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Run a upgraded intank up to a 3 to 4 litre tank, I would build a tank where the air box was, as you wouldn't be using that if chasing big power. Or build your own larger tank in the void where process west surge fits. From there 2 044's one going to each end of the fuel rail from seperate outlets from surge and have your fuel reg mounted central to bleed off excess fuel. a cheap option to save on fuel pump life and reduce unnessary fuel circulation leading to frothing of the fuel which can cause leaning problems would be to run a trigger switch (few bucks from Jaycar) on the accellerator peddle to activate the second pump when accellerator is depressed say 50 - 70%. Another slightly dearer option is to fit a pressure switch on fuel rail that activates the pumps. use a pressure releif valve from surge tank for the excess return fuel so surge tank remains under pressure keeping pressurised fuel to the 2 o44's. also run pressure valved fuel returns from the fuel rail and surge tank back to the fuel tank with exits as far away as possible to tank pump inlet. Also if you can fit the foam baffle into tank as per fuel cells use this will stop frothing off the returned fuel as well as help fight fuel surge in the tank. And why not just run one hi flow fuel pump like a SX 18208 255lph , 18203 300lph , 18207 450lph at 12v and 45psi. Bosch 044 is approx 200lph. the SX would look sweet in the engine bay being billet Alloy. Best to run twin filter/s after surge tank pump/s, deleting the factory filter from under the floor, in doing this this will help fuel replenisment to surge tank. This is a few options as to how I would set up my own fuel system. If anyone has anything to correct me on or add go ahead, as all feedback good and bad is helpful.

Sorry guys cant make it and brother cant either. Will make next one hopefully. Please be a saturday/Evening one more suit to both me and my brother.

Very nice, Black on Black centers with polished lip. I use have a Black XR8 S2 and originally bought my Koy Racetechs for it. And people use to comment on how great it looked even the boys from the other make. put them onto my Blue BA and no one ever says anything. Even the secretary at work said she like my AU better. How you finding the Kumo's mainly the front as looking to buy some I can get at a good price. Just read a test though that put them in 9th place out of ten. Your ride height looks very close to where mine was before it settled so would think it would settle to just above the tyre tops, just enough to get your fingers on top of tyre.

Great bit of work there. Use to have some old ford crossflows that would always work the flywheel bolts loose. I tried arp bolts with loctite that didn't work so tack welds on each bolt head to flywheel. another easy option is to drill bolt heads from sides and link them together with some HT wire.

Need a pair of those Rear: SPF2787K bumps stops. PM what price you guys can get me a pair please. Iam at Boronia Heights and can either pick up if not to far or pay for them on the Toowoomba cruise if you are going.

Hi everyone, I may attend 95% possibity and if so may get my kid Brother to tag along in his new FG XR6T. May be better this time compared to the last both of us attended where I stripped rubber from something sharp on a rear going up Mt Tam and the brothers old EL XR8 blew a Heater Tap. That was the Springbrook Cav's Steakhouse Cruise which started from yatala.

I cant beleive you ran the engine without coolant. Never have heard anyone doing that before. just out of curosity did you check your head & engine deck for straightness before fitting? Dont know if you where thinking the head gasket just blew so must just be that so replace it. Since you said the number 1 and 6 bores where cracked, I would assume it got very hot. When you have 2 different metals that expand and shrink at different rates in extreme heat situations your bound to have warped the head. was the gasket surfaces throughly cleaned also you did use new head bolts as the head bolts are a use once throw away bolt (Nickname-plastic Bolts). If you remove the head again you will need to get new bolts again, also when a gasket has been crushed (Torqued down)it may not seal again. Next time you assemble a engine make sure you fill with water, if concerned about head gasket sealing first, leave the header tank cap off so it doesn't build pressure. If your number 6 was the only cylinder with crack I would be thinking your water pump could have caused it as if your pump doesn't build enough pressure the rear cylinders suffer being furthest from the pump. Also never remove a thermastat as you need it to restrict flow from engine so the rear keeps coolant pressurised. Learnt this with a old crossflow I built, exactly 1 week on the road the brand new thermastat decided it would not open and my car boiled at a set of lights. I then pulled it out and thought never again will I use one. That engine ended up losing compresion on number 6 just over 12mths from build. I would say the fact of the rear cylinder not getting enough cooling pressure ment it was running hot, there for causing the rings to lose tension over time from running hotter than other cylinders. also thermastat helps keep your engine at its best operating tempeture.

so what would these cost landed in Australia - brisbane? Is there anyone selling them here in Australia? I would rather use these as they look more factory like even though you dont see them. Just a little funny about using wood in a car, wood is for houses not cars. Yes I know the trims are all moulded mdf, massonite or cardboard, yuk.

