01txr

Wasnt she (Eva) the one off that cop show cant recall the name of the show, the one with gary sweet in, he had a fling with her then she left him for the head cop. Or am I just getting to distracted by her beauty and ravashing & loveable body.

To get a car to hook up is it not better to use a heavy spring but keep the shock a bit softer on Bump. Maybe stiffer on rebound to help it leap out of the squat? that's how I have always looked at it. By doing it like that it also keeps the ride smoother as with a very stiff shock it will ride very harsh.

Tyre Power charged me $465 each for 265x30x19's and I found a guy on ebay who sells them, looks like he is a tyre shop as always selling tyres and wheels. From him I paid $250 each but the postage was the big killer at $120. That was the first ones he had sold as he hadnt had any advertised till I asked him what he could get that would hold 300rwkw. These have lasted me over 5000 k's so far and that's with 13 runs at willowbank with at least 3 skids in 2nd passing the christmas tree and another 5-6 just shy of the tree and a few show offs here and there, with regular turning the tyres coming on boost 1st and 2nd near everyday. However since fitting my plazmaman plenum piping and HDI cooler I dare say these are wearing a lot quicker. Prob about half tread left. I have seen he still sells them at $580 a pair plus postage pending your locality. Strange thing is he sells the 265x30x20's for $500 a pair. Smaller size's maybe cheaper with the exception of above. Seller is St.george tyres online feedback 1118 for 100% rating Easy to find by doing a search for Toyo. Have a look at his other auctions to. If he hasnt got the size you need just send him a message and ask, he may be able to get them and list them for you. Since I have added approx a extra 80-100rwkw the proxy 4's are starting to struggle so I am going to try the Yokohama Advan's in a 275x30x19 next or the pirelli's he had at one time advertised. Will be interesting if I can find something that will hold traction with a 380rwkw + manual T. Was thinking of Semi Slicks as well but looks like you need to shave and sand them regular for them to keep good traction. Also back when I had 300rwkw I was going to go the Proxy T1's but the Toyo Rep on the line to the guy at tyrepower asked him if I would prefer the Proxy 4's as they where near identicle in traction to the T1's but would give higher mileage. I said sounds good and yes. I was so happy with them after those crap nangkangs came off, no standard VE ss would ever get the jump on me again due to lack of traction. If anyone does purchase from this guy, tell him to look after 01txr for sending him business his way for when I call him for my rears that is once my proxys are burnt away.

Stiffer rear spring rate then should sort it, but might not transfer the weigth to the rear enough to get traction. Try to see if you can get a dual rate spring setup which will help it squat to where it is needed but stiffen enough to stop it going to low as the stiffer spring loads up. I still dont think you will get coil overs in the standard position due to room. maybe if it is possible to run coil overs where the springs are without upsetting any geometry that may be a option. Dont know how air bags would work, never heard off anyone using them for strip work to any advantage. I have used air shocks on a XY and a V8 cortina I had and by dropping the pressure in them found them to help hook up. was a cheaper option back years ago for me. maybe try something like that and just play with the pressure to get it in the sweet spot. Other than that just go talk to a reputable suspension shop. If you do find a coil for the rears let us all know.

my brother has just bought a set of Ku 31's for his standard FG XR6T 6Auto and his last launch at willowbank saw him turn them for the 60ft from lock to lock. I would not buy them after seeing him turn them on the strip that easy in a standard T. Also some guy was selling some tyres on ebay and he had a list of a tyre comparisment of ten tyres and the Kumho Ecsta KU 31's came 9th. I have had my Maxxis on the front now for a week, and cant fault them for a front steer tyre, I have driven them in pooring down rain where others had slowed to 70 - 80 k and they didnt aqua plane in the slightest. I even ran through near rivers going across the motorway, only response was you could feel the rolling resistance increase. I have had to also brake & swerve to miss a car in front of me the other day as some idiot who decided to stop at a green light as approaching at 70k. After doing so I found that the tyre's where well up to it and I would have not even had to swerve, I was just being causious not knowing how well these maxis work. Also had another idiot run a red light and I had to slam the brakes on to avoid him. I am very happy with the maxis so far especially after having one of the best steer tyres on the front in the way of Yokohama advan's. One thing that really amazed me was with the Advan's even being just off the legal depth indicators, in pouring rain on the motorway they still did not aqua plane, Just hope the Maxxis can near perform like them as the tread wears. One bugger was I just found out today that maxxis dont do a bigger than 245x19 in a 30 series 19, I was going to try them on the rear when the Toyo Proxy 4's wore out. Looks like Advan's will go on the rear when required for a try. $580 a piece. that's my opinion, do some searching for tyre comparo's and make your decissions from there.

