01txr

I have just upgraded to Plazmaman Plenum & pipes, running GT Series HDI Cooler. Still fine tuning injectors (60lb Deka's). Running 15psi of boost but will be readjusting to 12 psi next tune load. Fuel Injector Minium Pulse Width is a problem as I can only set as far as .001 I am using the advantage 3 software - Racer Pro. Running at present with 14.6 to 15.8 Idle/cruise and WOT pre 2000rpm 13.3 with 12.4 WOT after 2500 Using Low Slope .02 as would not idle at your setting of .02142430 High Slope is set as per your setting of .02037564 With idle when cold it is at first running high 16's for approx 20seconds before settling to 14.6 to 15.8 I take it that the PCM is adjusting it to a safe AFR.

Yes I know the heads are pretty dam good for shape and flow Have been looking at the N/A head and can see a few area where I can get better flow mainly to cleaning up and a small amount off cutting here & there. More need to know what valves, seats and valve seats I need to run to handle the stress & heat of the turbo engine. Are the N/A seats and Valves the same spec as the Turbo head. Contacts and prices would be great as well, PM them through if need to be private. Would buying a LPG head be a worthwhile purchase as probably have better valves and seats then petrol variants. senna T could you get me a price on Turbo spec'd Valves & Seats if they are of a higher spec than the N/A Valves & Seats. had been thinking the crow cams but after my last cam I purchased from crow I have stayed away from there products. The cam in Question was one I purchased for a tuff alloy headed 4.1 crossflow into a cortina the journal radius's where not nicely machined and looked like the cutter had been jumping leaving a jaggered edge on all cam bearing journals. It still worked well but the finish should have been to a quality reflective of the price and reputation of the Crow Cams we have known them for. May not worry about cam change but then on the other hand doing the Valve train upgrade and having everything apart might as well do it while everything is apart. would be Interesting to know a few cam specs to workout which one to purchase/install for my setup and use. Engine is being built using OEM crank so revs are going to be limit due to this. Looking for a cam that will give more lift and maybe better Mid/Top end power Without to much sacrifice down low.

I want to start looking into trying to get closer to building my Big HP engine. Currently have the Argo 1200Hp rods and Ross Forged Pistons with total seal rings. I have a low K Engine for the rebuild. How do I tell if it is a BA or BF engine and are the N/A 6 Cams any better than the BA Turbo grinds. What is the best bang for your buck cams & Valve train to run, to suit street track BA XR6 Turbo with T56 Manual. If I decide to store my Original engine what is required to do the N/A Head to suit. I take it Exhaust Valves, and will be looking at Comp Cam Beehive Springs and retainers to suit. I will also be needing Balancer, Oil Pump Gears, Gaskets etc. Any Advice will be greatly appreciated.

What he probably is saying is that from a standard xr airbox, this is better for performance due to the fact the standard airbox is restricting flow. Sure enough he is getting hot air on the in take but at least he has plenty of flow. If his cooler is controlling temps to a reasonably temp then it will be a improvement. I have also tried this myself but not from the the same position, I ran mine from the flexi hose off the x-over. after a few runs on a hot night the pod was pretty hot. Unless you try it dont knock it. Its the cheapest way of improving flow. using the f6 intake or cutting holes in the airbox front behind the headlight would be a better option.

Has anyone checked out what PLX have for offer yet, they have just done a web page update and its a lot easier to find there products and info now. They have won multi awards for there technolgy of there products. Website http://plxdevices.com/ This page is the Kiwi Wifi: Engine Check scan tool, MPG and Fuel econ Gauges, Real time engine sensors, Data logging, customizable gauges etc http://www.plxkiwi.com/kiwiwifi/ Then you have there Data Logger http://plxdevices.com/datalogger.html And check the Multi Gauges out http://plxdevices.com/multigauges.html And no I dont work for them or on any commission in case you ask. I am referring them as I am very happy with my AFR Lambda Multigauge setup I have purchased from them. and just letting everyone else know of what they have on offer. They have 3 Australian dealers QLD Flash Tuning 5 Wayne Streey Walkerston QLD 4751 Australia (07) 4966 8028 www.flashtuning.com.au NT Auto Electrics 58 Wheeler Drive Mackay QLD 4740 Australia (07) 49428690 www.ntautoelectrics.com.au VIC VPW Distributor 122-128 Cooper Steet Epping Vic, 3076 Australia (03) 613 8405 9229 www.vpw.com.au

