01txr

Looked at the msd unit. Recommends to mount away from engine bay heat. As well the power to pump wires need to be within 1 foot from unit. This will be a problem if running the pump at the pw surge tank. Excellent bit of gear though.

I'm staying with surge mounted at front. The process west unit I have. But if I find it not to be adequate to supply I will go with a larger one at the rear. I already run a oddesay battery in the boot with power cable running up to the starter. I would be running power straight from there to pump via relay and booster. No running extra wires from rear to front. Just have to read up on that msd pump voltage booster to see if it's safe to mount on firewall or if I would have to run it under dash. Meaning running cables in and back out of cabin. Pump will be rubber mounted as per the pw kit. But I'm also going to run rubber mounts between surge tank and chassis. I don't think the pump will be to annoying but then again I have not run a 044 before. I run 4" custom dump into xforce single 3.5" system. Plazmaman plenum , 4" intake into to4z. Will be making a custom 4" exhaust later on after the engine build is complete as well after cv's are done. I'm sure my induction noise will drown out the 044. Just be the cruising and idling that may concern me if it's heard. I like how nice and quite my car is at cruise and idle and are over noisy pumps. Didn't mind the old Holley blues back on my old Henry v8's but now days not interested.

Just found a test performed on the 044 at different volts and pressures. http://www.lxforums.com/board/f88/bosch-044-fuel-pump-flow-158349/ What a huge differance. Example the 60psi (closest to what our cars run at 58psi) 13 volts. = 657 lb/hr 18.75 volts. = 921 lb/hr Take into account at recommended minium of 12v they support 700hp What will they support at 18.75v (921 lb/hr) Looking good to just run a single pump now as turborana suggested.

Turborana more on the pierburg pump. Comparing it with the 044 are you saying its a quiter pump. Can you eloborate a bit more, is it a different design pump Which makes it quiter. Could you give me a model number Iso I can look into it. I have heard around the place that they are a good pump. On the higher volt supply circuit I would use a 10 psi pressure switch to earth terminal on relay then power factory fuel pump pin/wire to trigger the relay. . Run power from battery to fuse then to relay. Power from relay to a voltage booster. Then to pump. For the 12v continious supply I will link the factory pump pin/wire to 2nd relay with ground to chassis. link 12v power from other relay. Power straight to pump for 12v continuous supply. By using the relays it will isolate the Ecu seeing more voltage. By using the factory pump power supply for the trigger will keep it safe with the fuel shut off via Ecu control if involved in accident. How's that sound or is there a better way. What voltage booster do you recommend to use. Do I have to mount it in cabin or will it be ok in engine bay. Had a quick glance at the the options for fuel pump control in the tune software and didn't notice anything useful as yet. I doubt there is anything in there to use unless three is a option for 2nd pump. Then I would need to find what pin/wire is assigned. Wouldn't it be nice if ford has a multi pump option in there. (can only dream) Noticed Jegs in the US sell a fuel controller for multiply pumps but it's over $300. It would be great but can't really justify spending that when there are so many cheaper ways of getting similar results.

Here's the Holley pump I think I may go with instead of the twin 044's. eBay 300650123857 1400hp rated. I'll look at my sct racer pro software today to see if I can find a option. Be good if it can. Just have to find out what pin to use or wire to tap into. It will probably only have control option for in tank pump which won't help the secondary pump control. Probably just go with the micro switch on the throttle peddle. It will be the easiest way to do it. But still be good to have it kick in at the precise moment as the primary pump starts to drop pressure.

I'm also going to get a eboost 2 maybe I can control it with it???? Doing it to revs probably won't be good as its the load and boost that will require the second pump to feed. Or might just forget trying to run pressure sensor switches and just rig a switch on the throttle pedal. Running plx wideband o2 gauge that has adjustable warnings and peak holds. able to tell if 2nd pump is not activating by its reading. Turborana what power are the Pittsburg pumps good for at 20volts. How reliable are they running at 20v. Just running 98 fuel. May go to e85 when and if I can buy it locally. Also been thinking on running the billet Holley inline twin pump unit (2 pumps in the one billet housing). It has 2 power feeds so can run one continuously with the other as needed. Think there is 3 versions one rated at 1000hp then 1500hp and 2000hp. They also look fantasic.