I run 19's Found Toyo Proxy 4's to be very good, a little bit noisier than the Maxis Mav1's I just fitted to my front. grip was orsm with the Proxy 4's on the rear before I did my upgrade to Plazmaman Plenum, Deka injectors, HDI Cooler etc. I was running over 275rwkw and they would only turn a small amount in first coming on boost and grip all gears after. Cornering stability was also great as well as wet weather. I had dropped clutch at 4500rpm at the strip and got a fair bit of wheel spin in first but hooked up and kept traction into 2nd. Downside is cost at $465 each. the Maxis at front replaced my Yoko advan's which where orsm but also a costly tyre. I have noticed the Maxis to be quiter than the yoko's and wet weather seems as good so far. havn't done any hard turn ins as yet to report on that. Bob jane told me they wont perform as good as the advan's but I will get more miles from them. I got like 20 000 plus from the advan's. the Maxis where on special for $249 for 245x35x19. I purchased on Tuesday just past. Also had some maxis on a 351w V8 Cortina back in 2000 and found them to out perform the previous Yoko A4's as well last twice as long. Bang for buck, I would go Maxis. Want to spin top gear buy Nangkangs.

cant fit coil overs to rear because of lack of room to do so. Unless you change shock position (Not advisable). Is your car auto or manual? If you are bogging down means you have traction, give it more revs. if auto get a higher stall convertor. Or another thing would be to run lower gears to help it off the line. Another option would be to strip out the car to lighten it as less weight is easier to get off the line. that's where your mates with rice cars get the advantage.

Got a set of ROH Strada's 3 piece wheels with tyres all under 3000k old since new. They cost over $4500 and will sell for $1300 if you are interested. They are 18x8's with 245 rubber. Located QLD Southeast. PM me if interested. If not go the Lenso Tenzo DC5 Charcoal Grey or second choice Dark Agents with your car being white they will set it off nicely.

Yes I have the Aircond pipe out of the way, but the fitting that attaches to the condensor is the problem. It is a solid block of alloy on the end of the pipe that connects to the condensor which has another solid block protruding from it. Only way I can see to move it would be to have a Aircond Shop cut and weld a pipe coming off it away from the IC. I will try to explain it as best I can by word. Start with the condensor, on the left hand side of the car it has a block of alloy protruding from the cooler which is the opposite outlet/inlet to the pipe that can be bent out of the way. This block is black in colour, It then has another block that attaches to it with a raw alloy pipe. it protrudes from the left side of the block and has a green paint mark on it. On looking down at it if I was to trim the lip off the bumper support it may allow the cooler to come forward enough to clear it. Looks like it needs to move to the front approx 15mm. maybe the end tanks with my HDI Cooler are wider than the plazmaman tanks, this being my problem in fit. Also the tanks on the HDI IC come straight out which ment I had to remove the excess metal from the chassis rails to the first spot weld for the silicone pipes to clear. From looking at the pictures of the plazmaman IC it looks as if it angles down past these protruding chassis rail excess bits. probably should have just saved for the plazmaman cooler, as it sounds like it fits easier. Anyway The price differance is huge and a friend who has gone the Plazmaman cooler kit on a very similiar car setup to mine ran slower than me last time out to the drags. So the HDI Cooler must work well even though it is about 1/4 the price of the plazmaman cooler not to mention I was also having fuelling problems. may have to have a closer look at his setup next time to see how it all fitted up compared to my setup.

Yes prob got a BA-BF screen. I have run my BA for 30 000 plus K's with no filter screen with no problems. I do however change my oil at 5000k intervals using Havaline Syn then last service I changed to Castrol Syn. I also use Purolator oil filters as they are suppose to be the best filtering OEM replacement Filter on the market. Or if you really must have a filter setup, contact ETM for there replacement setup.

Just wondering about the Aircond fitting which is attached to the condensor, just fitted a HDI cooler and it was the only thing stopping me from moving the cooler towards the left hand side. So my cooler sits slightly off center. The Plazmaman cooler looks as wide so how did you get it to sit central.

