01txr
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Everything posted by 01txr
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Im thinking of the Crow Stage 3 camshafts for my BA xr6t sedan t56 manual. Ive brought a Crow cam in the past for a 4.1L crossflow quite some years ago, the cortina it went into went very well, but I was not overly impressed with the cam when installing it as the cams casting dags were fowling on the rod bolts and required removal of cam to grind the casting down. I expected a better quality finish, maybe I was unlucky and Crow had missed the clean up process on the dags. How have you guys found the quality of the Crow barra cams? Being billet cams I'd be expecting them to be a good quality product. Also, from the specs I believe they are a good option for my setup. Application street use with fun circuit days and odd drags. Only spinning it to 6500rpm (factory crank) Built engine. G35-1050 Garrett turbo Lots of headwork including large ferrea valves. All the goodies to push the g35-1050 to its max. What do you reckon, the Crow stage 3 cams a good option or do you believe theres a better option?
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Ive just recieved my vclamp 6boost maniflod to suit my new g35-1050. In comparing it to my TO4z split T4 manifold (Taz?, purchased from Hi Torque some years ago), the 6boost has 42mm od tube and the Taz has 48mm od tube. The head flange on the 6boost tapers down smaller to suit tube ID, wear as the taz manifold is consistant size. Also without looking, Im sure I opened the exhaust ports up a little and this may make the reduction worst once I match port the flange. Im Thinking the big tube would be better for hp. Whats everyones thoughts? Are the small tubes better for air speed hence quicker spool response? Will the small tube restrict top end hp? Is anyone running a g35-1050 6boost combo? How have you found it?
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I was thinking of the Bosch 1600 from Goleby's. If your only at 60% duty cycle at that power on 2200cc then theres no way I would require the 2400cc deka's. Have no idea why the efi shop would recommend the deka 2400's. Also considering he said they will be $350 each when they get stock. I liked how great my Deka 660cc worked on my last setup, could idle engine down to a silk smooth 400rpm (set it at 600), could hardly tell it was running. So it would be great to have a injector that will idle nicely but support its setup power potential.
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Hi all. Had a injector shop suggest for me to run Siemens DEKA Fuel Injector "2400cc" FI114212. My plans are for street with randon circuit fun and occassional drags. Focus is more on street response and efficiency then drag. (Its t56 manual so will never be great on strip). Concern is how well these Siemen Deka 2400's idle and light throttle perform. Haltech plug and play ecu. G35-1050 Garrett turbo 6boost manifold Plazmaman billet race plenum Plazmaman pro series intercooler Head smoothed ports and large ferrea valves Crow cams stage 3 cams. Crow valve springs. Crow lifters. Arp studs Ross Forged pistons Argo Rods Ross Metal Jacket Balancer Atomic girdle Atomic billet pump gears Billet oil pump backing plate Timing Chain undecided atm Process West billet twin pump surge tank Etc, etc Goal, ultimate street and circuit efficiency. Possible may run e85 at a later point. Will I even need such a high flowing injector? Feedback on injector selection. Feedback on Haltech ecu controlling the injectors. Feedback on e85 and using flex with the haltech. All feedback will be greatly appreciated.
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Was thinking the kpm intank. Ok, will pm him.
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Whats the problem with the twin internal billet surge tank by process west? The twin 460 walbro pumps should flow plenty. Is it volume? Found a post by jet, its 223 pages. Couldnt locate option to go to page 1, and dont want to click back through 222 pages lol. I'll go back and see if I can find a quick option. Could let me know what you have heard. Only thing I think could be a issue is volume, maybe aeration?
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What would be great is if I could bolt the g35-1050 straight in place of the to4z. But, ill just off load my complete to4z setup to recoup some of my out lay. Wife is not happy, even after Im telling her I have all the orher bits to sell to recoup some of the out lay. Have new aeroflow twin pump with teflon braided lines and fittings for rear mount custom setup. But talked wife into letting me get the process west twin internal pump billet setup. So not in good books atm. Cant holiday anywhere atm anyway with all this covid bs restrictions anyway. Seeing so much good gear available now, so tempted on adding to build. Eg. Roller rockers, complete billet oil pump etc. Have pro drag mags, 20x10, 20x8.5 and 17x8.5. Continental on the 20's for street, will be fun not trying to wear them out too quick. Havnt decided on the rear 17x8.5 for drag yet. Will get other rims and tyres for circuit fun.
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Yeah genuine, after reading info on its build specs and the dollars spent on my engine, I've decided to go the g35-1050. Mainly as I've found one 1.01 and .83 at a good price. Just need to try work out which one, 1.01 or .83. Tending towards the 1.01. Be really good if I could find out a comparison between to4z 1.06 vs G35-1050. 83 and 1.01. Then there's the 1.21 will it be too laggy. Think I'll try the 1.01 and see how it performs then decide to go up or down. Also my to4z is t4 split. Is the vband flange better or not as good? Theres no T4 option for the G35-1050. And awd would be great in the falcon on street, mmmm. But more weight and Id be worried about its strength on circuit use.
