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Yep, pretty sure my TO4z would probably fit inside his intake pipe. Makes my TO4z look so small in comparisment. It's amazing how the hell HI Torque actually got it in there.

If referring to the Rapid F6 that's Menice. GT45 with 6" intake pipe, very tuff and keep your eyes and ears out on it It has turned some pretty decent Numbers already.

Yep, looks like piston failed from damage, unless you got valve float from the extra boost. did the crown have any tell tale signs or any bent valves. you had me all excited in going to push mine a little harder but now I think I will keep it sedate until I build my new engine. Good luck on your new engine as you will have a great starting point to build from.

Thanks RUS531, Was thinking it would trip, that's why I asked, dont like the though of power cable running approx 5m unprotected that's why I was contemplating using one. By running the power cable to starter I was thinking that may get voltage drop, I was thinking at the quick glance at the fuse box area that the second cable from the battery terminal was the starter cable, I take it, I was wrong and it is the alternator cable and the starter cable is hidden. will undo fuse box and check. Thanks

Best to make up a custom pillar gauge set up, gauge would be no use being down out of view. Or if don't like the look of gauges on the pillar just use warning leds. There are led set ups to hook up if you go searching. Was just reading the other day someone releasing a multi shift light setup that employs think it was 5 leds that work at set rpms going from green to yellow to red. Other than that have a look at PLX industries, they have plenty of options with one of there newer additions being a rectangular lcd screen that you can design your own layout and hook whatever sensors up to it as well as a OBD2 connection so you can view all perimeters from your ecu. This could be either mounted on the dash or maybe on the windscreen as per sat nav's, or if you wanted, make a slot in the cover over your ICC screen that you can slot it into and remove it for security. I have there 52mm O2/Lambda gauge setup, able to load your own backgrounds, design your own gauge styles, as well one gauge/monitor can read up to 8 perimeters, comes with a remote to scroll throught etc. I'm very impressed with it. Check them out, plenty of options and they have won numerous Seema awards http://plxdevices.com/

Check out a pole I did a while back, have to do a search for it. I think they dont give much problem until you start pushing the turbo a bit harder. More power more heat generated. There has been quite a few coil failures. Best thing to do is vent the cover so heat can escape. When I build my new engine I'm going to look into a venting setup for it. When my originals failed I fitted the set from my low K engine (Engine to be built). I also purchased a new set for when I do ever finish the build. Just think of heat as a enermy to electrical componants so, the cooler they are the longer they will survive. When doing any venting you need to make sure water can't enter or you will get shorting and long term corrossion around plugs,head and rocker cover. A simple idea is to run a intake hose into the cover, with the hose running down the side of the engine away from any direct moisture path. Then run another from the other end to the airbox. The heat from it should not bother the engine air intake. But if concerned it will run it through a smaller cooler core. Other than that set it up with a vacume fan to draw the heat out so no need to use the induction to draw it out. Another idea would be to run a small catchment scoop in the bottom air intake grill but will need to make some sort of moisture seperator. If you decide to mount coil packs to a plate in engine bay just use silicone spray on them, I have driven a old cortina through a flooded area where the water came over the tunnell (Stupid thing to do when young) did not miss a beat. Use to drive VW baja's off road and never a problem using the silicone spray. Also great on marine engines.

Don't leave it to long as if it is gunking up it will only get worst to the point it wont engage no matter how hard you beat it up. Just get a can of wd40 and see if there is anyway you can give it a squirt into it. It may just help enough to get it working till you either pull it out and fix or replace it. If its manual dont get any on the clutch plate. Auto and your fine to give it a good dose of wd40. Make sure you aim for the shaft cog area.

NB4C ment to also add, yes there is some euro cars that are competitive on price but really they have nothing on the package of our XR's and FPV's performance. The euro cars that are as fast or faster are alot more exspensive than our cars. Love the look on the 5 series guys when you pass them making them look slow.

