01txr

Guys I've removed the combination switch but found no damaged wires or shorts. Started again, moved the lever around everywhere no flashing lights or weird crap. Will have to keep searching till I find what the hell has caused it. Anymore ideas?

Tuned by self using SCT racer pro software. Afr's perfect, timing perfect no detonations, no evidence of detonation on pistons. Soft tuned with slow boost ramps and max 12psi. Is comparo 2 friends with BF F6's one tuned by bayside tuning the other by High Torque Both beaten by mine, the first made 420rwkw the second was his 600rwhp 447rwkw street tune. All cars where manual t56. The second car being near identical in acceleration except he'd lose a car length plus due to lag of his GT45 with 47 internals. Once on boost it was nothing in it. There is a possibility the rod may of had a flaw as grain structure doesn't look the best. Plus prior to Me purchasing it, the orig owner said he had Romano tune it, drilled nizpro injectors, nizpro valve springs, center muffler removed. Said was hopeless not to ever use him as could not get car right. Then can't recall the tuner he mentioned and reckon mended but said to use them. Made 275rwkw. I wasn't very happy with it had a random miss at idle, was thirsty recording 13 liters per 100k highway. And occasional start up problem where it would splutter shake and not respond to throttle. Engine light on. Ran 14.1 Etta @ 104mph 2.6sec 60ft. So from there I purchased the xcal 2 and racer pro software. Got a start off tune from Matt at BP Racing. Had input from Danny (Headsex) and ihatetoads on tuning the new Siemens Dekas. Got it sorted. Smooth as silk idle I could not even tell the engine was ticking over. Dropped it down to 400rpm with ease. Raised back up to 650 to avoid stalls. Eco dropped to 8.8 liters per 100 and et down to 13.5 @ 108mph 60ft still the same but started axle hopping due to coming down hard on bump stops. Next track time I upgraded to the 3.5" xforce exhaust, HDI cooler, plazmaman plenum & T56 Huge wheelspin, no axle hop as chopped bumps down. 3rd gear pinged, got off it slotted 4th slowly fed back in to run12.92 at 116mph. Walbro in tank pump 2/3 tank full. Shouldn't of got fuel surge but it did? Didn't run it again since. Then Turbo started to squeal so fitted custom high mount TO4z setup. Process West surge tank and single 044. Logging fuel showed it was fine. Afr's perfect. As said dropped boost down to 12psi with soft boost ramping for the TO4z. On estimate it was making close to what it was with oem turbo but The oem turbo was running at 18psi could not control at less. Highway eco dropped to 8.2 liters per 100k It was making positive boost at 1100rpm 6th gear. 12psi by 1800-1900 rpm.

Barnz so true mate. Turbo failures due to poor service by Ford. Poor quality turbine housings that crack fitted with small internal flapper valves that can't handle exhaust mods. Piss poor conrods in BA xr6t Piss poor 4spd auto & 5spd manuals Coil packs dying Ignition switches falling out Combination switches causing faults Front wheel bearings failing Diff bushes Dual climate rods failing Way under braked At least the idea was great, pitty wasn't refined better earlier. Just did a search on eBay on the steering columns and one seller is advertising a BA update column to rectify the ignition barrel issues of the BA design column. Yet Ford wants to still sting people $1000 plus fitting and coding on top. This really pisses me as I've been a loyal fan supporter for like over 25 years. I'd never switch to Gmh as they are worst plus owned by gm who's owned by the US government. And bang for buck there is no replacement for the falcon. Maybe I need to start trying to source a old TD cortina to fit my new engine and t56 into for when my one starts giving these problems. Hell $1000 steering column I could nearly buy a good TD cortina for that. Sorry guys, I do love my BA XR6t just getting pissed over all the issues I've had and what daughter car has had. And what I'll be looking at for mine when its ignition, combination switch, front bearings, lock actuators etc fail. Me breaking the conrod is my fault as can't expect a std engineered engine to handle the power I threw at it. But that would not have happened if my oem turbo didn't fail due to poor oil flow from unserviced filter. And finding numerous cracks in the turbine housing prompting me to fit a to4z setup instead of the cheap oem replacement. My t5 not handling a tune exhaust and cooler. Fitted blueprinted t56 from Mal woods. The brakes where woeful in std tune So fitted APRacing brakes. Should of bought a BF F6 straight up as it had cost me a lot more then what I could of bought at the time. Paid $29,000 for mine and had Ford Springwood offer me the ex gm's car for $50,000 neat. Shillolette BF F6 t56 full optioned with 5,000k's on clock. Stupid me thinking buy cheaper and spend rest on performance. Should of researched better.

No they have auto and non auto for utes?

