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I have purchased mine from crow, I was a bit hesitant to do so as last cam I purchased from crow had casting dags all over it which caused it to fowl on the 200 rods in a crossflow. Not only that the radius on the bearing journals where jagged as if the cutter/grinder was skipping. Anyway I purchased the ovate with moly retainers and some have 1mm difference in free height. It's ok as I will be adjusting seat pressure with shims anyway but pretty poor considering they are suppose to be a quality product. I was originally going to use a v8 set of comp cams springs which where dearer than the crow but cheaper than atomic. And I would have 8 spares. I could of picked the best matched having the extras. If anyone wants these crow set I will sell them for $420 pm me, if not they go on the engine once I'm on Chrissy holidays.

I do when some P plater with his vn 3.8 try's running me. Could not bother changing back to 2nd to waste my tyres or fuel. Was only making a statement on drivability of the sc v8 compared to t6. Turbo lag!

Think about it turbos come on in a big rush so yes down low should be better. Supercharger is progressive in power delivery so runs harder the the revs raise. But one thing you can't discredit is displacement will win if both engines are equal on efficiency. Both engines like to rev albiet the i6 only safe to 6500 due to oil pump design and mainly crank balance and length. The GT and GS suppose to have steel crank and forged rods standard. The i6 has been superseded. I'm sad and wish it hadn't as I to am owner of a i6. Cranny if you buy a f6 over a GT I pity you as you will regret not going with the GT or even a GS. If want a very quick I6 lots spent buy me the GT I will swap you. GT / GS = 5.0l steel crank, forged rods F6 = 4.0l cast long flexing crank, plastic rods Also you make mention of the 80-120 yes right in the meat of the low down turbo rush. Try 6th gear 60k and I bet the the F6 gets flogged.

Who's cars that is it real or a photo shop job. Missed it. The red fg with black bonnet pumped guards

Yes my mother drives harder and she's a geandma of 60yo. As said in my earlier post just sounded like 2nd & 3rd gear. Should added sounded like a few squirts here & there.

Probably was me asking approx 18-24 months ago. Every time I set it it would work but I could not get it to Shut down the limiter once over the set speed. I may have troubles as mine was originally t5 and I changed it to t56. My reverse lockout is wired into the brake switch. I would still like to know what I need to get to function correctly. My cars been of the road now for over 12 months because Of a bad oil leak from sump, big hole under where number 6 Conrod once lived. It would be great to sort this for once I get my car back on road.

Sound like it was only 2nd & 3rd gear, very tight track if you look at motor mag test it's the top end of the GT that really shines. The GT also sounded like it was struggling to get power down and the driver only using Low percentage of throttle. Motor mag tested the f6 & gts and by 180 the GT had put 80m on the gts & the f6 only 25m. Just look at Simons gs ute XFT and to run 11.725 @ 139mph just with tune and wider tyres. Us T6 guys are going to get wooped. Also the f6 in clip was already on track and may have had better tyre temp as for the GT entering with cold tyres and brakes etc. Not a very good comparo as we don't know anything about it.

Went into ford today to inquire about main girdle Windage tray for my new BA engine build. Anyway they list different part number for BA and fg turbo with the fg one being the cheaper option. What I would like to know is what the difference is and will they fit the BA engine. If they don't fit why and is it worth making it fit if practical. Are they thicker or stronger? I'm in need of one urgent as well sump. If anyone has one local to Brisbane let me know.

I have had a odyssey 925 die 1 week before it's warranty and lucky got a replacement. Now my car has been off road for just over 12 months due to hole in sump and building new engine bit at a time. I am expecting the battery to be stuffed but won't know till I try it. I have had it on maintenance charge for the last couple of months. If I do need a new battery will I be able to get one of these batteries quickly from you or supplier.

Ya DJR is staying. Brings me to the next concern I raised earlier post. About how every other team driver has out driven Jnr Johnson. 2 Car team is Courtney staying or going, if he does stay hope the dont drop webb as he to can even finish better than Jnr. If he is going who is going to be the lead driver, hope not Jnr as he will cause DJR to fold. And Webb wont have the experience to fill courtneys spot? What a finish today, there will be tears over that one. Couldn't beleive FPR working on car in pit lane, didn't think they where allow to do that anyway to that extent. If only they put it in the garage and got into it, they could of probably got it out before Courtney as it didn't look as badly damage as either Courtneys or Whincups.

