01txr

Have heard the white is best seller or best price holder. Not 100% on which but just something I heard so maybe why they won't budge. As for manuals in traffic how crap, I own a t56 with twin plate CI clutch and over 400rwkw, it was fine in traffic unless it actually stopped dead, you could idle it in 1st as low as 5k with clutch full engaged. Even up slight inclines as it's auto stall would raise it's revs when needed. Also I have found this CI twin to be lighter than the exede single it replaced. Have been told a twin does not need the presure a single does. You don't have to drive manuals hard for them to be drivable, not unless it's a gutless high revving power plant that it's torque and hp does nothing till it's in the high rpm range. The GT has huge low down torque and you would only be idling around at speed limits. Any throttle and your exceeded speed limit before you select 3rd. Worse thing will be trying to keep it at 60k in 5th or top. That's what pisses me, car is idling nicely in top being very efficient and then some idiot decides to be very safe by doing 50k in the 60k zone and I have to shift down. Same as crap on highways, set your cruise and you always have to keep resetting it because of those same idiots, even worst as they sit in right lane holding everyone up. GT = Grand Tourer Drivers car for clocking up k after k of all types of road especially challenging corners, quick shifting and clutching to get the best out of the driving experience. Gearing down to help slow under heavy braking etc eta All I can say is you will regret not getting a manual more than not getting a auto. End of all is why buy a GT if you are not going to drive it.

What worm said. Don't buy if it's 5 speed. Mine was making 275rw then I added x-force system and it started to whine like a v8 supercar box. Cost me $5000 for a blueprinted t56. T56 are cheaper now to pick up but even still better toget factory t56 as reverse lick out works correctly through ecu and ecu is set for 6sp not 5sp. I have my reverse lick out wired to brake switch so to slot reverse brake gas to be depressed. Just can't set any perimeters in tune for 6th gear. Also if it's series 1 BA don't push it any harder as rods wil break. On stripes, heat gun is ok just make sure don't over heat paint. If you can just peel them I have found olive oil to get rid of glue residue. Also pending glue a good polish will work as well. Good luck on the t. They are orsm only bettered by the new GT.

Great rider, so many times I feel like doing the same but in my car, hate traffic, it's usually caused by some fwit who can't drive causing accident or doesn't understand green means go or give way does not mean you have to stop. That probably was a 2 hour drive done in a fraction of the time. Mine you if he broke my mirror or hit my car I would chase him down and ? No chance through traffic though.

Excuse some words in my previous post, bloody word correction on these iPhones are crap. Also no option to edit the post? Anyway should be able to work out what most of the strange words are. I have to start proof reading before posting.

Own a hi po ba with t56 I fitted as well ci twin plate clutch and have driven acres auto's It's fun in sport shift but so boring, put foot down and go, my grandma can do that. Another thing is the difference with a supercharger to turbo is turbo slows down on gear change and needs to build speed back up for max boost. I think you will find since the supercharger is spinning in relation to revs it won't suffer spool up time so not as bad a difference from constant power flow, now the auto will be quicker as gear change shift should be quicker than you can change gears in manual not so bad if you are game flat shifting. The auto drains more power to drive the wheels than a manual so advantage to manual. Now if you want to have some fun a drive a track day a manual is far better suited as many times you need to be able to modulate clutch to get the best out of a corner, the auto is just going to pick a gear. Also the feeling of driving hard through any windy road gearing up and down just can't be beat. If you are a driver and like to push hard buy the manual If you are the opposite buy a hat recline the seat and cruise. I hate when a starter motor dies or battery dies you have to fix it there or have it fixed as with the manual you can still drive it and if you park on a hill everytime you continue to drive that's as long as the dud battery does still give some power to drive the electrics. Every auto I have owned has eventually leaked, broken or both. Some fun with autos, can line lock them but it burns out the clutches. Drive in reverse slam 1st but blows them up after a few times. Best of all remove them put manual in and drop the removed auto on a hsv roof Seriously drive both first it's your choicein the end as it all depends on what you want from it. If planning big power the manual seems to be a stronger box unless the GT's auto has been improved over the earlier versions. Good luck I envy you if you get one, wish I could.

