BailZ

Hi all, For some reason the back end of my 03 BA ute has recently dropped very low and I can feel that it has sagged - is there any reason/explanation for this? What would be my options? Note - Previous owner had the springs reset I believe; however, the rear leaf springs just dont look like they used to?

Yeah mate, 100% certain. That was purchased in late 2010 from Plazmaman so if they've brought out a new model maybe? Or is it on an FG?

Finally got around to Thanks mate! Glad I could provide humour...but seriously I don't think I can find it now.. On a brighter note I got around to bleeding the Clutch and Brake lines, but am a little perplexed at the manuals description of using an air vac to clear the powersteering whilst cranking..

Hmm lets see...I spent 12 hours out on the ute today, and I achieved what feels like on paper, SFA. So I will put in the last two days work I have done getting it back on the road: 1. New Shocks - GT Monroe's, difficult task with your classic early 1900's spring compressors. 2. New Drivers side rear Brake caliper. 3. Dropped the oil and replaced with Nulon 10w 40 full synthetic. 4. Changed oil filter, duh. 5. Whilst doing this ^^ I also removed the old turbo oil feed line, and replaced it with a nice new steel braided line and inline Earls filter. 6. Tightened Handbrake and adjusted handbrake inside rotors. 7. Replaced leaking turbo Oil return line (Bottom of Turbo to Sump). NOTE - if anyone is looking for my old return line, its somewhere about 100 - 300m away in some bush where I effing LAUNCHED it whilst taking a short temper relief break from trying to locate the top bolts into the turbo with gasket sealer going everywhere, spanners dropping into my face and oil dripping in my eyes. Guaranteed worst job on the car yet, which included bleeding the clutch line. 8. (Lovely segway you say?) Installed new Clutch line from Fluid reservoir to the back of the pedal Box (Oh god, the hose clamps on this are not possible to get at without removing your pedal box; LUCKILY! 9. Removed pedal box! Installed new accelerator which will hopefully turn off the pesky Engine Light that's been troubling me for some time (even Ford didn't know what was causing it!) 10. Replaced Power Steering line - This was another relatively frustrating task; however, once I removed everything in my way (Turbo air intake, Coolant system piping etc) it seemed to go on ok with a bit of firm persuasion. 11. Replaced serpentine drive belt. That should cover it! The last two days have been pretty productive! Now just to bleed all of the lines to make sure they are good to go and the Bogan Chariot is back to roadworthy!

This will give people a good rough guide for DIY Turbo oil line/Filter kit install...Because who cares about the factory screen when you have a nice big Earls filter stopping all the awesome metal chunks from spinning through your compressor wheel!

N ah they cut thru and jutted them out a bit further, with some sort of hard plastic ring, which is heatproof

A few pics, won't let me upload decent footage...see how the Mov attachment goes Spool Up.mov

True, thanks for the advice - I'm not sure - its an Eboost 2 gauge and I can check it to tell me the Peak hold boost when I've been driving, and I'm pretty sure its only in 2nd gear. Its running a little lower power than it could, as I haven't put in rods and pistons yet, and anything over 320rwkw is playing with fire. She sounds pretty good idling, with the cam lumpy enough to make the entire thing shake side to side. I'll upload some pics/sound soon if possible.

My Bogan chariot - have had it a while but just got around to it... Plazmaman Plenum, 1800hp Cooler 80lb injectors valve springs turbo flap mod Process west battery, cold air and fuel surge kit Cam upgrade Side exit-exhaust 1800hp Clutch 6sp Mal Wood Box Runs 321rwkw, just over 800NM Torque, spikes boost to 22PSI.

Yeh cheers - It ended up being a bad earth - the screw rattled loose and that caused (somehow?) the radiator to malfunction.

Hi guys, Haven't had much trouble with my car recently, and gave it a bit of a hard drive up the coast on a hot day - the radiator fluid boiled out of my new o'flow tank and now my headlights have gone, the high beams light is on, the indicator lights are lit (dimly) and the ABS light is on? I am guessing its a fuse, but I have no idea where to start?

Also, If you are running extra boost/fuel try checking the gaps on the plugs. Should be around 0.8-0.75mm.

I agree with Gregor, BA-BF's aren't expensive to purchase mods for, however the cost build up with the sheer amount of mods required, and the need to purchase one mod, so another can function to its max potential etc...in the end, it comes down to the "no weak links in the chain" theory.. 1 weak link may end up meaning BOOM - $5000 on top of your mods, and that's just to repair a gearbox or drive-train.

Possibly overboost? Any recent mods?

pretty sure a BA-BF Manual on CD can be found on EBAY for like $10?

Intriguing...However long winded...

I would also like to know.

Yeh mate if you've got the EV1 "green top" Bosch 40lb injectors you'd still be able to start it; however, with the newer 40-60 lb injectors it will run sh*tttt...it will struggle to get manifold fuel pressure on startup (Possibly) and then when it idles it will sound like sh*t. Probably would run the risk of it detonating as well if youre running a different boost controller with premo boost...

Just wondering if anyone can answer me a few questions: 1. Have SCT released this Product yet? 2. I assume that the Livewire box is able to upload and edit tunes by itself (No extra accessories required) 3. Is there any known issues with this product (as in issues with Falcons in general)? 4. How do I order one? I've been all through the site and cant seem to find an "order here" or anything?

ah well its fixed now, cost $300, and it was just a matter of replacing a rubber piece between a join.

I'd possibly be keen but just wondering ive got bosch green top injectors which im wondering what lbs they put out?? Also is there any massive tuning changes Ill have to look at or is it pretty straight forward??

I've had my 2003 BA XR6T ute (310Rwkw with various mods)for over a year now (in which it has racked around 15,000 km's) but the only real problem I am having is the tailshaft, as It has a 6 puk brass button clutch and Malwood 6spd manual in it. I think the fact it has the brass button kind of sends all the stress down to the weakest point - which happens to be a rubber piece in the tailshaft which is pretty much split into pieces, costing around $3500 for a ford replacement. Apart from that the power is fine, and I believe it had been running that kind of power for a while.

No, the only weird noise it had was a gearbox bearing, which, funnily enough I think is a malwood.

I've been shown a picture of the tail shaft assembly, and by memory its part of the rear-half of the shaft, rubber, which I think may be at the diff end. I have the ute sitting at home, as I am at work for the next 6 months or else I could explain it better with pictures.