Its set to 0.500 Danny I have only found This under Engine Temp Limits / Exhaust Temp / Exhaust Flange Temp Load @ 500rpm 0.200 - 750.0 0.400 - 920.0 0.600 - 1100.0 0.800 - 1170.0 1.000 - 1255.0 1.400 - 1275.0 Load @ 2000rpm 0.200 - 1200.0 0.400 - 1340.0 0.600 - 1400.0 0.800 - 1440.0 1.000 - 1540.0 1.400 - 1650.0 Load @ 3000rpm 0.200 - 1280.0 0.400 - 1430.0 0.600 - 1540.0 0.800 - 1630.0 1.000 - 1660.3 1.400 - 1780.0 Load @ 4000rpm 0.200 - 1400.0 0.400 - 1510.0 0.600 - 1645.0 0.800 - 1670.0 1.000 - 1700.0 1.400 - 1790.0 Load @ 5000rpm 0.200 - 1450.0 0.400 - 1590.0 0.600 - 1660.0 0.800 - 1730.0 1.000 - 1800.0 1.400 - 1880.0 Load @ 6000rpm 0.200 - 1448.0 0.400 - 1560.0 0.600 - 1690.0 0.800 - 1800.0 1.000 - 1870.0 1.400 - 1910.0 Also Think I may have been running more boost down the track as I set the wastegate to 100% instead of 90% where I usually have it set. Noticed on the way home when I gave it a squirt in 3rdmandn pulled approx 5 lengths on my brothers FG XR6Turbo, boost went to 20psi. Maybe the Fuel pump letting it down at that boost. Everytime today When I WOT it, it ran clean and 12.1 AFR, mine you it wasn't from stand still through to 4th gear. Thinking Fuel pump may not have the flow needed. I will be fitting a surge tank and 044 pump next up. This running at good afrs then going very rich is odd. It just does it randomly back and forth, eg say drive on 80k road stop at lights its reading 14.6's then next set pull up it is reading 11.9's, it does it while cruising also. I think when I give it some WOT it returns good for a while then back rich. So maybe some sort of Airflow, fuel temp setting adjusting it to rich due to the mods done. had a look at my generic 10psi tune compared with my 12psi generic and there is lots of differances. This tells me I must need to make more adjustments to bring my original 12psi with the Deka injector up to a correct setup. It would be good if there was descriptions for all settings in Advantage3 or the manual. It just might make things understandable a little at least. Will send my tune file for you to check over whenever you are ready danny. Just dont let any of my secrets out or we may have lots of others cars running risky like mine LOL.

Your telling me, I will have a look when I get home. Think I have find the reason behind the AFR's moving around, think it is all because of the Boost control solinoid. It basically started clicking when I did the change of the Plenum, pipe work, IC & Deka's. Rechecked for any fault codes and still nothing there.

Why not have some fun when you have been left at the start line. Would much prefer to throw a car around at low speeds at the begining of the track than to try and do it at well over 100kph towards the end of the track. The last time I went out, I had the standard cooler on mine and the humidity was like 90% Launch and did a nice snake away from the line, the monaro in the right lane got out to near 2 lengths on me, got traction then caught him and passed him. Orsm feeling snaking off the line just gets a little more scary when your car moves around on you at high speeds. I was the person who taught my little Brother (Lion Etr) how to drift cars at over 160kph In some tuff cars I had handed down to him. Was a bit scary seeing him behind the wheel the first couple of times I must admit.

No didnt scare me, I was already nearing half track, seen him having fun in the rearview. Had to purchase some new tyres for my fronts today and was going to get the same as my brothers got (Kumo Esta's) but changed my mine after his lack of grip at the track. Ended up going for some Maxis MA-1Z 's on special for $249 each. Hope they are near as good as my Yoko Advans they replaced. The guy on the bike in front of me just before I was about to warm the tyres would have not to mention a huge bruised ass and ego. Sitting there watching him, seen him get near verticle and said to myself his gone. that's the differance between a good rider and a average rider, the good rider would have lightly tapped the rear brake to bring it down. it was a slow flip (Meaning it didn't lift instantly) and would have been able to avoid it if he could ride. That guy needs to learn more clutch and brake control.

No probs of any video posted up of my car. Whats the link for it if you have already done so, its not showing on my screen on any of these replies.

Hey RIP, didnt tell everyone how you where handed 2 big losses from me then chickened out for the 3rd run. LOL All fun, glad you got your 12, and I was of some assistance in getting you there. Got some work ahead of you once I sort the fuelling issues out, have to get your tuner to up your power. How this with all the guys talking about my little brothers stepping out on that last run. Mate just off the phone and had a big laugh as we have always driven like that. defaintly no dirty pants for him.