In no evidence no pitting The crown and land may have broken from piston smashing into the valves as 3 hard contacts made with 1 light. Thinking about it a but more now if rod breaks from combustion charge piston would not have traveled back up and hit valves. If it was det causing the rid to break meaning it is traveling up but det is forcing it down so rid gives. Why did valves hit piston? When I remove the nizpro valve springs I will check installed height pressures and open just incase it may have been valves floating. Mine you it was only a part throttle squirt in 2nd that caused it. Cold wet night maybe it spiked on boost and caused it Doubt it though on it's current set up and when it had standard turbo set up it would over boost to 21psi and never had valve float then. Only running 12 psi now and never seen it over boost as progate 50 seems to do it's job except it being 8psi spring and it making 12 psi on it. Enough on this i6 of mine, if anyone wants to help me figure out it's cause pm me. I have a few other possibles. Back to this beast GT 335 if someone breaks a rod in south east QLD make sure to post up hi res pictures sowe can compare the differences in material structure. This will be a but of a wait though as dint think anyone will break one soon. You guys i6 faithfuls do understand the difference between cast and forged and that there is numerous grades of metals and strengthening processes. If you don't you need to learn about it so you have a idea why us that do say the coyote has a strong bottom end. It's not just the stroke bore ratio or the size of component but the strength of the material used. Another thing I have not looked at is what piston speed the i6 has as it to is a limiting factor in how hard you can rev it. Piston speed is faster with longer stroke engines. In each revolution it makes to same number of revolution a shorter stroke engine does, it has to travel further hence piston speed is greater. The faster a piston travels the greater inertia placed on it. That's another reason why a short stroke engine is safer at higher revs. Xr09 I feel the coyote will be cheaper to build as there will be a way larger aftermarket as it Is manufactured for both AU & US. The AU i6 is pure AU only and very rarely able to get parts that fit from a US manufacturer. Prices will be better do to competition between manufacturers. Yes v8 supercar valve trains cost are extreme, but unless this coyote engine goes into race competition in a category like v8 supercars it does not need that sort of valve train. Also snother thing is we have seen what so far the coyote can make on standard boost in compartment to the I6 so there is a spring advantage straight up. The more boost the better and dear the valve train has to be. I know I could have purchased a set of Comp Cam springs at a cheaper price to Atomic And pretty sure it was a v8 set meaning I would have received 8 extra. So better quality springs cheaper. Knowing what companies like the big name US ones are like I'm sure they will manufacture some excellent performance parts to suit high revving high boost huge power coyotes at affordable prices, and have them on shelf ready to sell. Do a you tube search on the stangs and ford GT and see how many 7 second late model stangs there is and how many over 1000hp gt's there are. Then search same for our i6. Now those will mostly be the old slug 4.6 & 5.4 engines. Havn't checked as late on what the new v8 is doing over there. There probably is more listed aftermarket performance parts already for the coyote Then what is available here for our i6. I know I can buy a scat forged steel stroker crank here for under $2000 for a 302w How much for a crank of same quality for the i6. I have heard $6000 plus and they still arnt guaranteed for big revs and power like 2j & rb's. I would say a coyote scat crank won't be much more unless lack of demand for it pushes the price up as the oem crank maybe adequate. Same with conrods I did see someone selling scat forged rods at one stage for our i6 and they where only $700 a set, half the price of a atomic or Argo at the time. Federal mogul also where doing a high performance oil pump for our 5.4 at a 1/3 the cost of a atomic pump. Sorry the i6 can't possible ever be able to out do the coyote in standard trim or aftermarket. Show some sort of evidence proving it can.

Mr bean, As soft as I could make it running 8 psi spring in progate 50. Taking boost down to as low as possible through tune. However it was still spoiling as low as 1100 rpm in 6th around 60 - 70 k and making full boost of 12 psi by 2400. To4z, Plazmaman plenum, hdi GT series ic, x force 3.5 cat back, custom Taz manifold, custom 4" dump sep wastegate pipe. Nizpro v springs etc eta. Just not a strong enough engine to handle power mods. I knew it would not last but was hoping it would till I built new engine. Was hoping to have new engine finished over my 3 weeks off over Christmas but some more problem have come about. All cylinders burning clean, no det evidence, AFR's where sweet. Rod has what looks to be a casting air pocket in the middle of break on big end of rod. Now not certain if piston failed first or the flaw in the rod was cause. If it was piston it was not from ceasing as it was moving freely in bore, maybe oil caused det but it didn't have and oil sludge on it ir wasn't any worst for carbon then other cylinders. Plugs all look identical. A very hard one to locate cause other than power it was making being most likely. I set rev limit to 6200rpm as well. No didn't dyno it, tune by drive. It had out performed a few shop tune i6s running similar if not bigger setups. One of them making 600rwhp pump fuel Gt45 turbo. Can't wait for once I can afford completing new engine, some dollars spent already and still more yet. Probably still get beaten by a tune only GT. Dam