Just had a quick look on replacement on eBay. None listed for sedan but some ute and wagon ones, not sure why there would be differance between sedan and ute though, wagon with rear wiper and squirter yes. Non gen $174 Gen $370 plus. Rediculess, and if its a build fault it's pretty said charging that much. Here's hoping whatever the cause of these faults is repairable by solder or replacing wires. Not long after daughter purchased this falcon the ignition failed. Called Ford and they wanted a rediculess price for complete bare column. Searched what problem could be and found its a common manufacture fault where the back of ignition falls out. Reassemble push back in and knock retaining tabs over hard how it should of been done from factory. Starting to understand why people are moving away from ford. I'm loyal and hope ford start making improvements.

Checked stalk wiring from what I can see it looks good. No damaged wires. Had battery on charge all day yesterday and night. Tried to start again still the same. Held crank whilst moving stalk around. Pulled it down and back and it started. Released it and its starts as normal again. Will pull stalk off later when I get some spare time to give a final verdic on the cause. All this because of that piece of sh*t. Daughters happy but not letting use it till I locate the cause. Not having her get stuck out on the road somewhere. Its a good thing it happened whist is was driving. A big thanks on all the helpful advise guys. These computer cars sometimes makes me wonder if its worthwhile. My xr6t has been on a slow engine build for now 4 years due to the financial situation. Broke number 6 rod due to feeding too much power into it though soft tune at 12psi on to4z turbo set up. Ever since been thinking of building another v8 TD cortina instead. Anyway my xr6t should be good with its new motor. Got the 1400hp driveshafts just need to finish the head and save for tailshaft and diff center. Still along way off unless I find a better paying job. Will fill you in on the stalk once I get time to get it out. Cheers

The battery is not going flat. But I will check voltage drop tomorrow. As stated also had a 2nd battery plus jump to a 4wd drive battery plus another car. Heard about the indicator stalk wiring. That may be a possibility as maybe if the indicator power wires are shorting it would probably cause the dramas but why has it not shorted the indicator fuse? I'll check it anyway as that was the first sign of weird sh*t with the flicking of low to high making all the cluster lights light up while flicking the stalk. Didn't think much more of it as it stopped doing it.

Update. Changed engine earth strap and fitted my near new starter from my xr6t. Still no change. However after doing earth strap I got the door locks to work a few times then back to usual. Next to remove the fuse box and check the earth circuit. Or buy 2 leads to run from battery neg terminal to body and engine. Or get one of those car earthing kits with numerous earths. All seems to much as the dam thing should be fine with what it was engineered with. As it was prior.

Reason being why I'm thinking the flasher unit is involved is because everything is flashing and on off like as if its running through a flasher unit. Eg. Leave key on position and all cabin lights 2 rear, 2 footwell and cabin light since bulb replaced is flashing. Plus the throttle body drive by wire is clucking on off. Turn light switch to auto and the amp starts clicking, now that's weird as I've never heard a amp click. It is amp as I disconnected it and it stopped clicking. Then push the door lock on key fob and the indicator lights on dash flash but very dim and indicators are not lighting. To only way to stop the cluster indicator lights from flashing is to turn headlights on then off. It seems rediculess to be flasher unit but it was a thought due to the sh*t it's doing. Car will not lock either. Yet the boot release works perfectly with key fob and dash button as well the fuel flap release with dash button. These are the two only things that seem unaffected and working fine. Also the cabin lights go from dim to flashing to bright in sync with cluster lighting.

Ok apparently the flasher unit is built into cluster. How stupid is that.

It has a earth strap. It is not battery as I've tried my odessay batt plus tried jump from car, and from a 4wd battery. Maybe the earth strap is carrying voltage but not the amperage. It's the woven factory one and it did cop acid from that last battery. Maybe corroded and not flowing enough current. Will change it tomorrow, I'll start pulling parts from my car to try eliminate. Yeh fitted the cabin bulb no good but it cleared the security error. And the dash lights stayed on and didn't dim off leaving the needles illuminated. Try lock the doors and nothing but the soft clicking and dim cluster indicator lights flashing. Again to stop it I have to turn headlight switch on the off and it stops. Nothing else seems to stop it. Still when turn ign to on position the throttle body is clicking like its getting power from the flasher unit. In fact everything is like its being controlled by the flasher unit. Throttle body, dash lights, cabin lights, Parker's, going out to rip the flasher unit out.

its last battery kept spewing acid out, when it died approx 6mths ago it was replaced with a exide heavy duty, which is still showing 13volts and has still got green illumination in the condition gauge. The Odessay battery is out of my turbo BA XR6 and we used it to get by last time till daughter bought the new battery. When last battery died Id checked the voltage from alternator and it was fine, not over charging or under charging. Im really thinking BCM or a short or maybe a bad earth connection somewhere. Tested Battery neg to body and neg to engine and earth is fine there. checked volts to fuse box and its fine, checked volts from fuse box and its fine. Could it be some sort of failure with the starter motor or ignition immobilizer key sensor? If I change the bcm will it start or will I have to have it coded by ford. Or if I change the ecu and bcm from another car will it function or will I also have to change out the steering column as well. just wish the sct would read the fault. gggggrrrr has anyone had the cabin light bulb blow, did you have any issues because of it? Im hoping its the bulb, yes sounds optimistic but ive seen a few comments on the bulb in my searches. will find out when I get home if it is.