If you purchase the SCT Racer Pro tuning software you will be pretty inpressed with the tuning options available. Problem is you need to know where to purchase from as I know Capa wouldn't sell me it, so I went elsewhere.

yer agreed, 20's look great, but I preferr the drive quality of the 18's over my 19's and 20's would be so much worse. Mind you that's my opinion as I have like half a dozen bad disks (Spine not brake rotors) I would sell my 19 Koya Raceteh's and fit these ROH's back on if only they cleared my brakes. Thanks for giving me good luck with sale. It was worth the try, you just never know.

Get some 5mm ply. Alot stronger. I would still seal them with paint even though they can handle miosture a little better than mdf.

yer dont expect him to give away his bussiness, hell its only a couple of plugs not anything that is of any real advantage except keeping engine harness original. Bit tight if you ask me. How about I keep trying to find a manufacturer and just tell everyone for no charge. Thought this community was all about helping each other. Why would I buy a TB relocation kit off PW just for the cables concidering I have already a Plazmaman Plenum.

Yes have to add new pictures, those are over 12mths old. I have Pedders extreme adjustable front coil overs with sports riders rear, the tops of the tyres sit under guards now. Cant get a standard workshop trolley jack under but my 90mm alloy race jack just makes it. scrapes on the odd rediculess speed bumps. get very pissed as my SS X-Force muffler has a few scratches now, should of had a skid plate tacked to it when I had the susspension fitted.

These would look hot if you arnt going to use big brakes. Dont fit with AP Racing 4 pots and 330mm DBA5000's. I know where you can get them at near 1/3 the price of new and only done 2000 - 3000 k's PM if interested as I have them up for sale. See my ad in for sale section for more details. Check ROH for how good these are. You could even seperate them and colour code center or change to black. Also if you want to go wider all you need to do is purchase wider bands.

I like my choice, plenty of dish. Koya raceteh 9.5x19 rear with 265 rubber bands and Front 8.5x19 with 245 rubber bands And look even better with my 4 pot AP Racing 330mm DBA500's fitted front. Rear still very lonely still having std brakes.

Becareful, anyone looking at the sniper. I tried this option with no success. Apparently it does not support all ecu's in BA's. I spent like 10mths being stuffed around trying to be able to use it. For the last 6mths the seller and myself where trying to locate another ecu to suit a BA Manual XR6T, unsuccessful. This would have also need to be reset by Ford. Then ended up purchasing the Xcal2 from this dealer as he said I could adjust Air, Fuel, ignition, gear ratio etc. This was not the case so sent it back. In the end the seller refunded me the cost of the unit. I still lost heaps on std calls, sending registed insured post three times to the west coast etc. I then purchased from my current dealer a Xcal2 and Racer Pro Tuning software. I am currently using Xcal2 with Racer Pro tuning software that was not purchased from capa or above dealer. I am still uncertain at present weather I will be affected or not, waiting answers. Maybe lucky I didn't purchase from capa, since they could not offer me the Racer Pro software. So found another supplier that could. This could be some of the reason why capa is the center of attention in all this, as they are affecting sales of other SCT products. What I can't seem to work out is if capa is the problem due to resetting the flash tuner as mentioned throughout this thread, why had SCT advertised there product to be able to be reset up to 5 times?????? Another thing I have been told is the Xcal3 has compatability issues with the BA/BF, weather this might just be using the Racer Pro software or the unit to car being the issue. I was originally going to pay the extra to purchase the Xcal3 (Livewire tuner) but was told to purchase the Xcal2 because of the problems with the Xcal3. everyone needs to reserch what options to choose. the SCT product is great. Its a pitty they have taken steps that affect the end user instead of the offending dealer. Its So wrong...... not very well thoughout...... we the end user's will never know the truths of this and will just have to not stress to much as it will be a very long process if it goes to the courts. If I was SCT, I would just cut the loss at the Barra era using SCT's Xcal1 & Xcal2 and just look into the future with the Xcal3 and Orion on wards, learn from there mistakes so this never will occur again & dont advertise multiply lives. If the problem is with capa, make it public so everyone knows what has occurred. Stupid punishing the end user when they are the bread for the future. Eg I own a BA XR6T and when I purchase a FG I would be looking at a tuner for it. There actions have made me decide to not purchase one of there products again (first Loss) my brother has just purchased a FG XR6T yesterday morning and I will be informing him of the actions SCT have taken (2nd loss) A friend of mine is also awaiting a settlement and is looking to purchase a FG F6 also wanting to tune(3rd loss) then every other potential Ford purchaser also will learn of this (3rd to 10 000 and counting loss's) Cant beleive a large company with world wide trades could make such a stupid decission as they have. The internet is very powerful and the word spreads.

So who manufactures them for you?

