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Hi guys just thought I would update as I have changed a few things with the car, Just fitted McDonalds Brothers sheet metal 4" link 9",weld in 6 point ANDRA Tech cage, new fuel system, new front seats and harness and convo pro wheels..

If you really want 400 at the wheels, you are really going to need to plan for it. I'm close and it makes for a savage daily driver. That much power will destroy ALL of the factory driveline parts on the car. First and foremost is the ZF trans, then it's diff, you shoud be after a Harrop at that level anyway. Next comes all your bushes in the rear. 400 will destroy the stock bushes in your car within 10k. If they are already stuffed... then you will start risking CV's and driveshafts at the same time. At 11.11 my car is the 3rd fastest G6ET in the country. Be careful what you wish for. Don't take this the wrong way, but don't let your aspirations get in front of your budget. You will need to then service your car every 5k after that, need to be changing ZF fluid every 20k from there. The walbro your mate is going to sell you is a waste of time. You will need a surge and 044 arrangement. Jack

you have plenty to learn in what way? with the stock tune in the ECU, data logs showing desired boost, wastegate duty cycle, barometric pressure and MAP pressure, before and after will show whether there is a difference in pressure drop or logs showing desired boost, wastegate duty cycle, MAP, IAT, ambient temp, will show a difference in cooling abilities between the 2.

So a 2nd car was provided to him by HPF for free then while his car sat idle for 12 months? In the same time mine has done nearly 30k at 400rwkw on the road and about 30 passes down the 1/4. Been off the road for less than 2 weeks, both planned. I've done 105k in my car and it's been off the road for less than 2 weeks in 4 years. It is these kind of considerations and costs that NO ONE ever talks about. They don't allow for them. All they see is that you need a GT42 to run an easy 10 at 144mph. It's not money. It's planning ahead. Using the right gear the first time. No corners cut. Jack

As mentioned everyone forgets about all the other parts needed to keep 400rwkw alive. Everyone has missed the first thing that went in mine (395rwkw)..................a tailshaft!!

Henz it depends on how you want to do it. E85 is a huge consideration now. I have zero access to it. So I quote prices for starters and then parts like others don't have open access to it either. To say it's cost him 7k is true. Up keep... no one talks about up keep. It will halve your service time. Depending on how the car is driven then maybe that might be even less than half. Henz I have a Nizpro Stage 2 trans ready for my car. They cost more than G6E Rockets mods. This is where I warn people who are chasing big power, keeping them as daily drivers etc need to understand. Be careful what you wish for. I am providing not the best case scenario. You can run a 10 on 5k. No worries. You will smash your car to bits trying to do it. Trying to get it to do it as an on going concern is completely different. A good quote I read somwhere recently is... there is always money to do things right the 2nd time. I speak not from forum posts, but from my own experience. What it has cost me. How fast I have gone for the money I earned to then go as fast as I have. I don't know if Rapid ever ran a 10. The HPF car did, with 12 months sitting in a workshop with endless problems along the way with a GT42. The other car is G6EPSI and he has run a late 10. We hear very little from here. Similar mods to mine, external wastegate though. I appreciate that everyone wants to go as fast as they can for as cheaply as they can but in the end a 10 sec car, requires a 10 sec cars worth of up keep. To quote that a car has run a 10 but cannot do 700kms a week because it sits broken all time I think needs to be noted as well. My car does a minimum of 700kms a week. I have built for this purpose. Jack

This is my list of parts to get to 400rwkw: GTX3582R + ported wastegate & flapper mod 4inch turbo side intake 1000cc injectors (I think your 80lbers will be ok) Surge tank + 044 Bigger Intercooler Valvesprings 4 inch dumppipe + high flow cat going into a 3.5 inch catback. Xcal3 Purely on engine mods, I spent close to $9000. Add to that the cost of fitting parts if you can't and tuning the car and that figure will be closer to $12,000 Don't forget that the G6ET does not come with a LSD. A decent tailshaft, LSD and diff bush combo will set you back about $3000. As for the gearbox, once you get to 400rwkw, start saving immediately for a ZF rebuild. It will need one eventually. As for the fuel system, if you really want 400rwkw, then budget for a surge tank + 044.

Red leather and red vinyl wrapping roof

Fuel system is not finished just yet, but you can kinda get the idea here,

Could be placebo!

