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Yep. The tuner made good numbers. He said with the 1.15ar turbine it's basically a g40.. made 545rwkw on 24-25psi. Said it had more left in barrel but it's pushing sh*t up hill with a stock block and the temporary NA zf started to smell like grinding steal 😆

she’ll be right send it I say, did you get it tuned yet?? Any results and how’s the boost response? I keep coming back to this turbo for the next upgrade

I have a 600 hp factory turbo I an 460 Walbro . I am putting a 3584 gen 2 on it and I need to add a surge tank. I am on a budget and I've seen 100 different tanks on ebay and have no idea what to get . I have an 800 $ budget to get a tank and pump and please help me with some links or info I am going for 800 whp .

Happy Monday. I've been sick today (and for a few days) so, yay...

Checking the cooling system. I had a bad experience with that . What we used to call "welsh plugs" in the side of the block decades ago, now called "freeze plugs".There is one in the rear of the head, a really difficult position where there is a minimum of room between the back of the head and the firewall. So it became a head off, get a professional engine reconditioner to check for head damage to replace the iceplug. The "the coolant is above normal operating level, going to "limp home mode" and home was just 600 mtrs. Possibly failed, because of a combination of factors. after my servicing dealer went bust it fell to my wifes suburban workshop to provide more "time elapsed" services than km based. And seeing this they might have thought they were being helpful by doing just minor services. Not checking the strength of the coolant. I had an event causing a brain injury so was away from it for months in its early days. that's my excuse for it. Its been 100% since repair. Just another reason to keep the coolant strength at full strength. its made worse by the location. not easily accessible as it was back in 250cid XB models. And I think all the smarts took a bit longer to realise the coolant was above normal operating range. there was absolutely no steam like would have been the case in the "side of the block"welsh plugs"

Air conditioning not achieving or maintaining correct temperature . My Mk1 has had the outside air temp sensor, in passenger side rearview mirror replaced twice. The explanation I received. Its only by knowing the outside temp that the temp inside is maintained by mixing the cold air from the compressor with believed exterior air temperature. Its not the "fully loaded" climate control optioned version. But still seems to rely on that sensor. Not a really expensive fix, I think today the sensor $26 on Ebay, and if you're good friends with an auto electrician, who knows. it a really quick fix once you have the part. initially it seems like the system is out of refrigerant.

Gday mate, did you end up fixing the issue? Having the same thing with my manual AUII XR6 VCT sedan. Was fine, then did a brake upgrade and master cylinder replacement and now it’s doing the same issue as yours did. Cheers

There's a guy north of Adelaide that will get you heading in the right direction if you're up for a holiday 😉

About an hour north of Newcastle NSW

A datalog and tune file would be handy. Where are you based?

Hey hjrtrbo, I don’t know the compression ratio. Only got a dyno printout. Not happy with the tune. It previously had a high flowed 3582 and stock intake and was tuned by another person. It was a lot better tune than now with the 3584 and 4” intake.

Compression ratio?

Here’s a rundown on the BA and how it is now Built bottom end Manley Pistons Spool I Beam Conrods ACL Race Series Bearings Billet oil pump gears XSpurt 2000cc injectors Crow cams Heavy duty valve springs Pulsar 3584 turbo with ported exhaust housing and 4 inch intake Process West air box kit Process West battery relocation kit S/S braided turbo oil return line 4” dump heat wrapped Full X Force crossover dual 2.5 “ exhaust with high flow cats and twin tips Plazmaman 800 hp intercooler Plazmaman Surge Tank with Twin Pierburg 360 LPH Fuel Pumps Pirotta Performance Flex Fuel kit FPR 800 Fuel Reg Aeroflow Fuel Rail Walbro 460 In Tank Pump Custom built Mal Wood T56 6 speed manual Xtreme Twin Plate Clutch Hardy Spicer twin piece tailshaft Eaton TruTrack diff C.W.P 3.73 diff gears Upgraded centre bearing

2000cc is pretty big, not impossible to tune though if you can get them firing reliably at idle. 1500cc at 3 bar base pressure will do good. As for your power goal, what compression ratio? To high will be a dog on 98.

morning all, happy Sunday and Mother's day ↖️

your tuner won't tune with 2000cc... ok. get a new tuner, it sounds like... the new tuner should be able to tell you what they think is holding it back, but I'd take a guess that your fuel pressure regular or rail or injectors are the problem, maybe if you've got a restrictive cat? could realistically be anything...

Pic uploads work now @STAINLESS again plz . Anyway, I watched some YouTube vids, learned Autocad & bought a tig off marketplace. Still have front infill pannels, rear taillight pannel & drop sides to do, but they'll be a while down the road since we're about to settle on a house. Is about 300kg lighter than the steel tray I had, much more aerodynamic, economy & wind noise are well improved. Sent from my SM-S911B using Tapatalk

Hey folks, I have a BA with built bottom end, trutrak, flex fuel with twin Pierburg pumps , Pulsar 3584, 4” intake and dump, 6 speed manual and quite a lot more. It has plazzy 800 hp intercooler and X Force twin 2&1/2” exhaust. Would it be the intercooler and or exhaust holding it back? It’s got 2000cc injectors and my tuner said he won’t tune it with them. I have XS1500 injectors to put in. Currently makes 442 kw on E85 and I am not happy with the tune. It has detonation on pump 98 on boost. What’s the opinion on why it’s not making 600hp on pump 98. thanks Tim

morning all, happy Saturday ⬅️

seems a bit... no idea...

Just adding my experience in case it helps someone in the future. The ICC screen was dead and none of the buttons for climate etc would do anything. The 15 amp fuse was blown and the screen was fried. New fuse and repaired screen did the trick. For anyone in Adelaide, go to Athol Park wreckers.

I bought the old ute from an abusive ex owner, it seems to be in limp mode but there's no dash indicator. It starts up normal firing all cylinders smoothly then when it stabilizes it falls into a rough idle and limited power as if its running on 3 cylinders like the codes indicate. Although the fault being even numbered coils indicating to a pattern that could be beyond the coils themselves I changed them anyway and it made no difference. The transmission had a lot of metallic material in the oil when I drained it, though it selects gears and shifts smoothly. The vibration I originally attributed to the converter being buggered but since then I think it could just be because the 2,4,6 cylinders aren't firing. What components is it worth looking at that could be causing this issue? Could a damaged transmission or buggered torque converter be the case of this? Any help or insight on this would be helpful, thank you. I have codes 0352 Ignition coil B primary circuit malfunction 0354 Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit 0356 Ignition coil F primary/secondary circuit

morning all, happy Friday ↙️

wtf have you done with your profile pic @Puffwagon haha