconds between GT and GTS. Can double check it if wanted as have mag here. With those tiny rear rubber and all that power tells the story of the under 100k acceleration. I know my T when I had around that power with bigger nangkangs it was hopeless, had a STD ? VE SS lead me till 3rd gear all because the fine line between traction and not. I soon ditched those crap tyres for some Toyo Proxy 4's. Wasn't happening again. Something the GT needs but think Fords durability testing won't allow it due to weak points in the driveline. Mine you the Ford durability test level is very set high to worst case senario's. You know probably tested towing 2 ton on the hottest day up the steepest mountain with The most abuse possible. Good thing is at least we know there is strength in upping the tunes.

With iced on that. Mine lasted with very low 300 for quite some time but as soon as I replaced my dying turbo with a TO4z setup Tuning very soft, it still broke the rod. Pissy buggers they are, but even still the F6 ones are not anything special. I gone with Argo rods and had both side by side and the difference is well you Just couldn't expect the factory rods to hold what they can. Pending your power aim, you will need to decide if the F6 rods will do.

Search GT335 and you will find a blue GT, 11's tune only and 11.5's cat back. Also XFT has retuned his GS ute and run 11.7's also. Lots of potential from these beasts. So it defeintly is RWKW figures quoted now not fwkw as per the b series and earlier? Wonder what hsv are quoting. If FW well they don't really a any chance of arguing badge numbers now with the GS making more then there 325kw.

Arkayne With the turbo's anything making over 400rwkw with a good set of MT's on the strip will shorten the cv's life dramatically. Even less RWKW has smashed them. 2 choices for fix I know are the Albins cheaper and billets over 3x dearer. Anyway hope ford have beefed the GT ones up. A good tyre I use is Toyo Proxy 4's. When my T was making 300rwkw I bought a set of Koya Raceteh 19x9.5r with nangkang 265x30x19 fitted as package. the nangkangs where fantasic, if you wanted to win a burnout comp. My T would fry them through 1-3rd. The Toyo Proxy 4's I replaced them with have been fantastic with only wheel spin 1st occassionly little in 2nd pending road surface. However since I upgraded to a TO4z setup the Toyo's are struggling at 12psi and useless at 17psi. I buy my proxy 4's off a tyre dealer on eBay down Vic I think he was, costs me last time $720 pair delivered to QLD. Tyrepower wanted $560 a tyre. I have bought 2 sets off the guy, first set last 8000k with a inner wall blow out caused by Pedders setting to much camber and loading inner wall to much and small pot hole. Second set are still on car done 10 000k few drag Meets, not much left as still to much camber, with inner worn approx 60% more then outer. Once I find a shop that can dial in the suspension better, I get a lot more out of them, thinking like 20 000k plus. Tyrepower quoted me 25 000k from them. For the price I don't know if you will find better, if anyone can let me know as well as need better for my new power levels once my new engine goes in.

I know a child molester who got less Punishment then that. Also a rapest, African refugee who raped a friends daughter who was also underage. His solicitor apparently pleaded that he didn't know the girls age and that his client Fled his country and had a very bad life hence why he came here. So his had a bad life, just come to Australia and rape our children. Sorry but yer he apparently got of with a 2y good behavior bond. And the pollies want to destroy a persons life just because he got Caught playing his kick ass car stereo system too loud on 3 occassions Within a 3 year period. Wish they would do there jobs and punish the real criminals. Maybe be better to drink drive all the time as won't get your car crushed. Can just blame the alcohol for the speeding or hanging the rear out. Hopefully while intoxicated you accidentally crash into parliament house And miraclessly you collect all penny pinches with your huge hoon vehicle. Sleeper6t Not having ago out of you here but just to see a point. So has your sentence helped you reform and not speed or has it just angered you And taut you to be more cautious. Has it helped in anyway of teaching you anything about the risks of your actions, has it helped You to become a better safer driver. Or less respect for the pollies and there puppets. Now instead of being dealt with like you where, do you agree driver Ed and defensive driving would Have been more helpful then what you got. What do you feel would work. Is it really nessisary to suspend a persons license that long, I know I would get there point of don't hoon where it's easy to be caught Just 2 days of not driving my car. Will be interesting to hear your views on the punishment/Ed side As you have faced the punishment.

Bunna Agree Ford do set a high bar for durability and agree hsv would not pass a ford Durability test, hell there petrol flaps fall when your sneeze on them. And yes ford could push more out safely but it's there choice to be extra safe with there product. Also as I said earlier big premium quality rubber and a retune will extract a lot more of it's potential. At it's tune only potential of low 400rwkw the auto is not the safest option. Also have the cv's been upgraded, as we all know these will not handle excess of 400rwkw With grippy tyres on the strip?

