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PHANTMXR6 no not on any commission or associated with them just letting everyone know because they are a orsm bit of gear. not as flash casing wise to Autometer but the setup and functions are far superior. Everyone is best asking them about any questions. I can help about any with the AFR/Lambda setup. The supplier is in Bundaberg off memory, As I am not fully up to speed with what the advantage over a Flash tuner 3 or an Autel US703 code reader. I think if you sent them a message they could tell you. They are a US company and the SCT product is more used over there. desflurane Yes they are not cheap but for what you get it is worth it. Eg I paid $500 for the AFR/Lambda setup and the Autometer Cobalt was $660 SAPNEN I had tried once already but if you have tried to take a picture of a monitor with a camera before you will realise you get lines showing on the picture. Will try again may try rapid shoot to see if I can get one without a line showing. I would think it would all plug up as per the same as in all ODB11 compliant cars do. The SCT Flash tuners all plug in the same. just would have to make sure the software will be compatible with the our BA-FG cars

I thought chicks love lube? LOL Sorry get my mind out of the gutter (You did mention gorgeous girl though). that's great you have alive again. That tint isn't the unbreakable film is it? If only. How the hell do you protect your hard earned property. Hope if I ever encounter a situation like yours my insurance covers it without to much hassle. Mind you I would not have driven with a open oil line in the cabin.

F6 Ute thanks, this is what I really am looking for. I will have to be reasonably carefull how hard I do have it coming on power till I get my new engine together. Just want to learn the tuning first on these cars before the good engine even looks like going in, would prefer to make any mistakes with this engine. I had been thinking of weather of not the torque protection settings have been bleeding off the boost. just been a little cautious on weather to start turning them off completely. Wouldn't mind trying to find out how far others have run safely with what settings they have run on the torque tables. Is it normal when if I WOT at say in forth gear 2000 - 2500rpm and I get heaps of what is sounding like boost going out the Wastegate till it gets to around 3500 and starts to hammer. Maybe the torque protection playing its part here. I think I have a bit more timing in it as when I was sorting the injector values One test run saw mid 14 AFR and didn't look like pinging at all. But at the same time with the boost is bleeding off till 3500+ its not really loading it up hard to cause detenation. 03XR6T I have tried to deflate street tyres before on other tuff v8 falcons I had owned and all that happens is they get very unstable. You need to use drag specific tyres to run low tyre pressures. Street tyres are designed to run at the recommended presures. Hence if you run below recommended presure the tread wears out side edges and if run higher presures the middle wears out. So at low presure your tyre foot print (Tread contact) will only be using the outside edges. Also the tyre sidewalls are not designed to run low pressure especially on low profile tyres. I have also noticed even when I have run 35psi in my tyres it hasn't the traction it has when run at 40psi. I think my big skids where a part of the problem as probably getting heaps of heat soak with the standard cooler.

Clutch is a CI Twin plate. I am changing gears between 5200 to 5500 just as it rolls off boost Street tyres so not good to deflate. They are 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's which are quite a good street tyre and not cheap. The 60ft is what is hurting the most. I have to take off steady riding the clutch till it starts to move then release clutch and WOT. If I give it say 3000rpm and drop the clutch from there it will stall. Try droping clutch any harder and I end up with wheel spin and violent axle tramp. I have to get under it and check the rear diff bush as suspect it to be flogged. From visual it is hard to tell if it is flogged or not as the bolt and washer has it covered. I think last time out the axle tramp wasn't as bad which maybe due to cutting the bump stops down. Could need more cut off them still. I am running Pedders sport lows at rear with the Pedders Xtreme adjustable coil over fronts. Driving on the street and WOT from rollin speeds it def feels like a 12 second car. The current tune is feeling a bit narrow in its power band as well so will be working on trying to improve it also. Another thing which may have cost me was the fact that I was showing off a bit with 2nd gear burnouts pass the tree. Probably heated the cooler badly. Dule: I know your running less boost but when is your boost starting to build and at what rpm is it at max boost and how far does it hold max boost for. Could you also tell me more about your mods. Wouldn't mind getting it into a 12 before I add my Hi Po bits, but I think the cooler is also causing lots of hassle.

