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Bought a house settlement date was 27th June... $$ but absolutely worth at as I'm loving being able to change whatever I want in this house and have more pets than just 1, amongst heaps of other benefits... only real downside is the sizeable debt/mortgage, but without kids I should be able to pay it off reasonably quickly. The photos from the real-estate listing... none of the furniture remained except the tv in the alfresco area, the security camera system and the "key" thingo on the wall in the kitchen... haha Outside the house... The front (a photo I took actually to see the real estate sign out the front): Trees are much bigger than this now in the backyard haha A nice entertaining area. As can be seen by these two photos, the whole area was filthy well before we bought the place. (as per the discussion over here -> https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/81090-cool-stuff-you-just-bought/?do=findComment&comment=1723568) And the sizeable garage definitely one of the main reasons I was happy to purchase it... it has a nice high roof too that might even fit a hoist 😜: Inside the house... The secondary bathroom: The bedroom in the back-left corner: The master bedroom (there's an ensuite and walk-in-robe to the left here, not pictured): The dining area and on the side the doorway to the back-right bedroom is visible: The dining area looking toward the front door. The kitchen storage space for days. The missus is happy with that The lounge room: The floorplan: To say I'm happy with the purchase is a massive understatement. I'll probably update this thread with other stuff I've done over the ~3 months I've lived here In creating this post, I noticed I've hardly taken any photos showing how we've set everything up 😮 No big deal, plenty of time for that sort of thing later.

Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Thanks, if it wasn't this car it would be another and if it was 200 years ago I would be feeding steroids to my horse and putting wider wheels on my wagon.

There's most of a bottom end. Still gotta clean up the sump surface and torque the mains but the hard part is done.

I managed to trim the video, here it is. It doesn't look like much but the cuts were pretty violent. The last part I lifted and floored it again but the first part was wot. https://I.imgur.com/nRuSCZ0.mp4

Not an overly exciting day but I got some stuff done. Swapped the drivers seat into the other car, fitted the 2009 headlights and front end onto the 2006 TT, fitted the turbine housing onto the 6boost manifold, frigged around doing some turbo fixing then fitted that into the turbine housing. Ordered a headgasket, ordered a new oil fitting/restrictor, my other parts got posted today and I think that's about it. I reckon I'll swap the ICC over too cos the newer one is slightly better. That reminds me, the TT is set up for FG coils so I have to remember to put that rocker cover on when it goes back together...so I'd better paint it so it looks a bit less sh*t than primer Here's a pic of the hotside, the front end and the seat and console back together, cos we all like a pic or two

Other things are coming to a close and quite successfully, farken hooray. Onto the cars, I have ordered and bought things for future shenanigans. I'm going to swap the engine and trans from my na territory into my genuine turbo territory. The engine has a host of upgrades and it's much more durable than a stock turbo engine, while the trans is the built turbo trans. This body swap will give me factory boost control, along with quite a few other benefits. Better brakes, better exterior and interior condition, thicker driveshafts and a full suite of PCMTec credits with antilag and flex fuel are just a few of these benefits. The parts that are here, or in the post, are to facilitate a slight modification that I've always wanted to carry out. The current turbo is a genuine Garrett gen 2 GTX3582r supercore, it is housed in a factory T3 internal gate Ford turbine housing, with a flapper upgrade. It's making about 16psi on 98 right now, and probably makes about 330awkw through the stock TT exhaust system, albiet with a high flow cat and debung carried out. I have a T4 split pulse 0.85 external gate turbine housing that fits the GT and GTX 35 frame series of turbos. This is to be combined with a split pulse T4 6boost manifold, that will have boost controlled by a 50mm Turbosmart external wastegate and a 4 port Mac valve. It should provide a nice wide boost range, perhaps 7psi up to 30psi. I have a 3 to 4 inch adapter to connect my custom built 4 inch turbo back exhaust to the turbo, as it only has a 3 inch vband outlet. Another minor modification is a new fuel pot, it will house a single 525 fuel pump that has a dedicated power feed, with option to add another pump when required. I think that is about the extent of this round of work, it'll still be on 98 but I will be able to make a bit more power with the upgraded hot side. I have a bit of an oil leak at the sump, so I have talked the missus into taking a couple of days off so I can smash this out. This is the primary motivator for all of this work, we all know how oil leaks are treated around here!!! I am particularly curious as to how the turbo will respond, I am hopeful it will spool quicker, yet have less back pressure to allow more timing, less heat and have more potential for higher octane options in the future. That's all I got for now homies, here's a pic of the different housings side by side. The T4 is just slightly bigger, but being split pulse should spool like a mofo!