It's not battery. Have put my odessay battery out of my car and still exactly the same. Tried jump start. The clicking sound in rear is coming from premium amp. Disconnected it to confirm. You try locking with the key fob and all it does is starts dimly flashing the indicators on cluster. Indicators not flashing The boot release works by fob. Trying to start car and the ICC starts clicking, sounds like coming from behind tissue compartment. Turn just to ignition without cranking and the throttle body starts clicking. Turn lights on and they don't come on, turn back to Parker's and they come on. But after approx 5 sec the blue back lighting fades off and the needles stay lit. Center cabin light bulb blown. All the other cabin lights also start flashing as if the indicator fuse is controlling them. I had noticed the indicator relay clicking to be very quite and hard to hear during the last week. As well one night had dash cluster lights all lighting up on flicking hi beam on and off. Will pull car to pieces over weekend and check earths. This is really pissing me. Can I change the bcm over without having to code it in. This morning I reconnected battery tried to crank it and the security code error came up but cleared itself. Still not starting. Put my SCT tuner on it to check errors and it to started to flash and froze when turned ignition to on. Gggggrrrrr I'd have it towed to ford to get fixed but I'm on verge of bankruptcy and have no possible way of paying it. And daughters on apprenticeship can't afford it. Needs it to get to work. So I'm hoping someone who may have same issues may be able to help. Btw I've checked all fuses and relays and all are fine.

Please anyone, can you give me any clue to funding the issue with this car. I've been driving it for the past week,it had a few times lit up every light in the cluster when switch in to high beam. Then there was the click click crank a few times. Also wife cleaned car the other day(uuumm) had radio going without keys??? Pretty sure it never used to work without turning on to accessory . Today it decided no more, it's like its got a weak battery or power supply. Changed battery still the same. I think its now triggered security as well. Won't even turn audio on. Also if I turn lights on to auto I get a clicking from rear left quarter. Try locking car and won't work, and the hazards come on very dull and only on cluster not indicators plus make rear and map lights flash. Locks won't work but boot release dose by fob. Also when switched to ignition the throttle body drive by wire is switching on and off. I'm thinking either bad earth or bcm. Plus cabin bulb is blown, I've heard this may cause problems as the imobilizer is one same circuit? Please share if you know a fix.

Off memory I heard some time back from hardi splicer in Qld that they fit the Late model camira one to them as they are a stronger option. As well heard something about the xr8 either input shaft or yoke being stronger? I didn't get around to doing it as I smashed number 6 rod and have not had funds to finish the new engine. Keep us posted if anyone does find a better option. I will need one. Or I will just have to try save for a real shaft that can handle huge power. Anyone know what the best oem tail shaft or parts to use, please post up. What's the gt335 shaft like and can it be used in BA series.

Man that chick is so talented. Bet she wins best costume at every fancy dress parties she attends

Go to a decent tuner, sounds like he doesn't know even how to sort injector values. There is lots of tuners now that know how to tune deka's I'd say Danny helped quite a few. As I said I had mine idling as smooth as silk at 450rpm & you could hardly hear it even running. That was with 60lb deka's. no cold idle problems or any other. Returned 8.2 litres per 100k highway and around 10.0 city pending driving mood. Now this is the first ever computer car I've ever tuned and I was able to get it to idle, run and perform very well with initial values from Danny. If a amature tuner can do it, then I would expect a professional tuner to do even better.

There is numerous things that could cause it, the most likely is your dash pot, decay settings. From there you have compensation tables they can affect it. Is it any different when car is cold or warmed up. There is also a anti stall setting off memory to. Could also be the injector shut off settings for off throttle, maybe staying switched of to long. Best go to another tuner as sounds like the one who tuned your car is not very experienced not wanting to move away from factory settings. Pending your injector type, there is a big difference in value settings as to factory injectors. The tuner has to be able to adjust them to suit not try retaining factory settings. Back when the Siemens hit the market for the BA's lots of tuners couldn't get them to idle and just past on having anything to do with them. The smart ones figured them out, Danny thank you. I spent lots of time refining my injector tune with the Siemens and could idle it right down to a silk smooth 450rpm and returned 8.2 liters per 100k highway. To4z setup, plaz plenum, xforce exhaust etc. Find out what injector values he set, Go see Simon at XFT and see what he thinks if the set values.