So did anyone check out the Black 8 second one on the dyno and the strip. Its a bit of a animal for a street car. The runs look way to long to be 1/8 . One of the clips shows 60ft of 1.19 so 1/8 would be approx 5 or less at a quick guess. Would love to own the black GT500, could just imagine it on the street. Nail it at 100k with MT Streets and fry them. Handy if cops chase you as would lose them in a smoke cloud. The slowest one on there clip would be nearly as quick as our Fastest street T's if not quicker.

Theres a few others as well, Check out the black one under- First 2007 Shelby GT500 In The 8's...! Some track and dyno runs and looks to be streeter to. rootster - I know there are quicker stangs but are they street or pro street cars. Not bad times concidering our tuff 6's are 2 seconds off there pace. Now if only Ford Aust would build a stang eqivilent. Twin Turbo or Blown 8, nothing compares.

Sweet - want one so bad.

Nice bit of gear Straughsberry, I want the lot. Have to look for a better job first. Does anyone know exactly how good these spin up for balance. are they good for big rpms. Would have to be a dam sight better than the factory lump. HIPWRED - Keep everyone posted on your progress on your engine build. And will be good to see your results from it all. Close the thread, WTF it would be good to find out all options of what is available.

All good with better oil flow when cooler in temp, I would think though if you was to WOT your car before it was up to temp it would cause harm due to the loads being to great for a low vis oil. I think Ford recommend that spec for that reason. It will come down to how you treat your car to weather it would be safe or not. If Ford have set oil changes at 15 000 why not just buy the oil from them at 7500 and do a mid change in between services, my choice would be to change at 5000k's. I know what you mean by 15 000, its a lot concidering I do my changes at 5000 and I use Syn not a minerial as per ford. If you do change to a non Ford oil make sure you stay with what ever you use and have Ford do like wise. I would change to a Full Syn oil at approx 20 000k's if it was my car. What trans noise & when? Is car Auto or Manual? If the later get use to the noise as it comes with the manual. doubt it would be any bushes.

Sorry about that, I dont know why I though that, when you mentioned Wastegate. What you mean yes and no? If it does it is obvisiously the Actuator. Try locking it shut hard with tie wire or zip tie then see what happens. If you where local I could put my Vac checker on it for you to see what it actually is doing. If it doesnt build boost then well maybe you need to drop the exhaust and check the flapper valve for seating and if any cracks or damage is evident. Make sure the swing arm is free in movement and that the flapper seats.

Bloody mungr*l was thinking the cat was gone. Actually thinking about it if the cat starts clogging up with carbon then boost is going to be restricted. Whats the actual life of say a X-Force Cat, anyone have one completely fail yet. Jusy wondering have you cleaned the o2 sensor or maybe it needs replacing. Maybe causing wrong readings with the PCM and limiting boost. Or check all sensor plug fittings for connection and that none have got corrossion in them or any fluid on them as well as earthing. Maybe something not reading correctly causing your boost problem. Try finding out all sensor specs and checking them.

senna T, Doesn't matter if the stock BOV is wrong way or not, mine is fitted the opposite way. All that seems to happen is it is louder. Still runs up to 15psi tapers back to 12psi. One thing I had noticed is back when my x- force was fitted near 2 years ago It would over boost to 21 psi first time WOT after 5mins driving then everytime after that it would go 15 tapered to 12. this was 6am mornings during winter with stock cooler. It stopped doing that now but dont know why. I never changed anything. Even with the new tune it hasn't ever boosted higher than 15psi. Never had IC out so maybe it is blocked up with dirt or the Boost solinoid maybe causing it. Dont know if its just me getting use to its power and thinking it is slower now or it just is. Use lift in 2nd & 3rd to the point the tyres felt like they where right on the edge of traction 2nd and 3rd gear right to 5500rpm. Since then I have changed to the t56, CI Twin Plate and better rubber. just mentioning all this as maybe something is deteriorating with time and I may also be limited at a certain boost level like you are. Engine seems good with oil control and vacume still pulling 25hg. May have to plumb up a Fuel pressure gauge to see what pressure the injectors are getting under load. Maybe fuel pumping issue. There is so many varibles with these cars its amazing. Not like the old Carb'd V8's and 6's where you just get the timing correct and the carb and jets correct and away they go.