Thanks Danny you are a great help, switched off min / max values. I have run the settings you have suggested. Looks good Idle WOT seems a little slow to get to low 12s. Yes I have just been watching the PLX Wideband AFR/Lambda gauge for readings so far. Will have to do some data logging to check all you have mentioned. Did 3 runs at the drags Saturday night with first run pinging in 3rd, got off it and back into it after I selected 4th, ran 12.902 at 116mph. Not bad concidering I was doing soft launch's 2.3's and being a manual. 2nd run I gave it 4% Fuel at WOT and it didnt ping but surged in 4th. I was running 3/4 tank of fuel and found it to be odd. Did one last run and found it to do the same so that was it for the night. Fuel AFR was 12.2 WOT everyrun with no leans while WOT. also noticed on the way out it would be sitting on 14.6 to 15.2 then all of a sudden it would start running high 11 to mid 12's. thinking that Boost sensor to the wastegate maybe causing these issues, due to its ticking sound I have told yous about. Its not a gauge issue as the instant fuel mileage also corresponds to it. When it was running 14.6 to 15.2's I was getting 6.8 litres to the 100 then when it changed it climbed to 14 litre's per 100k. Also pulled out and over took a vehicle on the way out while running 11 to 12 AFR's and it pinged. turn aircond off wound down window and tested for pinging again and not once, the AFR had also returned to 14.6 to 15.2 AFR. Thinking that what ever maybe causing it may be the reason of the AFR's changing and the problem from the track. I checked for any fault codes and nothing there.

yes will start data logging soon, just wasnt to sure what I should be data logging. What is STFT and LTFT's , only new at all this computor management stuff. What I have done so far is run a preloaded tune that didn't work in the fuel delivery, I had been told to start with getting the fuel right first then start working the spark tables. Spark seems pretty good as it is not showing any signs of ping when at high 13 AFR's witch suggest to me I can give it some more timing once I have the AFR's right. What is the go with the Lambda being 1 at idle and cruise shouldn't it be at .82 at all times where Fuel is ment to run? I will try to find the options to disable min/max and try your settings again to see where it goes. On my boost control, it seems the Desired Boost is not contrfolling boost as I previously suggested it was due to Wastegate percentage. Just tried to run 6psi last night and it still made 15psi. Is there other options in controlling boost other than the wastegate. The Wastegate sounds as if it is working overtime and feels slow. is there a better way or do I just live with it. I have had it making 9psi with 70% of wastegate.

If you arnt using the FG F6 Turbo I will have it... LOL Good power there.

I had the previous set fitted, no damper adjustment manually, built in damping control. Within 12mths front right leaking, left has just started to rattle. car has never driven straight since wanting to follow road contours eg grooves in road from heavy vichicles. this maybe due to there crap setting up suspension though. Hope they work well for you and your dealer knows how to set it up.

I am setting the boost with the desired boost table. Been thinking it maybe that as I have boost at 0 to 200f at 1000rpm set at 3psi. Maybe the turbo is making more than 3psi at idle which also does not seem right as it is at 20 - 25hg vac. I was thinking this as being the case, but if so why isnt the wastegate actuator also moving with the clicking coming from the sensor. I take it that is its function that once at a set boost level it controls the wastegate to open by allowing vacume to the actuator to do so. I have had my Plazmaman Plenum and HDI Cooler for a long time now & have never bothered to fit it being scared of boost spiking or being able to control boost. Well I have been able to control boost via the desired Boost Table & with Wastegate percentage via the Xcal 2 handset. as far as I am aware it is running standard Flapper and may have a 12psi Actuator. haven't fitted the new 15psi actuator as yet, will leave it for my good engine. The reason Iam concerned about the stainless wire is because I can recall years ago having some problem related to stainless wire. Cant recall what it was though. May have been something to do with interferance to a electronic ignition. Headsex how confident are you on the Fuel Injector Minium Pulse Width 1.391(ms) as the advantage 3 software wont allow me to .001391(Seconds) my maxium setting of .001(seconds) is as far as it allows. Is there somewhere the maxium can be changed.