IH8TOADS I cant check at present as still have not got engine finished. All exhaust ports polished, 120 grit intakes, guide bosses removed, 3 chambers polished, 3 chambers to go then head goes in for larger seats for the ferrera 6000's and machining. Then I'll do a final cc of the chambers recheck port matching after surfacing of the deck, intake and exhaust surfaces. Just hard for time to get it finished. Anyway what I recalled was the rev would hold at a steady 2000-3000. Not eractic Behaviour. Just could not get the rev cut to switch off. Maybe if I raised the revs to 4500 I may have got a erratic cut???? Maybe what I was doing was wrong or different to what you set hence why it would not switch off. As said I tried 1-20mph for the switch off but it didn't happen. Tried multiply rpm settings between 2000-3000. Didn't go higher in rpm for fear of shattering the drive line and fighting wheel spin. Tried lots of other things in the tune to. I could not manually hold the rpm steady over 2000 rpm as all it wanted to do was rev.

Why not bother with the factory 2 step? As I said it didn't act as per a fuel or ignition cut with erratic rpm cut. But more as if it limited the throttle position? Only problem is I was unable to get it to switch off.

I was asking this a few years back but go no response. I have the sct racer pro tuning software. It has launch control in the tune files and instructions to set it. Problem I was having is I could get it to hold what ever rpm I set it to but the Switching off limiter would not function. In the setting you set speed to turn off at. I tried everything from 1-20mph Also the rpm would hold at a steady rpm not like a fuel or ignition cut limiter. Iam unable to test any solutions as in very slow process of a engine build. Be good to get the launch sorted as its so hard to get the manuals off the line. It's either huge wheel spin, bog down or fried clutch. Some tuner has to know how to set it correctly.

Yolk is fine, did not have to change it. I purchased a t56 from Mel Woods which came with cross member/mount. You will need to wire in to brake light switch for the reverse lockout.

Don't want to manually flick a switch each time I decide I want to pull out and over take. I have mashed the throttle on numerous occasions in the spur of the moment. There's always a gm product trying to run you. Or you need to merge into traffic, overtake some idiot that's causing a mile long traffic jam. Etc. Maybe alot easier with a auto where you don't have to reach for the shifter then grab the wheel to fight to keep it straight. Eg reach for a switch, select a lower gear then go. That auto gm just put a car length on you or going for a gap in the traffic. I want it to switch on when required. As I said earlier, my PLX o2 wideband/lambda gauge has warning as well as peak hold min and max values. It can also be connected to a data logger. So if one pump fails and iam wot the gauge will warn me. I think I can even Run a external warning light from it as well. I'm thinking of running one for oil pressure and the other for fuel. I'm also wanting to run a eboost2 so I can control boost per gear. I read that the eboost 2 can switch on pumps, and other things. That sorts the trigger for the second pump if I go with a twin pump setup.

No havn't fitted pw tank as yet. Was only running walbro in tank pump and only Feeding 12psi into the to4z setup. Being manual on street Tyres it struggled for traction as well fuel surged into 3rd gear even with 2/3 tank of fuel. 2.4sec 60ft, started to ping when slotted 3rd so got right off it, then decided to slowly feed throttle back in for 12.902 @ 116mph. A week or 2 after that I had number 6 rod shatter. So been building new engine since and not going to risk any fuel problems after spending good money. Danny I though you wouldn't get that much of a current draw. Wouldn't a decent battery cover the drain. If not what about running a higher amperage alternator. Running the boost presure switch to kick in the 2nd pump obviously is going to drain some power but if I run the voltage booster single pump it would still drain amperage. Is it feisable to drop fuel pump voltage on a large capacity pump to slow the flow at light throttle. Or will it strain the pump????? Or just run high capacity pump continuously with return going to fuel tank instead of back to surge tank. Less frothing and less heating of the fuel. So what's the best fuelling option to run for our cars that I won't have to sell a kidney for. Two options I'm concidering Bosch 044. $200 Msd voltage booster $400 Total. $600 Holley billet pump or twin 044's. $400 Boost switch. $060 Relays. $020 Total. $480 My mate jay previous owner of chop ya (hi Torque yellow bf f6 780rwhp monster) was running twin o44's at rear and I understand how loud they can be. I could here them over my engine at idle and that's me sitting in my car and his car beside me. ??????????????? Decisions

Found a 1-25psi boost switch that can be used to either switch on or off what ever you want to run. Eg water, methonal injection pumps, nitrous or my case switch 2nd fuel pump on. Only $35 US. Back to running twin pumps (billet holley twin unit) ????? Decisions....... Here's the link http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/p129/AIS-1-25-PSI-Adjustable-Boost-Pressure-Switches/product_info.html