Hope this picture above works.first time trying to add picture using iPhone If not disregard this post. That is my i6 rod & piston, have you noticed how it has tried to make it self shorter by Making the beam disappear. It to doesn't like being thrown so far in one direction and smashed back in the opposite direction also with other axis forces and harmonics at same time from the poorly designed cheap crank. It broke and I only was just touching the gas pedal. I bet we won't see to many of the coyote rods like this.

Thanks Just going to use a XT girdle. Will drill out spot welds to remove baffle plate splash shield piece for turbo oil return off my damaged girdle And tack it in place onto the XT one as it is the only difference. Or if I can scrounge enough doe I will get a atomic girdle.

A flat 4 or 6 is not a inline 4 or 6 it's a horizontally opposed engine if any thing it is closer to a v than and inline. I admit I'm no expert and maybe whatever bosch has quoted is more correct and I should choose my wording more carefully. I was trying to get across mostly that the i6 under square ling stroke engine could never be as smooth as a over square short stroke engine that has 2 more ignitions per revelution. V12 or any engine that has more ignition cycles will usually be a smother engine due to it's ignition pulses. Each engine will differ pending how well the counterweighted balancing is designed along with quality of materials used and valve timing and tuning. Yes you have a point, v8's are cheaper to build than v12's w12's due to less parts but in saying that a 4 or a 6 should be cheaper again yet the v8 is the choice. A top line v8 race engine is not cheap and people do have money just look at the twin turbo lambo's throughout you tube, some extremely tuff examples but still they are not quicker than a well sorted v8. On the other hand due to there design they will toast a v8 at high revs hi speed what they where designed for. Every engine has it's design purpose weather it's a low revving torque engine for hauling or a high revving engine for high speed. The ford i6 is great for what it is in standard form. It does not need to have it's guts revved out to get it going allowing it to nit wear out as quick as a engine you have to rev. A good example is a na ford 6 v's a na skyline 6 You have to bounce the skyline off the tacho to be competitive with a ford 6. Street driving is so much better for the ford but track where you are revving the crap out of each the skyline will be the better choice. Its all where the efficiency of engine design works best. A squared or over square v8 falls in the middle of most designs when compared with same capacity a long stroked 6 will develop more low down torque but won't have the top end the v8 has and a short stroke v12 won't have the low down that a v8 has but will have the power up top the v8 lacks. This would be a reason why the v8 is chosen over others as it is the closest thing to both senarios. However all this changes with different set ups, turbo verse sc, short stroke v's long stroke engine capacities and numerous other things. The i6 looses don't low due to spool, the v8 gains low down with help of sc. The i6 is not safe to rev high the coyote is that's the main reason why the coyote wins. Then you have the extra 1l of capacity as well. If the coyote had a long stroke small bore and cast crank it would be closer in performance. With the sc and the extra stroke larger capacity it would turn tyres all gears but loose it's top end. It would be poo as it would be torque limited so it didn't rip the driveline from the chassis and was safe to drive. Same would go for the i6 if you where able to take the bore out to over square it would rev and make big power but it would need a very strong crank it would also improve on the capacity. Only bad thing would be it would be spastic when boost came on and would also be limited for safety. In the end they have been built and the f6 is unlucky not to have what the coyote has. Turbo i6 torque works and so does v8 horsepower sc.

No cause the i6 is in the same class as a v12 and it has a turbo and it is the best motor in the world. Next they will be saying the f6 can beat a veyron because it's a better balanced engine and has a bugger turbo. Sorry don't mean to be a smart ass but come on amitt what is real and don't live in dream land. Winstor the whole purpose of the GS is to be a in between of the GT which it fills perfectly. Yes would be nice to have the same GT f6 or GT-e kit but then it would be the better bfyb then the GT. Maybe it should have the fpv kit and loose the blower with a slight more sport tune than xr8. I'm sure ford gave done there home work to market compartment and that's why it is as it is. Imagine the gts guy who mistakes it as just a xr8 he will be so disappointed a xr8 just toasted him. If I purchased the GS I would either rebadge it as xr8 or debadge it so to keep them guessing. However it would be hard to hide that sc whine.

