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Matt hope you had the springs installed at recommend heights. When ever I fit new springs I always check installed heights and adjust using shims. And if you have a valve spring tester even better as it can help you to set them at there correct seat pressure. One spring may require a larger shim to the next so on. It all comes down to how well matched and made the springs you are installing. Your mechanic friend probably had done this hopefully and not just did a swap without at the least installing them to recommended installed height.

Just wondering if this will be available without dump pipe as I have a custom top mount and TO4Z with external gate. Will need it to Suit BA XR6T. Price without the dump pipe please.

I'm running the GT Series 600x300x75 on my BA XR 6 and in comparisment I went to the drags with a friend who is running a PW cooler but near identical everything else in a BF F6. Mine when a few tenths quicker. I also had to short shift 3rd as it started to ping and got back on it steadily in 4th. My car is tune by myself the other was tuned by a reputable shop and said to have 380rwkw. I am pretty happy with its performance. With my cooler it didn't come as a kit and I fitted it up higher enough so I can still get the under tray on. To do so I had to remove some material at the front of the chassis rails so the hoses could fit. A better option would be to have the outlets cut and welded at a angle as per other big coolers to fit the falcon. Well worth the money.

youtube serch the ford gt and gt500 and you will see plenty of clips showing the 5.4L to be a pretty good package with plenty making inexcess of 1000rwhp in street cars. Cant be to bad concidering majority show the gm cars the way home. 5.4L Defeats 6.0L When is the FG going to get its credit deserved The ve got wheels car of the year and the FG is nearly better in every department and doesn't win. BS 5.4L modern engine over old pushrod 6.0L everyday Stick a Kendall Bell on a 5.4L and easy big power with street manners. If only Ford AU would build and sell some blown 5.4's

Just get ETM or similar oil feed set up. Ford replacement will nearly cost you as much anyway. Say you replace the factory pipe, filter every 50 000 to 60 000k's well the etm set up would have saved you money as well your turbo. My turbo nearly siezed at 90 000k, pulled the factory filter out to find it 3/4 clogged. So rough estimate it would be around half clogged at 60 000k. the factory filter is very tiny and it probably should be changed every oil change for your turbo to get required oil. probably changed after a week from new due to engine bedding in and sand casting and anything else that may contaminate the filter element. With the ETM set up or similar you can just clean the filter element each oil change and if needed maybe replace the filter element every 50 000k. The filter would be near 1/3 the price of the factory filter. Revheadrobbo, you have 1000k before you need to replace your turbo lol Mine started to get noisy at 126 000k 36 000k from when It nearly siezed & I ditched the factory filter and ran no oil line supply filter at all. It would have been on borrowed time since it nearly siezed.

Spot on there Zap. My generic tune for my catch code is used with modifications to required areas. I have built on from there or from the tune I was supplied with my Xcal2 and racer Pro package. Fair enough if a tuner who is turning out better and more consistant tunes well be it they should charge a little extra, as you get what you pay for. In what bluprinturbo says it should be the other way around, C&V have results so they should be charging the dearer price. If you wanted to purchase a package from C&V just ask them if they can give you a unlocked start off tune so you can have a local tuner fine tune it to suit your car. Weather they will let out any tune secrets would be up to them. or see it they have a workshop in a area close to you that they trust to fine tune there package. Other than that there is a dealer that can supply you with the same set up I have purchased and he may also give you a start off tune to help you get started. From what I feel, no one will spend the time or effort in tuning your car more than yourself. It is not a easy thing to pick up how to do, but software comes with a manual and you get support from SCT. They also have a forum. You will need to have a AFR/Lambda gauge to keep a eye on AFR's as well learn the dignostics function and tuning. It isn't for everyone, and I advise people to look in to it before purchasing a package. If you have no idear on how a engine functions and how to at least tune a carburated vehicle then stay clear and find a good tuner you can trust to do your tuning.

Ok could some tell me what are current cost to tune a carb'd, mechanical distributor non computor car? My point being is our computor controlled cars should be a lot cheaper to tune as being less mechanical tuning done, eg changing jets, air bleeds, advance springs and weights etc where as with our cars its a matter of just changing value settings to acheive the same out come. fair enough its all new tech and not everyone can do it and that it is very complex to work out what values and settings to run but come on how do some tuners justify what they have charged. 6 hrs of tunning fair enough if the car is tuned from scratch with no genernic start off tune. If a tuner starts with a generic tune it should take less than half that time to tune a car unless they arn't confident in tuning. Sure there is tuners out there that are doing the right thing, and your always going to get the ones that will cut corners and just do a quick tune that they know you will be happy with as most of us not in the know wouldn't know any better. Eg I though my tune on my car when I purchased it was pretty good as it went so much harder than and standard T. It wasn't till I started to tune it myself I had relised the previous tuners hadn't done a very good job. My car idled at 1000rpm with a random miss, I got it to idle a silk smooth 650rpm It ran mid 10 liters per 100k highway, I got it to 8.8 liters highway I also picked up power going from 13.9 et's to 13.3 et's. All without a dyno and tuning using the dignostics and AFR Lambda gauge on the street each day to and from work. I would set 2 tunes each night keeping the best as a base incase I needed to change back to for a safe trip to and from work. All that and with no experience in tuning a computor controlled car and I would have spent less than 6hrs in total tuning it to where it was. I also started from a generic tune as the tune in my car was done with a Flash box and my laptop doesn't have a serial port to connect it to, plus it probably would have been locked anyway. that's my 2cents worth.