Ok just wanting to get a idea of what sort of times other Manual BA XR6 Turbo's are running. looking for anyone who has run the 1/4 with standard IC and intake pipes. Also some tune help with settings and functions. I have run a best so far of 13.33 at 108mph on street tyres with average launchs due to traction and axle tramp. Run 1 4:38pm 25deg, 63% Humidity, 1010mB, 1879RA, (TT)39Deg Reaction 0.813 60ft 2.245 330ft 5.820 660ft 8.735 MPH 83.92 KPH 135.06 1000ft 11.232 ET 13.331 MPH 108.15 KPH 174.05 Run 2 4:59pm 25deg, 67% Humidity, 1010mB, 1879RA, (TT)37Deg Reaction 0.491 60ft 2.288 330ft 5.882 660ft 8.836 MPH 83.61 KPH 134.56 1000ft 11.348 ET 13.507 MPH 104.46 KPH 168.11 Slightly bogged down off line My car has a custom tune running 12 psi of boost. Has X-Force 3.5 exhaust Nizpro Valve Springs And Injectors Walbro Fuel Pump Was a T5 but changed to a T56 Still retained the 3.45 diff. I feel the top end was pretty crap and the 60ft ordinary to say the least. I have noticed when taking off steady then WOT it starts building boost at around 3000rpm and by 4000rpm comes in hard at 15psi then tapers back to 12psi around 4500-5000rpm. I think the Wastegate is open bleeding off boost below 3000rpm which may be the reason of my slow 60ft times as well as the soft launchs to avoid wheel spin and axle tramp. Also I have noticed as the Humidity rises my MPH drops. eg my last run was at 85% and I lost 2-3 mph. I expected this to happen. Will be fitting HDMI 600x300x75 cooler,plazmaman plenum & Pipes, Siemen deka 60lb injectors 15psi actuator this weekend if time permits. mate has fitted a full Plazmaman 1000hp kit and is having no problems with boost spiking. he is running 12 psi actuator and has run 12.1 so far be it a BF F6 A6 on street rubber. would also like to now how to get the Launch Control feature to activate correctly as per tune file. I have set rpm's, turn off speeds, system switch's, Axle settings, Rev and Speed Limiter settings. Followed the SCT Manuals directions with no luck. Asked SCT for help with not much in reply so far. I get it working but it wont turn off while driving. Throw your comparisments in and any tune suggestions if you can help.

The PLX is full customable. set what ever colour you want. Also find My PLX set on digital is so much easier to read than my Oil & Boost cobalts. I am pretty sure I can set warnings in it to, just haven bothered to set it. The PLX Devices are more than just a gauge, many functions with link ups etc.

PLX gauges will, they are only very thin as they are a LCD monitor style gauge. Check out here for more details http://plxdevices.com/

Would not buy either due to owning a PLX devices gauge set up. Have a look at http://plxdevices.com/

If you want a great AFR gauge, have a look at the PLX Devices AFR set up. available in 52mm & 60mm gauges. The gauge is a LCD monitor that can be custom designed by yourself and is feature packed. It is a wideband setup so you need to have a second bung welded to your exhaust for the O2 sensor. It does not jump all over the place. Mine sits at idle 14.6 to 15.1 my tune Vs old tune 14.5 to 15.5 Cruise is like wise tapering to 11.9 WOT where it sits constant old tune was 12.2 WOT. I feel I will get my tune even better with a bit more tuning. Once I sort the AFR to be perfect I will start adding some timing and may get a bit more out of it. I have just started to learn how to tune these cars and am using no dyno to do so. About 1 month ago on its professional tune from x workshop my car ran a best of 14.1 At 100mph. saturday night with my new tune done by myself my car ran 13.33 at 108mph The idle has been bought down from 1000rpm with a intermittent slight miss to a very smooth 650rpm idle. I have also improved fuel mileage. All this by tuning with use of this AFR gauge. car (BA XR6T) is still running standard intake pipe work and intercooler. Mods include T56 upgrade still T5 diff ratio 3.45. CI Twin Plate clutch Walbro Fuel Pump Nizpro Injectors Nizpro valve springs X-Force 3.5 exhaust system Street Tyres, lots of problems getting off the line. 2.3 60ft times. So since you are a long way from a tuner I suggest this AFR gauge set up. They also do a I-Pod/I-Phone OBD11 setup as well as any other gauge setup you may need. Also If you want to tune your own car PM I can get you linked up to do so. great work on the Pod. Should be able to get the 60mm in there.