just out of curosity with all the intake mods you have done, have you adjusted injector high and low slopes? Just that I was running mine slightly incorrect with adaptive learning enabled. What I think it may have been doing is by passing boost via wastegate do to the noise I was getting till approx 3500 rpm where it started making boost having 15psi at 4500taper straight back off to 12 psi. since making some injector adjustments and turning adaptive learning off Iam now getting 5psi by 2500 and 15psi by 3000rpm. What I think is maybe the PCM is protecting the engine by keeping AFR's correct so therefore it bleeds off boost til it can handle it AFR wise. Just my thoughts, dont know how correct I maybe. also running 12 psi actuator and 12psi tune.

I just changed the Accel settings in my car, no probs before or after with run on, just was trying to get rid of the after a WOT complete throttle off my AFR flicks to 10 for a nano second or more then goes to 16s before setting to a idle cruise 14.7 to 15.1 Also tried dash pot adjustment but have only had a quick try with adjustment. Car is running well with no issues in the tune. Is it normal or is there something else I need to look at. This is with the Nizpro drilled injectors you gave me injector values for. Also the previous tune I ran before I richened up the tune today and turned off the Adaptive learning ran 12.1 WOT and 14.6-15.1 idle cruise. New tune is still running same AFR's even though I decreased values marginally for high and low injector slopes. However my boost seems to be coming on before 2500 to 12psi (6th gear)where as previous tune was 3500+ Would that be something in the tune protecting the engine by use of the wastegate because if it did boost with the injector settings it would run lean. Was seeming to bleed boost out via wastegate by the sound it was making. now it is not making the sound like leaking boosted air. Also if people are running oddessay battries like self, mine runs like 14 to 16v this would also feed more fuel or wont it due to the voltage. Danny I cant PM you due to message sending problem, so will ask you here, could you advise me on how to get the launch control to function. I have tried everything the manual says to set and more with no luck. Car 2003 BA XR6T with a T56 fitted was orig T5 and am using advantage 3 Pro Racer software. I can get it to come on, but it wont switch off. EG set it at 3500 and it works but also driving it comes on whenever I rev to 3500rpm. that is even when running the off as 0 mph, 10mph, 20mph. If you can help can you PM me a email address so I can communicate with you. that way I dont ruin your thread here by going off track.

I have had a Ford 4.1 Crossflow crank shear off just behind the timing chain. What I put it down to was how I would always give it quick hits to WOT and off. hence causing the timing chain to pull tight and then go slack, causing stress and flex to the crankshaft. This is also common with supercharged cars that run crank supports. I use to rev the 4.0 regularly to 7000rpm, lasted just over 1 year before breaking the crank. These crankshafts where also prone to flexing due to the length which I would say our 4.0 cranks are to but maybe nowhere as bad due to engineering inprovements in design and material. Hope that may help with some insight into how cranks can break. If someone chooses not to share any info so be it, that's there choice, just be greatful when they do and appreciate it. not everything is gospel, also everything is always different for the next person or variable. if people are knocking anything and everything people say then who will give out info. back on subject let us all know how you go with Craig Brown on weather he can build crankshafts for us guys or not.

Theres is a setting for Manual and auto is off. It should be all correct as on the load with adjustments all auto settings are off. It seems odd but there maybe something in the tune somewhere that is incorrect and causing some sort of conflict. Problem is finding what setting. I have set that error setting to 0, to max and a few inbetween and nothing resolve's. I have even turned traction off and selected ABS as the speed sensing. The manual says to set to 65 if your car has TC, if it doesn't set to ABS 66 and if it doesn't have either there is one more, may try it next tune I load but it doesn't seem to be that according to the manuals suggestions. I know my tyres plant well as to the tracks it leaves. Maybe different if I had shorter bump stops and maybe softer rate rear springs. There was a photo from boost cruising? on my launch and it didn't seem to squat much at all but maybe the photographer didnt catch it at the right time either. Just made some more adjustments to my injector slopes and a few other settings today. It seemed to be coming on boost approx 1000rpm earlier and turning the tyres coming on boost in 2nd. It feels very good now and I have got it driving in 6th at under 60k with no struggle. Yesterday I noticed it to even struggle at 60k in 5th on tune from willowbank last weekend. Just hope it is not only due to the cool weather today though.