Great to hear Turbo Vixen. Its still not over and I hope she has the strength to keep fighting. My Cousin pasted on Anzac Day also my sons 6th birthday, I only had sent her a message on Saturday Morning asking how she was going as the car is off the road and I was trying to get back up to see her. I got a reply from her daughter saying only immediate family are able to see her. I knew it mustn't be good and sent a reply for the daughter to be strong and that I said hello. Sunday morning I got the call saying she had past the night before. And yes it suxs A BIG f*ck YOU TO CANCER.

Check boostdrifting.com as a guy had a new t51 and snort manifold at a very good price.

As I said have only started to tune these myself, but if he wants to exchange notes that's fine just PM to arrange some time to catch up with him. I am located brissy southside, west of logan city. I am not using VCM either, I am using SCT Racer Pro. PM for further info.

Agreed. My car was tuned by a big name tuner here in QLD to which the previous owner had informed me never to use him as he could not get it right. He had another tuner do the tune, cant recall the name. I have just started tuning myself and with some help from a few members here I had the car idling a smooth 650 rpm idle from its 1000rpm with a slight random miss. as well I improved my fuel consumption from 11's to 8.8 hwy. And was turning the tyre's harder. And I only have scratched the surface of the tuning on these things. Best bet is just research and find who is doing a good job. Good luck

Look at the post date. I bet they have all stuck there tails between there legs and gone in to hiding, that link doesn't even work. And that Dr z toss, ha 300kw alloytechs yhey couldn't even get near it. or any sort of resemblance in the torque curve our motors crank. And what sh*t would he be trying to come with with the F6 giving there gts a bashing everywhere. Got to hand it to them though there P platters with there v6 that can even beat lambo's, ferrari's and even the Veyron. What hope have we got against there supersonic fast v6's Must be in the fuel they use, semen injection.

When you load the tune if the tune has allowed you any freedom in adjustment, it should come up with a option of letting you choose if you want to just load it or adjust it. from there it will be the first option and you just adjust it to 100%. I have my car apart at present so if anyone could give this guy a step by step with the exact options displayed on the Xcal2 it may help him.

If you are using Xcal 2 or 3 , when you load in your tune select user options and adjust wastegate Duty to 100%. That fixed mine, it is appranetly something to do with settings in the tune. You have to adjust the other settings to suit if you want to run less wastegate duty. A experienced tuner should know this. If you want to run less boost you will need to tell your tuner to make the adjustments to suit what duty you want to run. All I need to find out with mine once my new turbo and manifold go on is why with my adaptive learning turned off my car keeps adjusting itself to 10.9AFR's at 0% Throttle Position, Idle of Throttle cruise.

Yeh my maxxis are the Victra MA-Z1. At 245x35x19 and I have done some hard testing in the wet and I tell you for a front steer tyre they are feeling every bit as good as the Yokohama Advan's they replaced. Corner grip in the wet rolling on a sharp down hill curve the side grip sems to be better than my Toyo Proxy 4's on the rear as the car starts to oversteer. that's with no brake and no throttle doing 60k in the wet. Weather the fact the front is loaded up due to the downhill decent with the weight transfer being more to the front & the rears being light due to the same reason and I think my fuel level was near 1/4 as well. Cant see why Adrian6T says they are absolute crap, unless they arnt much chop on the rear due to accel traction. What tread wear are yours at and did you have them from new? Are they the Victra's?

Great, had Head a few times but knocked back doing the deed, just a little to obvisious.

Sorry to here Dags, its all just not fair. It seems like all the nice good people are the ones who get these terrible diseases. TV be strong, and dont give up, be there for your lady as she will need you more than ever through this nightmare. I lost my fav aunt when I was only 7 yo to chest cancer. I also have just learnt of one of my closest first cousins getting told she has 2 weeks to live. she had fought Breast Cancer for years and had a win, only to now be found to have Brain cancer. I have visited her a few times this week and she has a voice problem related to the cancer other than that she is of good spirits and doesn't look as if anything is wrong with her. The most screwed up thing is she is only a few years older than me at approx late 40's. My mother is also in hospital due to a large hernia that she had removed reasently, The doctors patched it up with some sort of mesh which rubbed through her bowel. She is fighting infection at present so they can operate, when speaking to her doctor, he has said it is a rare thing to happen and he is unsure of what can be done. For god sake, its not brain surgery or open heart surgery. I said to him why cant insulate the mesh to stop it from causing the problem. The hospital she is at is hopeless as I would not even send a dog there after numerous problems we have had with them. I had always warned my mother not to ever go there but she didnt listen. I have also begged her to ask to be transferred. Will have to hope if she gets through this that she to doesnt end up getting cancer from it. My 92yo Grandmother has out lived my grandfather by 18years, her eldest daughter by 32years, her second eldest daughter by 12mths and now one of her granddaughters if this disease does take her life. And maybe my mum if this doctor/hospital cant fix a hernia/Bowel problem. and A BIG F*CK YOU TO CANCER & ALL OTHER LIFE ROBBING DISEASES. Please be strong all going or been through a hard time due to Cancer or other.