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Hey guys, I've bought a dyno and this is a quick post to get the thread started. First up the title can be changed, I'm not sure how to pick a winner, but lets come up with some titles and one will be chosen. Next up, I'll do a proper write up with pictures etc when I get around to it, mebbe an admin type person can update this post when I get it ready. So yerp that's about it for now, should be some fun times ahead

Washed it... And washed @Puffwagon's car. It was a team effort to wash both, of course... bloody hot day to be doing it, but the result was worth it, after the car was covered in all sorts of road-trip-grime and Puff's a bit covered in crap after he decided to show Kelli and I the sights around his town, down a dirt road! haha. Good to spend some time up here in Adelaide Cheers for the hospitality to myself, Kelli and our two dogs , Puffster & Family... Puff also lended some mechanical help haha... had neglected my car a bit in lieu of the house purchase/after-purchase-work and found a few issues Dump pipe was only held on by one nut! and there was 2 studs missing of the 5, the 4th one pictured is one spare that Puff had haha Puff found some bolts with the same thread, which were too long, so out comes the angle grinder and the bench grinder to cut them to the right length and then to clean up the cuts haha... now the dump pipe is nicely tight and hopefully won't come loose again so easily... oops... Funnily enough, most of my exhaust manifold and turbo-to-manifold bolts/nuts were loose, too... torque'd 'em all up, as well. Fiddly bastard to get a spanner on some of those, as anybody who's had a go at those can attest And to top it all off, found a loose bolt for the exhaust housing of the turbo; luckily it was the one where the oil drain is otherwise this probably would have backed itself out all of the way and be on the road somewhere... All this "loose" stuff, was probably caused by this damage to the impeller blades Amazing that the turbo is still holding together and making reasonable boost amongst all of those vibrations it'd probably be causing with that sort of damage... still no shaft play and the blades aren't touching the side of the housing, either, so... got some time before the turbo will need some work haha Also had only the front-passenger-side down to metal-on-metal; another oops... not so bad on the front-driver-side, interestingly... new pads and discs today are on the agenda.

LOL I did the same - now it's dirty frying pans and a smoke filled house every morning. I just want 5 mins to make some oats and a coffee, but the kitchen is like Macca's on pay day.

Any farken way, I did car work on the territory and it's sorted now. Running 45psi on E42, boost cut at 50psi, 17 degrees of timing, no knock, 95% injdc, iat's climbing quicker than a monkey up a light pole. Makes the plaz front mount look like a stock top mount. It pulls pretty flamin hard, obviously making somewhere over 750kw. Farken other car can wait until I can be stuffed fixing it. The end.

Here's a pic of the stuffed head gasket, farken farkers farked! This gasket was a cheap one, suitable for maybe 15 to 20psi tops. Even a high quality MLS will only hold 30psi or so, only decent options for the barra are Athena split ring gasket or copper fire ring gasket. Might be worth looking to 14mm head studs in future as well.

Hey Keifff long time no post… thought I’d give an update… Ate lots of food… lifted heavy stuff… Spent 17 weeks in prep eating f*k all and still lifting heavy stuff… got decently lean… now going back to eating lots and lifting heavy stuff again… the end 🤣

Here's a bunch of PDFs related to the zf series of transmissions, mostly 6 speed variants. They range from simple connector seal installs right down to complete rebuild procedures, including the adaptation procedure after a trans reset. ZF.Trans.Mechtronics.pdf ZF_Adaptation procedure.pdf ZF6-GEN2-ZIP.pdf ZF_Workbook-transmission-6-8HP.pdf

Alright, so tonight I got the gearbox out. Was a pretty good feeling as I've never removed a transmission out of a car before. I had some questions though. Took some pictures but just need confirmation on some things. Upon inspecting my rear transmission mount I think it is gone? Initially I thought it slots in but the rubber has torn off from what I can see. Is my thinking correct? I'm using this as my comparison as well (https://www.repco.com.au/parts-service/car-engine-parts/engine-mounts/kelpro-engine-mount-mt7020/p/A9393840?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&region_id=100009&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo8S3BhDeARIsAFRmkOO2hd1jqrjLXqr8lphoJ2k-d5stwjJoImH1Xcq77u4AaFAizBBcS8kaAn_7EALw_wcB) My Mount NEXT QUESTION. How do I get this clip off? Do I need a special tool or can I do this using normal tools. SEE PICTURE FINALLY IT'S OUT! Thanks Everyone.