I have seen at Beenleigh Autobarn 7x5 Hertz componant set up. sounded pretty good in the demo board. By memory not to dear. I have gone with a set of clarion 6.5 componants, yet to be fitted so better be good. Sounded orsm in Clarion reps vehicle.

Yes these quite turbo six's at the track are hard to hear so have to really concerntrate on feel on the launch. So easy to either bog down or as I have done 2 times in 2 meets near stall having to cluch again and get going. Or the complete opposite and either fry the tyres or the clutch if a bit slow getting off the pedal as boost comes on. cant beleive people are having success with low pressure street tyres, its never worked for me. Even with my v8 Falcons and Cortina running 50 to 60 profile tyres. Would not even think about doing on my 30 profile 265 Toyo's, not much between the tarmac and the rim little than decreasing air pressure. Already had a sidewall split on a half worn Toyo from a deflate. Not cheap at $465 a tyre. I think I just will never get off the line till I fit slicks, then lookout driveshafts. Plus have to get the axle tramp under control. If I can get the launch control to function I may be able to improve the 60ft. Reading and looking through the manual and SCT Racer Pro software it all seems possible to do but I have asked SCT, the company I purchased Xcal2 and Racer pro package and have not got any answers. It would be great to set the rpm and the speed for turn off. I could say set 3500rpm drop the clutch it stays on the limiter till speed I set it at, say 20kph and then hell yeah full noise all the way. Will only be a matter of setting to suit track and conditions. I have tried so many options in trying to get it functioning. I get it to work but it wont turn off, so it is as if the rev limiter is set to a constant 3500rpm or where ever I set the rpm. I have tried everything as per manual, tried turning off traction control and anything that may possible interfer with it functioning. tried setting for Traction Control, ABS using codes 65 & 66. so if any can help who knows how to get it to function correctly dont be shy. Another thing I cant seem to get rid of is when I load tune to the Xcal2 via with adjustments I get a error - Unknown speed limit on item output_shaft_speed_limit_auto_trans Weather that has any effect on the Launch Control or not. I have tried numerous settings to try to get rid of that error. It maybe normal being a manual car as my generic tune does it also.

Just hook up a solinoid under your seat with a huge spring load needle. Just always remember to deactivate it before sitting in your car. check the web and I had also noticed in a car magazine a company selling them.

Try a place on tradelink rd browns plains, think its called crankshaft engineering. Last I heard was a guy by the Name of Craig Brown was owner or co owner. This guy use to own a street VW beetle that ran 11.7 N/A back in the late 80's to early 90's, held the ssc class record for 2-3 years. He is suppose to know his trade well s I have heard other resources recommend him. he use to work for a VW Workshop that I ended up working at after he left. use to go in and bug them all the time before he left and I started there.

So What actual tyres you using and your 11.2 @126mph what rubber was you using. I will evenually get MT Streets for mine once I get a hold of some 15 to 16" rims.

Your a legend. You helped me get on the right path with the Nizpro drilled injectors, & I am planning to change to the Deka's this weekend, what timing. Cheers & Big thanks for your help.

Just wondering if the site is having problems or somethink on my end. I have replied to a few messages and it looks as if all is fine with the successful screen popping up. But check my sent messages and they arnt there and my useage has stayed at 82% for the last 5-6 messages I have replied to. I have sent messages with both Laptop & my work PC which I am on at present. Help please.

Also if you want another opinion on the PLX AFR/Lambda setup in my car, LION ETR has seen it and seen functions RIP85 has also viewed it but dont think I showed him the functions off memory. If you are local or passing my way you are welcome to come and have a look. Iam at Boronia heights QLD (West of logan City) QLD South East Will give contact by PM. And maybe I should have set up a deal with PLX on a batch of gauges to sell. maybe if you would tell them who put you on to them if you purchase a item from them, maybe I can get them to look after me abit on my next purchase.