I would expect the alignment of the shafts should be the same. See if it is possible to spacer the actuator closer to see if that will help any. Also is the pivot arm the same distance between center of pivot shaft and actuator lug. if you shorten it will make it open faster and further. after seeing your pictures there, doesn't the flapper setup really obstruct the wastegate flow. I think I will just go straight to the setup I have been telling you of instead of trying to make a larger Flapper Valve fit.

Senna, Beat me to the pulley, just also wondering if you have also fitted billet Oil Pump gears as they to will fail if you havn't done so.

Dam cpc scrapped. Oh well have to look into moving the circlip in to shorten it, so it all lines up as per original.

Pole position I find the angle not quite right as you need to be approx 5ft with the seat at lowest setting. Sure gauges are still viewable and it is finished very well. I have one and it has never distorted or faded. What I have had problems with is the small white retaining clips dont like being fitted and removed as both mine have broken. I have not checked the viewing angle of the OEM twin pod so cant comment on it. I originally also purchased a SS inductions twin pod and I tell you the extra for the tri-pod was worth every cent in comparisment. The SS didn't even make it to having a gauge sit in it or being mounted as I sat it in place and was disgussed. Resold it back to ebay and didnt lose out to badly.

If shortening the shafts would help, would it be possible to just have a new groove for the circlip machined in to it at the correct length. Also someone mentioned CBC Bearings to have complete drive shafts to suit our cars with larger CV's. Think the cost was around $580 a pair by memory. I still have the pictures of them sitting beside standard shafts as I saved them for further referance a while back.

What people need to concider is: Some gauge setups can be more exspensive than others pending type of gauge pod and gauge being used. Eg Autometer Cobalts into Tripod require cutting down of mounting threads and manual gauges having hose lines require some clearancing mods to the tripod internally. Oil pressure gauges also require a extra fitting from the engine and 2 small fittings at the gauge. Monitor style gauges Like my PLX AFR/Lambda have a senor box, control box and remote that all needs fitting within a certain distance from each other as well as a bung welded in the exhaust and o2 sensor being fitted. Etc Eta So that is why some gauges cost more to fit then others but some of those prices above are way steep. I would say for a straight fit hook up around $150 to $200 max A complex setup up to $500 max.

Dont quote me, but I think one of the spring sets mentioned already are in fact Comp Cams behive type springs. I was quoted a lot cheaper price for them then this other mob that may be selling the same valve springs and calling them there springs. So just do some follow up on these they may save you $ and you know you are getting a quality spring from a company that has been in the business probably longer than Atomic, Nizpro and Crow have combined. Not to mention the amount of R&D they do and sponsored professional high performance machines mainly car Automotive. Another thing also, if wanting to purchase springs from other USA manufacturers, the US Modular Boss engine valve Springs should be compatable concidering our 5.4 boss springs are. You just end up with 8 spare springs unless you can talk them into selling you a set of 24 springs.

Hay RIP85 That .70 housing didn't give you anything over my .50 and I was running a cheaper HDI cooler than your Huge cooler and I also suffered Fuel in the Top end as well and still I was quicker (Need Surge tank or lend of Tig Welder). Just a bit of rubbing in there LOL. typhoon Freak, yes tank needs to be verticle or top facing towards the front at a mild angle. Just think where the fuel will travell when under hard accelleration. Some Curcuit cars run scavanger pumps set up in 3 places, catchment at rear for accelleration catchment to left for hard right handers and last catchment right hand side for hard left turns. that's why you usually hear of multiply pumps instead of just one big one. Some cars that just use 1 pump usually have a swinging pickup setup, so it goes where the fuel travels to, disadvantage is not being able to run full baffles or foam allowing weight shift. Unless you are going to go serious and race circuit the standard tank setup will be fine with surge tank at front. the taller the fuel reserviour the less chance of surge as well. Always try to have your fuel outlet from the surge tank at the rear because if your fuel does deplenish to much from the surge you may still lean out. this also goes for if you have the top angled back the fuel will try to go to the most rear point under accelleration and as in your picture the top rear would be the place the fuel would be best to collect from under hard accelleration. Problem being once you stop accellerating it would become the worst place and only drawing fumes. that's why it is important on being verticle or at worst the top slightly angled towards the front of vehicle.