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Investigate weather a large core cooler is a disadvantage to a cooler suited to what power level you are aiming at. I have heard you can go to big. The HDI package is a very good price for what you get. Concidering it will support the power level you are looking at and should handle 350rwkw as well. It is priced well compared to other kits. Just ask what core they use and research how well that core works. You may be surprised to find out some of these companies are just using cheap chinese cores and are way over priced. I had also used a standard XR cooler on my car at well over 275rwkw and only ever found heat soak to be a problem on the track and on extreme hot days. Mine you when I changed to the GT Series 600x300x75 HDI cooler with plazmaman plenum and pipe work, it improved to the point I mentioned in above post. Each run was very consistant with never a hint of heat soak in 70 to 85 % humidity. I found with my standard cooler my times where slower as the humidity rised. Also learnt not to do big skids as getting that heat into the standard cooler effected the run something that didn't bother the HDI cooler.

Someone else who fitted as per I have, yours looks more central to mine, maybe due to the shorter height of your cooler not fowling on the rear Aircond Connection. Anyone run bigger turbo and plenum with theres? Are you happy with it if you have? Before I took mine off the road, I had to pick daughter up at 1am morning and the car was not controlling boost with it sitting on a constant 20psi, man it felt good though with the tyres feeling on a razors edge of braking traction in 3rd gear. And that's with 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's. Cant wait till I finally get it back on the road with my TO4z and Manifold setup to test how my HDI GT Series cooler goes.

Pull the pump off so you can inspect it properly. I have found with mine it keeps destroying the o ring. I keep replacing the o ring and its fine for short time until it starts leaking again. Next time it is off I am going to see if I can get a teflon o ring to see if that solves it. Also if the o ring is not thick enough it wont pull up tight, make sure you have correct sized o ring or try a slightly thicker one. Another option to try is to use Aviation Goo (Non Hard setting) it may help. I'm pretty sure the FG hose/Connection has been changed as well because of this leak problem.

I have been tuning my own BA with SCT Racer Pro Advantage 3 Software. It has the option of adjusting launch control with rpm and as well 2 step so it holds set rpm till you get to set speed. Only prob I can get launch limiter to work but it wont turn off. As with your FG it is a simple value change in the tune. Before you have them set it, go practice launching it till you find the best revs to do so. then have them change it to that. Keep in mind it will bog on the track due to having more grip. Did you tell the tuner you where going to run it at the track? he may have set it to 4000rpm thinking you where going to fit some slicks and go racing.

I am using a HDI GT Series 600x300x75 universal cooler, Another member on here is running near identicle parts to me except he is using a Rapid cooler. Last time out at the track I ran quicker times marginally and terminal speed. His is a BF F6 mine a series 1 BA XR Both run plazmaman plenum and pipe work. both run X-Force exhaust His had a .7 front Turbo housing mine still standard .5 his has a PW Surge tank fitted. Both T56 manuals His has been tuned by shop, I have tuned my own. My run was also not good as started to ping in 3rd so eased off and selected 4th and slowly fed Throttle on cautious of det.( More than likely due to my fuel system) My pass was 12.902 @ 116mph on street tyres running a manual with very slow 60ft of 2.4 seconds due to very soft launch due to wheel spin and axle tramp. So concidering its a manual and its very hard to get off the line cleanly the mph shows the cooler must work well. Fit of the HDI Cooler is a little low as the outlets come out horizonial and foul on the chassis rails stopping it from sitting higher enough to fit the plastic under tray on. I have removed non structual material from the chassis rails to get mine up high enough to clear the under tray. however best thing would be to have outlets cut and repositioned at a 45 deg angle to go around the chassis rail. I choose the HDI For the price and the fact that they are a well know intercooler manufacturer and make a quality cooler. they have been fitted to numerous winning race cars. For 300rwkw's even a monza would do. just to give some idea of potenial, My friends car running the rapid cooler had made 380rwkw a few days before we hit the track and mine would have been as much if not more with the HDI cooler. Research your options as you are already doing and make your own choices dont let others persaude you get all the facts on specs and what others have run with what results. I have not noticed any flow specs or temp drops performed on any of the PW or Rapid coolers, but I may have missed it. I have heard that Nizpro have done development and have shown what temp drops they get across there core.