Ok just need to work out best way to setup twin Bosch 044's. Is the factory pump regulated by the Ecu or does it run at full voltage Continuously. I'm not wanting to run both 044 pumps continuously as don't want high Recirculating happening while driving sedately or idling. As well why waste the life of the pump while it's not required. Now if the factory Ecu does control the in tank pump well I can tap into It's power feed as my signal for the 044's and all is good. (fingers crossed). If it does not control the in tank pump then I need to look else where. Can I use any of the factory boost, map sensors for a trigger wire. Other then that I need to find a variable pressure switch that I can Set to control the second pump either by boost or fuel pressure. Eg set it at 55-57psi to switch 2nd pump on. Switch off at 57psi. Or boost sensor to activate 2nd pump at 10-12psi If anyone has done a setup in either way as above please reply. Interested in what was used as well cost and where to get required bits. Aother option is if I was to run a single large pump I still would Like to control pump flow. I have currently got the process west surge tank and worried on weather It's capacity is sufficient to feed twin 044's. If anyone can comfirm the capacity to be adequate please do so. Keep in mind I will be wanting to do some circuit laps from time to time not just drag runs. Fuel system required to support To4z custom setup, full port head.

I've seen a twin 2.5" exhaust for ba - bf's and v8 commies sold at autobarn. They have magnum on the mufflers but don't know if they are made by magnaflow. Maybe what yours are unless it does have magnaflow stamped on it. Also suggest you hurry with a boost gauge as when I started to au with my BA XR it had 275rwkw ran 12psi running just Nizpro injectors, walbro fuel pump,valve springs and center muffler removed. 11.5 to 1 afrs. I upgraded to the 3.5" xforce exhaust and boost went to 16psi and cold mornings was over boosting to 21psi. Not real safe on standard rods. The fact yours will have standard injectors, fuel pump and valve springs I would be very concerned. I also was victim of the clogged turbo feed filter at 90 000k but noticed it was feeling a bit laggy And checked filter. Turbo lasted another 36 000k before getting noisy.

It's probably causing the misfire in cooler climate as your boost will be more aggressive and I think you said you are still running standard valve springs. Probably find your springs are starting to fail and your number one cylinder is the worst affected. If you have done the springs, then I would be thinking your number 1 coil pack is a bit low on power out put. Or as said could be a doggy spark plug or maybe not gapped correctly. You may only get the miss at cooler temps. Go for a early morning run to recheck if it does it again. If it does cheapest option is get a new plug and at same time switch coil pack 1 with coil pack 2. Retest. If its fixed it then you know coil is ok and plug was cause, if number 2 shows fault then replace coil. If number 1 continues to show fault then I'd be checking valve spring pressures.

Did he flip the whole spring or just the 3rd leaf. Just curious as person I know wants to lower his but he has said he heard it causes some squeaking sounds which I think would be the extruded circular pads. I said for him to just give it a try and if it does start to squeak then to grind down the circular pads so the friction won't be concentrated on it. And viewing it anyway if you flip the 3rd leaf the circular pads would only contact if carrying a load. Other option would be to get a second bottom leaf from another set and swap it out for the 3rd leaf. May have to find some new leaf clamps to do it safely. Also suggestion to you guys who want it scraping the center muffler but want to be able to raise it to carry a load. Expensive no labour is fit airbags. Cheap is fit the lowest spring available but have spring saddles made with multiple holes so you can adjust it to suit use. Also do same with front pivot so pinion angle can be corrected.

Lowering blocks act like a lever worsening axle tramp as it causes the leaf to Bind up making the spring look like a s shape under heavy load (acceleration). I learned of this years a go from a suspension seminar I attended. Couldn't believe it was doing it till my friend viewed it when I wot beside him. He stated the slightly exaggerated sketch shown to us was no exaggeration. The other issue is that the pinion also raises which all adds up to the cv problem issue as well axle tramp. There is one way of stopping the spring from doing it which is by fitting traction rods eg Caltrac. You may even be able to dial in enough preload with the traction rods to help correct the tailshaft geometry. Your best off having the springs reset then taking the cheap option of fitting blocks. Just wondering what affect do you get if you reverse one of the leaf spings. Something guys use to do years ago as well. Has anyone tried it. If so how much lower did it make it.

Best off finding how long the crack is, use Kero. It will leave a wet line where crack is. Then get a small drill bit, drill at end of crack. Keep a vacum near so you catch as much swarf as possible. Grease on drill bit helps catch the swarf as well. Once done get a tap to suit, tap a thread into it. Screw a bolt into it, grind head off for flush finish. That will stop the crack from growing. Then grind a small groove into crack, fill with devcon or a high quality Metal bond compound. Or get welded. As for the tread in oil gallery you could have it drilled and tapped for larger fitting and use a reducer fitting. A lot of mucking around but cheaper then replacing.

Only just noticed this and it only has 1 hr to go. Becareful bidding as the guy is trying to charge $200 postage even if the airpod intake is pickup. User name is play2222. Item is air intake suit f6 XR XRturbo. Looks like one uncautious buyer has made a bid. Can't believe people like this.

