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Only way to do this would be for someone who has a good contact from a Media source to get a National partition done on how we would all want the revenue rising scam stopped and really concentrate on Driver Education programs for learning and reabilitating bad drivers. best to try to get a Motoring Authority to help eg RACQ, NRMA, Wheels, Motor etc Going from website to website is only going to go nowhere unless Media is used and it is done at national level. I will support this as best I can by giving my vote, cant help fiancially or have no contact in the Media. Good luck, will keep watching to see where this goes, Hope there will be a win for the people.

Does anyone know what mods aomic does to the pump as Im looking at getting one but can't justify the extra cost they are charging ifs its just for a billet backing thrust plate & a softer rate releif spring. Or have they just machined the releif hole to a closer open position to give earlier releif and extra volume of releif? Even if they have done all the above I think it is a bit pricy as I have seen complete Sierra Cosworth race pumps cheaper than the Billet Gears and probably of better quality than the falcon ones. even after the Atomic mods. As for Harmonic Balancers I think I saw on there Web site, Ross claim there Metal Jacket series are the best on the market

Could you explain what makes the FG gears stronger, are they better material or designed better?

JuLooking at best options and info for others as well. In basic, What parts are better than the BA engine internals Eg Rods. Is the FG Crank a Steel Crank or Cast like BA? Obliviously the F6 will have the strongest internals but which other models received The same? EG gas engine I have a Low K BA/BF engine I’m using for my build, with Argo Rods, Ross Pistons and Crow Springs and Retainers so far. Looking at Safe 450rwkw. I will be purchasing: Billet Oil Pump Gears Head Studs Main Girdle & main Studs Gaskets Bearings Etc. Any info will be appreciated by self and others looking to build a engine. Thanks Paul

Sorry *Beep*,cant as at work, last day Ya, Parts & Camera are at home. Mate its christmas and will promise I will have it up before next christmas just for you. have to try to finish off christmas shopping tomorrow, havn't even got the wife anything as yet and if I miss that you all know what I'll have to face. So Will try tomorrow night if I get a chance. Havn't even been home since last post due to having to help a friend in need. Anyone urgently needing to get the pieces could just go into a Irrigation shop and just ask for nossles, anti drip valves and hose required. I was originally going to go with a 12v Irrigation pump but a Windscreen Washer Pump should be fine and alot cheaper. I purchased 1/2" hose that was to go from pump accross top of IC core and back along the base with the valves to screw into it with nossles on ends. Now I am just going to get 2 Falcon Windscreen pumps fitted to a custom tank, some 4mm Silicone hose, Run 2 nossles from each pump. I wont be fitting it till I sort out my engine or new engine, so dont be waiting on any installation pictures as yet. I will still take pictures of the valves and nossles and add the invoice details.

Just be patient, I will put something together, just a little busy at moment, hell I'm suppose to be at friends house half a hour ago but have had so many things to be done. Its that time of year.

I got some nozzles from a irrigation shop. They suggested a certain type which will not drip when pressure drops after pump switchs off. It is a valve that sits between the nozzle and hose. Very important if you want to use it on the track as if your car is found to drip fluid you wont be able to run it. If interested I will try to locate the receipt to pass on part number. By memory cost a huge $30, that's piping, nossles, valves.

If you wanted to you could have my old long engine for $1500 plus freight, pull one good rod and piston from your broken engine to make a good one. Would also need a sump or weld a plate to bottom of mine. Piston may even be ok as it looks intact and moves freely in the bore, but I wouldn't risk it, better to change it. Big End Bearing was good, once again while it is out I would also replace them. It also has Nizpro Valve Springs and never had any valve float with 16psi of boost. PM if you want to know more. Other than that I will fix it once I locate a Rod, Piston & Sump As well hone - rering, New Bearings and sell it for $2500 plus Freight.

Mine let Number 6 rod go, big end intacy as well piston still intact moves freely in bore. No damage to block just hole in sump. On inspection of the rod at big end it appears to have had a small porus big in the middle. This may have been why mine failed. Not to mention I'm running TO4z, on custom Manifold and plazmaman intake, HDI Cooler. Didn't really expect mine to last long. If your Top end escaped damage just go buy a FG F6 Bottom end, I was Quoted $2700 but may be a cheaper price as they always usually give me discounted prices. Good Luck PS I'm still chasing a Good Rod & Piston to fix mine, so if anyone has one please PM me.

Sweet 4" over the diff, that would have taken some close fitting and time, I used a 3" magnaflow on a 351w TD Cortina I had years ago after reading a comparsion on the 10 top mufflers at the time, they where like 3rd best overall best equal Flow & the cheapest. Also produced a nice sweet sound at WOT with unattracting sound while cruising. Car went very well and impressed lots. Been thinking of also swapping the X-Force center for a Magnaflow but dont know if its the right move as my X-Force system seems to be working quite well. It would be good if I could find some CFM readings for the X-Force & Magnaflow Muffler.