A cheap F6 engine coming soon. rods arnt that much better than the BA rods. Better get the new engine ready real soon. Good numbers though, shows how good these I6's are. How much boost did you pump in to it. And how was intake temp and turbo temp?

Went well there big fellow. Was surprised how much differance weight made. Heard you left lion eater sitting on the last run. Ran a tidy HK Blue Monaro the one behind me in the line up. Dropped clutch at 4500rpm & Lit tyres first with a small snake from line, he got out to near 2 lengths on me, caught him 3rd and pulled away 4th. The stock cooler was costing me 2mph in the top end on every run since the humidity rose above mid 60 as well as a few bad launch's. Will have to try catch you next time once I have all my gear fitted. Unless I push past my BA engine limits and due to the manual Its going to be hard to catch you though. have to get a new job so I can get the rest of my new engine bits to ever seriously try to catch you. Was pretty happy though having run 13.33 at 108mph with stock intake and cooler and being manual may have been better to if I hadn't saved over my tune from last weekend which had more mid to top punch. How did the coast go afterwards?

what the hell, who are you insured with, that's ridiculess. Iam 39 with suncorp, had no insurance for 3 years prior, put me down as a rating 1. Cost me around $670 per year with my mods declared. With having mods if at fault I have to pay a extra $500 access. If not think it was a couple hundred. A lady friend of mine wrote off her near new BA GT and they settled her claim with payout within 1 week. Before insured with them I tried shannons $1300+ And everyone else didn't want to know because of mods. If your insurance is going to sting you that much access when it is not your fault I would be giving them the flick. Got me worried now with my gauges, The PLX AFR/Lambda cost me on its own $500. well worrth every cent to. The PLX when not turned on doesn't look as flash as the cobalt so once I do off load my cobalts I will feel a little less paranoid of someone doing like wise. And hell better never break my freshly tinted windows either. Might pay to offer a small reward to catch the scum, dont worry about the cops, they probably wont do a thing as no money to them. Get a few people from here privately and sort it out. Quite sure others would love to help out.

Eastern punishment - cut ir f*cken fingers off. Had same sort of thing happen to me years ago when I took my women to see kindergarden cop, well we where having a good talk and laugh back to car then went to unlock her door, it was already unlocked, my dash mount graphic equalizer gone, new tyre pump I got for christmas and my at time new fad white gangsters style hat off all things. These mungrels probably dont work and live off ripping us hard working people off. it is so sad. I once caught 2 16yo's breaking into my neighbours house, a single mum of 4 how low. chased them up the road, they split, continued to chase one. grapped him in a headlock and dragged him all the way home for the police to come get him. meanwhile telling him how low he was and who he was going to rob from. The police found the other sh*t head on the way to my place. I was waiting outside the doctors the other night and decided to remove my roof mount dvd player, do think anyone questioned me or called the police. How many people probably saw these guys ripping off your gauges but didn't either bother to report it or say anything. Maybe see if you could put up some flyers to see if you can get any leads. If Shopping Center management wont allow it then tell them because of ther poor security for the customers that you will shop elsewhere. And more than likely the culprids will be back. As for your leak should off tried tying knots in the oil line then grapped some empty bottles to catch leakage. or even better still tied knots but run the line back into your rocker cover fill hole. You will find now the smell of the oil will take 6 months or so to get rid of. best to remove your whole interior and steam clean it. Have you got insurance, just get them to sort it out. If not might pay to get insurance. Good luck hope you catch the mungrels, give them a hot oil bath at the least. PS If you want, PM me. I will be selling my Cobalt 100psi and Boost gauges (And incase there maybe a smart ass I do have receipts and they arnt this poor guys stolen ones). I will sell them as soon as I can afford to get my other 2 PLX gauges. May even sell the tripod as may just get a FPV 2 gauge pod as the plx gauges can read up to 8 perimeters at once. will always want to have my current plx gauge monitoring AFR/Lambda all the time so the others will have to monitor oil, boost and thing of getting the OBD11 setup. Or have a look at these PLX Devices yourself. I am west Logan City if you want to come check them out or look at these orsm PLX gauge.