Pube The aircond line you are showing stopping you from raising it. I have bent mine back out of the way, its the other one that is in the way on mine making me have to offset towards the right hand side. I may evenually go to a aircond service shop and get them to redo the piping to get it out of the way so I can center my cooler. The kit cooler is not as tall as my one so you should be able to get it to sit higher once you bend the aircond piping out of the way. Just wondering also mine has the HDI pressed into the top and bottom support plates Have they dicided not to do the same with the XR Kit.

Good work. See what I have been saying how easy they can make power.

I didn't opt for the kit as already had plazmaman pipes and plenum, I just order the GT Series 600x300x76mm cooler. I was told it would support a little more power than the kit cooler. It cost me $400. I mentioned removing the excess metal of the chassis rails to get the cooler higher, It would be a easier option to just have the outlets altered to go down and around the chassis rails. The reason I choose the HDI was price to quality.

cant give any pictures as ca is together and not pulling apart any time soon. What I removed was the metal that obstructs the cooler from going any higher. if you sit your cooler in place, have a look at what stops it. I will try to get some pictures of how mine sits in its fitted position, wont be until the weekend.

Read the above post. If you don't want to do that, purchase the cooler and have the outlets cut off and weld on 2 45 deg pipes so it goes under the chassis rails. Even if it cost another $100 to $200 to do it, it still is a lot cheaper than what other ones are on offer to fit our cars. Mine is the larger but thinner version to the kit they do. It will be put to the test once I get my new setup on, TO4z, Plazmaman Plenum etc.

Keep clear of them. I had 2 of my wheels cleaned up of gutter rash (Mild) They where machined that bad that you run your finger nail accross it and it felt like a old music record. Not only that they didn't machine it right to the center on one and left a double step up. Had to get Ray Bilou at Brisbane road labourdore on the coast to fix them. Was told due to the poor workmanship of wheel revelutions it would cost more to fix then if I had just bought them to them in the first place. Which was true as it would have only needed the clean up it should have got with the correct cutter. Anyway for Southside of Brissy & Gold Coast people, keep Ray Bilou (Not 100% sure on that spelling). in Mind, does a brillent job.

I have fitted mine and the cooler sits high enough to still have the plastic stone tray fit. However I had to grind away metal from the front chassis rails to get it up high. If yo look there is excess metal past the spot welds & I remove it keeping the welds intact. So it doesn't remove any structural material. the only down side with mine is the fitting coming out of the condensor keeps it from being central. (Not the one you bend out of the way). Mine is the GT Series 600x300x75 cooler.

just drive it for now, with what you have had done it should last a bit longer than the factory gear. Surely a subframe could be made up to bolt in as per normal to the chassis in place of the factory subframe. Then have all radius rods attached to it. That way it wont cause a problem if ever needed to be returned to factory setup. just though of someone who may be able to do it for you, his name is Jeff England of jeff England Engineering. he is at Mt cotton rd Mt Cotton, near opposite the defensive Driving Center. that's if he is still doing business. he used to do Dick's & XE Falcons. he done a great job on my old XE ghia I had back in the mid 90's. And price was very good.

Just remove the filter & Block it where it came off with a cap. Run the hose from the PCV valve to the can, then from the can to just before the turbo intake. the factory setup draws in oil fume anyway so its not going to be any different. You can make it better by if possible run a foam filter inside the can so it traps as much oil as possible from returning to the intake. the tyre of catch can I have has a removeable top so I can do this. It would be a better option to purchase a non atmo type can. the whole idea is to remove crankcase pressure with less oil contamination as possible while keeping it legal.