It's not the rims that don't meet durability, it's the driveline smashing traction the bigger rubber gives. Even at it's very restricted tune it's power and torque is not very friendly and the fact All that torque is available so low does not help. Maybe Ford should bring out a light weight version running a Hollinger gearbox a a V8 supercar spec 9", gear boost up to 15-20psi. Ye ha GTHO p3 equivalent. Fast 4 Door production car in the world, not bad for a Taxi based family shopping cart. And last is t so bad in that company of cars & concisering no gm/gmh product made it into it shows that the GT is amonst the best. Not to mention didn't see a F6 or XR6T there either. The F6 is at it's best, the GT has alot more to offer once a stronger driveline is available.

Exactly SAG driving is a priveledge not a right. Yes it's a weapon. So why the he'll do they keep letting drunk drivers and uncompedant fools drive on Our roads, there the true killers. Not the guy who takes off from the green light when it Changes instead of brushing there hair and ok now I will drive off. Or people cruising playing loud music (that is a big killer. Heard some of those tunes) You wouldn't give a gun to a drunk or a uncompedant fool would you. Yeh I had a time down the cost where we have met up with group of 5 cars and where just taking, no loud music no skids, just as a church group would do and guess what, 2 bike cops come up saying someone complained so they have to move us on, WTF complained about what, what a joke. Anyway one of the guys says is it ok to hang out at the spit. Cop yeh all good, they high tail away. We leave cruise slowly to the spit, and here they where hiding in a dark corner at the entrance, we got out and had a good laugh at them. Obviously they where trying to trap us for doing something we had no intentions of doing. They stayed for a few minutes then sped off. Prob looking for next prey. Another time the cops decide to do a raid on all cars at the old broadwater carpark, my car was stock back then had nothing to worry about, I along with lots of others standing just watching how they where treating people. One guy parked nearby had his stereo running about same level as half vol of premium sound T , just easy listening non annoying music, The senior officer screams verbal abuse at the guy to turn it off. Felt like saying was that called for but bit my tongue or I would join some of the others who commented. I was to scared to video it as well. If you call that justice well sorry to say, your a Fu*ckhe%h. Yes there is some bad in every crowd but does not mean we all have to be stereotyped. In reality these revenue raising pollies should Be accountable for the lost lives of our young from not providing the education and not dealing with the real problem. Drunk drivers.

It still will work better as the air entering finds the easiest path, only so much can directly go through the rest finds the easier way which will be in the not so direct way. Keep in mind as long as the fins can radiate heat it will be helping even if it's not in direct air flow, just as long as it has room for the heat to dissipate away from it. If you wanted to go to the trouble you run a deflector strip say 50 down from bar support beam to help get air flow through top of cooler, also run shielding over top to stop the flow going over it. Maybe a option for me once I do up the boost before going with a plaz ic. Also I'm going to hook up a water spray setup as well, have pluming and nossles ready just need to find a suitable pump. The nossles I have are just a cheap anti drip irrigation item. Maybe the larger IC option was due partly to me??? As back when they started doing the first kits as I asked them if it would suit my power application and they said It maybe better to try the larger GT Series one and if it didn't fit I could return it. I already had plaz piping so it was just a cooler I purchased. I fitted it and told them about it. Maybe they decided to offer it as a upgrade kit because of my correspondence with them. Yeh those FG's go hard with the HDI kit, just look at that RDP car that ran the 1st 10 with not much else done.

Sorry just re measured core and your right. Do they spec this size in the BA-BF kits? Bought mine like near 2 year ago and the Xr one was a smaller Cooler and not as good as the GT series one I optioned up to. If that's what they are including now, it's a good option. I trimmed my chassis rails at front edge as the in/out interfered and You can't fit undertray on if you mount it down lower. Did not affect and chassis integrity as didn't remove the spot welds Holding rail together. If you want I can post you picture if metal moved, as easy to get to as Have car apart as building new engine.

What happens if you sell car or transfer ownership to someone else? Say you been done twice, smart move would be to either sell or deregister Pride and joy and buy a sh*tter until the 5 year period and once That passes get another decent car????? What if your in a friends car, the 3rd time, do they crush his car or Your car even though your car has been behaving itself sitting in garage Awaiting the 5y sentence to pass. If it stays with the vehicle what happens when you sell it and new owner Gets caught on vehicles 3rd offense. What if you own 2 cars and been done once in each and 3rd time Your in the sh*tbox daily driver, surely they won't crush both? What if your car is actually registered in partners name and you don't Have a car registered in your name? Need to find the loop holes and let everyone know.

