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Don't know if aanyone mentioned this, but if you have hoses from rocker (not rocket) cover And if they don't have the oneway valve the boost pressure will pressurise the crankcase. With boosted cars the only time you see vacuum is off throttle. You need to check your hoses for correct hook up. If it's right and you are still getting excess pressure, then I would say a leak down will confirm either ring or piston problem.

hiddeous It's nit a GTF6 fuel tank, it's better as it's mayd bi Probably Wist, it is mega shoecar stuff and al, at the rate it fils from the XT (not weak as f6) supersonuc pump the 2 boshe pumps get even more presser. This truely is shoecar stuff, won't get bitter. No tist runs and as I very fuzzy, even if you buy it you can't use it as you ned to be super dooper cooly like me. It's got tis ability to know if you are a car nut lik me En wood not put it on f6 as be overkill, really only good for XT

Oh my god I was looking at that, I asked the question, and got babble. Side mount 3 bolt, it doesn't look like the standard process west setup, I even had a quick look at PW site incase it's a new setup he is doing? Nope didn't see any. Shows how careful you have to be dealing on eBay with tools like this around. So is he wrecking it out now? Wonder how much on the ic? Not

If really worried, you can have it tuned with wife tune (like valet tune) and just reflash your tune in when you drive it. You will need to do it with xcal, sniper or other tuner. Should not have hassle with warranty, I would just discuss I with whatever dealer you choose first. You could set traction to max, rpm to 3500 that way if she did put foot into it to pass in the wet it would be a lot safer. The fact that they have a open diff will also mean they are a lot safer. Also choice of tyre will help alot to, don't put big cheap tyres on like nangkangs, it will be worst then factory rubber. The falcon is one of the safest Australian cars you can buy with Ancap 5 star rating. She will love it

As usual ford get screwed for crossing a silly white line and whingecup can shunt cars out of the way and it's ok?????? And how was that first safety car crap, wouldn't it mean if both whingecup and frosty joined where they did, they should if been a lap down?????? And the commentators oh he crossed the big bad white line over and over but when whingecup shunted bargs they mentioned it once then shut up very quickly. Looks like another year ford have to win against gmh and the officials. Just love how gmh have to buy everything to try to win. Only way they can get number 1 on there cars. Sorry guys just my rant. Was good watching the tussle in the end even though there wasn't a ford in sight.

We can only guess to the future of what ford has planned. Xr09 Having 2 diffs will divide the torque over the 2 so they won't see the load they do on one diff. I don't know how many diffs have failed but mine has had a very hard life with plenty of power put through it and it is still in good condition. They are a very good diff for what there design was for, I have not heard of any breaking with standard power and very few in big power applications. The fact that there is so many 400rwkw cars and we don't hear to many diffs failing would suggest they are not as bad as you may feel. However cv's are a problem, Same again won't have the load as distribuated over 4 driven axles. As for cost for awd, we already have the Territory and it would not cost as much to engineer it for the falcon as from doing it from scratch. They will be able to use alot of the development from the territory in the falcon. remember the Nizpro Territory, ran high 11's with 450kw Now imagine with less weight of a Falcon. Quite sure whatever Ford have planned it will be a step in the right direction as doubt they would want to go backwards or stay stagnet. Alot of guys pushing over 400rwkw know how bad the Falcon is at putting power down on street rubber. It is so bad in the wet that even just trying to take off from a set of lights as lightly as possible still turns the tyres. Maybe it was worse in my car as it was making boost from as low as 1100rpm. I feel awd would help substantially, as well stability could be controlled even better with 4 driven axles as the they could be controlled individually to get power to the corner that needs it the most. The new tech being applied is not like the old landcruiser setups. They are vastly improved. As you state not as Eco, that's probably the most concern of awd due to the extra weight and double the driven wheels. Maybe they will design it as ecu controlled to engage only when required?

Cranny F1 rear wheel drive only but if you look at a f1 car they have huge rear rubber, can't fit tyres that big in the guards of a falcon, also they have a very effective rear wing that creates huge downforce. Ferrari mid engined better weight transfer to rear also can fit huge rubber and are aero designed to give good downforce. Most of your high end euro run big dollar suspension as well tyres like continantals which cost $1000 au plus each not to mention are a lot lighter then a Falcon. A supercar eg Lambo, Ferrari etc are designed with least weight possible so awd does not work with them as it will increase frontal weight that they don't require Concidering they can generate all the traction they need due to tyre size, weight transfer, aero and not to mention big dollar suspension set ups. V8 supercars are rwd and live axle to keep costs down. Can you remember the old Sierra's and Gidzilla Skylines, no rear wheel drive car could touch them. That included the m3's. I used to own a TD Cortina I built with a 351w and in the dry it was pretty quick and cornered better than a falcon. I had a play with a R33 GTR in the wet and straight line I could nearly stay with him but as soon as we hit corners I was left looking snail slow. Same car in the dry a lot quicker then him straight line and marginally slower through corners. Awd works in heavy sedans that can't fit 330 plus wide rubber and huge wings for downforce. Do you watch top gear, did you see the merc v's m5, they where nuts, lots of oversteer and absolutely frying the tyres with smoke bellowing from the rear guards.