No I haven't bought a battery yet, I forgot. I will get one this week though, so it will be sorted when it gets rebuilt. The rings, bearing and rod bolts arrived today, if I wasn't slack I would have the pistons ready but I've been sore from lifting weights and sitting on the toilet is a struggle lol. I'll get the pistons done tomorrow, then get a start on yanking the engine out. For anyone who is interested, the current piston to bore clearance is 5.5 thou, which is fine if you wanna go apesh*t with the boost. Being that I'm gonna coat them and not go apesh*t, any extra clearance will be taken up by the coating. I'm gonna run this in a bit more gentle than usual to let the coating survive the run in process. Usually I would give the rings 20 minutes to half an hour to seal up, which is all it takes, then go full send. The rings will still get the half an hour of run in, but I'll give it a week or two before cranking it up. Anyhow there is that, here's a pic of a clean piston vs a dirty one, they're all clean now so just gotta give them a wash and dry, then get to coating. They have been blasted with glass bead to give them a profile for the coating to stick to.

My wastegate line split today and made 32psi in the mid. Lucky I know a thing or two about tuning and there was ample protection there to save it. I reckon some dash 4 fittings are in order for the wastegate and Mac valve, this should prevent any further issue like this arising. On a side note, I think I'm going to add more water meth jets to the intake, cos the warmer weather is showing enough of a tune change to warrant further cooling. Also did a trans service today, the trans fan stopped working yesterday while I was towing the boat and the car went into limp mode for a hot trans. I sorted out the fan wiring, gave it a fresh batch of hectic trans oil and a fresh filter, iirc the filter comes from a ranger. Should give the old girl a wash, it's probably been 2 years since it had one

Raspberry flavoured methanol acquired, time to add some timing

Fixed the boost leak by welding a pipe onto the outlet of the turbo. Turned it back up to 24psi and it loved it. Farken thing hits boost like a mofo now, like a light switch lol. It also tolerates 12 degrees of timing at that boost level which is unheard of on 98, so that rear housing must be night and day better than the stock housing. Hmmm, I wonder what would happen if I pulled some timing for safety and asked it for 30psi? Coming to you in a future episode of Puffwagon's Territory Adventures

Hows this for some farkery? The car was trying to rev at idle and drive itself in gear and while I could get it mostly sorted by some quick changes to the idle airflow, there was no reason for those changes to be needed. First thought was an intake leak but I know there wasn't one, so where else could it be getting air from? I measured the throttle body values in Forscan with another throttle body I have, and the one on the car was open half a degree more at idle. Not much ay, but I adjusted it back down to 7.5 degrees from 7.94 degrees and it fixed it. Lol less than half a degree is enough to send your throttle body out of whack and get an ETC light.

I run a bead in the sump where the seal goes and I run a bead on top of the seal. There is basically an unbroken bead around the whole sump. I also put a smear under the rear main cap and around the rear main seal. When I do the sump I let it dry for a couple of days before adding oil and running it. They will leak if you let them so I make sure I cover all bases.

Got nothing done yesterday and a little bit today. I sprained my wrist putting the trans in 500 times the other day, so called it short today. Got the trans all bolted up, front and rear driveshafts in, trans cooler mounted, wired and ready to go, and that's about it. I put the hotside in for a look and realized I have to clock the turbo to point downwards, so that can happen another day. I'll have to lift it in and out a number of times for that, as well as making the oil drain etc. My wrist is too sore to lift it once, nvm half a dozen times, so I'll rest up and get it done whenever. Fark the turbo looks small in there lol, it'd look cooler and be heaps easier to chuck in the 85mm beast I have, cos the exhaust already fits it as well as the cooler pipes. Not sure how the stock cast turbo pistons would like 30psi and 650+kw though?! Here's a pic just cos.

Yerp. I get the missus to help me or one of my sons. I can do it all myself but it makes it miles easier to get the trans in and out with two people. So yeah pretty much only get help with the trans/tcase. The missus will hang out with me while I'm doing it most of the time, unless she's got something else to do. It's nice to have someone to talk to lol. Progress now is the engine is assembled and in the TT. I'll get the trans in this afternoon and probably call it there. I still gotta take the other car off the jack stands, move it out the way and raise this one, so there is a bit of stuffing around to get it done.

Why I oughta

Got the engine and trans out of the car today, will get to resealing etc tomorrow. CBF writing much more rn.