The Falcon and commondoor are built at size due to the average size family average size person. If ford or gmh ditched these cars there would be a big void left in the market. For instance I have 4 children with the eldest being 18yo so she doesnt join the family but what I'm referring to is if I bought a aurion my kids would be figthing because of having to sit so close to each other. The other factor is I have been into high performance cars before I was even conceived, would prefer to die than drive a bus, 4wd dont do it for me either as costly to maintain and run. Had thought of a v8 toyota cruiser once in my life, lucky I didn't. The other thing is I hate front wheel drive cars for handling as well working on, so if I had to buy a asian car it would be either a STI or a EVO, maybe a GTR. my last factor is have you ever seen a small to large asian car have a collision with a large aussie car, I know which I prefer to be in. However if Ford decided to build a TC-TD Cortina Sized 4.0l Turbo 6 with all wheel drive, I would jump at it. it would be great losing a few hundred kilo's. I would put up with the whinging from the kids if that happened. I used to love my 351w (5.8l) V8 cortina I had, 3.7 gears mild engine running straight lpg I could put 2 car lengths on wrx's front off the line and keep it all the way. It was cheap to run, cheap to fix, only got rid of it as the chassis was twisting, should have put a rollcage in it from the begining of the build. Everyday DOT approved drive car.

Bogan - Heard he was caring a lot more weight than you, and that you had some wheel spin but his was bagging them pulling away from you. I will have to make sure I catch it next round.

Typical gmh fool, doesnt know anythink, just a waste of space. You could of argued about his views all day but it would have been a total waste of your valueable time after all he is a airhead. Should have asked him for the plastic (Yes they where bakerlite) timing gears as your other car has broken 30 sets within the last 2 days, a new conrod & piston for number 5 cylinder on your 202, a Bango diff, munchie gearbox, or if he could supply a new powersteer line for your burnt out VE. The only reason he stocked gmh parts and not Ford parts was because you always need replacement parts for them, not so much for Fords. Hence why majority of Taxi's have been Ford (Reliable high mileage not plastic try to be's). I meet so many people that just buy a car because of its colour or it had nice chrome hub caps on it, they never research the car or make to find out what it is they are buying.

Your mods shouldn't affect it for warranty on the starter unless it is directly the cause of the problem, it may affect the engine drivelines warranty once they see the mods.

You arn't driving hard enough. Yeh not like watching a yellow F6 pull away in front of you Thursday night. Just stirring, what was your opinion on it, does it go as good as I have been told. There is also a new set up coming from SCT, (SCT Touch Screen Xtreme) Check out the info http://www.sctflash.com/TSX.php Some features - see link for more. Sleek Compact Design Sleek compact design for reduced windshield interference & easy storage in glovebox or shirt pocket. Wireless Technology Flashes & data logs the vehicle using wireless technology Touch Screen Display 4" color touch screen display with automatic day / night modes. User Adjustable Graphics User adjustable background graphics/ gauge sets. Data Logging / Monitoring View & record or monitor your vehicle's PCM data Rechargeable Battery Internal rechargeable battery for complete wireless operation. USB charging cable included. Performance Calculator Displays estimated 1/4 mile & 0-60mph ET, HP and TQ! Expandable Memory Easily increase the device storage space. Sounds good, but dont know when and if it will be compatable with our cars.