Cranny oh not this again F1 rear wheel drive only but if you look at a f1 car they have huge rear rubber, can't fit tyres that big in the guards of a falcon, also they have a very effective rear wing that creates huge downforce. Ferrari mid engined better weight transfer to rear also can fit huge rubber and are aero designed to give good downforce. Most of your high end euro run big dollar suspension as well tyres like continantals which cost $1000 au plus each not to mention are a lot lighter then a Falcon. A supercar eg lambo

Just getting thoughs here. you know how ford has a few cars over in Swiss land and 1 rumoured as a GTHO, what better place to test for power down in slippery snowy Icey conditions? Ford know they have a winner with the new coyote, they know the 2 wheel drive platform is At it's limit for power down and durability, they know a lot of euro companies are developing awd systems with the front axle powered by petrol or electric. That is the future and to be moving ahead, is to start developing a awd platform. Once they have developed it they can easily offer cheaper front or rear wheel drive versions As it's only a mater of taking the drive away from either end. With the likes of say a GTHO or equivalent they may start to look at lightening, billet aluminium suspensions, carbon fibre panels and body kits etc. Now that would be orsm, same weight as we are running now or lighter with awd and that little coyote monster. Better start saving for the 2012-2015 GTHO Falcon FH-S (Ford Henry-Special) Just back on the Herrod 8 If I was them and there was problems with track conditions or humidity I would not allow Motor Magazine publish times until proper testing was done. Like come on those times are real pathetic for that power and considering it's running 285's rear and not sure think it had suspension done also and yet still not able to run better times then standard. My last run in my BA before the rod broke, I was running smaller tyres, near same humidity, had fuel surge in 3rd, got off it slowly back into it in 4th and still went 12.9 at 116mph, also was a slow 60ft of 2.4 due to traction and it being a manual. Also ran it with 2/3 tank of fuel, full street trim with spare, jack and my heavy 112kg weight. Considering XFT and another have both done sub 12's on tune only, Herrod looks bad. If I was them and want to promote the product I would be running it at every meet so they can show it's capability, and rectify the bad exposure it's already copped. No one is going to pay $15g plus for a car to go slower.

They used a drag strip and you can see it in one of the pictures and they say It lights the tyres in first even on the strip. Not bad though a extra 15-20g and you can got slower. Something wrong there.

Serious This guy needs help, I know mentally handicap people that are not that Stupid, even my 7yo knows better. Maybe someone needs to call the physo ward and let them know where He is.

Why go through all that hassle if only aiming at 450-500rwkw, those power figures can be had from running a good setup? Be easier to run nos on the street and get better results safer. I was looking at running methanol years ago for a Stroker Windsor in a XY GT Rep I had, and learnt it wasn't worth the hassle, didn't know about all the toxic problems except that it would chew holes in anything that wasn't compatable, eg hoses & seals. And the fact I would need to double up on my full Fuel system, the hassle of flushing it to run pump etc. If you want to run it, just do a stand alone methanol injection setup that only triggers with WOT to give you that extra power. You could run more boost and timing by doing so for more power. Still not legal and still dangerous, and you would need a tuner who knows what they are doing to get it right. A safer option is to run water injection, nor anywhere effective as Methanol but it will allow you to run a little more boost and timing as well you could set it up to run a water spray for intercooler at same time. It's legal and safe as well easier to tune. I have never run Methanol or a water injection setup, im only relaying what I have heard over the years. I may be incorrect so best talk with a expert on this.

Sorry if Iam wrong, are they running a liquid to air under the blower Dags? Didn't think they where from what I had heard somewhere. Was thinking surely they would have one but the person who told me must of assumed they didn't have one as not visible. Wonder what efficiency can be had from them before the intake temps can't be controlled. Heard of a few US GT's getting 1000rwhp plus from the under blower liquid to air, obviously not sure if they where factory coolers or better aftermarket units.