Here's a quick pic, I'll upload more when it's set up

Car is running well, makes around 330awkw after a wind or two of the boost controller. Having a built trans in it transforms the car, it chirps second when you give it the beans. It's quite enjoyable at this power level, plenty fast for the street and fark knows what I was thinking building a car with double the power?! Apart from that nothing new. I'm gonna take a break from posting for a while, I've got other things that are taking up a large portion of my time and I need to focus on those areas. I'll be back when I'm ready to resume posting.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

Long time between drinks- Impala Engine and Trans Rebuild Hollery EFI conversion Disc Brakes all round New Floor New suspension all round Interior Refresh F6 New Semi Slicks all round Halteh Elite Pro Plug In Flex Fuel Engine oil and Fuel Pressure Engine protection Stock Oil and Boost Gaueges running off Haltech Staged Fuel Pumps (2x 460s) IC7 Dash A couple of speeding fines

Shed got approved, just waiting on some more stuff but it's got a green light. 8x15 metres, 3 roller doors and a personnel side entrance. Now I can keep some cars out of the sun, the paint is farked on my xr6 turbo and the turbo territory is getting hammered too. Will be able to move the dyno in there too so I have a bit more privacy and less noise for the neighbourhood. Set up a hoist so I can service my cars easily and the best part is it will be fully insulated to keep temps in check. Happy days

Thanks guys. This problem has been fixed. I ended up taking it back to my mechanic on a hot day and they were able to re-produce the issue. Ended up being the fuel pump. They connected a pressure sensor to it and you could see the gauge fluctuating quite a bit when the issue was occurring. One new fuel pump and it's all good. Today was a warm day in Melbourne and I was able to drive for an hour without issue!

Yeah crazy hey! 2 bed apartment is about $900-$1000 here atm… But it’s not uncommon to see houses in the $2-3k per week realm either Our place is a modest 3 bed 80s build… 2000s updated kitchen but everything else is original so not fancy… But it is on the water with our own dock/pontoon and I can see the city and coast from our pool… so it’s prime position that’s the $ I guess. But I was shocked when the neighbour sold (Same house without a new kitchen and a smaller pool basically) for $4.25 mil a couple months ago. 🤯 Normal income families just can’t afford that… I chose the area based on the schools… didn’t realise the neighbours all had lambos and g wagons though 🤣

So the transmission is all back in. This time, it went in very smooth once I got the transmission bolted on. The difficult part is getting it onto the jack. I saw a video of just using wooden blocks. Somehow on my first go, I actually did this, using many small wooden blocks stacked near each other to raise the trans. However it's a poor way of doing it. Had to figure out a better solution. I realised that I had little to no spread of force and tension across the bottom of the transmission with small blocks and my jack. So I made a wooden bracket at the back and front of the transmission using some M10 bolts from wood I had lying around the garage. It worked really well. One thing to note is you need to make the bracket at the back long enough that when you stick the transmission jack under, the supports aren't blocking the path of the jack to go under the trans pan. The photos may explain this a bit better. https://imgur.com/dGBzcyY To get the height I needed, I used some big pieces of thick wood. Originally they were going to be used as car raising blocks but they've come handy for many things. You can see the support at output shaft end. Just used two existing holes to bolt it up. Used the lower mounting holes on the bellhousing for the front piece as well. You get the idea. My original piece was too narrow and I made it longer by 15cm on each side. Front of car looking back https://imgur.com/undefined THEN JUST A MATTER OF GETTING IT HIGH ENOUGH AND THEN PUTTING A WOODEN BLOCK UNDER THE PAN TO JACK IT UP. ONCE THE TRANS IS SUPPORTED BY THE JACK, MOVE THE BLOCKS AWAY. You may need to have one hand around the trans to balance it a little occassionally but it should be good if you have at least most of the support covering the back 2/3 of the transmission. This time I used some threaded rod as a guide for the two M10 holes on each side of the bell housing to help line the transmission out. Once I had all the bolts in, I puts the transmission in and it slotted straight away. TIP WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER: As posted in this thread before by Puff, make sure the nose of the torque converter sits inside the bellhousing. I pushed the converter on and it clicked on what I thought was 3 times but it was twice as the nose was still outside. If this happens, continue spinning the transmission clockwise whilst putting some pressure as you push (doesn't have to be excessive). Eventually after 6 or 7 rotations it will just slot in again and move further back and be seated. You'll definitely know when this happens and the nose of the converter will be inside the bell housing