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Latest is I am possible off loading the 7075, and going the g35-1000, not sure to go the 1.01 or 1.21 rear. The to4z is off the top of my head a 1.06. Built boost from 1100rpm in top gear, 12psi by 1500rpm. Don't mind losing a bit of low down response. Eg. Build boost from 1500rpm min to 2000rpm max with it making 20psi by 3000rpm. Debating to buy 1.21 giving it a go, if response is too late then buy a 1.01.
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Yes, looks the goods. Will really hurt the savings though.
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Heres the g35-1050 Suited for 2.0L to 5.5L. It too is only vband and t3. Might go this in vband with the 1.21 A/R. Sell off my TO4z setup. https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-g35-1050/
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Tom, looked at the g35 and no T4 flange. Just T3 and vband. Looks like next step is a g42, nothing between.
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Im in agreement that they will defiantly increase peak power. Smoother ports should promote quicker cylinder filling, though increased port volume will slow port speed, (more critical in N/A). Larger intercooler also slower air speed. Short straight runner plenum, not sure. Maybe I'm better off finishing build, run the to4z and see if Im happy. That G35-900 sounds good, but omg it is pricey. Maybe even next size up. Will keep researching. Thanks Searched the G35-900, says its for 2.0L to 3.5L engines. Great power rating. You would surely be controlling boost down low in first 3 gears on street rubber. What are you revving yours too and does it hold boost to your rev limit?
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Yeah like I was extremely happy with it. Was very responsive. Downside was I also struggled with traction first 3 gears. Running 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's. Tune at 12psi was driveable through throttle control. On 17psi tune there was fine line between no boost and wheelspin. So thinking as I said with the headwork, bigger intercooler, plenum etc. That response will be even better which will make traction worst. Hence thinking to try keep the response no better than it was or a little later just so it gives car the chance to start moving before boost comes on. From what I've read on my Haltech ecu, boost control is well covered, so will be able to control traction. Feel something similar to a t51r might be my best option. Be good to hear feedback on this 7075 first. Can it work as I want or will it be too laggy? Whats a good option up from a to4z?
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Back when I was running the to4z, a friend had a bf f6, that ran gt45 with gt47 internals. Made 600rwhp at think was 22psi on pump fuel tune. 780rwhp on race fuel think was 28psi. Mucking around on the street from 60kph, I put over a car length on him and held it till x speed. His would not make boost under 3500rpm. Hence I'd get out front straight up. He was always complaining about how other cars would do the same and once he got going it was all over. This is what Im fearing with this 7075. Don't want to sacrifice the low end so much, if it will start making boost by 2000rpm at be on song before 3000rpm I could live with it, do not want to rev it past 6500rpm with factory crank. Wasn't expecting the 7075 to being so much bigger than the to4z until I got home with it and compared it. Was a great price so I jumped on it, before researching it throughly. I also need to sit manifold on head and sit turbo on to make sure it clears head and rocker cover. May need to sell my to4z setup and get new manifold and dump made. Just need to hear from others of how this turbo responds so I can decide to keep or resell it. The to4z will limit max hp, with the porting, big valves, pro series plazmaman intercooler and plazmaman plenum. Im certain it will be even more response allowing me to utilize a larger turbo. My plans back when I started the build was to go T51R, but seems theres been numerous improvements in turbos since and theres better options. Feel free to recomment options of turbo choice. Keep in mind its not a drag car. Its a 6sp manual. Its street and fun circuit use I'm after. With some drag runs time to time. Not wanting a sh*tbox LS beating me because of lag or no traction when boost arrives.
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Thanks Keith. Gets disheartening being on here and not being able to finish the new build. Hoping I can get back into finishing it. Ive have thought numerous times of putting it in a shop to finish, but I can't bring myself to trust shops. Being in the industry in my younger years, brings me to lack of trust. Also, if something goes wrong I prefer its by my mistake not a shop where I have a sh*t fight to get it sorted. I build it, it breaks, I learn and fix the issue. I take it this website is not as popular now adays since no more Barras are being sold. So bs what these bureaucrats and big corporations do to us. It did go well, until number 6 rod didn't want to play no more. Lol Ive been on a extreme slow build, too busy to get into it, too many toys and no room atm to try finish it. New engine. Extensive porting Large Ferrea Valves Crow springs Crow stage 3 cams (still have to purchase) Crow lifters Undecided on timing chain kit Ross Forged Pistons Argo Rods with ARP2000 bolts ARP main and head studs ACL bearings Atomic oil pump gears Billet oil pump backing plate. Atomic main girdle. Have not decided on new injectors as yet. Also have the plug and play Haltech ecu now, can't wait to play with it. Was tuning using sct with racer pro tuning software. So much more options with the Haltech. Not sure if I get to finish it soon though, as very time deprived and got to try sort room out in my garage. Just get a little motivated everytime I get a new piece.