Playing with fire there. You do know why it's illegal? It's because it burns clear, you can't tell if it's alight. Eg car stalls so you open bonnet, woof your on fire rolling around on the ground, everyone else is driving past laughing as you look like you are having some sort of elliptic fit. Also you just can't change between methanol and say ultimate. Not sure on E85 weather it has same properties. With Methanol you will need huge injectors, make sure all fuel lines are compatable as well fuel pumps and regulator. Also don't know how factory cats or sensors would cope. There's alot in it and I would not try it unless you are a expert or have very good knowledge of running it. Then on top of that where you going to keep the drum, bugger if I would have it in my shed.

No keep the price but stronger driveline, better suspension, bigger rubber, more boost, rid 300kg, improve chassis. 1200nm and 450rwkw ye ha. GTHO, FPV 450KR, GT450KR, FPV Taxi That last one be good imagine down the pub, should of seen that taxi fry the HSV GTS or better still the Ferrari. Price is good because it will cost just as much to make the F6 as strong, and then the GT will still make the power easier due to it's capacity. Everyone needs to remember these GT & GS's have not even got intercoolers as yet.

*Beep* You have not looked hard enough. XFT GS ute tune only 11.7 Blue GT sedan 11.7 tune only, then. cat back 11.5 There's vids on you tube for the GT Pretty good as runs a few tuff v8's you see him loose on the start and then just drives around them.

Spot on Hiddeous Also I think there is a delay on off throttle as the boost stops the butterfly from closing if it's at 100%. Something I have heard not tried so don't know how accurate that is. So Cranny you are finally realizing how good these Coyote's really are. Though you said you where buying a F6??????? I was trying to tell you how easy these things can make power and how much cheaper to do so then a i6 as well not to mention reliably. As said many times it's the strict driveline durability standard Ford have that govern it's of the floor power, not to mention we will be so close to the pollies crying another supercar scare. Also as mentioned before all performance fords and maybe even the taxis have torque limiters. It's the amount of torque that lifts a vehicle off the line, the hp takes over to accelerate it once it has momentum. That's why the F6 & GT are near identical up to say 100-120k and then the GT starts showing it's hp. It's the torque and traction limiters holding these cars back. they are set for safe levels of traction for the tyres, driveline and chassis can handle. Even though it all looks pretty simple to get power from these, and people have, it's the weak areas that will fail, you replace that part and it's the next weakest part that will fail. If Ford address all aspects of the durability there would be a huge price increase. We all know when you build bit power it costs lots of money. The good thing is though, this time around Ford have provided a engine with huge reserves not like the BA XR6 Turbo. Cranny Good to see you have realized and I'm happy you have decided to get a GS or a GT instead of a F6. Just hope you actually do though. This Coyote engine needs a better chassis driveline.

I was wondering what to do with my xbox, now I know, just build one of these so I could fry it. What you reckon, about a BBQ set up, wouldn't take long to cook the snags and mates would be shocked when you say I'll just get the garden blower to crank the Barbie up, get some good laughter from it. Only prob wouldn't get to sink a few cold ones waiting for the snags to be done. The not only be able to smell the BBQ but hear it. Caterpillar Turbine BBQ???

Without knowing what can you are running just find something smaller diameter that will slide inside your can and 1/2 - 3/4 it's height. Now with the insert and your mesh put in one end and fold edge over and insert it. Make sure you run the inlet through the mesh via hole big enough to fit hose/pipe through it. Just try some auto shops to see if they can order in some filter mesh or try a filtration shop. You will be able to buy it by the sheet. Also I would not run steel wool as in the Steelo type with the very fine wire. You will get small metal particles getting sucked into turbo/engine. If using the metal wire scrubber, make sure it's the thick wire type. It's like the same principle as the old Ford oil caps that have the breather holes on the under side. If you look inside them you will see what I mean. Pretty hard to find one now days. If not going to run a internal outlet down to bottom half, fill canister full with these scrubbers, it may still get small amounts of oil into engine as the oil will be near the outlet. If you run a internal hose pipe approx 2" from bottom it will keep the oil away from the cannister outlet at top. You would only need to fill with the scrubbers till it's a few inch's above it's outlet or if you want fill to the top as won't hurt, actually it would filter it even better as the oil mist will have to go through more, and the more contact the oily mist has the more the oil will be separated from the air. Here try this link for pictures Won't matter if it's stainless, brass or steel, def not plastic lol http://www.stainlesssteelscrubber.net/

Check out this guys, how crazy. He gives good description of set up in ad and I havnt checked it but has a website with more on it. eBay listing is 170599097459 When seen it thought WTF is it for real.