First of all good luck on getting a Ten. See you a making the power to get it there easily, did you make that power with the exhaust the way it is currently or was that pre adding the split and extra muffler. just asking as the split being well done could have been better with a weld on around the the end of the larger pipe so you could have grinded it smooth for minute better flow. Also the fact that the single splits into 2 would also hurt exhaust flow aswell the extra bends in the flow path. I have been thinking of adding a second outlet on the left on mine but only a fake, just havn't been able to find any cannons that have a 3.5" internal diameter. What internal diameter are the ones you have chose. The other option I'm thinking about is to run a hot dog with a 4" dumpy exit with fake dumpy other side. I have wanted to do this from the begining as never liked the X-Force going from single 3.5" into a twim exit muffler. As soon as I build my engine and do the driveshafts I will also be aiming to get that first manual 10, just hope I can before you get there. Good luck

I'm in the process of wanting to join the 400rwkw+ club. Car is BA XR6T Sedan with T56 Mods so far are TO4z Taz Merged Turbo Manifold Progate 50 Wastegate HDI GT Series Cooler Plazmaman Plenum and Piping X-Force Exhaust Etc Car was performing extremely well with 8psi tune and 8psi WG Spring Not sure what boost was running but would estimate approx 12psi as had it set at 17psi when first fitted but the cheap Digital Super cheap gauge died twice. At 17psi 90k 3rd gear it would instant full lock and hit rev limiter with 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's just by WOT and coming on boost approx 2200-2300 Anyway dropped the boost back within a few days as didn't want to break engine but evenually it dropped number 6 rod. Getting to the new engine I have the following parts so far Low K atom engine BF? Ross Forged Pistons Argo Rods Powerbond 20% Underdrive Pully Wondering who is running main girdle or are they not required at this power concidering it was already making the power before the rod let go. Also will the Powerbond Balancer be up to the ask or should I go with a Ross Metal Jacket. Will OEm head Gasket survive with using ARP Head Studs Thinking of using my original head as it is already fitted with nizpro Springs. Later will upgrade the atmo head with Ferrera Valves and Crow Springs. I will be aiming at running 15psi street and once I do CV's I will go up to 25psi for track duty. I'm trying to get the car mobile again with a very limited buget so need to cut cost where I can. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Cheers Paul

Dont know if any truth in it, but heard a rumour that Ambrose was coming back to Ford to drive a FPR car. Anyone else heard anything of it or is it just someones wishful thinking.

So whats the procedure, pay now or pay when order goes in? If pay now do we still have to wait till the 3 weeks are up? How much is Postage to QLD 4124? Also price for Pipe to suit running 600x300x75 cooler as well 3 inch air box set up. Battery will go to boot. It will be for a friend, who keeps wanting to steal my Black Powder Coated one.

Sorry, Was ment to be Dodgy.

Doggy, stay clear

Bit late there for help, Sorry guys I had sorted it ages ago. It ended up being a faulty dongle. Herrods price is very cheap as it cost me $1300 but maybe the dollar was worst then. I use the Livewire software for data logging. I have a 51mm PLX Devices gauge setup for monitoring the AFR or Lambda. These gauge setups are orsm, with being able to select either anologe, digital, graph or multi sensor display. Also have the option of making your own gauge. Its a Oled display. For more info have a look at PLX Devices Inc. - Multi Gauges, Single Gauges, Sensor Modules, Wideband Air Fuel Ratio, Data Logging, Fuel Saving / Scan Tools I will be doing a video of my Oil Pressure and AFR once I find out the best way to convert and post up for displaying. Just to say how good these are, well on graph mode you can see the pulsations in the oil pressure. If need any help just PM a email and if you are lucky enough IH8TOADS may help also as he has been of some great help. Hope I have been of the same for him.

And my 60lb Deka's I have been struggling to make them richer as I was around 16 to 17 afr's till this week and now they are just a tad lean at 4.8-5.1 using the adaptive. Mine has never richened up even letting idle for approx 5 minutes. If your tuner cant get them right find another or purchase the Racer Pro tuning package so you can tune it yourself. You will need a accurate Wideband AFR/Lambda gauge though as well. If you have no idea on tuning its not a option I would suggest do tackle, best to just leave it stock.

HDI GT Series 600x300x75 - BA STD Turbo Manual With fueling problems still went 116mph at 12.902. Have TO4z now and it is still working well, yet to track run as still havn't fitted surge tank. Very HAPPY.

He is lucky to even have got a page, as usually there isn't any ford in Australia good enough to show in there pages full of gm crap. I stopped buying sm years ago because of there reply to a Chryslers fan who asked them why they dont show anywhere near as half as many fords and only the odd Chrysler. There reply was - There isn't any good enough fords or chryslers to be shown. May pick it up and have a look at the stands when I see it, but wont be buying it.

Have a look a PLX Devices they do a I-Pod type setup that I think you can run what ever sensor combo to them as well they also so do a OBD2 reader that will display on there Gauges. All you would need to do is make a holder if you can use the I pod or there iMFD Data Logger. Only down side is you need to purchase from the States unless someone can supply them here. I'm Currently using 2 of there 52mm Gauge Monitors, one for Wideband AFR/Lambda and the other for Oil Pressure. I have found them to be very accurrate and you can even see the pulsations in the oil pressure reading. Website PLX Devices Inc. - Multi Gauges, Single Gauges, Sensor Modules, Wideband Air Fuel Ratio, Data Logging, Fuel Saving / Scan Tools Good Luck

Could not find one gm boy, so disapointed. Wanted revenge so badly. Always next weekend.

Just keep clear of the super cheap digitals as they are inaccurate as well very slow response. Mechanical are usually the best option but there is electrical that are as good if not better. I'm running a PLX wideband setup that uses a 52mm monitor which can customize your own display or use the default displays with whatever background picture you like. The PLX Devices company are US based and they have won numerous awards for there design. Features on my AFR are different displays, anologe, digital, graph with max and min values. You can also setup warnings. You can display 4 senors on it at one time. They also do a OBD2 setup. Have a look at there web site, which you can also purchase from. Cant wait till my Oil Pressure arrives within this week. Next I'm ordering a Boost setup. I'm only using the 3 monitors as to fill the tripod, if I wanted to I could just buy the required sensors and use the monitor. When I purchased the AFR approx 2 years ago it cost me $500 which was $160 odd cheaper than the Autometer cobalt. I'm glad I purchased it as it craps all over the Autometer.

Its a lot nicer than the phantom, its deeper, and a bit darker.