Benny buy a ex demo if the price concerns you. Does not matter if new or ex demo as soon as you drive it out there driveway they will be of same value. Research everything before you make a purchase and make sure it's what you are going to be happy with. A GT is very hard to beat for grin value especially one that is better then the rest of the ford range. People have owned early GT's for a reason, there is no where near the following for a f6 or Xr.

All sorts of engine design has been used in motorsport to the point of private business building there own engines. Still they choose a v8 over anything else. What is the quickest accelerating combustion envi e in the world. V8 top fuel. Now if it was possible to do better with a i6 or anything other than a v8 im sure it Would be used as race cars are built around engine and driver compartment as well as rule restrictions. Let's focus on Australian prostock, pro street, mod street etc. The fastestest cars are v8 once again v8's you have Campo with his twin turbo V8 being fastest turbo car in Australia. Manswetto v8 Capri being fastest na car in Australia. The last time I looked the top 10 cars in all these classes where all v8 powered. Bit of a pattern here. Did the manswetto Capri run a 7 over 1/4 as well. I have never seen a blown i6 ford run anywhere near this time little than a na one even when it has been fitted to a light weight Smaller car. Also take note of what mr bean mentioned as he is spot on with the balance issues of our i6s. The i6 is a engine that can make huge power due to it's cylinder head design along with it's huge torque with it's long stroke but it is not a strong reliable engine that can be rev'd hard for extended periods as with time it will shake it self to pieces. You find huge long stroke i6's in trucks, ships, trains and earth moving equipment as they require the low rev torque capability of it's design. From the compartment on the wiki they will be stating between the v8 with same stroke same bore configuration in compartment of balance. Problem is in same configuration there is a displacement difference. The i6 has still lost as displacement is the most key element of power. Simply put a under square long stroke engine is a torque engine designed for trucks. A over square shot stroke engine is a high revving horsepower engine. You can not compare a v12 short stroke very well balanced supercar engine with a long stroke i6 it will never have the same smoothness of the v12 or of a over square v8 even with steel crank unless stroke is reduced. In stead of picking quotes from wiki go talk to atomic or nizpro or any other known engine builders and ask them if the ford i6 is a better balanced engine then the new coyote. How many i6's have broken due to rods, why does the 2j make more power. It's the poor crank stroke design (truck) they is the limiting factor of the ford i6. The i6 is a great street engine if built to be what it was designed for, low revs huge low down grunt. It just does not make a reliable race engine. The other problem is you can only make so much low down torque due to what we all know traction problem. Now the coyote can match it with it's extra capacity and better it with it's high revving horsepower. I6 looses sorry, I to am sad to that my i6 has been out done and can accept the reality of it. Kpm tune only already has surpassed what has been achieve in 7 plus years of developing the i6 in just 4 days of developing the power the coyote makes. It is making more power at standard boost than most i6's with double the boost. Last I knew is that bosch was a great auto electrical manufacturer not a engine manufacturer little than a performance race engine manufacturer. Maybe they are building the next i6 Ferrari engine that I didn't know about. It a v8 is good enough for the most successful auto motive companies in the world to use it must be a great thing. Does any of the following companies that use v's use a i6? Aston Martin Audi Bentley Ferrari Lamborgini Volkswagen Porsche Just to name a few. He'll even ford America rejected our great almighty i6.

Gee I wrong the i6 must be a better balanced engine. I will have to go let all the v8 top fuel,v8 Nascar, v8 supercar, v8 jet sprint, v8 etc. all know the v8 is a poor choice and they would be better using a ford i6 turbo because someone writes on the bible wikipedia that the i6 is on the top of the list for best balanced engines. Maybe if the ford i6 did have a shorter stroke I may believe wikipedia. Also for the ford i6 to be a better balanced engine it would need to shorten the stroke to same if not less than the coyote and improve the crank balance it has as well as it ridgity for being so long. The downside would be looking at less capacity around 2j size and loss of all that wonderful torque it makes and unless it also received a steel crank the 2j would be a better choice.