Carnt beat that deal vertinis look tough , GS ute also tough

Coke

Hey Chris leave it to Beaver I've got plans for this...... joe

20 hours in a farkin Hyundai and get home to no power. FML!

Saw it in the flesh today, Porn IMO. Though I am a fan of stanced and people doing something new.

No, no PP's. Was thinking of maybe getting XRT 410

As SHP said. You will need a bigger turbo for 400rwkw. GTX3582r FTW.

Here u go mate..

Joke taken Every set of KPM Bosch EV14 injectors receives the correct scaling data . Our stance is that it does not take 20 pages of wording to be able to offer scaling and make it a better/ worse , cheaper/dearer injector.

I'm surprised that its possible to find the limits of the Brembos on the street. Somethig must be wrong and it's probably pads or fluid bleed related. I also have stainless steel braided lines at the front. I've gone through 4 sets of pads so far over the last few years at the circuit. Stock ones were fine on the circuit with road tyres but no good with semi's. SBS Dual Carbon Race pads were good, as were some Endless PC35's, but best pads by a mile for stopping power so far have been Project Mu H16-03 (track use only though). They cooked/cracked an expensive set of DBA5000's though after a few track days though but this has hopefully been solved with some front ducting. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/82010-cracked-my-355mm-dba5000-t3s/ Haven't heard of TRW pads sorry.

niiiicccceee, now ya giving me ideas

many of the members here have not run 11's and yes I know some have run a lot quicker than that, but everybody seems to think unless you have a T, then you have a slug, the boss when set up right can run with most average T's and with out spending a sh*t load of money. Monza coolers are crap, and not just on back to back dyno runs, they limit power because their cooling is not that great, even on 1 dyno run the power will be down compared to a decent cooler

Yeah they are 25mm all round. I like it more and more everytime I see it, I think it looks a little nicer in person, but hard to say when I like it anyway!

This is a good video to show what's happening http://youtu.be/YEfqKoilLkI

Henz yea pretty much straight in, a little cutting here and there, but awesome kit though, and Luke down @ Motor Fab on the Gold Coast fitted it with the new cage and exhaust..

Fkn wet - cabin fever setting in :(

Love it!!!!

Alcohol and boredom.. Mixed with random TV shows can make people have some fairly deep and meaningful conversations...

Its been a long time coming,but finally back on the road again.I never thought this day was ever going to come.Well it turns out the problem was the power steering senser,was faulty.That had everybody stumped.We had been looking at ecu,thottle bodys,acellerater pedal sensor,became so frustated after xmas,sent it to auto electricians to get a clear head to start again.What they did was to pull wires off till they got a result.Also another not normal thing,wire off car starts,wire on no start.Not running to potental yet,but easter will see it in townsville & mackay to get a few extra goodies and a tune & dyno.

Yes it will make it here, wont see any tuning options in the near future, the ecoboosts are not very mod friendly but neither were the r35's when they rolled out

f*cking police. The woman over the road stands naked in her shower watching me having a wank and I'm the pervert !

Nah Corzza PCM doesn't need battery to store stuff.

SHP yeah kinda working on it. Fellas my battery died and managed to jump start it. Do I need to reload the tune do you think?

Yeah you do, that and $5k extra and the 8 will keep up with the T!

BA drag car new fg tow car

Judging by the size of the front brakes ide say it's N/A

I think the aircon thing is covered somewhere on the forum.. Search may help..

Mark probably has?

