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well raced the car today, was 36 degrees so pretty damn hot and at least 10 degrees hotter than when I last ran it with my nizzy cooler. picked up 3mph and about 0.2sec over my previous pb. Ran on full street trim again with my sh*tty $159 20in tyres lol. So I will say that the cooler is doing its job well. had plenty of wheel spin first through second so was pretty stoked to squeeze out a 10

SA Jarrad / Morpowa A6 FG XR6T Sedan - A.I.R. 10.98 @ 134

] Simon and boys just finish there magic on my weekend car and finish with 485 rwkw Can't wait till Monday pick up ?

Wilco, it's a 996 digger. Picks up 50 tonnes of dirt in a bucket.

yea got his cooler. im going to run it on 98 for a bit then run e85 when I can hit the track and try and smash a 10.6 with slicks. that would make jon happy:D

Playing squash for the first time in about a year...the person I was playing against is just starting out but got progressively better as the night went on. The more important thing is that he made my fat ass get some exercise and is keen to play as many nights a week up on site as we can, not to mention there's a couple of guys who work at the mill that play everyday and said we should all play together and rotate through so we get to play different people. So here's to a hopefully fitter and thinner stripes!

WD 40????????????????????

I just mounted my Enkei PF01s (with Nitto NT01s) on my F6. Fronts are 18x8.5 et30 with 245/40, rears are 18x9.5 et35 with 275/35. Haven't taken them out cause it's gonna rain and I don't want to die. They're for the track only, but damn, they look so much better than I thought they would! I was going to plastidip them grey, but they look perfect in silver. I love the 18" size with the higher profile rubber, looks mean. I'll get to test them properly in 3 weeks, can't wait! By the way the car is lowered on Shockworks coilovers, 355mm hub to arch. Also worth mentioning weight reduction, compared to the standard 19x8 FPV rims with 245 Sport Maxx rubber, which weigh 24.2kg. The Enkei fronts are only 20.6kg and the rears are 22.4, so total reduction in unsprung weight is 10.8kg.

box in, diff in, all fluids done, test driven, cleaned in and out, ready for spiro to do his thing on Tuesday! hopefully all goes well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I remember right I think running 98 on an e85 tune would mean the tune is running rich and that would foul the plugs eventually but that would have to be a relatively long time I would imagine. Plenty of people with barras who swap between 98 and e85 tunes around and only concern is not having your 98 tune too lean so that if you have some e85 still in the tank when you top up with 98 it doesn't lean out

I've heard it can be a ballbreaker if they've increased shift firmness too much to get it back to a happy place but it can be done There use to be a lot of concern with zf tunes but there are a lot of good places with plenty of experience now who know what they're doing. They can break input shafts but depends on the tune and what power level you're at

Shifted way too hard. Would nearly chirp at part throttle changes. I have been in other cars that were sweet with zf tune it all depends how good your tuner is

Yep my zf tune from elite was sh*thouse. Ended up back to stock.

redfarkinghead.pornwithlove :D:D:D:D:D

Change spark plugs? No Just switch fuels Switch tunes and forget

GTX3576? got one of jons coolers on yet? you should make near on 450 with e85 if ya do

cheers Jet, I was pretty stoked with 134mph especially considering how hot it was out there. makes 466rwkw bizkets I dont think Morpowa wanted to push it any further on the stock engine lol

Brilliant time on 20's dude and 134mph is deff 450rwkw

Tried removing my locking nuts to avoid idiots with rattle guns over tightening them... but I was too late. Some fkhead already did it and I broke the socket on the first wheel!

cant beat that spool sound of the gtx hay don. ill have a chat with my mate and might have to get the gtx on the undercover.

Getting home from a 3 day bucks weekend bender and falling into my own bed for a nap.

Had to tighten all the bands on my zorst the other day Seaton. I tightened up one of the clamps on the rear rubber at the same time and mine is back to real quiet again.....only done 8200ks since fitted so maybe something to keep an eye on.

When I load it in the 8x5 trailer, the tailgate sits neatly up against the rear tyre which helps keep the bike snugly in place. What I didnt realise that with the slick tyre being so soft after its been activated, that the edge of the tail gate has worn a groove into the tyre. According to the wear holes, there is 2.6mm of tyre left and the deepest groove is just under 1mm. So in theory I still have more than half the tyre left but with trap speeds exceeding 150mph every pass, sometimes more than 160, and a sh*t tin of power, I decided it would be prudent to replace it. I used a front wheel chock that pushes the bike back about 2" so I'll just load it without the chock in future.