That must be one quick car. Don't see to many pro cars turn tyres half track and head for the sky. Anyone know what it has run. Driver is insane as keeps into it even when it pulls top gear and frys the tyres or clutch as was pretty black on the smoke unless it is dumping fuel tanker loads of fuel into it and causing all that black smoke. And even stays in it as wheels start to lift till point it gets off the ground. Wonder what boost it runs as was pretty loud on spool. Extremely impressive Ford rule

Orsm. Should be a rocket with the weight advantage. Though a few times of doing same but just love every other aspect if the barra's. However my son has just started working and what we have planned is ef el Xr for him to start off and either Get another and slowly build doing same as you or what he Really wants is to find a td cortina and fit barra turbo to it. Since the release of the coyote I may get him to go that way as having the sweet sound of a sc v8 is the ultimate. All will come down to if it's possible to squeeze it in and costs and being able to get it all. I build a 351w td cortina a few years ago and he loved it and that's his main desire but it's finding one that's his main problem. Good luck on your build, let me know how it turns out if you will as may be able to offer me s few pointers if we head that way too.

Just hate how it all comes down to the dollar. No loyalty anymore with most. HellI will drive falcon for free but only way to get me In a crummydore would be in a herse. Steven Richards will never replace his father and same with the likes of Steven Johnson. Both have wasted good opportunities for other more talented drivers with greater desire to win from being in there cars. Should be good with Will joining Frosty. But poor DJR need to find to top level drivers if Courtney abandons Djr. Didn't djr pay Courtney 1 mill for this season. Isn't that enough. I think it's so disrespectful if he does go as Djr pay him the most he had ever been contracted to and gave him a car to take this championship which he would have done by now if it wasn't for his stupid restart at gc mind you penalties that weekend seemed a bit biased considering Tanders withdrawal of mechicsl black flag for leaking fluid and none for the lose body work. As well Kelly putting steven Johnson and slade? In the wall And no penalty etc eta. I feel it's low as Djr have struggled for many years now and put a lot on the line for Courtney and this is how he may repay Djr. If so hope carma gets him just as Murphy copped it after taking Ambrose out at Bathurst. Don't think murph has won a race since. Sorry for big rant, just adding my 2c worth. So what or who is next on gmh list to buy so they may have chance of winning a championship. Maybe they may pay the master r Kelly to take out Courtney so whincup gets the champ for them. It's possible as it's happened before. Half as many fords to Holdens and we still are the dominant make. Go ford

Thanks heaps again

I'm running 3.45 gears t56 BA sedan to4z with taz manifold, Plazmamaman plenum, hdi GT series ic, 4 inch dump with progate 50 separate 2 inch wastegate pipe merge at bend just befoe going into x force single 3.5 system. Cat open to 4 inch exit as per standard x force 3.5. Starts building boost in 6 gear 60kph think approx 1100 rpm making. From 100kph hits 17psi by 160kph. I find it very responsive compared to oem setup, I had orsm fuel Eco of 8.8l to 100k highway. Little tricky to get off line would feel 3.73 ratio would be better to get off line with better Eco city with slightly hurting highway. And lower you go the more easier control to get off line. I don't think boost under load is going to differ a great deal as the weight of these falcons will still load up hard even with 4.1s. As for speed in gears you need to measure tyre diameter work out circumference and multiply by gearing. Tyre smoke will come down to quality of tyre and suspension set up. I know mine running pedders extreme with Toyo proxy 4's 265x30x19 struggle For grip 1st, 2nd when running 12 psi boost and useless 1st 2nd & 3rd when run 17psi boost. Had nangkangs prior to the toyo's and they where like driving in the wet so bad I had A ve ss beat me till 3rd before being able to peddle it and pass it. The nangkangs where worst than the traction problems I have running 17psi on the toy's. Also just to add on the gear ratios the to4z with it's early boost less lag than say eg gt45 that makes boost higher in the rpm will not suffer as much with tall gearing. I'm not to concerned with the gearing as much as traction and the standard drive shafts Breaking. Once I do the driveshafts run slicks then maybe running low gears will be of advantage to me. Hope some of this is was helpful.