Yes know the feeling, also mainly use BP Ultimate except I still have the stock cooler in place. You even can tell it the fuel because your mileage is also poor. At one stage I was getting accassional pinging boosting 2nd. Stopped using there fuel, but because I dont have a shell garage near home I have started using them again. I still noticed from time to time a slight power loss when using shell but nowhere as often and never had pinging. The BP I use is Middle Road greenbank. Also I think the humidity affects the power.

Why not just ask ford if they can adjust the auto sensing on your next service. surely its got more adjustment in it. Eg Advantage tuning software can set a xcal2 flash tuner between whatever the tuner sets adjustment range to. so I would think ford maybe able to give more range in your setting for you.

VE Black maloo mucking around with a aston martin, The maloo beat the Aston. The maloo was sporting a reasonally loud exhaust, was all over him, pulled out to pass then nag demanded to back off we both left the aston. Last time the nag comes to a private road in my car. Mild BA T56 exhaust, Valve springs, injectors and 12 psi tune. Also made a VE GTS 307kw look slow reckons he was packing 340rwkw, yeah right. have tested against a couple FG XR6's and they are no slouch, you should do him by more than a car length 400m's and more the further you run. If you dont you need to sell your ride and by a daewoo.

275rwkw T5 BA sedan 3.45 gears pre X-Force exhaust and T56 using same gears. Shocking axle tramping off line having to peddle it first fighting axle tramping. 2.5+ 60's trap speed 100mph - 161kph @ 14.1 running 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's, 30 deg humidity 90 Compared with cars running, my first half was very poor, 2nd half staying consistant with them by looks. Even first run dropping clutch at 2500 near stall, clutch and go again was not much better in the 60 then my run I dropped clutch at 4500, felt like something smashed through floor, got off it fed back into it. Things I susspect hurt times are the gears rev limit 3rd or just coming into power 4th crossing line. Axle tramping having to get on and off the go peddle. Maybe to humid for the standard XR6 cooler. Also tried to run with hose removed from air box but no differance maybe due to the hot engine bay temps (Sounded sweet though). Mods have been kept to near minor due to fragile BA engine. (In process of gathering parts for Hi Po Engine setup). 12 PSI tune boosts to 15 and tapers back to flat 12. Nizpro Valve springs & Injectors Walbro Pump X-Force single 3.5 CI Twin Plate K&N Panel Filter Have Plazmaman Plenum, Piping and HDI 600x300x75 GT Series cooler ready to go but just need to do wastegate before I fit them. (Will fitting these and setting boost to like 8 psi be alright or will I still have boost control problems before doing Wastegate) Could someone tell me what can be expected once I sort it. I will try to locate my Time slips if needed. Dont have the 275kw dyno graph. have a graph from lo octane tune pre exhaust and T56 at 338rwhp 250 rwkw done at RDP open day. Off memory it ran a very smooth power curve with mid 11 AFR. Car is quicker than VE GTS on rolling starts, and a tad quicker than Stock auto FG F6 also rolling starts. never tried off line. brothers new Fg XR6T A seems quick off the line but doesn't seem to have the mid/top urge my car does. We both will get to the track to compare once I sort my axle tramp issues to see if I can keep him at bay over the 1/4. Sorry if straying a bit here, just would like to know its current potential.

