Turbo Oil Supply Screen Cleaning

[Ralph Wiggum]

Hey guys the new engine in my car has done almost 10000k's now so i decided i would be a good time to remove the oil supply screen and inspect and clean it. I wanted to ensure there was no metal or debris in it from the running in period and with Ninka helpful expertise removed, cleaned and refitted the screen. I took as many photos as i could but its very difficult to get a decent shot of the assembly on the car. With the recent run of turbo failures i thought a how guide might be helpful.

Heres a basic how to guide...

Step 1: Find the Damn thing:Jack the car up and place it on good jack stands.The Turbo oil supply fitting is located on the left side of the engine block directly above the LHS engine mount. The easiest access is from under the car up and over the engine cross member near the starter motor.

Step 2: removing the fittings:1st you need to remove the oil pressure switch wiring. Then you need to remove the adapter fitting for the oil pressure switch to remove the pipe from the screen. To do this you need a 24mm spanner to remove the adapter fitting and another 24mm to hold the screen fitting that screws in to the block. Its VERY VERY important that you hold the screen fitting in the block to prevent it from rotating and kinking the oil supply pipe as you try to remove it. If you remove the oil pressure switch first (22mm socket or spanner, once again make sure you hold the filter screen) you can use a socket to remove the adapter.

Step 3: Remove the Screen: Not quite as easy as it sounds....If you car has an FPV oil cooler fitted and has a ZF6 speed trans this step is going to make you cry.. The access is very tight. Remove the screen from the engine block with a 24mm spanner.

step 4: cleaning the screen: I used CRC contact cleaner but any spray solvent will do.(ie carby cleaner) Spray through the hole back into the fitting. This is the opposite direction to the normal oil flow and will flush the screen. Once you have flushed the screen spray any debris from inside the fitting with the solvent. Use a wire brush to remove any old sealant from the screen and oil pressure switch. Use your solvent to clean out the adapter fitting.

Step 5: Sealing washers: The washer are available from Ford (part number: E8321495300) They all come from Ford with marks in the sealing surface from when they are manufactured.(Ninka Tip #1) To ensure the best seal its advisable to remove these marks. The best way to do this is with a piece of Wet and Dry sand paper on a flat piece of wood or glass. A smooth piece of concrete also work well (thats what i did... ).Annealing the copper to soften it will also enhance sealing

They should be more like this.....the smoother the better you want to get ride of any deep grooves. The very light surface marks don't matter.

Step 6: Reassembly: The Screen fitting has a circlip groove cut into the inside of it for the screen retaining circlip. The fitting is EXTREMELY THIN . in this area if you try to over tighten the adapter fitting onto the screen YOU WILL BREAK THE SCREEN the scrren fittings are $70 a pop from your local Fraud service center.

(sorry for the p*ss poor photo but it was very hard to photograph)

To ensure you don't need to over tighten it use the best hydraulic sealant you can find. I use Loctite PST 561 in a stick. Its designed for much higher pressures than a lube system could ever dream of making. Make sure you clean any oil from the fitting with your solvent. Refit the fitting to the block and tighten. It doesn't need to be super tight as its a tapered fitting.

Step 7: Refitting the oil supply tube: install one of the sealing washers onto the screen fitting. (Ninka tip#2 a small smear of Hydraulic sealant on both sides of the sealing washer this will help ensure a good seal). Refit the oil supply tube. This may take a bit of giggling to get it to slide down past the thread but it will go.

Step 8: Install the adapter fitting: Fit a second washer on to the screen with a light smear of sealant on both side and apply sealant to the thread on the end of the screen fitting. Install the adapter onto the screen. Make sure you hold the screen fitting with a 24mm spanner to prevent it turning and kinking the pipe!

If you have applied the sealant and cleaned up the washer as described it wont need to be very tight just snug. Be mindful that if you go at it like a gorilla you risk breaking the screen fitting.

Step 9: Refit the oil pressure switch. Once again clean up the thread to remove any old sealant. Use your solvent. If the sealant is stubborn you a wire brush to remove it. Apply new sealant to the threads. Refit the switch to the adapter fitting. Use a 24mm spanner to hold the adapter fitting to prevent the whole lot form turning and kinking the pipe. Refit the switch wiring

Step 10: The test:Lower the car down and run it until it reaches running temp. Check for leaks...if there no leaks you a champ if there is you phucked up and didn't follow the directions properly....

Please fell free to add to this if i missed anything....

Luke

Edited 10/02/07 03:23 PM by hiddeous

[Ninka]

You've done well, and this is a good comprehensive description of how to clean the screen.

Well done

[FSIX]

On my BF F6 its appears to be in a different spot, its on the same brass housing as my oil pressure sender switch.

3 brass pieces screwed into each other, with all the oil cooler lines etc: best get it on a hoist reach from behind and have another set of eyes at the front of the car directing your hand.

Good job hiddeous

[RAP1D]

Tops write up!

Mines done 20k now so I'll clean it out now, thanks for the how to

[XR06T]

not sure that I should give it a go but..

seems way too easy to pinch the pipe

great write up!

[stealthxr]

Top post, really informative....

Thanks for your efforts guys...

Pete

[SavageF6]

Awesome post Hiddeous.

On my BF F6 its appears to be in a different spot, its on the same brass housing as my oil pressure sender switch.

←

Cheers for that dude. Anyone able to snap off a pic or two on a BF?

Edited 12/02/07 01:47 AM by Spruce

[mbjunior99]

Awesome. Now I just need to take these instuctions to someone that knows what they are doing and I'll be fine

[Wright'y]

cheers hiddeous for that how to,

it was pretty easy thanks to your detailed step by step info.

I stared cleaning that screen and then saw that circlip.

So I removed it and the screen came out.

Not too hard if your got small skinny circlip pliars.

Also when I was removing the oil pipe I found my washers were steel washers with rubber seals.

Of couse I chose to start this a 6 pm on a saterday, thinking I would just heat up the old cooper washers and dip them then reuse them but was suprised to find these.

Its a 02 T so mabey thay hadent used cooper back then?

Any way it all good now, and I know its clean.

Made me think what a waste of turbos there will be with half or more of the owners with no clue of this screen and think of all the turbo with dead lines aproaching

[T007]

How much crap have you guys found when you pulled them out

How often should this be done

Thanks