Thanks again for all the help. Last thing wanting to do is pull the engine or box out Again after having it off the road for so long to fix A dam oil leak. I am using Permaseal gaskets hope the rear main seal is as good as the oem seal. Maybe I should also find out weather I should be using the Hylomer with the mls head gasket. Probably not as it may have a bonding coat already but will contact Permaseal to see what they say.

Spoolxr6 yes that's the spot, between main cap 7 and block. I have pressure pack can of the acl hylomer Is it same stuff as the brush on or is the brush on more suited for any reason. Is there different grades or is it all the same.

Thanks heaps Very appreciated.

Thanks will ring today.

Just want to know if loctite 5900 is the only option for sealing rear main cap as specified by ford. I would not mine using it if could purchase in tube and not Cartridge which I have been quoted $75 dollars for. Concidering only need 2 small beads and won't have use for it for years to come unless I have engine failure or build another for someone else. So if can purchase smaller quantity or equivalent let me know. Let me know if you have used another brand successfully. If anyone has some 5900 local to Logan city QLD I can pinch 2 beads from it would be appreciated. Will even chuck in a 6 pack for it.

Thanks Ian. Will be able to continue the build. So looking forward to having the power again But with a engine that can cope.

thanks guys, yes know usually start center and work out, just be good to check what manual lists for sequence. Doing rod bolts to stretch as argo rods with ARP 2000 bolts. And using ARP headstuds I know head studs are torque to yeild(TTY) but wasn't aware mains where? can someone confirm weather they are or not. The V8 seems to have TTY main bolts as they are 40nm then 90deg So maybe the I6 is as well. Also the main bolt sequence is not circular as it crosses diagonally. Goldie you sure on Main Torque as that suggests they arnt TTY Bolts This is my first late six Im putting together, used to building Clevo's & Windsor v8's. So I want to build it to the book.

I require urgently I6 Main Bolt Torgue and Torquing Sequence (Desperate feel like going to start crying one day soon). Think Im cursed to get my car back on the road after a rod let go Halloween 09. Everything went wrong that night, We missed some of our friends that we where to meet up with that night. Number 6 conrod let go We had to sit in the car for hours with windows up due to rain while waiting for Tow Truck Got Towie from hell, driving that fast the car was moving around on tray oil not helping from hole in sump, cutting lanes through round a bouts did not get passed once by another vehicle all the way home 120k trip. Had bank atm withdrawl problems to pay tow, lucky for friends chipping in. Car gets backed off tilt tray with tyres rolling trough oil all over tray Oil tracks all over my garage floor, had to put car up on stands remove wheels scrub wheels and floor. my new alloy race jack would not lift lucky had a second old jack. Went to drop friends off with sisters car and its battery was flat and key would not open doors (R31 Skyline). That was all that night. Since I have had to fight for any spare cash with wife as she hates the car and doesnt want to ever let me drive it again as she is petrified of it. The workshop I had do the machining promissed it be done for my annual leave but did not and just kept bullsh#tting me. Didn't get it back till 4.30pm friday last day of my leave. Last weekend went to assemble and my compressor seized so could not blow oil galleries out. Borrowed a friends compressor for this weekend and could not find the workshop disk looked through whole house, wife found it today after lunch, says it was in my daughters disk holder in her room, questionable, maybe she was hiding it. Anyway chuck it in laptop and wella no I6 Engine assembly section. Files go 300-00-00 then 300-00-01c which is the V8 section so think missing file/s may be either 300-00-01a or 300-00-01b. Help need specs asap before you see a grown man cry. Im Logan City area QLD if someone has a manual near by I can look at.

Urgent need engine assembly section as Workshop CD I purchased off ebay over 12mths ago seems to have everything except the engine assembly, Torque and sequence section. Has the V8 section but not the I6, so pissed off as my new engine is sitting with crank in position but cant go any further. Finally got all parts since original engine dropped a rod Haloween 09. Been struggling to get my baby back on road and it just seems I'm cursed as have had so many hurdles to get this thing running again. So many that it is unbeleiveable. Please help if you can. At least the Main Bolts Torque Specs and tightening sequence as can work rest out.

What pump did you find? Atomic or another option?