yep same as fpv badges on Xrs

OK so have had the Toyos on the rear for a few weeks now - wet and dry. What a difference! I have to deliberately want to get the back end out now otherwise it just grips with a little squealing. If I floor it, well no 255 road tyre is going to reel in that torque. The difference between the Toyo's Static and Dynamic coefficients of friction is very little. The Slumlops had a vast divide between these two numbers. This meant that once the Dumlops broke loose, you had to back off the throttle a long way before you gained grip again - and then only to do it all over again every few seconds. Meanwhile, that stock Honda Accord has just blown you off and is laughing at you all the way to the trye shop.... In corners they don't seem to have the sidewall stiffness of the Dumbslops but surprisingly seem to hang on better - and give lots of warning before they give up. I liken the Sport Slaxx to the old BF Goddrich Radial TAs of the 1980s. Barely OK in the dry but skittish as hell in the wet. In the wet the Toyos are composed and seem to have better straight line traction than sideways - I still like the Slops on the front as they have v good lateral grip in the wet and I don't care about their straight line grip. Their tread directionality I think plays a good part in their lateral performance. But go the Toyos Proxes T1 Sport !!! And an agressive price hunt got these for me at only $365 a piece fitted and ballanced - a bargain! but BIGGEST LESSON everyone, is to get your rear toe-in adjustment checked as even an ever-so slight mismatch will result in dramatic differences in tyre wear between the inside and outside of the tyre. Evidently (the guy said) Falcoms are notorius for their rear end to loose toe. Gutters and pothole/speedhumps are our enemy here guys so get it checked. For me, this also help the car go a little less sideways when the wheels did loose traction - this could be seen as a god or a bad thing...

People should probably stop saying Nitto as if it's a specific tyre Invos are good and decently priced, NT05's are gripper versions. I have noticed the most difference using Invos after going from KU31's in cornering. They handle corners very well even when tread is really past the point of needing replacement. I only have experience with stock BFII XR suspension setup though, and tired at that.

Too true... I was going to post last week when I first saw the thread, but I also wanted to see what mats car did on the other dyno, but turns out he has some re-occuring sh*t in his fuel system that needs sorting. Its great that poeple have a lot of trust and faith in their chosen tuner / mechanic, and no one should be bagging one or the other for having different views, its all good info that needs to be spelt out clearly for some. Another thing I see constantly is tuners being backed into a "power corner" without the customer fully understanding thier cars issues or their own goals... I see guys go from shop to shop, telling tuner they expect X kws because their mate or a bunch of dudes in another state are making that power figure, regardless of other small variations that have a huge effect on power, and the willingness of a tuner to push the car harder than other tuners... this leave the tuner backed in a corner, thinking sh*t, should I smash boost into it and make the X kws he wants, or should I respect the fact that his motor has 150000kays on it, his fuel system is juuuust big enough to support the power, tune it safer but at a lower power than he wants?? Tune it up to X kws and fingers crossed it doesnt go bang?? Tune it up to X kws and not give a sh*t if it goes bang?? Tune it to less than X kws but its safe , should go bang, but will customer be happy or pissed he didnt get X kws for all his mods he paid for??

They have focused on Japanese sourced vehicles. I suppose that has kept them busy enough, but I don't really know. However, they are based in the U.K! Cobb tuning is another company that does great stuff, based in the U.S. Strangely, it also focuses on Japanese vehicles, plus BMW. You'd think they at least try to compete with SCT. With our Fords making power is easy; with E85 it is easier... yet progress on the ecu front is stagnant. Brian

I only had it fitted last week. I had bought 8 * 20 litre containers, and so far that batch has been consistently reading 76/77. I might then run my tank right down and test out 20 litres of Caltex to see what it reads. The video I saw on youtube showed a tank of standard fuel being replaced with E85, and it showed the E content changing real-time. I think the E85 debate will move off whether 1 or 2 pumps are required, and move more towards AFR's that work well for spool-up and power, as well as fuel quality. We are still very limited for tuning in the Ford world. It would be very good to have true Eflex capability and dynamic map switching, instead of fl reflashing. For example the Vipec ecu that I have in my ecu has real-time ecu adjustments, so it can automatically adjust fueling and timing for any fuel, as the Zeitronix can send a voltage signal to the ecu according to the ethanol content. Brian

ref http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.shtml It arrived within a week. Brian

Interesting comments in this thread. I have not converted my Ford turbos to E85, but recently have converted my STi. I’m surprised that anyone would consider running just 1 single 044, when pushing over 420rwks, when you consider the extra fuel flow required by E85. In my STi I changed over my 044 pump with a single 625 Magnaflow (1500hp capable), and my injectors to ID2000’s. I don’t subscribe to the belief that a single 044 600HP rated pump is OK. It maybe OK in an instance, but I doubt what anyone would recommend it if you wanted to err on the side of caution. People should note that the Caltex Eflex fuel is often 70% ethanol, but can vary up to 85% or more. Having a specific 70% tune would not be optimal if the fuel out of the bowser was say 80% ethanol, and you could get that at any time. Caltex is more likely to use 70% ethanol in winter for better cold starting, and increase the ethanol content in summer. I also bought a Zeitronix digital fuel analyzer from the U.S, as it’s always worth knowing the ethanol content of the fuel. You should ALWAYS know the ethanol content of the fuel as used in a tune. The picture below shows the gauge showing the Ethanol content, here 87% out of the bowser at United at Rozelle in Sydney. The picture below shows the surge tank, Magnaflow pump, and Zeitronix unit, and a very good installation by Tunehouse. Brian

