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morning all, happy Friday... yep, still haven't had time to focus on the forum to fix it; damn paid work getting in my way haha...

morning all, happy Thursday... yes there are still issues as I didn't have time to ffocus on them yesterday, but hoping to have it resolved by today...

morning all, happy Wednesday (yes, there are "posting" issues, I'm trying to fix them)

Ba xr6t Been having an issue for a few weeks when randomly at idle car mite be idleing and all sudden for a split second missfired but at same time it revs up quickly and is all good ...this all happens within like 1-1.5 seconds. .other times when it does this it does same but besides revung up for a second it revs right up and missfired/stumbles etc till turn car off and on again . Mite do this a few times over say 4 days then comes good for a week or so and then does it again. When driving car it's fine...dosnet do it or miss etc only seems to be at idle Codes I get are related to excessive rpm ..and maximum speed reached codes Also I have tried a different throttle body and TPS. Which it came good for a few days after that. There is no intake leaks etc literally covered everything besides maybe coils? But surely it would do it while driving aswell bot just idleing? Also thinking possibly wireing issue to throttle body but again why only when idleing?

Thanku keth. Your life saver mate.

Hey bro jw I’m having the same problem and need help with sorting performance mode

Hello as the title fg ute standard 18” wheels and tyres. Also not lowered or anything. Sometimes must be when turning hard the tyres rub on the chassis. When I got the car, one tyre was all cut up from the spot welds. Thanks

Cheers for that woz! That link you provided will be a great help, I didn't even know it was possible to test the solenoids that way. I'm going to try and get a used zf6 hopefully this week as it seems a bit tricky to get just a torque converter as no one wants to part it from the box which is understandable. I'm pretty sure I can just chuck my old TCM in the new one and reset the learning tables in FORscan and it should hopefully all work. Going uphill the other day I did get some gentle shuddering so I'm leaning towards torque converter. At least when I go to swap the TCM I can test the solenoids with a multimeter then. I was quoted around $1500 in parts for the sonnax zip kit, new solenoids and a few other goodies but hopefully the valve body is still half alright as I don't really want to spend too much more on this car. Thanks again for the advice and link, I'll definitely keep y'all updated on how it goes

morning all, happy Tuesday ✝️

wouldn't change the oxygen sensor readings... but it could significantly shorten the life of a water-cooled turbo... but if there's no bearing play and the fins aren't able to touch the housing and the turbo takes a while to spin down after operation, it's probably OK.

Hi all. So I discovered that the water line to turbo was completely flogged on my ba xr6t ...nothing getting through Long story short it's all good now (new line) But .I'm in no way of knowing for how long it was this way. Jidgeing by how it was clogged I'm thinking it was like this for quite some time..as in allot more the. A year...maybe 2 or so Now turbo seems ok. But what is the likely outcome on this? Stuffed bearings? Oil seals? Also wondering...seeing turbo was getting really hot with no water cooled ....can it. Affect the oxygen sensor readings?

If you have forscan and a compatible obd cable, you can see what the torque convertor lockup solenoid is doing and the amount of slip the convertor has. A lot of the time there are no faults associated with a torque convertor that is surging. Worse case scenario you need to pull the box out and replace it, at least they're quite common these days. You could try replacing the EDS6 TCC solenoid if you feel like doing some shotgun troubleshooting. https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/308-zf6hp26-solenoid-identification

morning all, happy Monday ☯️

Yea I was worried It'd be the torque converter, as I said this is my first automatic car but with all the reading up I'm doing it seems to point that way. If it was a a solenoid causing the Torque converter to consistently lock on and off I would've most definitely have a fault code wouldn't I?

If you're certain you've filled the oil to the correct level using the proper procedure then it looks like you've been sold a zf with a fu<ked torque convertor.

Yea I definitely might have to give it a go if I can't troubleshoot it myself. I'd be happy to travel for a decent tuner too as long as I'm not doing further damage to any components

hmm, yeah, does seem a bit odd... not really doing anything crazy there, but obviously not correct... Does seem like an issue that could be covered/hidden by tune of the transmission... Try talking to a tuner in the area?

Here's a link of 3 videos I compiled (had to be over 1 minutes to not be a YouTube short) It is quite and odd one especially considering I'm not getting any codes. Most the auto transmission specialists in my area are booked out until mid August (sunshine coast) and I really don't want to spend thousands of dollars chasing problems that can't be pinpointed. I'm open to all suggestions, cheers guys

yeah, I've got no idea what could be wrong there...

Hello guys! An extremely long time lurker but never posted before. Long story short, I have myself a 2010 FG falcon that originally had the 5 speed auto. The 5 speed milkshaked so I saved all my pennies and bought a zf6 to put in it and used Hootons harnesses to avoid changing the entire body loom. She's all in and changed from P,R,N,D. After using FORscan and figuring out the PATs programming I got it started and she drives and changes through all the gears, Hooray!. My main issue now is, especially in the higher gears, on low throttle, the RPM's surge a lot. You can't feel it surging but you can definitely hear it and see the RPM's bobbing up and down. I've driven just over 1000kms (long drives all in a week) and the problem seems to just be getting worse. This issue usually only occurs when the RPMs are below 2000. I don't believe it's fuel, ignition or vacuum problem as it idles completely fine with no misfiring and on my long drives I achieved an avg fuel consumption of 7.7L/100km. When I put the foot flat it has plenty of torque and changes the gears no worries. It's as if the transmission is hunting, or surging. This is my first automatic vehicle and I'm already starting to hate it. I've seen similar threads/topics but no definite answers. I also believe my zf6 shifter is fkd because it doesn't go into "performance mode" and every time I open the drivers door it beeps at me and displays "transmission not in park" on the dash. However I believe that is a separate issue from the surging I'm getting. I'm going to install a new shifter hopefully on the weekend if I can find one and hope it fixes that issue. I'm also going to give the zf6 another drain and fill (2nd time) to see if that changes the behavior but I don't think it will. I've taken all sorts of drives with it and have no DTC's (fault codes) showing on FORscan. I've had a little play with logging the live data but to be honest I have zero clue what I'm looking for. This only happens when at cruising speed (gentle throttle) or when I'm trying to go up hill the surging gets worse, almost as if it hesitates to drop back a gear. I should also mention the shifts from 3rd-4th feel quite odd. I'm going to try and upload a video of it and try to link it here. I assume no codes probably means the solenoids are okay? I'm really hoping it's not the torque converter. Please feel free to ask many questions and if anyone has experience anything similar please let me know. I'm hoping to use this thread to diagnose, fix and actually report back to what the issue was and what fixed it. PS. I also want to thank you guys for helping me over the past decade with fixing the falcons with your awesome knowledge and experience, cheers.

morning all, happy Sunday ☸️

morning all, happy Saturday ✡️

Hey All, Sorry in advance if it’s a repost of an old question. Im in the process of designing custom tube chassis. Does anyone know, or can guess, how much a stripped chassis of a BA/BF would weigh? Or even any generation similar? Like just the chassis, no doors, no carpet, no dash, no engine etc I'm trying to workout how much my overall project might weigh compared to the normal ford falcons. Regards, paul

morning all, happy Friday 🕉️

Anything's possible with enough will, competence and money; cut off the flange and weld another one on, but then it's not really a high-mount, so you'd have to do a bunch of modifications to even make it high-mount... but nah, not a good idea; buy an aftermarket high-mount header setup if you're going to do it at all, imho.