Great one howsee, these 5.0sc have me very jealous as they are already strong enough to handle good power and so easy to get power out of. With it's liniar power delivery the f6 with same power would be very hard pressed on a tight cornered hill climb to keep with a 5.0sc I have had a bit of a play with a manual v8 XR against my big powered turbo XR and the out of corner is very hard to match as if I try I just get huge wheel spin. Ease the power on is not a option either as the v8 will leave you sitting. I would catch him hand over foot but then another corner and it all starts over again. Maybe different if I got to start in front though as he was holding me up into the corners. Which also is only prob due to my big brakes advantage. Now v8 with blower would be even harder to beat. Mine you on the open road the v8 XR was woe. full.

Jonno The sales figures are that way because GMH have a way better sales and advertising department. As well while there clocking up wins it also gives the impression that the commodores are better. Even if it is the ex top ford team and they buy the ex champion and have more cars competing. The truth behind all there bullsh*t is the F6 sh*ts on the gts and the gt335 even more. I think it was wheels where they stated the f6 by 180k had put 25m on the gts and the GT335 80m. Wholely f#%k 80m's that's embarrassing. Not to mention the GT is cheaper then the gts and it's got a hi tec supercharged engine apposed to the old pushrod NA junk in the commodore. As well even the NA 5.0 out powers the larger ss engine and probably the gts. I love frying my Tyres pulling away from every gts that has tried and mines only a BA xr6t

Would not matter if ford released a gtho as they would not be able to compete. Was there even a add shown with a ford on it. Oh wait yes there was the biggest idiot or whatever it was where you could win one. What fords are not good enough to sell so they just going to give them away. Maybe v8 supercar would't allow ford to advertise during the race or GMH booked out air time so ford couldn't advertise. Pretty pathetic Ford should of kept 888

Siemen injectors are great. I could get my manual down to 400rpm idling as smooth as silk. Mine you at that rpm it was even hard to tell it was running at all and would be to easy to stall. I set idle at 600. Was running 60lb TO4z setup, plenum, xforce exhaust etc At 17psi it would fry 265x30x19 Toyo proxy 4's hard at 100k 3rd gear. Yet return 8.8lt per 100k. (obvious idling down highway). Very happy with injectors. If the tuner can't get them to idle smooth, go somewhere else.

Advantage to GTR with it's awd on a dusty old air strip. But still very impressive

Boost69 not trying to be rude but How can you say it's a rod. Have you inspected the engine in person? Also the rods in the 5.0sc are not your every day run of the mill Cast plastic i6 rods. And the fact that it is stock is even more reason to doubt your theory of a rod issue. Don't think any BA rods had even broke on stock untuned engine. As well a supercharged engine doesn't put as much instant stress on the rods as what a turbo engine does. As said earlier let's wait for cranny to tell us the verdict. My theory is that there wasn't a problem at all as I'm quite sure we would of been informed by now of how this GT engine is gone. Some advise to cranny would be to investigate things a bit better before making a statement that is far from the truth and being to embarrassed to own up and admit you where wrong about the engine being gone. This is my theory and If I'm wrong on my theory tell me and I will apologize. What really pisses me is that how many people have read this and decided not to buy a GT now because of the engine already gone in the GT as claimed by cranny. As well the rumors that spread from it. If there is a problem let us all know if it's all good or been sorted let everyone know. And we are all waiting for the verdict.......

Think you run micro switches at gear lever on manuals but not sure about autos.

Must of. Probably feels bad about saying engines gone when it was probably something very minor. If anything at all. Come in cranny we want to know what was wrong.

I have the pedders extreme and have found them to be fantasic. Great turn in, ride quality is great. Run a evo 9 through a few sharp 2nd gear corners and into a long 3rd gear down hill sweeping corner and mine you I defiantly had the straight line on him, he had slight edge in the tight bends, the long sweeper it was very even, was getting slight understeer but very controllerable and I was on the inside. Only gripe I have is I feel they don't know how to set the suspension. Car was tracking badly when they first fitted them, scrubbing inners on rear. Took it back and they have got it better but still not right. Will take it elsewhere once I get it back on the road. Also found it to get some bad rebound rear over bumps, caused by bump stops. Being a expert suspension business you would think they would know it would hit the bump stops. Removed 2 ribs off the bump stops and now a lot better. Always wanted the tiens but with the edfc. I'm impressed with the pedders and so are alot of my friends, the tiens would have the alot better for me to pay the extra and change.

If it's to expensive to sell with the show fitted gear, why not do what they are doing but give the customer the option to upgrade to what he chooses to spend. I'm shocked and very disappointed by what ford/fpv have done. After reading the article in Motor mag It is such a let down.

Can't you just use the speaker signal wires that go to the factory amp into a after market amp that has the high voltage speaker inputs.

Thought asl did one already but not too sure on the touch screen capability. I maybe interested but later.