Pull your heads in, I don't put your cars down when you fit fluffy dice to the mirrors or chrome hub caps. LOL just kidding, he/she probably was a fan of the mello yellow car off days of Thunder or maybe Moffats Cenovous Falcon. Maybe it could look good if it was executed properly. Look at the Lime green BA that had white mags, looked good because he executed the job correctly. How it sits though it is disgusting.

heard it can be done but dont know about what happens with the handbrake. I will also look into this as it has to be better than the non vented rears. Would prefer the 4 pot AP racing rear setup to match my fronts but money is going elsewhere at present. And I have looked for the BF vented rears with no luck, havn't even seen anyone advertise replacement disks for them. Atleast I have my old disks and calipers to use, so why not. let us know what you find out, & I will do like wise.

I seen it as well, one of his ads looks good but then he has another which looks like its a 2 piece setup. just contact him and ask what is picture is what you will receive. I'm pretty sure he has a stainless option. Instead of asking people who have no idea on here as they are quoting its crap and they have never try one or seen it in the flesh. Better to contact people who have purchased from him and ask them what it is truely like. also look at the feed back for it. If you ask my opinion the 4" x-force defeats the purpose with the reduction to the flange. I use to have the x-force 3.5 with sep gate pipe and it worked well having beaten a few other cars running the 4" cat running more or similar mods to my car. if you go with the mild steel pipe have it ceremic coated, it will a better option then the stainless. My Stainless x-force dump discoloured and started to look crap after 18months.

Turbo is garrett TO4z With .7 front and .96 rear Gate is Turbosmart Progate 50 new compact series stealth. Should get atleast 200rwkw. LOL maybe at under 2000rpm. Its not going to be to series at present as still running the good old faithful BA Mk1 engine. Will just use the 7psi spring that comes with gate and tune it around the same psi. Should make reasonal power, and may up it to 10-12psi for track days. Once I can afford to finish my engine build then I will be chasing bigger numbers. Will need decent drive shafts as well. Have all the rest of the gear to make the numbers I will be chasing. Plan is to make it as driveable as possibble, and try to improve cruise fuel eccom. But have more go than the average joe when needed. Will look into using a eboost as well to help with traction in the lower gears. Hay Ben, my car may go slower now as I have a .7 front as well. LOL little joke from our last time out at the track.

A little on the dear side, $1650, was going to go the ETM but to long a wait. With all the stuff around I have had I could have waited (Not the supplier fault but life problems). It is from Hi Torque and as a lot of people have read about the tisso black ute which made 600+ rwkw it cant be half bad. Menice has just had his engine built with a GT42 hanging off it and made 646rwhp think at 22psi standard ecu pump fuel with same manifold think different flange for the turbo. May have sometime first thing Sunday morning if you want to check out the Advantage Software. just wont be able to plug into car as still apart waiting on Oil, water lines & Dump pipe sections. still show you over the program so you know what is involved. if Sunday is ok, just PM your contact if you hadn't already. Ben, you hitting the track again soon, let me know how you go. Wont run mine till you beat my time, then I will go back out and set a quicker time for you to try to beat. LOL

Good one Ben, so was it making power at the track last time we run. Great to hear it is sorted. My plenum is also having sealing probs, it started last 1 am 20psi squirt it copped. and dam I know I shouldn't be pushing a BA Mk1 std engine that hard, but hay it felt so good. You could feel the Toyo Proxy 4's struggling to hold traction in 3rd. Still havn't got mine together yet, waiting on a few more bits as finance permits. Here's a sneak peak at what is happening. Going to be hard to control myself and keep the boost down til I build the new engine.

Did you check if the surface of the plenum was intake, as I told you RIP85 had a issue with the paint cracking and causing a leak, he removed the paint on the sealing surface and it was solved. Maybe contact him so he can tell you more of his experience. still waiting on some finishing bits for my new TO4z, so havn't had much to email you on. did you check out the tune I gave you. how did it go if you tried it. just email if you have anything in reply.