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Ive scored a brand new Aeroflow 7075. 8005-4004 T4 with1.15 rear My concern is its best rpm range and lag. Car was previously stock engine with nizpro springs, high mount with to4z t4 1.06, 4" dump with 2" wastegate pipe through 50mm wastegate, hdi 600x300x75 cooler, 3.5" xforce exhaust, plazmaman top plenum, seimen daka 660cc injectors. T56 manual sedan. Would start building boost at 1100rpm in top gear. 12psi by 1500rpm. No lag issues. Was running it to 6300rpm New built engine, lots of porting with large ferrea valves. New pro series plazmaman intercooler. New complete plazmaman plenum intake. Possibly will go to stage 3 crow cams also. Car is street car, would like to do some weekend street circuit fun. Not wanting to rev it harder than 6500rpm due to factory crank. Is this turbo too big for my application, will it be laggy down low in the rpm range? Feedback appreciated.
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Sorry hadn't updated earlier. Yes no more issues. So appears it was all because of the switch.
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Update, still waiting on the switch to arrive. Purchased from Ford dealer on ebay. Was suppose to be here by the 4th. Its played up a few times since the last time on here. Unplug, tap it on the door sill and all good again. So quite certain its the problem. @Jeturbo, no its not tuned its complete factory original.
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Don't worry, found what it was. I suspected it might be the brake switch as it was having start issues as well and I also noticed it was speeding up on down hill decents whilst on cruise. I had wife check brake lights and nothing. I then had problems where it would not start, depressed brake pedal numerous times, jabbed the brake hard a few times, locked and unlocked car by remote, pulled handbrake on and off, shifted the gearshift through all selections all numerous times. Still nothing. Pulled brake switch out, tried manually to operate switch whilst trying to start. Still nothing. Put switch back in. Tried a few more times. Sat for a few minutes pissed off thinking how much a tow was going to cost. Tried it again, on about tenth turn of key it cranked. Got home, turned it off, tried to start again, nothing. In the morning I removed the switch, looked it to try to disassemble it but you'd have to near destroy it to do so. I then smacked on door kick panel a few times. Put back in, and not one issue today at all. I'd already order a new genuine ford switch on ebay on friday $28. Arrives by the 4th of May. I'll keep it in glovebox for if this one plays up again. Hope this helps anyone else who has this issue.
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I have a 2008 FG XR6 sedan 6spd auto. 178000k's Keep getting dash warning popping up when im moderating the brakes eg light tap followed by another straight away sets it off. I've used a dignostic tool and it says no fault history or current? Everything seems to work as if nothing is wrong. Just keep getting the annoying warnings. Any ideas where to start finding issue or known problems please let me know.
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I've noticed this on a BA and BF. Its like as if the rear calipers are sticking and dragging. A quick jab or 2 on the brakes and it releases. Been told it is the booster to master cylinder rods are too long in adjustment. I did back the BF one off and it seemed to stop it.
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Sorry for the delay on this, time has been a issue with some issues coming up. I decided to remove the engine bay fuse box to check it internally. On doing so when I remove the earth lead that goes down to chassis I found it to have shorting marks on the underside of the bolt washer head. I buffed bolt, chassis and terminal up, refitted, it starts fine, all fixed. Yah I take it that when I tested it's ohms resistance it showed it was fine was because it had earth even though it was a poor connection. It still baffles me to why it had it's problem, then was fine for a few days then not again. It's not as if the poor earth could of improved then died. Oh well it's sorted and thanks for everyone's input. I've learnt now that if I ever get a issue like this to just remove and check every earth connection thoroughly instead of believing equipment and external visual appearance. Cheers
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So what's the go, who's telling fibs. Wheels mag publish the GT-F having 348rwkw but then post a video only claiming 311rwkw And every other gts 430 I've heard have gone 315rwkw or less, so why is it that they say it's got 339rwkw. Wouldn't be a special tune promo version like they have provided numerous other times with its predecessors. I recall a meet we where at willowbank, brothers standard FG xr6t auto went 13.1, there was a e3 gts and it ran consistent mid 14's Bet they where very disappointed. Oh well, we have the last laughs when the truths are revielled, downside is these bogan Expensive Daewoo drivers believe the bs they are fed. It's lion hunting season.
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I've removed it and there is no damage. Just going to have to test every circuit that has been affected. Just hope I can locate it considering its fine at present.