Ok I have got it pretty close now, the lowering of Low Slope Values did not help on their own. What I ended up doing is lowering the Low Slope value to 0.01999 and raised the Battery Volt Offset table x multipling it by 1.1 I have kept the Fuel Injector Minium Pulse Width to my maxium setting of .001 What I get now is 12.4 WOT with 13.2 at low revs WOT After hard WOT instant backoff sits on 12.4 tapering to 13.4. cruise is on slighly mid 13's with off throttle 14.6 Idle is 14.7 - 15.4 still being forced I think due to maybe slight lean. I think I may have to lower the low slope a bit more because if I hold clutch in say from driving 2nd 0r 3rd gear by time I come to a stop it is running high 16's. It doesn't do this if I slow normally gearing down. next tune I load will be running 0.018 low Slope to see if the roll to stop improves. Then I will raise the value of the High Slope to try to get AFR to 12.1 WOT On inspection in my engine bay I have found the Boost senor near the battery is clicking continiously like a very noisy injector. Could this be a result of a setting change or maybe a wrong wire when I extended the other boost senor from the UBP to the pipe after the IC. Also the wires for this senor are stainless, would using copper wires to extend it result in any problems. (And yes wires have been soldered and heat shrink sealed) Once again top end is fantastic with it hitting the 6200rpm limiter before I even realise or dropping in power. Feels like it will push hard way past the 6200 cut I have set. Dont worry wont be reving it past that and I will also be setting a 10 psi tune at 5500 rpm for street driving with my 15 psi tune for track only till I finish my good engine.

Will give your settings above ago tonight or tomorrow morning, I have changed the low slope at present but was running late for work so didn't get a chance to load it in as yet. I will load in the tune for my tip home from work and see how the Low Slope adjustment responded. If that fails I will try your settings as above. Only new to all this tuning of computor injected cars so thanks for any assistance. The manual doesn't seem to give information for a lot of settings. Just curious also what does the Fuel Injector Minium Pilse Width do, Does it set the length or time the valve opens in the injector? I take it the breakpoint is where the injector changes from low to high slope. What range should the low slope cover, eg idle,cruise to what rpm. The high slope would come in when WOT and at a certain rpm if Iam thinking correctly. Please explain if I am thinking off track. Also I run my car on BP Ultimate. All help is very appreciated Thank you.

Yes 60lb Deka's, fuel should be fine as I have run it to 6200 in 3rd with 12.4 AFR all the way. Pump is a unknown Walbro previous owner fitted. problem is Idle and Low RPM Cruise and WOT Idle is fluctuating 14.6 to 15.8 cruise similar instant off throttle goes anywhere upto 18's with WOT at 2000rpm 13.3 (No Det) and from approx 3000 up 12.4. I have found adjusting the Base Fuel table has got me to richer idle/cruise. Base Fuel Table is so closely adjusted now. TP0 @1000 .928 to TP500 .868 TP0 @3000 .882 to TP500 .811 TP0 @6000 .911 to TP500 .800 If this is commanded lambda it confuses me as tried setting all to .82 and all that happened was a very all over the place fuel AFR reading. If it is Stoichiometric Air Fuel Ratio it is set to 14.639. What I was on about with the :- (Fuel Injector Minium Pulse Width is a problem as I can only set as far as .001 I am using the advantage 3 software - Racer Pro.0 Is that the Advantage 3 wont let me adjust to 1.391 (ms) or as with the program .001391. .001 is at its maxium setting. I am thinking this maybe why I have lean idle/cruise. When I first fitted the Plazmaman gear I tested it with old tune still loaded which resulted in extreme rich 10 Flat AFR's off idle drive with 10.7 Idle, cruise was low 11's with WOT being 11.9's. This tune was running extremely well if 14.6-15.1 was good idle cruise with WOT 2000rpm 12.4 going to 12.1 WOT from approx 2500rpm. Those settings where Fuel injector breakpoint 0.0000165 Fuel Injector Hi Slope 0.0190000 Fuel Injector Low Slope 0.0154999 Fuel Injector Minium Pilse Width 0.0003999 Fuel Injector Minium Pilse Width 0.0003999 being alot smaller value than the Deka setting but with the voltage table settings is this suppose to even out or maybe my fuel pump is low on flow but has pressure to support up high. Therefore the lower value low slopes I used to the ones you suggested for the nizpro injectors being the reason. I am going to lower the value of the Lowslope and see what happens from there. Will post you on the outcome tomorrow. By the way fitting the Plazmaman plenum and pipe work with the HDI cooler has made a huge differance. Have to think of fitting semi slicks now. its turning the 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's hard coming on boost in second. Going to watch out for broken driveshafts now. will do a 8-10psi tune for street use so the standard fragile motor doesn't let a rod fly before my good engine goes in.