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You would be better off selling them and purchasing other ones of your desire. I would think this would be the best way and cheapest. With doing the change you will need to change everything ALF05T mentioned, plus maybe dash cluster, and ICC may need resetting for vin to each car especially being BA to BF change. Another option maybe to have your Auto modified to a clutch auto, I have seen this done on older cars but do not know if it is possible on our barra's or how exspensive it is.

Its a T56 manual. Balancer is on the list. I will be tuning myself with Sniper tuner via laptop. Not worried about cams at this stage. Eboost maybe pending what I can tune with tuner. All help appreciated.

Ok people after suggestions on parts to suit my T to start build over chrissy. I will be using Plazmaman plenum setup and looking at 450 rwkw, so must be able to handle the power and punishment that will be handed to them. I have Argo rods, Plazmaman intake kit, Fuel pump, injectors, X-Force exhaust and a std low k BA engine for the build already. Please let me know best place to purchase by PM as your post me be removed if it is a competitor to any sponsors of this site. Will be looking for Pistons, balancer, main girdle, quality valves, valve springs, retainers, bearings, gaskets, billet oil pump gears, mod turbine housing (Larger flapper), 12 psi actuator and head studs. If you have any other suggestions please mention it as every bit will help. Cheers

My hand is raised high. And starting to really hurt. Is it ever going to happen? Can't wait. Hope it happens before a GTHO release or it may get scrapped in favour for the GTHO.

I hope it is not the one and only Violet with white interior gtho P3. If so try well over a million dollars. I doubt the guy who does own it wouldn't be so stupid to drive it around. Anyway it is not a complete write off and I would say it will be repaired.

Thanks guys this is what I was after. My car does brake very well on its current set up. I have Yokahama's up front, cant recall model spec without having a look. Did alot of research on finding a tyre that grips well under braking and is responsive in turn in. These where the tyres best suited in my 235 30 19 (Same with as other 245 30 19's) They are a run flat design tyre which is suppost to help with turn in bite (Not meaning you can drive on them when they go flat). Up the rear I have 265 30 19 toyo proxy 4's. Simply orsm tyre for tracksion with 300 odd rwkw's. The nangkang prior where like running bmx tyre's on it, only good for pedal power. The reason I was looking for the rears was Iam looking at doing some track days and will be fitting slicks or grooved slicks pending rules. This will be after I have upgraded my power. Looking at approx mid 400 rwkw's. Will be using Sniper tuner to tune car so will look at what settings are available once I start using it, maybe be able to set rear proportioning to suit these track days. If I can't alter brake portioning or brake pressure cut I will just do the slotted disks with better pads. Can't see to much problem since you can have the 4 pots on the FPV range, don't think they use a different master cylinder. If so its easy to change anyway. Also when I had the four pots fitted to the front I was told the rears will go on with no problems as well. Plus you have plenty of front rear kits on the market to fit and none of them say anything about them not being compatable, maybe so they can flog them though. I think the brock shop here in QLD is the owners of race brakes australia. Iam pretty sure that the daughter (the new owner to be of brock shop) had mentioned to me when they where fitting the APRacing fronts. I had quoted some pricing I had received from various brake companies when she mentioned this. Glad I didn't try to barter her on price with them.

I heard that if you do this it will give a fault code. I want to change the fascia only as I have purchased a new genuine FPV dial and not going to do it unless there is a way to clear this fault code. as don't want to get in trouble for messing with the cluster. Does anyone know if the flash tuners can clear the fault codes? Iam in the process of purchase of a sniper flash tuner. Maybe I should just ask Barry about this, but as Iam typing here might as well see what you guys may know.