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Yeah the golf R is awd and I also want a 5dr

Restrictive work IT policies. Can't see half the photos in these threads as sites like photobucket are blocked...so I just see a blank post

I'm thinking a golf R at the moment

235/50R17 according to the FG Mk2 brochure.

Wow its pretty ordinary shame to see it like that

Finally found my old man a car after sifting through lots of sh*t, or just a plain lack of FG's in particular. So finally found my old man a 2012 MKII G6 40,000k's. It was owned by Government Department of Attorney General, driven by a judge. If anyone wants to swap the factory ford roof racks for a good condition 17" steel rim and tyre. Or selling for a $100 send me a pm.

200 x 75 treated pine sleeper cut to length with a little sanding on the edges with a flapper wheel covered with marine carpet works for me. Cheap Ad's a little weight to the tail to & comes out in 1 piece. if short bits cut the same it can double as a little bench seat . If you installed a front one as well long flat loads wider than the wheel tubs can now go over top of tubs.

That is awesome

the pod filter is a k&n ru3280. 6" internal & 10" long. its farking massive. the only place I could find them was repco. they only had two in there whole system. my was from paramata and sent to adelaide. but they do sell them on ebay.

Hi All, Here's my feedback on the install. I used Mongoose Qmat as my sound deadening material, this was installed into a G6ET. It is the first time I’ve used anything like this so I am not claiming it to be better or worse etc than the likes of Dynamat or other alternatives, the views are just from my experience of working with Qmat. I bought two ‘trunk kits’, this gave me a total of 10 sheets each measuring 820 x420mm, with the backing sticker removed I measured it with my calipers and found it varied between 1.7-1.9mm in thickness. This is a similar volume to what I would have got from a Dynamat Bulkpack, the QMat was NZ$220 whereas a Dynamat bulkpack would have cost NZ$330. The Qmat is a butynol type product, it cuts well with a sharp pair of scissors – a craft knife can be used but the butynol keeps wanting to stick to the blade, it moulds well to fit in around every little dip and bump which I achieved quite simply by using a flexible plastic ruler – this fitted well in a number of places a roller would not fit, the adhesive backing is super sticky – it can be pulled back off if you need to reposition a mat but you have to do it straight away – try less than a minute later and you’re too late – the mat is staying put. Using the 10 sheets wisely to minimise waste this was just enough to do all four doors (so outer skin and interior frame that the trim sits against), and the top only of the rear parcel tray – I was keen to do the bottom too but ran short but may still do this later. My goal with installing the mat was to improve sound quality and I’m wrapped with what has been achieved. One obvious aim in achieving this was to stop the factory sub rattling the parcel tray and fittings like the high stop light. My verdict on the sound deadening, time consuming to do but if you’re fussy on audio and hate rattles then it is well worthwhile doing this. My audio results may differ to others due to me running after market door speakers (including pillar tweeters) and an amp, the sub hasn't been upgraded yet. Here’s what I’ve noticed, when driving (so no stereo on) the noise level in the cabin is now much quieter, with the stereo on the mid-bass from door speakers has greatly improved. I suspect the gain in clarity is a combination of two things: with the cabin now being quieter the speakers are not having to compete so much with the outside noise so essentially you are hearing more of the speaker noise rather than the road noise too, and secondly improving the mid bass has helped with clarity as well. When tapping on the outside of the doors they now have a solid thud noise to them, also when shutting the doors they now have a nice solid sound to them. Sound deadening the parcel tray has provided the best gain, if someone was short of time/funds and wanted to sound deaden just one area then I’d recommend doing the parcel tray (just the top side used two full sheets of Qmat with next to no waste). However to be balanced with my comments mentioned further below I do need to point out that when taking the sub out I discovered two of the four bolts were loose – so likely to have been a key source of my rattling issue and would have affected bass too. So I’m still running the factory sub with reverse phasing and with the mat in place and sub properly tightened down I’d say the bass has improved about a good 20% - so similar gain to what was achieved when the sub phasing was swapped around if that helps put it into context for those that have done this. With addressing the parcel tray rattles it has also made a huge difference to how clear the sub is. Still not going win any sound offs but for what it is the sub now sounds pretty reasonable and the bass is now much tighter. Now when people say this process is time consuming they aren’t kidding. I averaged 3.5 hours per door, the rear tray took 4.5 hours. I was fairly fussy though making sure I got the mat adhesive to mould hard up