So rather than upgrade the dyno pc with something decent I'm merely upgrading the cpu from a core 2 E3400 to a core 2 Q9500. I'll even give it a a fresh 4gb of ddr2 800 to liven things up a bit. Haha very old tech but still a decent upgrade

They are an unavoidable part of life after 40. Each day I don't sh*t myself I count as a win

Ran up 695awkw then turned it up more and made 755awkw. The dyno freaked out from the vibration in the last run so the graph is a bit farked. It probably didn't make 755, 730 is more accurate. As expected it ran out of fuel system, but I was gifted a surge tank so I'll get that installed one day and go again. Ignore the boost, the sensor must've been having a moment. The runs were both around 40psi and 42psi respectively. Where the first graph falls over is it touching the rev limiter, it was still heading north lol

Siphoned out the 98 from the tank tonight, missus has got a full tank now and I'll be filling mine up with E85 tomorrow. Will refit my 4 port boost solenoid tomorrow, have an appointment to pick up some ULX oil for an oil change before dyno work, will road tune the car before dyno to have a solid base to start from and have some brake pads to fit as well. I have a number I want to see, who's got their guesses? For the record it ran up 449awkw to start with last time, made 495 and ended up with 470. We should see a significant improvement with E85, so another 100kw overall would not be unreasonable

It's a very commonly used thing in drag racing to get more time out of pistons and afford some protection to the piston during the season. It's easy enough to apply, you just spray it on and once you've used a spray gun a few times, you get the hang of making it come out evenly. There is an instrument to measure the thickness of it, I didn't get one cos they are $1200 or something like that. With the gun/compressor settings I use, a very light coat does nearly nothing, a single heavy coat does about 5 thou and a couple of heavy coats is around 10 thou. I have micrometers, so that is what I use to measure the piston after it's dry. Because they are self clearancing it's not vital to have them exactly the same, but they are very close to each other anyway once they're done.

It's always a good idea to ask around to see what the realistic scope of your work is. But if you're not doing it yourself, you should really discuss your goals with a few reputable tuners, and have them design a package that you're both happy with.

Ok well it wasn't the cam timing that was causing the cutting out issue. Yes there was indicators with the cam timing around the cutting issue and while they may be related, it wasn't the cause. Lol I reckon it might be the battery is farked. I knew it was a bit sh*t but I didn't replace it cos it charged up properly. Anyhow I'll get a new one and we'll see how it gets on.

Ok I dunno why but I decided to fix sh*t once and for all and in the most hectic manner possible. In short I put my Kelford 218-C cams in, I locked them up with my Atomic vernier gears and I dialled the cams in with a couple of solid lifters and a dial gauge. I've spent an hour or so dialling it in and I gotta say it's pretty good. I haven't even got the spool assist on and it doesn't feel slow at all! Lol the car has a hella choppy idle but you get that

Nearly 6 months sober, 8 days to go but circumstances have arisen and here I am punching a keyboard and feeling nostalgic... Peace

So far I've only just got it running today and I've only got water in it. Seat of the pants is farking ridiculous but I've yet to plug in the laptop to see what it's doing. The tune was getting borderline hectic for 98, but still ok, so it'll be interesting to see how it's changed. My dyno install has been set back a few weeks, but I'll be sure to lay down the data nice and thick when it's in.

Just finished my car...I repainted it....basically rebuilt it from ground up, engine, suspension drive line, interior....and got a plate that reflected it's performance. Cheers....

Not a massive amount done today, exhaust fitted, dump connector made, hotside fully assembled, check wg spring @12psi, ran the oil line to the turbo to give it a quick fire up and after reverting a few throttle settings it starts and idles now. Maybe tomorrow will see it fully assembled and on the road.

Coming from E series falcons, an engine swap in a BA was a breeze. Everything in the same familiar place, but more accessible. Going to an AWD territory was definitely more cramped. The front diff makes getting to some stuff a little trickier, e.g. starter motor, but otherwise no big deal. The main difference I found was that with the BA/BF, the engine can be lifted straight out. It's a tight fit with the balancer on, but it fits. There isn't enough space in the territory to do this, you need to rotate the engine to lift it out. I've done it a few times and differently each time, but admittedly these were all non turbos. IIRC removing the exhaust manifold and one of the engine mount brackets is enough. Having an engine crane that works properly and can lift to its max height is essential.... I was caught out by this once.

Try showing them the relevant video and say "I'm not paying the $200 unless the process you do is different to that in an appreciable way" etc.