Just asking because Craig from FIST told me that awhile back that they where doing this mod and that there was something they had to do for the handbrake to work. He did not go into detail on what he was doing to them. Iam also wanting to improve the rear braking as my car was fine before I had full pedders susspension fitted with their adjustable coilover fronts. Prior the car would nearly scrape the crossmember under hard braking, but now it is staying a lot flatter and I feel it could do with more rear braking power. Does anyone know what sort of volume differance there would be between the 2 piston turbo front calipers and the 4 piston APRacing rears which are a option to match the APRacing front 4 pots I have already fitted. Just curious are the BF FPV standard rear disk a vented disk and are the rear calipers a better caliper than the BA series. If they are I would be happy in just upgrading to the vented disks in a slotted style disk. Does anyone have a pair of calipers to suit the vented rear disks. I think non vented ba rears are 16mm and BF rear disks are 26mm thick. Not sure on diameters. Any info on a vented disk upgrade to the rear would be great. Or if anyone can sorce the 4 pot APRacing setup at a good price let me know.

I feel the handbrake is sh*t compaired to every other ford I have owned. Hay it works perfect in the forward direction but once in a blue moon it will hold in reverse. I have a slopping driveway as well. You pull on the handbrake with clutch in and car still running and it rolls back. Let the clutch out and try to drive forward to park where it should have stopped and the handbrake holds against the load of the engine and the car squats. One day I will have ago at modififing it so it works in both directions. Lets hope if this guy who was killed actually owned a BA/BF that something is done about this poorly working handbrake. And yes mine only takes 6 clicks when pulling on as hard as I can. So who has problems with there handbrake holding in reversre direction? I think it is a design issue why they are doing this.

Hi everyone, Can anyone let me know what is involved to fit the front disks and calipers off a XR6 Turbo onto the rear. It's just that I have had fronts replaced with AP Racing 4 pots and now the std fronts have nothing to do. I wouldn't mind them going on the rear. I have heard someone mention that it can be done. Let me know please. Or if you can get the AP Racing rear 4 pots cheap let me know. Thanks

OMG how do you even go to take a picture then post it on the forum without even looking at it before doing so. You sure it doesn't read Ford GT Radials, (you know the ones Moffart promotes). Or maybe it might be Ford perfume radials (Tyre's that smell nice when you do a skid) Might be a new idea to get those girls on the DOT ads not to give the pinky as they will love the perfume smelling tyre's when we hoon past them baggin them up. You might need to beg and bribe a bit to get this thread removed. good luck and hope I never do such a silly thing. Might have been better to just disappear for a few weeks than come up with the lame excuses of had to much to drink, the sticker on the other side was torn. Good luck with finding those Ford Performance radials

The genuine ford coils are made by Visteon. The ones I have that have failed are 3R2U-12A366-AA FI1TA (Smaller text) 3056CA It is in the smaller text that all the coil packs I have, have different numbers The set in the car I think they are 3027CA. The new set are packed away but I know they where a different number again on the smaller text. Iam pretty certain this small text is going to be batch numbers.

I got mine for the new motor off ebay for $250. Just becarefull as I think there are some non genuine ones being advertised for like $150. The 3 sets I have are all different part numbered unless they are a batch number. If it is part number I think it maybe due to the problems and ford maybe superceding them for a better version? As for the big power and big boost I think it is the extra heat that is generated that is the problem. A few vent holes in the sealed cover maybe a good thing. Iam going to look into a venting setup once I get time.

that's how mine started off senna t. It would do it everynow and then. one day fine the next crap, sometimes it even ran good for like a week other times it would run crap then next time I WOT it would run perfect. Till it ran crap constantly. New coil packs now and all is great.

Firewall prob, ha ha. The crummy has its firewall glued in, now that's scary. Turbo failure's have happened to some and is caused by people not using good oil and not keeping the turbo oil feed filter clean. This filter clogs up as it is only very small and without oil the shaft will sieze. I have removed my filter altogether and have no problems, I use Havoline Fully Syn and change engine oil filter every oil change. My T is very mild with exhaust , valve springs, injectors, fuel pump, K&N filter & a retune and it will toast a VE ss easily. Flog off the ss and buy a real performance car.

Didn't go as weather looked bad at home so checked the weather out there and there was a storm warning with large hail, So was there any storms bar the typhoons or tornato's. Didn't want to risk it. Was some quik times run? When is the next T&T ?

Thanks Rapid on that info. That is another thing I mentioned on the Coil poll. The heat being a problem. As the coils are at the top of the engine where all the heat goes and the fact that they have no ventalation I would feel that the heat in around the coil packs is very high, not good for coil packs or anything electrical. Iam going to look into some sort of vent setup to get the coil temps down. Even if it is just to perforate the cover it will get some temp away from the coil packs.