Hey Dags, dont you know what the differance is between a oval and a circle. Expensive Daewoo Circled the problem not ovaled it. And I have never heard Ford to pronounce they are the ALL Australian car, that's something holden has done many times. Maybe Iam a little ignorant to the brand due to the fact I have owned all fords but except 3 VW Baja Bugs 1 Street VW Beetle, 1 VF Valliant, and wait, dont tell anyone 1 HX Expensive Daewoo PV. Had a few problems with the VW's as was over reving them for what the cranks could handle. The Valiant didn't hid the road but never a problem when I used it to paddock bash. The Expensive Daewoo well, it would have been the worst, first day the clutch died on the Hwy mind you in 2 weeks the legendary Banjo diff (BANGO) shattered, must of been all that power the 202 put out NOT, it would only do 160kph, even my Dub's where all faster, it was heavy on Fuel, the plastic timing gears stripped. had it for approx 6mths and swore never to ever buy another GMH problem. It did have its good points being a van though. I have had few problems with my Fords over the years (19years) they have all performed well. Plenty of laughts at friends GM/GMH products with them trying to compete with me but always having problems and couldn't get near my cars even though mine had always been budget builds that I did all the work on myself bar the machining and some of theres where big dollar best of everything builds. Eg one of them owned a HQ Bathurst Monaro, 8 grand worth of 350 chev (Back in early 90's) had Bow Tie Heads manifold, 750dp, Large Solid Crane cam, Forged pistons, Large tuned headers, Turbo 400 with 3500 rpm stall, MSD ignition. 9",He kept having box problems among others. Had nothing on my that ran 351c, toploader, 9", ACL Hyp pistons, 2v open chamber heads with porting by self running SS 4v valves Crane Dual springs moly retainers, Std 4 barrel Square bore manifold with lots of porting by self, Hyd Crane Cam, Hurricane 4 into 1 headers, accell coil, halifex mod to distributor, etc eta. 4 years of hard life and 2 Center force clutchs, and finally a spun bearing. Probs with fords over the years I have felt to be poor engineering are E series, manual pedal assembly (Clutch pedal breaks off at approx 200 000k's) Head Gaskets blow around same K's Cable Clutch B Series The fiter mesh in the Turbo Oil feed line XR6T (It Ford serviced them it would be fine) Standard Front Disks shudder The crappy Drink holder lid catch The plastic T5 gearbox The Hi Pressure Powersteer line NB4C sorry didn't mean to stereotype, you must get heaps from your family and friends driving a Ford. For everyone bagging out a Ford, why compare them to euro crap that cost alot more. Sure if Ford or GMh was to build them to same costs they would be every bit as good if not better. Ford, GMH, Toyota, Nissan all aim at the Australian market, Toyota takes one step further offering its Lexus badged cars. Here is some abbrev's HSV = Heaps Shi**y Vehicles HSV = Heaps Slow Vehicles HSV = Herpe Spreading Vehicle HRT = Hemroid Replacement Team(Tool) Holden = Heaps of Large Dents Engine Noises Torana = Tons of Rust And No Accelleration GMH = Garranteed Mechanical Heaps You know those piss on stickers, had a funny one once where this guy in a v8 LH torana had a P on Ford sticker on his back window, any way he tried it on(till speed limit) then next set of lights I looked over laughing my head off and said P On Ford ha ha, was not impressed looked like he was nearly crying. that's what gave me the idea to put Bye bye on my rear boot lid.

And your point Dags I bet if you went to the LS1 site you would have referance to more than 5 times what you picked out. great work digging them all up, want to go dig up all the issues from the LS1 site for us to compare. So hows your gmh product going, had any problems you want to tell us about. Without going through all your links there, I bet most are caused by modifications and people pushing the Turbo Ford beyond the engineered capability. Not the case with the 21 plus recalls gmh has had with the commonhore. As with my poll you had pointed out there, Modified cars that are generating more heat due to turbos running hotter, causing the coils to overheat and fail. probably find all the ones who hadn't had coil failures are the ones who have not increase the power. At least ford can build a fuel flap that doesn't fall off, something gmh cant do. Here is a good one for everyone, Even gmh new they got it wrong just look at there emblem they have circled the problem. Good old gmh the all australian car, Don't worry not everybody likes a fast cars like our Turbo Fords, some buy holdens or asian cars to ease there pain but whenever they get past by a Ford they get nighmares all over again. There are people that can help you but you wont find them here, try the LS1 site as there are plenty of others like you there GO How many race wins in V8 SC has Ford this year? How many race wins in V8 SC has Expensive Daewoo this year? What won the championship last year What won Bathurst last year & the year before that & also the year before that What won the V8 brutes last year How many WRC's championships has Expensive Daewoo won How many WRC's races has Expensive Daewoo won How many F1 championships has Expensive Daewoo won How many F1 races has Expensive Daewoo won watch the gmh boys run with there tails between there legs now

just make sure you havn't got a rear main seal leak and the starter is getting oil in it. I had a problem with mine and was do to lots of fried clutch and soot on it to not slide the gear out on the shaft to engage. If yours is like this you may hear it spin but the cog wont engage the ring gear. The RAA tapping the solinoid would help it to engage. Not a hard job to remove and give it a clean. Remove it and give it a good wash in kero, rinse it (Pressure clean if have one) Blow it dry with a compressor, get some lithium grease and smear a very light coat on the shaft. Then try to pull gear in and out a few times to work the lube into it. If you cant do so just hook up your cable and wire without inserting it back into position. Hold it tight and have some one hit the key a few times. Observe if the gear is spinning out to engaging position. Now even though it does all this wont mean it is ok as when there is a issue its the load that stops them. Also while you have it out, check that there is no burred teeth on your ring gear and starter gear as this will also stop engagement. If it does work at least you have saved yourself a starter motor. Good luck.