why run the return lines to the surge tank, wouldn't it cause frothing or if you are just cruising and the surge is full how can the excess fuel bleed off. wont the fuel rail increase in pressure causing a richer idle / cruise? Wouldn't be better to just run the fuel from tank pump into a filter then to the surge tank then to the injector rail. with the set up you have suggested I would think it would be ok if the pumps had pressure switchs to shut them on and off when required. Or is there a switch already built into the factory system or pump? with the 044 having by memory a 40-45psi rating does that mean it regulates its pump power to that pressure or have some sort of built in on off switch? also mounting in the boot will cause fumes into the cabin and is illegal.

This wouldn't be JG From logan. If so give me a PM. Good choice in car. Colour yeah not a big fan, had noticed at a all Ford day the yellow attracts flies real bad. The yellow dont look that bad when you fit black centered rims with polished lip or even the Factory dark agents.

try this out pretty orsm. I have the AFR monitor gauge set up. http://plxdevices.com/ iMFD Data Logger Also have a look at this May even get one myself Kiwi Wifi OBDII Connectivity Compatible with 1996+ Vehicles Or you can upgrade to the Xcal2 and use livelink .

Hi, Need help please. I have a 2003 Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo 6 speed manual. Iam using the Racer Pro software with the Xcal2. My question is about getting the 2 step or launch control to function correctly. No matter what I have tried it functions but wont switch off when driving. eg set it at 3500rpm each time you rev to 3500 it activates. I have tried settings as suggested in the manual with no success. The car was a originally a 5 speed T5 manual and has been upgraded to the T56 6 speed manual. the reverse lock out is tapped into the brake pedal switch. My catch code is 32GJ and the software only shows gears for a 5 speed. I wouldn't mind being able to correct this along with the function of being able to lock out reverse when doing 6-5 changes as per the later model falcons. One other thing is being new to this style of tuning and a turbo car, what AFR's should I be setting the car at. eg should it be a flat 11.9 - 12.1 or 14.6 idle cruise with WOT being 11.9 - 12.1. I have tried to richen the mixture up by Base Fuel Table and Injector slopes for idle and cruise but all that happens is the WOT gets richer. Doesn't make any differance by turning Adaptive learning off unless Iam not doing it correctly. Also how quick should it richen for WOT. eg WOT at say 2000 rpm in 4th to 6th and takes 2 seconds 1000-1500 rpm to get to 12.1 from the 14.7 If WOT at higher rpm it is almost instant. I find the manual to be very vague with its descriptions and instructions. not to mention lots of settings on the program dont have descriptions for the settings. other than the 14.7 idle cruise I have it running so close to as good as it gets. The x Tuner who had tuned my car before I had purchased it had it idling at just under 1000rpm with a slight miss here and there. I have it now idling at 700 rpm smoother than x tuner had its running that well I have pick a few up more Kw's at same boost. I would like my AFR to run constantly at between say 11.9 - 12.3 just so my PLX AFR gauge with its peak hold values can give me a accurate reading when run on the track. Unless I can find out how to interface it to the Xcal for data logging. Any help greatly appreciated.

Check this out from PLX Devices http://plxdevices.com/ I-Phone or I-Pod OBD11 set up. Simply WOW Fit this up in either a permament pod or removable setup and it will match the rectangle shaped ICC Screen not to mention the functions. This company make great quality products. I have a AFR 52mm gauge setup in my BA and it is fantastic. Ask RIP85 what he thinks of my Gauge. If you want the round gauge look check out what they have on offer. I purchased my AFR from a dealer up in Bundaberg buy memory for $500. Just check there website for dealers and information. with the AFR I have I have installed, set up is a monitor screen with a sensor box and O2 senor. I have loaded a few Background pictures, Jessica Alba Nude covered, some FG's etc As well as you can download gauge designs or request designs or even edit your own. It has functions of displaying anologue, digital, graph, splatter and shows min and max values. Also it can display up to 8 perimeters, just need to hook up senors to suit. I think they also do a OBD11 to connect to the 52mm monitor gauge. best to have a read of there website. 1 downside is - cant fetch me a beer.