All good Just make sure crossover valve is working correctly Or boost will cause engine to pressurize. Also make sure canister has some sort of air oil seperator. You can use either baffles, have the hoses from rocker enter can, internal make sure it goes down to at least 1/2 it's depth through a hole in fine mesh baffle. You will need to have this mesh baffle supported horizontal above end of inlet. The fitting to crossover draws vacuum from the top of can. This way any oil is kept below the mesh baffle. Another slightly easier way would be to half fill canister with stainless wire dish scrubber, this will help seperate the oil from the air but not as good as the fine mesh baffle. The fine mesh will need to be able to flow air through it but not oil. If you just run them as are nothing inside, it will help reduce the amount of oil entering your intake but Will still draw a oily vapor. Oil enterering your combustion chamber can cause detonation, so best to remove as much oil as possible from entering the combustion chambers. The best way to do it is to not run a return to your intake and vent it to atmosphere, problem though is it's illegal to do so due to pollution laws. If you are getting excessive amounts of oil, it maybe blow by, fitting a catch can won't be a fix but will reduce the amount of oil entering intake. Have leak down test performed. Sometimes oil control rings don't seat against bore properly, you can help them bed in by driving up a mountain range using tall gears as it loads up cylinder pressures forcing rings hard to bore. Another thing maybe due to the high compression you are running being a na engine, and the lower tension spec rings it will be causing excess blow by. That is assuming factory na rings have less tension then turbo rings. Good luck, hope you sort it.

T56 goes straight in, use the t56 crossmember, wire the reverse lockout to your brake switch and all is done. Clutch is the same, tailshaft is the same. Guy on here tells me xou can flash a BF11 tune into PCM if you want. I havnt done mine as not sure how I go about it as yet. But hooking lockout to the brake switch works fine, I have no issues with car when driving in 6th gear. Did you see the T56 last week on eBay, it went for $700 something, what a piss off, mine cost me $5000 from Mel, mine you it's a reco blueprinted box. Good luck with your finding a t56. Don't bother putting a t5 back in it.

Kyle you will find that the GT has the power, it's just the fact the both your cars are accelerating to there max traction, the GT is torque limited to try to contain the excessive torque from breaking something. Your ute is also torque limited, how do you think both these cars hold a flat wide torque curve. Now where they start to differ is when the hp starts to propel the car. It's torque that gets you going but horsepower to keep you going. A car that has more torque will leave the line harder but the car that has more hp will have the legs. Now with both the F6 & GT being near identical in torque is the reason why you are close, and once the Hp difference comes in then it's the GT's advantage. The tuned GT's you are seeing are more likely to have there Torque limiters raised or switched off, and are running better tyres & tune only high 11's. This opens up the potenial of the magic coyote engine. And just believe me as already been through this in the F6vsGT thread, the coyote engine is capable of handling huge power in STD form. I didn't say this but see if you can get the guy with the GT to run you on private highway from 100k and up. Be prepared to be upset. If you do let us know how it was. Give you a hint for next time out. Do short burnout, don't do any show off skids as doing so will raise your cooler temps badly And street tyres don't like to much heat anyway. That should help you get your times down if not already doing it. Also don't bother letting air out of your street tyres as all it will do is distort your tyre and make it unsafe at the top end. Street tyres are designed to run at set pressure, any thing out side there recommended pressure can cause damage to the steel belts. Drag tyres are designed to distort and plant as much contact as possible. Street tyres will concave it's tread meaning less contact. My brothers FG sedan ran in full showroom trim, spare, jack, log book, etc Full air pressure in tyres.

Kyle173 Come on what going on, brothers stock FG xr6t auto sedan Ran consistent 13.1 @ 108mph. Surely yours being a F6 and a ute it should run quicker then that. Thought I read somewhere you had exhaust mods to. Interesting to see a break down of the time slips.

No havnt tried to flash a BA2 file in, wasn't aware I could. I only have the racer pro tune package. It would be very appreciated if you could PM and explain what I need to do to do it. This is first computer car I've owned and decided to tune myself, built many v8 clevo's and windsors as well crossflow 6's and VW engines and all have been carby. Basically I got start off tune from BPR as well the racer pro package, loaded it up and sorted the tune from there. Injector setting where way off rich as hell, as wasn't sure on spec of the nizpro Injectors and Matt just took a guess at it, Danny ( Headsex) gave me a decent setting to try and I work from there, since changed to siemen inj and been experimenting with boost and fuel tables, spark has been good so have not started to work ignition tables as yet. That's about my knowledge on tuning these things. Back on subject of TO4z probably should point out that a large frame turbo won't be as affected with drivability in a high stall auto. In manual it's very hard to get them going, so easy to light the tyres, bog down or fry the clutch. As well rolling accel if you are low in rpm in gear and lag hurts, if you pump the clutch you have massive wheel spin and if you try fanning the clutch your most likely to fry it. That's where the TO4z is so much better.