And last time I kicked my tyre I broke my big toe in 2 places. And don't punch a windscreen as you end up with a very swoollen hand for like a week. not to mention you will need to replace the windscreen. Just check the plug gaps give them a clean refit, still not running right fit new plugs. If still have a problem change the coil packs. Look at my coil poll I started and you will see there has been a few people who have had coil failures.

Thanks paul for the refresh on times and requirements. I will be there so count me in.

I found that they where causing car to miss and pop once boost climbed to over 10psi but only once the car started to accellerate. Eg say you are at 2500 rpm in 4th gear WOT it and all is good, then once boost climbs and car starts to get moving say around 3500 it all goes crap, splutter pop. Its like as if once there is to much air/fuel flow under boost they can't ignite it. Mine started off with occassionally playing up to the point where everytime I WOT it , it would do it. I had changed plugs, regapped them etc with no result, changed coil packs and yee ha all good now.

So what time does it start? How much to run the car? Do you pay per person or car? It's been awhile since the last time I have been out there. The last time I ran a car out there you needed to wear a long sleeve shirt, helmet and covered shoes, where required to have a tailshaft safty loop (Shouldn't require this with the BA being 2 piece). Is there anything I may need to know before I head out?

Ok I can say my coils have died at 95 000ks. I have owned it since 87 000ks and don't know if it has had them replaced by the previous owner at any time while he was in ownership. I have also noticed that there is different part numbers on 3 different sets I have. Unless these numbers are a batch number. This I thing maybe ford superceding them with better quality ones as there seems to be a problem with the BA series 1 coils from what I gather from talking to other owners at car events. So has anyone else had any die, let us know what year and model your car is.

I had same prob's and I can nearly say 100% it is your coil packs. Put it under low with no revs it runs clean but as soon as the rev's climb and boost builds it starts to pop and splutter. Hold it at approx half throttle and it will rev clean all the way but anymore and it will splutter its head off. I found if I kept it under 10 psi it ran clean. Anyway changed plugs no differance, changed coils and its alive again. I have 3 sets- the dead set, set from low K engine and a new set and all have different part numbers. unless it is a batch number I am looking at. So I think these coils are going to be a common failing part. Let us know if it is the coil packs and good luck.

just wondering if the last 500 Barra's may end up being supercharged 5.4 GTHO's with 351kw's. We all know they will sell even faster if it happened at twice the price. As for the Cobra we all know the tickford 6's only had a few more kw's but remember how well say a EF XR6 performed compaired to a std EF GLI. If it makes a lot higher average power figure it means it will perform better. Eg it may peak at 12kw more but it's average may be something like 20kw. Plus the extra torque will always help a heavy vehicle. I was reading somewhere that the 40th GT was 3 seconds a lap faster than a GT all due to it's Rspec susspension. (Can't recall track) So imagine that plus the extra power and if it can't beat the gts it will not be much in it. I recall the gts being close to the $100g mark so if it does just beat the Cobra it wouldn't beat it bang for buck. Wasn't the F6 just slightly out gunned by the gts and the GT just beaten by the F6? If so I think Ford may have awinner in either the Cobra or the Rspec F6 or both. Someone mentioned how they showed that ve ute add after the Cobra did a lap, I think it was good how the typhoon (F6) comes through and sucks up a older gmh vehicle and spits out a pile of sh*t. The gmh vehicle's didn't even make out what hit them as it was so fast.

It seems there maybe more than just the one cause. As some are saying it's coming from the passenger side and mine is defaintly coming from the drivers side. Some say its just after they take off mine has done it like after 15 minute's of driving and has not done it for days till yesterday. It happened after taking off from lights and turning right. It is making me think it is suspension steering related but why is it only doing it every now and then. If I was to take someone for a drive it would more than likely make me look like I was imagining this sound as it would not happen. Iam hoping it's not the chassis starting to walk. Has anyone heard of chassis problems when upping the power and tractsion with or BA/BF's ?