To check heights is as easy as sliding the Valve Micrometer on, sitting the retainer on, wind the mic out till the collects hold the retainer in position firmly and read the measurement, remove mic then add whatever shim/shims required and install valve spring making sure installed height is acheived, I also like to make a note of the exact installed height for each spring. When installing a large lift cam shaft you should use a light spring that you can fit by hand and measure compressed height and check valve spring presure at that height to make sure it is making sufficant pressure to suit the camshaft. You will find quality valve spring manufactures will have specs at certain lifts, they may not be able to provide the pressure at what your camshafts lift has so if its not a matched kit it is best to have the spring pressure checked for your valve lift. Eg say 280pounds at 12mm compression from installed height, in one case on 1 valve installed height is 1mm greater giving 1mm less compression resulting in say 250pounds at full lift. this is why if installed height length is greater than recommended it will also affect open spring pressure. if your valve spring isn't making the required pressure for the rpm range of your cam as well boost you are running it will float and in turn lead to terminal failure. As I said it only takes 1 soft spring to destroy a engine. I'm not a expert on valve train and have never siad I was, please consult with the manufacturer of whatever product you use and search for all available info to guide you. I have based all my comments on what I have learnt over the years. If I am wrong in any thing please say as all feedback good or negative helps everyone to learn. There is so much to learn about valve spring dynamics that it would require a book to explain completly. What would make it harder is not having the hands on experience to fully understand. Race teams put a lot of money into researching valve train components as it is the differance between winning or DNF. hence the secret valve train no engineer will disclose.

It is a time comsuming process to measure and check all, there would be a lot of mechanics out there that will charge you for the labour but may skip in doing the process of checking everything and just fit the springs, they take the risks if it does fail. They can always argue the point that you have over reved it, not warmed engine before giving it a workout, run to much boost etc etc. Quality springs should always come with a specification, if not the manufacturer should be able to provide it. I would never install a set of valve springs if the information wasn't available for the install. With a standard heavy duty direct replacement spring you may find they come with no installation specifications as they have been made to fit in as per standard. In saying that they need to be installed using factory specifications of installed heights. if you dont bother to set them to spec or check them its the risk you take. With you having fitted 20 sets you have been lucky, just remember it only takes one bad spring to fail and worst case your engine is scrap. I have not performed a valve spring change in a Barra 6 as yet but have done plenty of ford v8's crossflows, and VW's. I have my new engine sitting in my shed on a stand and when I get around to doing the valve train it will be done to spec and nothing less. I will not be using a valve spring that has no specification supplied. may I ask what brand springs are you using, have you asked the supplier to supply specification for install.

AAaaarrr yumi, slurp slurp och have gravel rash on me tongue now. any more pictures of this babe. Ho come we always try to imagine what lays beneith.

I have pulled down engines with broken valve springs from people not checking them for installation. As phantmxr6 mentioned all valves seats will have different installed heights, just think about it you have a cast head which is machined for the valve seats which are press fitted to head then there is the machining of the seats and valve, then you have the valve spring foot that is also machined, from there the retaining clips (Collects) hold the valve stem tapered into the valve spring retainers which also can very installed height. so with all those areas there will be differances but no where near as bad now with the quality of manufacture process. Then pending how good the set of valve springs are you will get different pressure from each spring at the same compressed height. On top of that you get people fit large lift cams and dont check the coil bind (The springs being compressed fully) Eg having 12mm valve lift but only 11.8mm valve travel to compressed spring. If the spring manufacturer requires say 120lb seat pressure then you need to get this as close as possible with the 120lb being the minium as anything less will mean poor valve seating meaning that cylinder to be down on power. When choosing upgraded camshafts it very important the valve springs are of correct specification to suit not only for seat pressure but open pressure as that's where you will have valve float if its to soft. eg you have a large cam that has a power band area at say 4500 to 5800rpm if the springs arn't matched and they have less than specified open pressure the engine will not develop power in the upper power range as you will get valve float. on the other hand if the valve spring pressure is higher than specified you may have the head of the valve part way which is another problem with people fitting big cams with heavy valve springs without upgrading the valves to a valve made to handle the extra spring pressure. when buying valve train where possible buy all parts from the same manufacturer as it is all tested to suit, follow all installation procedures. Hope I explained this simple enough for anyone wanting to know without being to confusing, it is very early morning. Any mismatched valve train will end in tears, not only can the valve train fail but if a valve lets go at rpm say good by to your engine. Sorry Matt back on your subject, how did you go, did you get them all done yet also I had sent you a PM.