Fg Ute Audio Setup

[Trough Lolly]

whatevers easier for you....

[F6_jase]

was easier and cheaper, $680 installed for amp and subby and all the bass that I need

[Nolz]

So it was just the addition of the sub then? Isn't it amazing how much better it all sounds

I've just bought myself a pair of 2 way Alpines (6.5") which I'll shove into the doors some time this week. I'll make notes and take photo's if that'd help anyone.

[F6_jase]

Yeh Nolz, its 200% better mate. cant beleive the difference it made! some pics of the speaker change would be good.

[Nolz]

OK so to start....a big THANKS to everyone from both AFF and fordxr6t.com for all the handy hints and tips with regard to the stereo in my fg ute!

I had my auto elec install an Alpine Line converter so I could run RCA's to my monoblock clarion amp. He chose to tap into the wiring from behind the head unit to eliminate any erroneous noise and get the best signal he could. Not too sure if it makes much difference but sounds good in theory and he did it with the best intentions and the result is great so that's fine by me

The monoblock powers a shallow mount Clarion 10" sub. Shallow mount because I want to keep as much space behind my seats as possible. As a result the box volume itself is only 14L and really is very compact. The seat goes all the way back with room to freely access the rear seat pocket without the sub getting in the way. The box was DIY and I had to build around the box to give it a bigger base to sit on (for sideways action). Total sub cost (inc wiring and auto elec $550)

That was a week ago. So fast forward to this afternoon and I start to get cracking with the door speakers. With the help of other ford enthusiasts I found that it was really quite straight forward. I'll rehash what others have told me and what I found out myself.

You can start with the spears if you like, prying with a flat head screw driver from the front edge. I'd suggest you get the screw driver deep in there before prying so as not to put too much of a bend in any one spot. It's held in by 3 clips and does come out without too much fuss however a bit of pressure is required.

This exposes 2 of 5 screws in total. There are 2 more at the base of the door skin and 1 under the rubber flap of the door handle. Upon removing the door handle screw, the door handle should lift out with a bit of resistance. You will probably need to loosen some of the flaps of door material from the metal underneath the door handle.

I found it easiest to start removing the door skin from the front top corner. ie the edge near the rear view mirror get your fingers under it and gently pry. They are held in quite well but will just pop out. Don't just yank the bastard off just yet, disconnect the power window switch and door handle cable.

NOTE The drivers side door has the electric rear view mirror controls also, now this was a C*nt to remove and I ended up (accidentely) snapping OFF the unit as opposed to removing the plug!. NOTE!!!!!To remove it you need to get a small flat head UNDER it to release the catch, it's not visible nor can you feel it. NOTE!!!!!

This then exposes your stock speaker!

Remove and throw at the neighbours cat. Failing contact, chase and kick.

Notice that the connector goes straight into what I THOUGHT was a mounting base. It is marked on the unit which wire is +VE. Take note of the colour. Now, I thought it was a mounting base, as it's been a while and my commodores where set up this way. In the Fraud, that whole unit IS THE SPEAKER! Like I said...chuck at cat.

If you're lucky the speakers you buy may come with a mounting bracket. I used it with the aid of a MDF spacer which I cut to size (6mm). It was implemented as the speaker magnet was too deep and touching on the power window rail. In this pic you can also see how I disconnected the power mirror unit. There is a free moving part in there so if this happens to you, make sure yo DON'T LOSE IT!

Reassembly is the exact reverse of the above, The plastic plugs need a good solid wack (or fly kick) to get back in. Be sure to connect the door release cable back on its clips and make sure you connect and trial run the speakers and power windows before throwing the skin back on.

Hope this helps! And feel free to fire any q's my way.

ooh, the improvement? Bloody outstanding. The reason why I went with a 10" along with space restrictions was because I prefer my bass fast and punchy. Now it was good with the sub along however the added mid bass from the new door speakers now make it even better. Not only is it a good rumble through the seats but I now get a good punch in the guts to boot! Treble.....well it was if it wasn't there before.

Spekers, $100 (on sale from $149 from jb)

So if I round up this little exercise to $700 I'd say it pretty bloody good vale for money. Certainly well beyond any stock system by a country mile!

Nolz

[omie_747]

so what exactly is the size of the front speakers in the new Fg falcons??

cheers

[PHANTMXR6]

It's hard to tell.

As Nolz said, they are a complete speaker and mount assembly.

But they are somewhere between a 6" and 6 1/2"

I gutted the speaker part out of my mounts and fitted 5 1/4" splits.

I had to make some mdf spacers to go between the speaker and the original mount as the 5 1/4" speakers are slightly smaller than the gutted mounts.

You can fit both 6 1/2" speakers and 5 1/4" just depends on how you want to fit them.

[omie_747]

ive just been down to a professional car audio place, what you think of this setup?? and do you not reccomend to use any of the items listed.. need some opinions as im quiet a noob when it comes to car audio.

system quoted was as follows :

MB Quart 6.5 splits ( PVI261)

Rockford Fosgate T600-4 (4ch amp)

Rockford Fosgate 360.1

Rockford Fosgate P2 sub in custom made box to fit behind passenger seat (ute)

Wiring etc.. and installation costs drive in drive out was $2300

your help and opinions will be really apprechiated.

cheers

[tab]

Remove and throw at the neighbours cat. Failing contact, chase and kick.

Which option did you go with?

Nice write-up

[smicky]

ive just been down to a professional car audio place, what you think of this setup?? and do you not reccomend to use any of the items listed.. need some opinions as im quiet a noob when it comes to car audio.

system quoted was as follows :

MB Quart 6.5 splits ( PVI261)

Rockford Fosgate T600-4 (4ch amp)

Rockford Fosgate 360.1

Rockford Fosgate P2 sub in custom made box to fit behind passenger seat (ute)

Wiring etc.. and installation costs drive in drive out was $2300

your help and opinions will be really apprechiated.

cheers

Hey Mate,

Looks like a pretty good setup to me...

One thing I am unable to find however is the MAX RMS rating for the PVI216 (Im assuming you mean the 216 and I think there is a 261...)

The specs rate the speakers are a 4ohm 70-140w, therefore I will 'assume' its 70W RMS... (they have not advised what the rating method is either...

So having said this - assuming the 216's are 70W RMS @ 4 ohm - good match to the RF T600 amp.

RF 360.1 -

RF P2 sub - which P2? 8", 10", 12" 4ohm or 2 ohm DVC? Assuming its the 10" 4ohm DVC - will be fine and happy with the amp bridged...

Price $2300 all inc... sound pretty good to me too!

Will be a tough sounding little system mate! Im sure you will be very happy with it!

Might want to make sure they add in a cap as well.. other then that... looks pretty good!

If you want other options around the say $$$ - you can also look at Polk, Boston, Infinity, are all similar level products to the RF and MB...

Whack in some sound matting as well...