I asked this Question a week or so ago. Looked everywhere, got some suggestions but nothing found for straight plug in. Process west does them but he wont sell the extensions unless its in the TB relocation kit. I have ended up just splicing into harness by soldering and using heat shrink. I used a spare harness I had by stripping it back to get the full length of wire then cut the original plugs off and spliced there. Ford would have tried to sell you a throttle body. Its not a plug on the parts list so they wont have it. looked through a large wrecker trying to find either plugs with no success.

Just go to ford, Paid $131 for one unpainted. Was lucky to get my first one, new painted on Ebay for $120 delivered then I just went to ford and got the other. If I had known they where only $131 new from ford I would have just purchased both straight away. I was chasing mine for like 12mths. All that I could find where the gt and force ones which look crap and dont fit real well.

I am thinking 3.9's but can you get 3.9's to fit the M86. heard of 3.73 & 4.1's. As for making the 350rwkw it should get close concidering it made 275rwkw @ 12psi With only injectors, valve springs, centre muffler removed and tuned. When I fitted the X-Force it make a huge differance and would be thinking close to 300rwkw. it started turning the tyre's in 2nd when coming on boost with no clutching. With the Plazmaman plenum, piping & HDI GT Series IC I would be pretty disappointed if it didnt make atleast 330rwkw at 8-10 psi and very disappointed if it didn't make atleast 350rwkw at 12 psi. I have heard of many other cars running similar numbers and higher but using F6 engine or built engines. Also keep in mind manuals usually make more on the dyno than a auto from what I have heard. They just dont work as well on the strip as the auto. The 275rwkw graph was retained by the previous owner, should of got a copy from him. Didn't worry at time as though I would just get one when I take it to a dyno. Just after I purchased it I took it to the RDP open day dyno. Wasn't aware the previous owner set it back to the soft tune, you know how cars always feel faster when you are sitting the pasenger seat. It made 338rwhp (250rwkw) 25rwkw down. I was disappointed and though the hot day maybe the reason. Ended up using the flash tuner for my first time and found he had set it to the soft tune. and the power was so much better when I changed it. Was kicking myself after driving it on the soft tune for weeks. Reason being is he knew the t5 would end up breaking as when he sold it to me he said it had been rebuilt and fitted with heavy duty drive shafts etc. Should of been more curious and looked at the receipt he showed me throughly. Yes it had driveshafts but nothing about being heavy duty or strengthed. Anyway run it ever since on the hi tune, had to replace the t5 but no other problems. havn't bothered with anymore dyno's as was just waiting till I built the engine and purchased all bolt ons as to do it all in one go. things have changed since and my funds I had have been needed for family issue's. Doing it slow now step by step. So will be looking at diff next as it would be my best option to be done next. Anyone want to swap or trade a 3.45 for 3.73 to 4.1 ratio diff. I have numerous parts for sale in the for sale section if anyone wants to trade for a diff.

If you have a week signal it is harder to get quality from it. The better the signal the better the quality. Eg. you can have the best and greatest home theater set up but if your tv signal being received is weak it wont make great out put quality. This maybe why sickd is saying he has a lot more umph from his system. Your only going to push the volume to a point where it is starting to distort then back it off a tad. also when you have cleaner signals at the right frequency to suit speaker type you can make more volume by using more volume as the distortion level has been raised due to cleaner more suited frequencies.

Go talk to a expert audio installer as I did, I was told the LC6i was the best signal convertor on the market to convert the line signals. Dont just talk to one go talk to a few, look for some audio forums or feedback from other web sites. It is a 6 channel convertor, so you can run the correct signals to the amps for which speakers you want to run. Only other better way is to run a external head unit as I am currently fitting. Worst thing about using the external is I will lose the use of the steering wheel audio controls. I have to look into the wheel audio controls as I think I have seen somewhere someone saying there is a way to still use them. not interested though if I have to hack into any harness or the ICC to have the audio wheel controls function with my dvd player. Just put up with having to use the head units controls. cant wait till I get the time to finish my install. JVC DVD Head unit - USB & Ipod connection 6.5" comp series componant Clarion speakers front and rear. 12" JBL Sub in Custom Fibreglass Sub Box 6 channel JBL amp

Pretty similar to the ROH Strada's I have for sale in the for sale section. But dont know if they are a true 3 piece wheel like the strada's

Yeh my exhaust housing bolts came loose on mine. Tighened them up but now has just started to leak from somewhere else. Only notice it when its cold and on boost. If you drive it steady for 5 mins before giving it some it doesn't do it. Mine sounds more like a victa, very imbarrassing. Hopefully will get to it this weekend. Iam going to try to drill the nuts and use wire to tie then.

And if anyone wants one that is brand new in packaging check out my for sale ad or pm me. Only selling as changed plan by installing a dvd head unit. Was told by Stratfield that this is the only real way of adding amps , Subs and speakers running from head unit. I was only going to buy a cheap line convertor and was talked out of it.