As said previously, poor machining tolerances. The bores are treated alloy and no liners from memory The Gen4 had liners. I used to work at Zupps which was the biggest of the 2 GMH parts destributor in QLD. We used to get batch's of pistons,rings and conrods weekly. I had asked the HSV parts manager of QLD why we where getting so many in, he was the one who had comfirmed this problem. It actually disgussed me that they would take the chance on the car having problems then fix them under warrenty. In under six months I decided to keep count of warranty Gen3's coming through, I had counted 12 and there could have been more that didn't get put into storage and went directly to dispatch. The ones in storage only lasted a few days before they went out. These warrenty engines where on top of the numerous pistons, rings and conrods. there was also the occassional engine block, price to zupps was $4300 per block, not bad for a throw away. Lunati manufactured a stroker kit for them that had liners in it, so there was a fix eventually. get this one of my mates, a guy he worked with had heaps of problems with his Gen3 and his father also had one but didn't get any problems. This guys car was using oil after 20 000k's, took it in for repair, they rerung it and honed it gave it back and it still continued to use oil, took it back again and it was found the bores had elongated, they replaced it with a version that had a few kw's more which was good of them, only problem is they didn't stamp a engine number on it and the guy found out when a cop pulled him up. The police impounded the car until it was comfirmed legit, he then had to have DOT issue him a Engine number as well fit a id plate to the car with new engine number on it. I pitty that guy when he sold it, Guy:um its a great car, buyer:why has it not got the original engine? Guy:The original was a oil burner Buyer: whats with the extra ID plate (non GMH) Guy: Um ah GMH stuffed up and didn't stamp originally, cops found it and had to get DOT number. I know I wouldn't be purchasing it, just to suss. Not long after my back injury at zupps I was working at a petrol station for reabilation and I asked a guy if he had any problems with his new VY GTS, his reply was where do I start he went through a list including engine,gearbox, and diff as well as a heap of other stuff, I didn't bother saying anything else to him as he was very angry about the problems. There was numerous others but none of them where as pissed off. Anyway enough of that crap as we all know the gmh/gm product is way inferior. hell they cant even engineer a fuel flap little anything else. Another line to use with them is put your money where your mouth is put your ride up against mine, if not STFU

Becarefull as the company I purchased my Xcal 2 through told me to go with the Xcal2 not the Livewire as it had issue's on our cars. Try Matt at BPR (Bullet Performance Racing) he maybe able to shread some light on these for you. He is a Dreamscience supplier who where dealing through SCT but from last I had heard they where doing there own software and moving away from SCT. I was able to purchase the Racer Pro software from him over a year ago it allows you to do your own tuning on your vehicle and is approx half the cost of the workshop software. The software is Advantage 3 its only differance is you only get the catch code for your vehicle unless you purchase others. The workshop comes with all catch codes. Racer Pro is ideal for people who want to tune there own car, keep in mind its pretty complex and theres alot to learn. I have good old school tuning ability of carb'd vehicles and have been able to get my head around the software, albiet still heaps to learn. Give Matt (BPR) a call he is very clued on and I'm sure he can help you.

Spot on. They dont have a clue, you need to demo it sometimes to make them STFU and give credit where it is deserved. But what it comes down to in the end is jealousy because they drive a camry,magna,berina etc. Had this guy at work once who was asian and right in to asian cars, skylines & Silva's. Kept bagging me saying his brothers silva would beat my car, I gave him a lift home once and that's all that was needed, everytime I said for him to line my car up with his brothers he kept saying it is off the road at moment broken or out of rego. He then kept trying to say for me to line up against so called friends with drag cars, I just replied my car is a street car and what I have spent on it, it does a great job for what it is. I then would say to him righto how about your so called friend line his race car up against my friends v8 drag capri that ran mid 8's N/A. It just goes on and on, they simply just have no Idea. You just have to learn all the faults with the commonhore and watch them put there tail between there legs and run. Here is a few Gen 3 v8- Cant be bored, only can go 10thou hone (Throw away engine block) Gen 3 v8- Known for rattles and oil consumption due to poor machining tolerances VT-VZ- power steering issues including rack and hoses VE- Seat belt pulling out VE- Hose that causes engine bay fires Also tell them to do a search for commomhore recalls They had 21 in a 9 year period if they try to talk up there small cars ask how come it looks like a daewoo which was the worst car on the market. But since gmh rebadged it they try to say its a good car.