against all the little dips and bumps (which there seems to be endless number of!!) and was also measuring and cutting carefully to not waste the mat so it would go further. I found working with smallish pieces was the only way to get the mat on properly when trying to mould it around bumps and dips, it is very difficult to do in larger sheets other than on flat surfaces like the outer door skin and the other thing that makes larger sheets tricky is with the stickyness of the sheets you absolutely can't brush it against any surfaces as it will stick to them - this was a bit of challenge when fitting to the door skins with the limited room to get in there. Steps in process: Remove interior trim, found these two links helpful for an FG interior trim removal - the guy is fitting sound deadening but doesn't do it fully, front door link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNhtEkEcs1Y rear door link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94VgZSvNwWI Use a soft cloth to wipe down all surfaces that will be sound deadened (there was a light film of dust on all of my surfaces) Before fitting the mat I used bits of insulation tape to mark any holes on the door frame that I needed to not block off – so in my case I reused the original factory sound deadening afterwards, one reason for this is it has the built in weather shields for the door speakers. A tip if doing this – when looking at the factory sound deadening it has large X’s moulded on it where there a protruding bump on the opposite side. I started off with the doors by fitting mat to the outer skin, this kicked off with me (rightly/wrongly?) fitting mat in behind the side impact bars (so the fiddly bits first), then fitting larger sheets to the flat parts of the outer skin. I deliberately kept short of pushing the mat hard into corners so as to make it easy for water to escape. When placing mat I aimed to work from the bottom up, this way the overlaps wouldn't trap water if they came loose in the future. When overlapping sheets I did so by around 5-10mm. The Qmat sticks very well to anything – including the outside foil of the overlapped section. The sharp rounded end of the ruler I used was ideal for really working the overlapped edge together. I also used the flexible plastic ruler to push the mat on, it worked well in the tight spaces such as behind/around the door side impact bars I found a craft knife worked well for trimming off excess on round holes like the speaker openings. Be sure to use a fresh blade, any hint of bluntness and it just sticks to the mat instead of cutting it. Speaker openings, handy tip… learnt quick after doing the first door! After fitting the mat you will have covered up the screw holes for the speaker, these holes are difficult to find on the outside surface, however grab yourself small nail, say around 40 x2mm and feel around in inside the door and you’ll quickly find the burrs around the screw holes, from the rear poke the nail through and then work it around to widen the hole. Another key tip… again I learnt quickly after that first door… on the door latch side when doing the frame that the trim goes against don’t get too generous with applying mat around the clips that the door trim fits into, the extra thickness from the matt can affect the clips ability to pop back in nice and tight. I had a couple to adjust afterwards which was a pain to do. For your first door I recommend doing a rear door, these are easier due to better access, after this you’ll be a bit more skilled to tackle a front door. The front doors are a bit difficult as the interior frame that the trim sits against gets in the way when you’re trying to fit the mat to the outer skin. Practice on that rear door first and you’ll then be better skilled. Rear parcel tray, you’ll see some factory pieces on silver sound deadening type material, I left these in place without covering them as I found underneath access to things like the boot hinges etc, also under high stop light is bung which is used for changing the light bulb by accessing through the boot – so again I didn’t cover this up. Here's a few pics of the install. Inside a rear door, lots of things to work around: Started by fitting around side impact bar and then the rest: Interior frame lined: Factory sound deadening liner and speaker refitted: Rear parcel tray stripped: High stop brake light removal, this is a side view of it, note the protruding pieces on the feet, these face back towards you when the light is in place. To remove just put your thumb on each foot and gently push and start lifting it up too, it then pops out.Sound deadened around the sub/high stop light first (pic is after the light and bung were reinstalled):

That would be cool I reckon Keith!Speaking of awesome videos done with GoPro, check this out: http://youtu.be/Rgox84KE7iY

Fitted new Guage holder from stingray to match new color icc I just installed.

I can't explain it. But I do know that non genuine centre bearings are sh*t house and cause dramas like these.

Even his business card is the bomb lol

Well the killer setup is mostly due to Jon Bailey's skill with fabricating, It's him who I refer everyone on to

Didnt he sook over something and frigged off? Cause im pretty sure he still uses or did use the fordforums every now and then