Congrats Dags Now I know where all my broadband useage has gone..... Keep up the great work.

May have not explained myself properly about filters after surge tank. Best to run your filter after the surge tank pump. By doing it this way the it makes the intank pump able to supply a little bit more fuel volume to surge tank by not having the restriction of the filter in place making for a smaller surge tank requirement. If you calculate everything out like Fuel flow per hour WOT that engine requires at x hp/kw and you know what your pump/s are rated to flow you can work out what size surge tank is required. Convert back to Flow per Seconds so you can work out how long x liter surge tank can supply required fuel. Keep in mind if the intank pump is poor the surge tank will need to be larger. For circuit work the surge tank needs to be larger for the time duration of the WOT applications. Eg say your engine draws 60lph (17 mls per sec) and your surge pump flows 80lph and intank only flows 30lph (13 mls per sec). Ignore the surge pump as we know it will supply the fuel, the problem will be the intank pump and the size of the surge tank to how long WOT is used. Now say surge tank is 1 litre, the engine would empty the litre tank in approx 60 seconds with no intank supply. Add intank pump replenishment of half the flow as above and you would be looking at the surge tank running dry within 30 seconds more. This would be alright as long as WOT is only held for a safe period of 60 seconds all depending surge tank design on scavaging low level fuel. And pending how soon after that full throttle is applied and held for. If you run both intank and surge pumps of same flow rates in excess of engine requirement you will have lots of fuel recirculation when driving at low throttle percentages unless you use pressure switches on both pumps to cut the flow down when not required. The best systems are always very complex in design, just look at any hi profile circuit racecar. All comes down to how long you will be holding WOT. Basic Step by step of a basic setup Intank pump picks up fuel and pushes it to the surge tank Exit from surge tank to 2nd pump (Surge Pump) 2nd pump then pumps to fuel rail fuel pressure reg (FPR) holds set pressure to injectors FPR releases unused fuel to fuel tank. No retune needs to be performed unless you are running higher or lower fuel pressure from the pumps and your FPR cant bleed off enough fuel. You will need to upgrade the FPR from the factory one as the factory FPR was never designed to support the power level you are aiming at or the Fuel Flow rate. In the case your you end up running higher fuel pressure the injectors will flow more fuel to engine giving a rich mixture resulting in black not blue smoke. You might find if the fuel pressure is not excessively higher the ecu will compensate and adjust injectors to suit fuel mixture anyway. Hope I have been helpful, and if I am incorrect in anyway with my knowledge please let me know. Also better say I am not responsible or liable for any damage or harm for my suggestions. And if doing any fuel system work consult with a expert. Fuel systems are very dangerous, never cut corners and always put plenty of though into it. I also try to use least amount of flexibble hose as possible as it is more prone to blow then pipes and quality fittings. not to mention hose always eventually perishes. near had my a car of mine burn to the ground due to fuel filter that should of never been put on a self without a pressure warning on it. It broke on a carb'd 351 running holley blue and reg set at 7 psi. dumped a gut full off fuel all over the engine. I had my 2 yo daughter in car at time, tried ripping her out of baby seat without undoing seat belt. evenually carmed self and undid it. then attended to car. the whole engine bay was burnt, lots had to be replaced, car stunk for months after. Very scary. Woke the whole neighbourhood 6am sunday morning with a large boom. So be very careful if intending on doing fuel mods especially on high fuel pressured cars like ours. Fire Extinisher is a great mate..... Prevention with a well designed setup is even better.

Will have a 3.45 diff from my XR6T sedan for sale as soon as I get a 3.73 or 4.11 . Will take $600 or concider nearest offer. Will have to be a deposit until I can purchase my choice of diff and do change. Approx 2 week wait once deposit taken. PM me if interested.