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  • F6+300+
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  • Member For: 20y 5m 9d
  • Location: In The Ute

Actualy they are the ones I used and at that price you cant go wrong unless you scrimp and try and use only one which will do you no good at all.

Say a single 3.5" Cat has an area of 9.6"

A 4" Cat has an area of 12.5"

so I used 2 x 3.5" which is equal to 19.2"

That coupled to 3.5" twin works great. :censored:

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  • F6+300+
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  • Member For: 20y 5m 9d
  • Location: In The Ute
  Xtreme F6 said:
Greg with no other mods and the 265 odd rwkw's what was the boost and the afr's with the new system?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Glad you asked Simon because that is very important and something that everyone should be aware of…..

As this is done on the factory tune you can imagine what happens to the Boost and A/F.

The A/F leaned out towards 14/1 at full noise which is not good and needs to be addressed or serious damage will occur.

Boost was the same as the first run (9Psi) until @ 4000rpm at which point it rose to @ 12Psi.

So in other words DON’T just think you can open the exhaust up and everything will be OK as you will most likely do a lot of engine damage.

The factory Map tables are not set to be able to compensate for the exhaust difference.

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  F6_Tornado said:
  Xtreme F6 said:
Greg with no other mods and the 265 odd rwkw's what was the boost and the afr's with the new system?

Glad you asked Simon because that is very important and something that everyone should be aware of…..

As this is done on the factory tune you can imagine what happens to the Boost and A/F.

The A/F leaned out towards 14/1 at full noise which is not good and needs to be addressed or serious damage will occur.

Boost was the same as the first run (9Psi) until @ 4000rpm at which point it rose to @ 12Psi.

So in other words DON’T just think you can open the exhaust up and everything will be OK as you will most likely do a lot of engine damage.

The factory Map tables are not set to be able to compensate for the exhaust difference.

its pretty amazing to see how much the factory system is trying to control it but its just out of its reach to be able to do so. Good info dude.

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  • Member For: 20y 7m 1d
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F6-Tornado,

Great info but please tell us more,

A friend has a BF auto phoon on order, he is going to go down the mod path with it, planned so far is 968's, edit, filter, wastegate actuator, and exhaust. He is looking for a cruisey 310rwkw.

Could you otuline sizes etc you have used, dump pipe etc. he was thinking APS but this sounds like the set-up to me.

as much ifo as you can give would be great.

Thanks heaps.

  • F6+300+
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  • Member For: 20y 5m 9d
  • Location: In The Ute
  Eugene said:
F6-Tornado,

Great info but please tell us more,

A friend has a BF auto phoon on order, he is going to go down the mod path with it, planned so far is 968's, edit, filter, wastegate actuator, and exhaust. He is looking for a cruisey 310rwkw.

Could you otuline sizes etc you have used, dump pipe etc. he was thinking APS but this sounds like the set-up to me.

as much ifo as you can give would be great.

Thanks heaps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

For 310rwkws all he will need is twin cats and a good system to match.

I ran mine twin 3.5 all the way to the first muffler at which point I stepped back to twin 2.5” then onto the resonator again 2.5”

Set of injectors..Nizpro drilled 100’s or 968’s and Edit.

That’s it. The filter is not such a big thing but cheap.

I've had mine to 328 without the actuator but it is far better with it to control the boost up high in the RPM.

If he wants 325rwkws then all the above and the wategate actuator as well that way it will do it easy.

:laughing:

Edited by F6_Tornado
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  ugy said:
He took off the cat  put a resonater on that had an inlet of 3" and outlet of 2.5 with a length of 2.5 to a Y section into the twin 2.25s. Not a happy camper

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Took it back and got a 3" pipe in. Definatly wants a retune :spoton:

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