So what's the price difference approx 5-6 GT to f6 and less for than that for a GS. If happy not to tune for big power and keep standard get cheaper car go f6, on the street there will be nothing in the performance except illegally down a highway or climbing a mountain road. Other than that on a race track would be the only legal spot the coyote will beat the F6. The fpv range is so close in performance that any could win a race pending which driver is the better and doesn't make any mistakes. Eg grandma driving the GT and Courtney the f6. If I had the money to spend I would choose the GT even if it actually was the slower car and is 5k dearer because of it's engine design and quality. If you havnt seen kpm's thread on their GT tune package you need go have a read. (have tissues ready all who think and believe the i6 is king). They are still testing and so far have well over 400rwkw with no boost increase tune only out of it. Also they are putting a 3 year warranty on it as well. This power and reliability can not be achieved by a standard boost tune only i6. Prove me wrong. As I said before the coyote is a strong base to build power on. Steel crank Shorter better balanced crank Forged rods Engine block heads same expansion rate as made from same material Closer cylinder temps front to rear of engine due to shorter length, 2 less in length Fuel air ratios closer due to cylinder temps being closer 8 ignitions per crank revalution makes for smoother running Velocityxr6t The GT makes more torque 570 to f6 565 I have owned many ford 6 and 8's favoured the clevo for many years until the BA xr6t was released and I seen what people where getting out of them at same time keeping them fuel efficient and drivable. The power to Eco was not possible from the clevo so I sold my xy GT rep and went the turbo 6 path. I know when something has been out performed so I follow that path except I will never Buy a gm/gmh product though. I would stay with a earlier ford till ford make a better product. At this point of time I want a GT as it is the best ford to buy. It is also very well priced to it's rivals. Mine you if ford release the next model with intercooling and other stronger driveline upgrades then this current GT will be beat. Always wanted a genuine GT but only if it really out performed the current ford range as well as past examples as this new coyote does not like the sticker & body kitted BA-FG gt's Seriously if you can afford 66k why would you not spent a extra 5-6k for a better product.

Cranny don't take things out of context. I never said it is a piece of crap. Far from it. It is just not the quality of what the Coyote has on offer. Never could possible compare it to Gemini.

Winstor, how could a inline 6 be smoother than a shorter better balanced More square engine. Our i6 would have one of the longest cranks which is not well balanced As it's not safe spinning over 6500rpm due to it's torsional twists and Poor counter weight design not to mention it is just cast iron. In comparisment the shorter in length and stroke steel coyote crank has the Advantage in all those departments. Also the less degrees of crankshaft revolution between combustion Cycles will also help in smoother running. There is one way to find a answer on the reliability is to see if anyone can Get testing info from ford. I have heard of testing from Ford before on the wot tests where An engine is run till it stops. If someone could find out the duration of each i6 and coyote it might Just confirm how much more stronger and reliable the forged Coyote bottom end Is compared to the cast I6. Also nobody has mentioned the fact of engine block material how It will have less head gasket sealing problems as head to block is same Material and again shorter lengths less expansion differences. As with cast iron block to alloy head. Another advantage is that each cylinder will run at a closer temp As the i6 being longer means the rear cylinders run hotter than a compact V8 as the coolant has passed 5 cylinders before it gets to cool number 6 V8 each end cylinder only sees 3 cylinders each before coolant reaches rear cylinders. This means less fuel compensation for correct afr's and another Advantage in being able to run smoother than a i6 as more balanced Temp front to rear. This again goes for the cylinder head. A easy way to feel the advantage of a engine smoothness to cylinder Count would be to compare a lawn mower to a Harley then the Harley With a say r1. See the picture, more cylinders the smoother a engine Will run. The i6 is great but the v8 is the ultimate. Fastest combustion engines in the world are v8 top fuel. Not single cylinder, i2, v2, i3, i4, v4, i5, i6, v6, v10, v12 etc

What's been happening Ben. Didnt that time last time we run you where already making over 400rwkw. I have finally started to piece my engine together. Been doing it real tough. Should have it going over the next month as long as no other hold ups.

Sounds sweet just cruising the track in that clip. Could you imagine it wringing every bit out of it coming out of corners in a slow drift Yanking on the wheel hard on the brakes and doing it all over again for the next corner.

Everytime I heard the coyote I have thoughts of trading everything I have including wife kids and kidney. So I can get one. It's not fair I want one.