Don't know how the dot laws are down Vic but pretty sure here In QLD it's ok. I know that if you had a aircleaner protruding from bonnet old school Carb v8 it was illegal, because of emissions as carbs get a fuel vapor Above carb which could filter through to the atmosphere. Have heard some talk that may be able to get defected due to Noise??? Anyway hope it's all ok as havnt made my airbox as yet. John, good to see you trying, do suggest you seal it up as you want to try to have it pressurize as much as it can from the Entering frontal air, not escaping out the top. Becareful with the crossovers as lots have flakes the paint Internally and destroyed turbos. If it has the paint internally, either remove the paint or risk turbo damage. Hard to believe you are getting same intake temps to your friend, are you talking Sitting idling. Or after some hard throttle runs? I know my BA with plaz airbox stand cooler, struggled after burnout to Stage, felt so dead on launch when I did show off skids compared to quick turn Of tyres 1st gear. Once I fitted my HDI it solved the oem ic's problem. I went with the HDI GT series 600x300x75 rather then the b series Xr kit As was told the this particular GT series cooler was a better option By the for my power. Since buying it I have up graded to a TO4z setup but only running mild 12psi, the Cooler still doing it's job. It may struggle once I put new engine in and up the boost. If it does it will go and a plaz ic will take it's place. I find the HDI to be a ecellent IC for it's dollar so your choice to Go with one should make you happy when you do. You want to keep up with your mates FG, you'll need lots of dollars or Switch his tune to valet if he has one. Lol

Probably, its more money in there pocket. You better not get caught again, car may be crushed. How long does the warning stand, Eg say you get get done and the third time was five years from Date of first offense. Or is it if caught 3 times within a specified time frame. Surely it can't be for a life time?

Also pending your reaction times you maybe have to experiment with The Christmas tree (drag lights) Try launching at 2nd last yellow as by time your brain tells your foot To lift and the clutch engages and car finally starts to move it's green. Here at willowbank you aim for a 0.400 reaction time, any quicker and You red light, if a lot slower you will be left sitting. I was getting with my T anywhere between .6 to .8 with the rare Bad launch. That's probably around the average for most, except the pro's doing .4 to .5's. I was launching on the last yellow, but back when I first tried I found Myself sitting at the lights, I went up to the guy I ran and said what's The go you left way before me and he explain it all to me. Just in that 1/2sec launch saw him get approx 2 car head start, very Hard to win from there.

Practice on old back road will be totally different to on the strip but will help you get a feel of what you need to do. May only be 1500 on street before it breaks out in wheel spin but on track at those Revs it will stall. If using regular street rubber you should be careful dropping pressure as they are Designed to run at a certain pressure, effects in doing so could lead to Steel belt damage, car getting unstable under brakes. I have experimented with lowering slightly max 5psi to raising 5 psi And found the street tyres to bite harder with more pressure. Think about low pressure, it will cause the tyre to get out of shape And unless it's designed to ripple the sidewalls it will be doing damage. A drag tyre is designed to ripple it's sidewalls and make full contact with The track surface. A street tyre with low pressure will concave it's tread & it will have a smaller percentage of it's contact patch making contact meaning less traction. If you run at recommended pressure it will hold it's shape and plant it's Tread. As I mentioned I have tried at 5psi more and it did work but don't recommend Doing so as you don't want to have them over pressured in a high load Situation. Maybe some street tyres may respond differently but if you choose to To run other than recommended pressure becareful, at least contact Your tyre manufacturer and find out what he recommends. Want a grippy tyre that works with low pressure buy street drag tyres Or slicks. Be prepared to break drive shafts and destroy standard clutches. If your car is stock you will find if you do drop the clutch it's torque restriction may Cause it to bog down where as driving of the line will give a better result. Another thing don't bother with a big skid as all you will do is raise your ic temps if it is Standard ic as well street tyres don't like to much heat. A good option is to get some dry ice and put in air box Pre filter. Helps especially on your followering run, also open your bonnet while lining up to get rid Of excessive engine bay heat, make sure you close it for your run Doh. Have over half tank fuel to prevent fuel surge it you don't have a surge tank set up. Take jack, spare and any other loose object out. Pending your suspension set up you may also have to experiment launching it, Eg A everyday street 351w Auto TD Cortina I built over 5y ago, to get it to hook up on the street I had to jab the throttle to half way so the rear squatted get off it Then full nail it, I was putting 2 plus car lengths on wrx's 1st gear not bad for Stock on dedicated LPG. On the track could just nail it. So many variables with every car, even more so once you start changing parts.