They only try bagging your choice of car because they know they are a great car and wish they owned one. The other makes in the class dont even come to our cars for quality or power. I get it from the Expensive Daewoo boys as well, but every now and then they actually admit how nice my car is and how fast it goes. To the Expensive Daewoo boys just tell them they cant even build a petrol flap correctly, just take note of how many you see driving around with missing or different coloured petrol flaps.

What would make that would be from after the throttle body make a piece that went from the 3" round to a slot the length of the plenum, which will help even up the flow to all runners and not the closest ones to the throttle body. As I said in my post 110. You would have to do some testing on different size slots though as in not to cause any restriction being to narrow or if to wide the end cylinders will still loose flow to the center runners and it will have not acheived anything over the Prodrive plenum pictured.

Just butting here, mine has sat for some time now, battery disconnected as last time it took two weeks to drain when connected and needed to clutch start it. This time around it has been a few months and is having a turbo and manifold upgrade so hoping not to have to clutch it as want to not load it up and drive it till it is checked to be running fine with no leaks. also dont want it stuck on the road at bottom of driveway if it doesn't fire up. I'm using the 925 oddessay battery, what is a good trickle charger to use on it as I have heard you can't just use any old charger. PS not wanting to buy the most exspensive one on the market just one that will do the job. XF Falcon - 6 weeks all you need to do is disconnect the battery If you have 35 series or smaller tyres then putting it on stands wont hurt On the funny side, you may want to oil up your disk brake rotors so they dont get rusty . Just realised on my car that you cant push key into ignition when battery disconnected, great for security not that car will start with out battery anyway. At least it will stop theives if they need to turn car while pushing it as once the steering locks they wont be able to straighten it up unless they smash the ignition or use go jacks. Or reconnect battery and have the key. In it doing this I would disconnect your battery, put it on stands, turn steering till wheel locks and secure location of key and fob. Pending if you have it in a safe spot or not.

Not a ute, but brothers stock sedan went 13.26 @ 104mph probably quicker with better rubber and if he used the sequensial shift in stead of leaving it in drive.

Now that's a good design, not ideal but would be a lot more even then what is on the market for our cars. The only thing I can think of to better it would be to centre the intake and from there spread the opening into a slot to join to the plenum chamber employing the same principle. Then to make it suitable for different applications, design the plenum so you can and or remove spacers that alter plenum chamber volume. Only problem is room to make it like this. Another help would be to add baffles to aid swirl into each runner to help with fill. To manufacture one like this would take time and money. For the money I still feel the Plazmaman then the Nizpro are the better designed plenums for our cars. The CAD programs are pretty dam good at getting things as close as possible to real world senario's, but you will never beat real world testing also they are only as accurate as the information being entered. I have had a quick look at 888's chassis software, I was shown how each point in the rollcage showed stress levels and how you could similated what happens to it in a crash senario. Pretty orsm stuff. It would be interesting to draw up the 3 manifolds in question in this thread and see what the flow dynamics testing revealed. Has anyone the plenum volumes of the 3 plenums as the larger the more suited for higher boost applications with sacrifice of low down efficency.

You only have to look inside the opening of the PW plenum and think of where it has to travel to enter the runners. eg comes in and hits a raised 90 deg wall that is trying to protect it from air entering the runner. not like slipping into a hole with a nice radius edge. I would think the plazmaman plenum would work better low to mid in the power range at lower boost pressures. The PW would start to catch up in the mid to top end when plenty of boost is being used. That 9 second engine looks a bit low on coolant there or has it not run yet and having the plenum just fitted as well as something with the coolant system. So what car is this plenum on that runs 9's and what power did it make, is it full street trim & weight. best way to test them would be to use one engine that is tuned for say eg (nizpro plenum) then without any tune change swap them over and see what results show. Dont know if a Flow bench would show much differance, best thing would be to add a camera just before Throttle body with use of a dye and observe the flow patterns at different boost load and rpm while at the same time power levels being made on dyno. just noticed the Gtech car runs a nizpro plenum and runs deep into the 9's, it must be better than the PW one. Was it the Tisso ute that ran over 600rwkw using a Plazmaman plenum, also from Hi Torque is another Yellow F6 running Plazmaman plenum cooler and pipe work also just realed of a tyre frying 740+ odd rwhp. What cars at the top of the drag list are running what plenum.