Also cranny when you tested the GT did you push it beyond 120k as that's around where the difference starts with it's acceleration advantage. Up to approx that point it is a near even run. Testing and comparing 2 cars on the street won't give a real feel unless you push them well past the posted speed limits. The cars run near identical drive line are both torque limited in tune and built to accellerate safe enough for little old granny to drive. We all know the potential of a tune that softens the amount of torque reduction as well it's affects. If you are seriously deciding on what to shell out for you need to pick what is going to suit your future plans. If you are going to up the tune the GT is the pick as it should be the stronger engine. If you want a quick non tuned up car that is cheaper on rego and maybe running costs pick the F6. If you want a car that you can drive at 10/10ths lap after lap on a track day pick the GT. If you want a quite sounding car that doesn't attract attention pick the F6. If you want a sweet sounding high revving car pick the GT. Havnt taken much notice but what sort of 1/4 times can a standard f6 with tune only do. Can they better the already run GS of XFT and the GT in that you tube video 1/4 times. One other good thing is that the manual should not hurt as much with 1/4 times as the supercharger won't drop off boost at each gear change as much as the I6 do with turbos. Cornering control should be a lot better as well with the linear power delivery.

Mine has by memory a .96 rear and with running 4" dump into cat with 3.5 out also running taz manifold, plazmaman plenum, HDI GT series ic and nizpro valve springs. T56 with 345 diff I'm was making boost from approx 1100rpm with 12psi before 2300 governed by progate 50 with 8psi spring using 6th gear to evaluate boost. So much more responsive than factory set up and efficiency so much better. Highway cruise I was getting 8.8L to 100k's. Compared with 11.7L oem. Disadvantage is in wet conditions car is useless in trying to get power down. Struggles in dry first 2-3 gears pending road surface and throttle percentage. That's with 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's. Pitty my number 6 rod didn't agree with the extra power. Suggest solid bottom end for TO4z set up.

Loose turbo nuts Don't know if anyone has yet suggested this as I have not read this tread through. Why not just use bolts instead. Drill hole through head perpendicular to shank and use lock wire to keep them Tight. You just need to wire them correctly for it to work, bit hard to explain without a diagram So if anyone really wants to know how to, pm me a email address and I will email you a diagram. Another option is to multi drill the nut and stud and use a cotter pin. As per old ball joints and stub axle nut retaining etc. Both of these are cheap options with the 1st bolt setup being the easiest and the 2nd needing to be precisely so holes align for pin.

It doesn't need to be proven. Ford would not spend millions on something that is not Better than previous. True race or performance engines run steel cranks not cast. Why do you think the 2j has a name for itself. It's not because it's known fir breaking cranks or rods but for it's reliable high power output. the coyote has a higher redline from factory because it's safe to rev due to it's better designed & quality bottom end. Yes it's new and we don't know it's weakness and it's limit but on paper and what's already been tried with it, it looks to be a great step forward over the i6. I'm in no way saying the i6 is a bad thing, it is fantasic and deserves all it's credit and more for what it is. It's just the coyote has it's measure and more. Cranny as for proven track records and quantity of parts available the i6 has nothing on the old 5.0l. It has race records all over the world, you can purchase parts for it from many countries, it's cheaper to build than a i6. The i6 may never live up to it's statue but for what it is it is a great motor. The Coyote looks to have the advanced tech of the i6 plus. It should go on to great things, it's aftermarket parts inventory will eclipse the i6, it's aftermarket development will also as it will be used for motorsport world wide. It will be backed by the biggest and greatest performance companies throughout America and other international countries. You really need to get off the rocking horse and start looking at the potential the coyote has. As for crappy magazines and reviews, I think they rate better than Jo bob. The ute has lost for some time now to the crumy mostly due to it's out dated rear suspension. Maybe Ford will realize this this time around and do something about it. I have not even bothered to read or purchase the wheels/motor ute review magazine as I already along with many others would know it would lose on over all points. I did however pick it up flick to the verdic table so I could confirm my thoughts and for the miracle of hope that at least either the F6 or GT could prevail. Dam again they both went down.

Adrian f6 I think most will agree plastic rods. Yes some less than most have achieved them to make big power. All the oem internal i6 that are making big power are on a timer. The ones that last longer than some are usually the Sunday drives Or the ones miss daisy putts around in till the next dyno day. The oem i6 is not a very strong bottom end. The Coyote is strong. Even mine broke a rod which may have been due to small cast air pocket right in centre Of beam just above big end. Problem cast not forged.