I really think poeple are getting too paranoid about Ethonal fuel and not being told or understanding the main beneifts of using it. There's alot of pro's and cons with it and its really something you need to consider personally, rather than go by what is read on many forums... There's a few guys commenting in this thread that I have been involved with in setting up their cars and giving them information, soley based on our ( Rapidsystems and Crescent motorsport ) have found while extensivley testing and tuning with CALTEX & UNITED SYDNEY "E85" fuels. You've got the cost, which is less than 98 by around 20-40cent a litre ( give or take ), the MPH factor which greatly varies depending on how the TUNER sets AFRs & timing at cruise & light throttle, its going to use sh*tloads on WOT so lets not even worry about that, but your general rule of thumb that I have seen is, add 30% flow to a given system designed for 98... example 60lb dekas are happy to support 400wkws (again this is a general figure as an example), so if you want your 400wkws on E85 ( be it Eflex 70% or United 90% ), add in the extra 30% flow of injectors & pump(s) and your in the ball park. I use 80lb injectors at 450wkws which have been great. At the other end of the scale, say someone with 350wkws but not wanting more, you can still get the benefits of Ethonal while staying at the medium power level. Benefits can be a cooler running engine, cleaner engine, cooler fuel, less boost used to run same power, more timing advance ( so more power ), when tuned with more timing advance / leaner AFR at cruise better fuel ecconemy , or at least similar fuel ecconemy at a cheaper pump price... and lets not forget that there is alot less polution. At the big end of the scale you can push way more boost into a motor, and more timing long befor it will detonate, but you still need to stay within the motors mechanical abillity, as in dont go bonkers and run 30+ psi on a stock motor like I do, it will break eventually, it can just take longer... though my first FG motor only broke due to massive lean out at 35+psi , I'm sure with correct fueling it would still be fine as it ran 30psi for a decent amount of time. AFR mixtures dont seem to be as anal as with 98 in regards to making power, we've seen the power figure stay constant on 10:1 up to 14:1, where as on 98 there is a huge change in power. So by those results you can see how much of a broader "window" the tuner has to opperat and tune with... a little touch leaner here and there isnt going to cause the same issues that it does with 98, so if your tuned to an AFR at WOT of 11.0 on one servos Ethonal mix, and fill at another servo and see it lean off to 12.5 as an example, its not time to freak out and wait for a big bang. So I say use it while we still have it, as Ive heard talk of it being dropped from sale due to lack of sales... then again we hear talk of more servos planning to sell it, so who knows there. But if you have a servo, either Caltex or United near you on or your route to work, get into it, its the best thing that's happened to performace cars in years, extra kws at the pump, for less $ , you cant say no to that. By the way, I'm not talking about any "barrel Ethonal " or special blends / mixes ect, from what Ive been told, caltex and United have additives to suit our cars which is why the factory filters and lines are holding up very well... Ive no idea if these barrel mix's have additives in them, which is possibly why poeple have had fuel line & filter issues. Get into the stuff... its awesome, boost up and have piece of mind. Cheers Chris

As I said before The Valve stem seals were eaten away, Valve guides were worn... In Short terms, Our company vehicles were showing wear at 50000 klm, of what you should see at 250000 klm. Now as doing some research I do know certain engines are certified for this High Ethanol Percentile Fuel mix. And Some are still yet to make the required upgrades to there engines. Im pretty sure its nothing more than when we used to all run on Leaded fuel, Converting to an Unleaded fuel we all needed an additive of some sort.

Mine is tuned on United pump E85 makes 546rwkw on 23psi Nizpro tuned . I must say that the fuel consumption with the power its running is impresive drove it to Gipsland from Chelsea got 400 km to a tank. The best part $1.12 a liter. 850 hp drive around like its bone stock not many cars can do that.