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There's a guy north of Adelaide that will get you heading in the right direction if you're up for a holiday 😉

About an hour north of Newcastle NSW

A datalog and tune file would be handy. Where are you based?

Hey hjrtrbo, I don’t know the compression ratio. Only got a dyno printout. Not happy with the tune. It previously had a high flowed 3582 and stock intake and was tuned by another person. It was a lot better tune than now with the 3584 and 4” intake.

Compression ratio?

Here’s a rundown on the BA and how it is now Built bottom end Manley Pistons Spool I Beam Conrods ACL Race Series Bearings Billet oil pump gears XSpurt 2000cc injectors Crow cams Heavy duty valve springs Pulsar 3584 turbo with ported exhaust housing and 4 inch intake Process West air box kit Process West battery relocation kit S/S braided turbo oil return line 4” dump heat wrapped Full X Force crossover dual 2.5 “ exhaust with high flow cats and twin tips Plazmaman 800 hp intercooler Plazmaman Surge Tank with Twin Pierburg 360 LPH Fuel Pumps Pirotta Performance Flex Fuel kit FPR 800 Fuel Reg Aeroflow Fuel Rail Walbro 460 In Tank Pump Custom built Mal Wood T56 6 speed manual Xtreme Twin Plate Clutch Hardy Spicer twin piece tailshaft Eaton TruTrack diff C.W.P 3.73 diff gears Upgraded centre bearing

2000cc is pretty big, not impossible to tune though if you can get them firing reliably at idle. 1500cc at 3 bar base pressure will do good. As for your power goal, what compression ratio? To high will be a dog on 98.

morning all, happy Sunday and Mother's day ↖️

your tuner won't tune with 2000cc... ok. get a new tuner, it sounds like... the new tuner should be able to tell you what they think is holding it back, but I'd take a guess that your fuel pressure regular or rail or injectors are the problem, maybe if you've got a restrictive cat? could realistically be anything...

Pic uploads work now @STAINLESS again plz . Anyway, I watched some YouTube vids, learned Autocad & bought a tig off marketplace. Still have front infill pannels, rear taillight pannel & drop sides to do, but they'll be a while down the road since we're about to settle on a house. Is about 300kg lighter than the steel tray I had, much more aerodynamic, economy & wind noise are well improved. Sent from my SM-S911B using Tapatalk

Hey folks, I have a BA with built bottom end, trutrak, flex fuel with twin Pierburg pumps , Pulsar 3584, 4” intake and dump, 6 speed manual and quite a lot more. It has plazzy 800 hp intercooler and X Force twin 2&1/2” exhaust. Would it be the intercooler and or exhaust holding it back? It’s got 2000cc injectors and my tuner said he won’t tune it with them. I have XS1500 injectors to put in. Currently makes 442 kw on E85 and I am not happy with the tune. It has detonation on pump 98 on boost. What’s the opinion on why it’s not making 600hp on pump 98. thanks Tim

morning all, happy Saturday ⬅️

seems a bit... no idea...

Just adding my experience in case it helps someone in the future. The ICC screen was dead and none of the buttons for climate etc would do anything. The 15 amp fuse was blown and the screen was fried. New fuse and repaired screen did the trick. For anyone in Adelaide, go to Athol Park wreckers.

I bought the old ute from an abusive ex owner, it seems to be in limp mode but there's no dash indicator. It starts up normal firing all cylinders smoothly then when it stabilizes it falls into a rough idle and limited power as if its running on 3 cylinders like the codes indicate. Although the fault being even numbered coils indicating to a pattern that could be beyond the coils themselves I changed them anyway and it made no difference. The transmission had a lot of metallic material in the oil when I drained it, though it selects gears and shifts smoothly. The vibration I originally attributed to the converter being buggered but since then I think it could just be because the 2,4,6 cylinders aren't firing. What components is it worth looking at that could be causing this issue? Could a damaged transmission or buggered torque converter be the case of this? Any help or insight on this would be helpful, thank you. I have codes 0352 Ignition coil B primary circuit malfunction 0354 Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit 0356 Ignition coil F primary/secondary circuit

morning all, happy Friday ↙️

wtf have you done with your profile pic @Puffwagon haha

Indeed discussions less confrontational, which it was hardly confrontational. morning all, happy Thursday ⬇️

No, you wouldn't

haha well done on detailing my mechanic stuff... you could easily do such an analysis on everything I do mechanically with cars... I admit, I suck, and I'd be a apprentice, if I ever decided to do such a foolish thing I wouldn't have called all that arguing, I'd call that "discussing" haha. Also, I only stripped one, on the rear, which hardly even needs cracking

You literally turned up to my house after a 9 hour drive with pads metal on metal, rotor completely destroyed, telling me there was heaps of pad left, while your missus said you drove here like a maniac, even though she heard the brake noise for the past several hundred km.... and after staying up with you until midnight fixing it, you floor it only 20 seconds after a cold start into the test drive. The whole time you argued about every farken detail on how to fix it even though you have no farken idea what you're doing, which was evidenced by the 6 hours it took you to do a rotor and pad swap, all while stripping the bleed nipples due to once again, not listening to my advice about how to do it. Mechanical sympathy my arse. Dirt roads ain't a big deal you argumentative fark

fair dinkum, that was an awesome concert mosh pits for days my glasses copped it, but that's ok I won't be needing to go to the gym, either... intense circie pits

nice lookin' bits

I'll always avoid a dirt road if I can, in my lowered with 20's car haha, for obvious reasons... but yeah, I understand your point; maybe I'm a little too precious/mechanically-sympathetic about it...