Audiophiles Opinions On Premium Upgrade

[Max Power]

Hi guys.

Got a MkII with premium sound and have a bit of a dilemma.

Ive got a rockford fosgate 500X 4 channel amp and HE2 12" sub still in boxes that I got from the U.S. They were planned to go in the R8 clubbie before I saw the light and sold it to get the T.

The premium sound sounds good enough though the factory sub is pretty crappy to the point that you cant tell that youve got one.

I'd like to bridge the sub off 2 channels and run some upgraded 6x9s in the parcel shelf.

Some of the questions I have;

Do I leave it alone or mod it?

If mod = yes then ;

What 6x9s (or whatever is used in the parcel shelf) should I run?

Given that the cars standard amp is in the boot behind the left side cover, will the wire tapping to the new amp be straight foward or are there gonna be unforseen issues?

Anything I may have missed that you want to add?

What do you experts think?

P.S. Anyone have schematics that they can send me?

Regards,

Max

Edited 10/12/04 02:34 AM by Max Power

[Falchoon]

Goldie is the resident sound sytem expert.

I wouldn't go cutting holes in the parcel shelf to mount other speakers either, maybe you can use MDF spacers so the back of the speakers will fit through the factory holes.

You would need to upgrade the puny factory cable while you are at it I would think otherwise it would pretty much be a waste of time.

I'm in a similar predicament having a pair of 6 x 9 Pioneers and and a 10" sub and an amp rescued from my previous car, gathering dust in the cupboard at the moment.

The factory speakers (front and rear) are an oddball size 7 x 5. There are several manufacturers that do good replacement ones, Eclipse is one brand that springs to mind.

[veczar]

I have just installed sub and amp in my MKII T (with prem sound). There are unforseen issues...

You should:

-Run a fresh high amp power line from the battery with a nice fuse at battery end.

-Tap earth onto body (sand where you choose to do this)

-Use left and right channels on the rear speakers to get high outputs.

-Convert hi outputs to low outputs with a converter then into amp.

-There are no remote lines in the boot so you can run a switch to the 12v line u put in OR like me I rewired the trailer line to an accessory line (because I dont have a tow bar) OR run an assesory line from the front.

-Do not touch the factory amp it does fancy power sensing stuff and you can only get crappy strange sound off it.

-Maybe unplug the factory sub because of phase issues.

Any more questions I will atemp to answer. I put in the hard work now you can reep the info

[Lawsy]

Speaking of phase issues, this is one that I'm really cheesed about.

In my little astina, I stuck a fairly meataxe head unit (55x4) in the thing, its from kenwood, with some 350w 6x9's and 250w 6inch 3 ways at the front. It cranks fairly hard for not having an amp (quite supprised actually).

But guess where there just 'happens' to be a big black whole of destructive interference, right in the 20 - 100hz range... Yep, in line with the drivers head.

Great.

[Lawsy]

Would you guys like to donate to the "lawsy needs 2 amps and a sub" fund?

pwease

[mk11tute]

how did you hook your amp up to your head unit I was told theres no rca plugs on mine even though I have premium sound??

[NighEve]

I have been procastinating terribly to not complete my stereo in the ute; so I cannot honestly give you results of changes, although can probably add the following general information on upgrading audio in your T:

1. Forget 6x9s in parcel shelfs etc. There size is redundant if you intend running a decent powered sub; as these will handle all your bottom end frequencies better than any 6x9 could. Replacement speakers the same size as the factory ones is fine, or just run the stockers, as in most cases they will be faded out for the front sound stage anyway).

2. A ported box can be difficult to construct without predefined specs, and can be a nightmare to tune - the port needs to be the correct size and the box will generally need to be bigger (they will give you higher SPL, but can be more soggy then sealed boxes). Usually leave these and bandpass designs to the experts. A sealed box is punchier and easier to tune (you can find good articles on the net to do construction yourself - cubic capacity is important in matching to your sub, so consult your paperwork with the sub or find the info the net).

3. The front sound stage is the key to a high quality system. As noted, there are only a limited number of decent 5x7 component speakers (like JL's, MB quartz etc). If you intend powering the fronts with an aftermarket amp, you could always look at putting in 6.5 inch components in the front doors as most of these will fit or only require minimal mods - your choice then is massive and you will get better value for money.

4. Always run heavy gauge power wires that are well shielded and particularly separated from the singal wires (RCAs, speaker wires) to avoid interference. As noted, run a decent fuse block to safeguard your wiring. Jaycar electronics have all you need in the way of the wiring, fuses, terminals, and connectors at a good price (if you buy this stuff from an auto store you will get raped). The quality of your earth is important to avoid interference.

5. If you go ahead and set that kind of system up (most times you will have some help if you have never done it before yourself), seriously consider getting an audio expert to help tune the thing for you to the kinds of music you listen to (the best gear in the world will still sound crap without the correct frequencies dailed in on the amp crossovers).

Good luck!

[veczar]

how did you hook your amp up to your head unit I was told theres no rca plugs on mine even though I have premium sound??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Read my first post in this topic As I said; I used the left and right high outputs from the BA head unit (you find them connected to the left and right speakers in the rear parcel shelf). Splice onto them just before the speaker. You will need a high to low (RCA) converter after the splice. Do not put more speakers directly off the splice/head unit because the factory head unit doesnt have enough power to drive more cones. Go into and amp via a converter. Clear?

Cheers!

[veczar]

2. A ported box can be difficult to construct without predefined specs, and can be a nightmare to tune - the port needs to be the correct size and the box will generally need to be bigger (they will give you higher SPL, but can be more soggy then sealed boxes).  Usually leave these and bandpass designs to the experts.  A sealed box is punchier and easier to tune (you can find good articles on the net to do construction yourself - cubic capacity is important in matching to your sub, so consult your paperwork with the sub or find the info the net).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My sub box is way too small for the size/power 12" Clarion I am running but it is ok for now untill I find a box that will fit neatly in the boot. All the hard groundwork is done all I need to do is get some money and get a good perfect fit box and higher powered amp for my sub. This will be a 2 hour swapout job. In the meantime the current box that looks ugly and doesnt fit does a good temporary job. I will need a custom box to fit in the XR6T w/ prem sound boot and to still have enough displacment for the rather large cubes required by my sub.

[veczar]

One question I have: I loose most of my power to the good noise shelding of the xr6t's boot. Once I open the rear seats down the bass is so powerful! Shut it up and it makes me cry. Any ideas because I know this is a comon problem in all sedans.